What did you do to your mini today?
Made the successful trip to Massachusetts from Kansas with Barnaby on the uhaul trailer. No issues at all, very happy about that. Took barnaby out on the highway yesterday and I am starting to restore faith and trust back into my car. Considered trading him for a BMW 1 series but couldnt do it. Still love my MINI too much! Life is good!
This is the one I bought-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Made the successful trip to Massachusetts from Kansas with Barnaby on the uhaul trailer. No issues at all, very happy about that. Took barnaby out on the highway yesterday and I am starting to restore faith and trust back into my car. Considered trading him for a BMW 1 series but couldnt do it. Still love my MINI too much! Life is good!
But being in the summer, if there were any demons left after you exercised them from Barnaby, should they not have already made their presence known? I bet you are in the clear.
Glad to hear it! Dare I say it... I wonder if you should have already experienced a "relapse" if the cooling issue was still present.
But being in the summer, if there were any demons left after you exercised them from Barnaby, should they not have already made their presence known? I bet you are in the clear.
But being in the summer, if there were any demons left after you exercised them from Barnaby, should they not have already made their presence known? I bet you are in the clear.
Glad to hear it Steffen!
Picking up the final odds and ends for this weekend's job. Brake clean, engine degreaser, paper towels etc. I want to see if I can get the block, pan and transmission cleaned up some more.
Ready for Friday.
Also picked up another torque wrench so I have wrenches that handle up to 21 lbs/ft, up to 80 lbs/ft, up to 160 lbs/ft and up to 240 lbs/ft.
Picking up the final odds and ends for this weekend's job. Brake clean, engine degreaser, paper towels etc. I want to see if I can get the block, pan and transmission cleaned up some more.
Ready for Friday.
Also picked up another torque wrench so I have wrenches that handle up to 21 lbs/ft, up to 80 lbs/ft, up to 160 lbs/ft and up to 240 lbs/ft.
Oh, and I installed the aFe Pro Dry S panel filter in 10 minutes. I want to say I get better gas mileage but it's hard to be sure...
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Started to get him ready for the 1400 mile trailer ride across country. Then I will be sending him to a local shop on the east coast for a tune up, look at, and compression test. Does anyone have any recommendations in the South Coast MA, or RI area for a good shop or dealer?
If you're still looking for a good local shop, check out Roundel Motor Werks in Sandwich, on the Cape....might be a little out of your way, but Pat has done some great work on our Mini's.
-Steve
Productive day today...
- Replaced the leaking power steering lines. (not as bad as I thought)
- New fluid in P/S system. Bled the P/S system.
- Replaced the power steering fan with new unit
- Oil pan gasket and dip stick o-ring
- Oil change
- Transmission mount
- Thermostat, housing, upper and lower hoses
- Crankshaft position sensor
Im tired... punting on swapping out the passenger axle due to the driver side axle weeping now. Might as well knock them both out at the same time. Plan on doing the inner ball joints as well with the axles out.
Tomorrow includes putting everything back together and buttoning him out. Coolant fluid, power steering fluid and oil are all sitting in their respective systems... Letting it sit overnight and we will see if any leaks present themselves.
- Replaced the leaking power steering lines. (not as bad as I thought)
- New fluid in P/S system. Bled the P/S system.
- Replaced the power steering fan with new unit
- Oil pan gasket and dip stick o-ring
- Oil change
- Transmission mount
- Thermostat, housing, upper and lower hoses
- Crankshaft position sensor
Im tired... punting on swapping out the passenger axle due to the driver side axle weeping now. Might as well knock them both out at the same time. Plan on doing the inner ball joints as well with the axles out.
Tomorrow includes putting everything back together and buttoning him out. Coolant fluid, power steering fluid and oil are all sitting in their respective systems... Letting it sit overnight and we will see if any leaks present themselves.
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Productive day today...
- Replaced the leaking power steering lines. (not as bad as I thought)
- New fluid in P/S system. Bled the P/S system.
- Replaced the power steering fan with new unit
- Oil pan gasket and dip stick o-ring
- Oil change
- Transmission mount
- Thermostat, housing, upper and lower hoses
- Crankshaft position sensor
Im tired... punting on swapping out the passenger axle due to the driver side axle weeping now. Might as well knock them both out at the same time. Plan on doing the inner ball joints as well with the axles out.
Tomorrow includes putting everything back together and buttoning him out. Coolant fluid, power steering fluid and oil are all sitting in their respective systems... Letting it sit overnight and we will see if any leaks present themselves.
- Replaced the leaking power steering lines. (not as bad as I thought)
- New fluid in P/S system. Bled the P/S system.
- Replaced the power steering fan with new unit
- Oil pan gasket and dip stick o-ring
- Oil change
- Transmission mount
- Thermostat, housing, upper and lower hoses
- Crankshaft position sensor
Im tired... punting on swapping out the passenger axle due to the driver side axle weeping now. Might as well knock them both out at the same time. Plan on doing the inner ball joints as well with the axles out.
Tomorrow includes putting everything back together and buttoning him out. Coolant fluid, power steering fluid and oil are all sitting in their respective systems... Letting it sit overnight and we will see if any leaks present themselves.
All I did was bolt on new hoops
Last edited by -=gRaY rAvEn=-; 08-08-2016 at 01:10 AM. Reason: Adj img sz
Faced down armrest. Won.
Today I sat glaring at my armrest, and Bentley manual, because, like everyone ever, I don't have special tool 00 9 323 (trim panel wedge, nonexistent).
I busted the arm rest on my R50 last time I had to do this, and my new S is so perfect I can't bear the idea of screwing it up. Since my body panel kit -- the 5 piece plastic pry bars everyone has -- isn't even close to what tool 00 9 323 must be, I was running out of ideas.
Possibly a plastic kid's ruler would be skinny enough to slide in there and release the wedge holding the arm rest on, but anything thin enough to get in there is likely to break. You need some thing metal, almost, for this. But metal would scratch the door.
Unless you had a steel yardstick and you de-burred it with a file, and wrapped the end in electrical tape so it can't scratch anything. Turns out, that works.
After that it was easy to replace the door brake, so it won't swing shut and crush my foot like happened last time.
Also put in a left side parcel shelf. Nobody explains how the old panel is hooked in the center. The two outside hinges curve one way, the middle one curves the other. That's how it attaches at the bottom. It's easy once you know that.
I busted the arm rest on my R50 last time I had to do this, and my new S is so perfect I can't bear the idea of screwing it up. Since my body panel kit -- the 5 piece plastic pry bars everyone has -- isn't even close to what tool 00 9 323 must be, I was running out of ideas.
Possibly a plastic kid's ruler would be skinny enough to slide in there and release the wedge holding the arm rest on, but anything thin enough to get in there is likely to break. You need some thing metal, almost, for this. But metal would scratch the door.
Unless you had a steel yardstick and you de-burred it with a file, and wrapped the end in electrical tape so it can't scratch anything. Turns out, that works.
After that it was easy to replace the door brake, so it won't swing shut and crush my foot like happened last time.
Also put in a left side parcel shelf. Nobody explains how the old panel is hooked in the center. The two outside hinges curve one way, the middle one curves the other. That's how it attaches at the bottom. It's easy once you know that.
Last edited by Dennis Bratland; 08-07-2016 at 10:47 AM.
I had to do surgery on the Copper S by replacing the air duct to the blower manifold and a few vacuum tubes but in order to do the air duct the front end had to be opened up which required the removal of the front bumper etc. in order to get at the blower manifold to replace the o-ring/gasket as well as rebolt the duct in place.The removal of all associated parts---bypass valve ---throttle body etc is necessary in order to replace the air duct----a lot work for one bolt and one o-ring/gasket.
Actually did yesterday but installed OEM JCW rear muffler (version with integrated dual chromed slash tips - P/N 18307646678). Rather than crawl underneath with jack stands supporting, I used hydraulic floor jacks on both rear jacking points in combo with machined aluminum jacking adapters then slipped ramps underneath the raised rear tires. All went well (butt-joined using BMW 55mm exhaust pipe clamp). Only a short drive around town so far but know I'm gonna like the subtle change. No need for video since there are several linked here and on youtube...
Replaced Power Window Motor R53 2003 Mini Cooper Driver Power Window Issue
Replaced the power window motor.
Window wouldn't go down on occasion. Only way to get it to respond was to strike it with the palm of my hand (just below the door handle) where the motor is located. After striking window would work 5 or 6 times but would fail again when trying to get it down.
This tells me something is stuck or that the motor has weakened and can no longer engage the gear after the gear has settled.
Removed door panel and always have to remember to start at the reflector behind the door lock push button. Careful not to force anything.
Detached the window from the window regulator. Used a 5mm hex to remove two odd looking fasteners (look like gears . lol). They screw out- Removed the glass carefully and set it aside in the garage.?
Next had to remove the inside door handle. 3 Phillips head screws.
Then take out the window regulator motor. Remembering to remove the cross cable (runs along the top rail) from the two holding clips - used 10mm for the top regulator arms (located under plastic plugs) then used 10mm for the 2 bottom rails on the bottom side of the door.
Once I had the rails out I hit everything I could with a lubricant and "painted' the rails that the runners run on with grease.
Unscrewed the motor and was careful to keep the cable spool together as I removed the motor from the cable assembly. Sprayed the friction points of the spool with a lubricant. (I just want everything to slip smoothly as to not over stress the motor again)
After installing the motor and installing the regulator rails back in by re affixing the 10mm bolts in the top and bottom as well as the screws in the motor, I noticed that the window went down when I pushed the switch up and vice versa. So I had to remove the rails again and reverse the motor. The motor is encased in metal. It's attached with 4 screws. Removed the screws, carefully pulled out slightly as to not allow everything to fall apart (there are two loose pieces that can be replaced but it's cumbersome), and twisted so the motor is now 180 degrees of the position it was. Replaced the screws and re-attached the rails.
Slid window back into the channel and re-attached using the gear looking brackets. Tightened but allowed for some movement so that I could adjust the window so that it closed properly on top and rear. Once perfect tightened.
Put door handle back on, re-attached door panel and voila - it works! The aftermarket motor is a bit louder than factory. I hope I don't have to do this again. It was an easy job but I needed to be engaged the entire time. Took about an hour.
Last edited by -=gRaY rAvEn=-; 08-08-2016 at 01:11 AM.