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General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
Had a metallic whining sound in the area of the water pump. Replaced the friction wheel and accessory belt, much quieter now. My Mini has 118k miles on it.
I replaced the accessory belt once before, not sure how many miles were on it. Had a few cracks on the belt, would have gotten quite a few more miles out of it, but now it's not a concern.
Found quite a bit of rubber build up on the water pump drive wheel, cleaned that up, everything seems good. Pelican Parts has a great write up on how to do the job!
Replaced the Front O2 sensor with the Bosch screw together one. Works fine.
Replaced the Serp belt tensioner and Idler pulley
Replaced the AC compressor (blew from over charge)
Put it all back together after pressure washing to get a code for Crank sensor.
Know what I will be doing tonight. Taking it back apart to get @ the sensor to clean connection and replace the sensor. Probably was the leak anyhow... :( Oh well better than being @ work...
Replaced the Front O2 sensor with the Bosch screw together one. Works fine.
Replaced the Serp belt tensioner and Idler pulley
Replaced the AC compressor (blew from over charge)
Put it all back together after pressure washing to get a code for Crank sensor.
Know what I will be doing tonight. Taking it back apart to get @ the sensor to clean connection and replace the sensor. Probably was the leak anyhow... :( Oh well better than being @ work...
Argh. Not cool. But it makes me glad I just yanked and replaced my crankshaft sensor.
Stoked, hit 1,100 miles after replacing the radiator, hoses, thermostat, housing, trans mount, crank sensor, oil pan gasket, dip stick o-ring, power steering lines/fluid and passenger side axle and lower ball joint. Everything is behaving like it should...
I will admit, it is a bit odd looking under him and NOT seeing any drips of oil (oil pan gasket) or P/S fluid. All fluid levels (oil, coolant, P/S) are holding steady.
Coming up soon: driver side axle, driver side inner ball joint, valve cover gasket, plug wires, rear taillight bulbs along with all front end bulbs and side markers less the HID headlight bulbs.
Today, after a bit or research and deliberation, I made a modification under the hood of my R53.
The plastic wall that is in front of the brake cylinder has been removed, allowing the under hood heat to vent out in from of the windshield. It only took about 10 min, I unbolted the far passenger side and made a cut at the bend. I'll post pictures tomorrow... The difference is definite! Immediately improved acceleration and even on the thermostat a visibly lower temp. Wish I had a scanner to see the exact difference, but I was impressed nonethwless
Got my fender flare in the mail from WayMotorWorks and dropped it off at the autobody shop to get painted. Found out liquid yellow is one of the harder colors to color match.
Lots done to my Mini today including my very first mod. I replaced the coolant overflow tank with a metal one, flushed the coolant, replaced the air intake breather hose, replaced the rer tail lights, new pass side rear side marker, new hood emblem, and gave it a good washing.
Last edited by Tim H (WarDoc); 09-16-2016 at 07:07 PM.
Reason: add pictures
Today, after a bit or research and deliberation, I made a modification under the hood of my R53.
The plastic wall that is in front of the brake cylinder has been removed, allowing the under hood heat to vent out in from of the windshield. It only took about 10 min, I unbolted the far passenger side and made a cut at the bend. I'll post pictures tomorrow... The difference is definite! Immediately improved acceleration and even on the thermostat a visibly lower temp. Wish I had a scanner to see the exact difference, but I was impressed nonethwless
You really don't want to vent the heat that way/direction. Those ABS modules have to be protected from heat sources and reason for those partitions/cowl vents. Replacement cost of those modules is in the $2,000.00 range.
You really don't want to vent the heat that way/direction. Those ABS modules have to be protected from heat sources and reason for those partitions/cowl vents. Replacement cost of those modules is in the $2,000.00 range.
Friend of mine cut some vents in from a Hyundai ( I think ) Tiberon.....They were painted same color of bonnet, were not big and blended in well with shape of the car..
Like this....
They were nicely spaced out on the MINI bonnet...functional.
Last edited by -=gRaY rAvEn=-; 09-19-2016 at 09:50 AM.
Lots done to my Mini today including my very first mod. I replaced the coolant overflow tank with a metal one, flushed the coolant, replaced the air intake breather hose, replaced the rer tail lights, new pass side rear side marker, new hood emblem, and gave it a good washing.
Where did you find the metal expansion tank? I am looking for one myself if I can find a decently priced one. My current plastic one is leaking at the seam.
As I'm sure many could not help noticing, I've been making do with just two auxiliary lights. Nothing but headlights, high beams, fog lights and a mere two driving lights. Barely getting by, like some kind of animal, basically.
So at last today my second pair of stainless Wipac lights arrived via the Royal Mail, packed in a wine box like they do. I got them on there right away. That's four lights, as nature intended, each cranking out 55 throbbing watts of pure halogen H3 illumination. It's the kind of lighting that lets you see things at a given distance.
The other cool thing was, after bolting up my Milltek system over the weekend and listening to two days of tinpan rattling and low throbbing and weird popping and barking, I was able to lift it up and catalog five (5) places where the exhaust was rubbing or banging against something.
The resonator pipe was hitting the center bolts on my AutoXCooper K-brace, so I inverted the two bolts, since the capscrew head is lower than the nut end, and moved the two rear bolt spacers of the brace from the outside to the inside, dropping it down about 1/8" lower, and away from the exhaust. The resonator pipe was also laying down against the center exhaust support bracket. The front of the rubber mounts there hook into the bracket and can't easily be moved, but the back has two screws, so I added two 1/8" spacers to lift up that end. It' still close, but no longer making contact with the metal. I think this was the major source of vibration that was shaking the whole car. At the back, I lowered the spacer nuts I was using on the eight studs that the rear hangers are on. I didn't want to use trial-and-error spacers here. I just ran a nut on, added a lock washer, the bracket, and another nut. Then I could turn the upper nut to whatever height I desired, then lock it in place with the lower one. The fourth source of rattling was one I already knew about: the inner right hanger is broken. That's already on order so that will be fixed in due course.
The fifth one I haven't figure out yet. The whole rear of the exhaust can move side to side inside the hangers far enough for the two inner hanger pins to contact the battery box, or for the bent elbows of the pipes to bang into the rear control arms, especially the left control arm, it hits the protruding hardware for the headlight height sensor.
Even so, fixing those three of the five issues made a world of difference. It's still a loud exhaust that barks and roars when you rev up, but at low rpm it's now smooth and quiet.
I've read a few of the threads where DIY exhaust installs were plagued by lots of rattles and vibration, but I couldn't find any of them giving a rundown of the things you can do to fix it, other than adjusting the clamp in the center. So there's a few things you can do, if you've got the rattles.
Another Barnaby issue arose today... Was cruising on the highway around 75-80 mph for about 1hr and got off my normal exit and my car lost all power. Check engine light came on and the dash lit up. I threw it in N and coasted into a parking lot. Plugged my OBII reader in and no CEL but minor o2, EVAP, and CAT sensors were lit up red. I had it towed back to my house. And tried to start up, had a cold start and then died again. Now it wont start at all. HELP!!!
Where did you find the metal expansion tank? I am looking for one myself if I can find a decently priced one. My current plastic one is leaking at the seam.
Looks like a version of the forge one, but we just added Canton Racing ones and they have a matching power steering tank. Don't forget there cap also for it listed below.
09-12-2016, 05:13 PM
They were nicely spaced out on the MINI bonnet...functional.
