If you noticed my signature, I have a hollow 25mm RSB paired with a 27mm solid FSB, along with Bilstein B8 shocks on my 2012 MINI. That combination took me a year to come to after having issues with a 20mm RSB alone on an earlier Cooper S, and then sorting through all of the conventional wisdom posted all over the place, seeing how the top Pros set up a MINI and what the MINI designers themselves did for all of the available suspension designs. The end result is that this car is my very fun and quick track car. Ride is a bit stiff, though. From my experience, for a street MINI, a 19mm RSB, paired with IE Fixed camberplates and Bilstein B6/8 shocks will transform the car into a great, fun, DD car. Just my 2 cents...

Have fun and motor on.

And back to our regular programming.

 

"What did you do to your mini today?"

Traded it in for an RS5, but still have the wife's CM that we adore.

 

That's the exact combo I have on my daily driven R53 and it is indeed an excellent recipe!

I don't know why the yellow Bilsteins don't get more love because people usually recommend Koni, but I love the way Bilsteins ride, respond, and feel.

By far though the most transformative mod was the IE fixed plates, positively blew my mind what a profound impact they had, well worth the small investment.

That said, went ahead and bought some Fortune Auto coilovers (still uninstalled) so I can dial in a bit more negative camber, and ideally even though it's just a street car I'd love to try and get it corner weighted --- but I don't have any friends with scales and would have to pay for it which in my case would likely be performed by Gran Turismo East as they are longtime legends in the Atlanta area for providing quality work, but they ain't exactly cheap either!

So that got me to thinking that perhaps I should invest in a set of scales myself --- the top dog brands are quite pricey though and it'd be a limited use tool in my case so I was looking at less expensive alternatives and came across these Proform units:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-67650

Not too bad of a price, but still wonder if I should stretch $4-500 more and just get the known precision quality of Longacre or Intercomp.

Any advice or experience you might offer?

Thanks!

 

I have no experience with weight balance. However, for the street, I would think measuring from the wheel center to the fender lip should get you really close, especially if you put your weight in sand bags in the driver’s seat. For ride height, lower by a max of an inch in order to not get into roll center issues. As for setting the shocks, start with the rears on full soft and the front full hard. To adjust for handling, first stiffen the rears a few clicks, then soften the front a few clicks until you get the handling you want. Then adjust all 4 at the same time to get the ride you want.

 

Way off topic - but on that note:
Ha ha ha - Yep, I think you and I are from the same generation. I was in my 20's in the 80s'... (It's painfully apparent that I still "live" there).
If you met me, you would never guess that I was a huge fan of 80's Punk, PostPunk/New Wave. Decades later now here in the ATL; You wouldn't /couldn't imagine the looks of disbelief I get when I'm out wearing my, Ramones, Clash, Plasmatics, Devo or Oingo Boingo T-shirts.
I've never seen "Suburbia". I'll have to give it a watch it 2nite.

That said - Moving on....

I kinda have to agree in some respects to Bilsteins vs Koni (Yellows). Initially I was dead set on putting Bilstein B6's on my R53. At the time they were either ridiculously overpriced or NA.
Through reading various websites, I was also under the impression that the B8's would not work or advisable for a R53 .
I ended up buying a set of B4's for the rear and a few months later (under great reviews) Koni Yellow adjustable for the front. Impart due to the fact that I originally had lowering springs on the front (only). I am currently back to stock height now. The Koni's are just fine. Although I really don't feel that much of a difference in ride in either +or- adjustment. I suppose I'm just use to driving sport cars and comfortable of how they generally feel close to the ground.
I haven't felt the need (or know enough) to invest in fixed or adjustable camber plates. Down the road, I may give adding them some serious thought.
As always - Good discussion. Good insight....I tend to learn something everytime I visit.

 

@Here2Go Since recent posts in this thread have touched on music, I've been meaning to ask you what DEVO was right about.

I grew up outside Philadelphia. There's a suburb called Devon. For years, the exit sign from the highway said "Devo", the 'n' being painted out. I think that PennDOT fixed it a time or two but before long it was back to "Devo". They gave up eventually. Might still say "Devo" for all I know -- it's been a long time since I was back there.

 

Corner weighting is not the same as ride height adjustment and can only be done with scales. Then the springs can be preloaded to balance the car and adjust/even out the handling. Once the corner balancing is done, then you fine tune to ride height with lower adjustment sleeve on the coilover (if so equipped), and then dial in the damping.

 

@dmath - Although there are alot of interpretations regarding DEVO and the notion "DEVO was right" written/floating around on the internet.... Probably not best suited for discussion here on NAM.

Perhaps this catchy little video might:

 

Haven't posted an update in some time, too busy with my other hatchback

But I've been still working on my clubby, wilwood big brakes, miltek catback exhaust, forge blowoff valve, and JMTC ICI pipe


And yes still street parking

 

Yep,
and I've been flip-flopping on the idea due to the monetary cost involved --- would such fine tuning even be noticeable on a street car?

Someone in another thread this morning posted a link to a euro used car site and I was looking and saw an advert where they included a pic of their corner weights:






Made me look around a bit more,
saw this on FB:




Finally,
a yootoob video:

 

I'm no expert by any means with corner weighting, but my gut feeling you'd only feel differences when driving near the limit on the track.

 

By a stroke of luck, I found an R52 in Hot Orange in the local junkyard today - I grabbed the parking sensors and trunklid as color-matched spares for my daughter's R52S. I need some more tools to go back and get the fenders, and maybe the doors

 

Wow! That is indeed a VERY nice find!!
"Junkyards are like a box of chocolate....."
Hope you're able to score the remaining panels.

Always loved that color paint. I was almost persuaded by the allure of hot metallic orange in trading in my '04 DSM R53 for an '06 HO R52 while at the dealer (circa 2010).
Had my 04 since "birth" ....I didn't really want to give up my "first born" = ...as well as a car payment.

 

I'd be interested in the front reinforcements between the unibody rails and the strut towers if they are there and you be willing to pull them and ship them!

 

i'll grab them when I cut the damaged hood open and have a look sometime next week!

 

Another trip back to the local junkyard today and scored both fenders for <$30 total

I think I'm going to drag my daughter out of bed early on Saturday and go get the doors.
The top is in decent shape, too, though it is a dark blue and ours is black. I looked up some of the threads on removing the top, and thanks to ECS for sending/posting the link to the manual details for removing the top.
But, does anyone have BTDT experience on salvaging the whole top and mechanism? I would have to think it would be easier to remove it all in one shot. I get that the "sunroof motor" needs to be removed to get the top started to move backwards, and the "check" or "relief" valve has to be cracked open 1 1/2 turns at the hydraulic pump in the trunk to allow the top to fold and compress. But, can I get lucky and there are 5 or 6 bolts on each side behind the trim panels that, once removed, let the whole top and mechanism lift off the body?

 

I had the opportunity to replace this busted coolant hose after it decided to spew coolant all over the engine. This is the return from the turbo and the reservoir to the thermostat housing.

 

Damn?!?
Nary a dent or a major scratch! (??)
Again, Nice score...
I think you are very smart (and lucky), to have heeded the opportunity to salvage those parts while you can. Especially for the R52 and R53.
I love going to salvage yards. I never really need anything for my R53...but never know what I might come across without it even entering my mind.
However, I actually stopped going to the yards in the last few months. Sure there are often a few R50 and R56's, but RARELY have I've come across an R53...At least not within the last 10 months. So, I now only go when I get a notice if an R53 has hit the yard.

I suspect that us older, - a-hem; "more seasoned generation" are snagging them up/rescuing them from some of those (entitled ?) "teenage brats" that haven't yet learned to appreciate and take care of what they have/had.
Ok...Maybe that last part was a little harsh....but - That maybe why I haven't seen many junkers lately?

Congratulations - On another, very nice score indeed!!!

 

After many long awaited years - I finally ordered a ... It arrived in 2short days! This evening I used it for the first time and successfully pulled/fixed 3door dings from the driver side of my Mini.




One early morning @sun rise. Skies were blue!

I should preface by saying - The images below don't do the actual damage and repairs justice.
Try as I might I could not get decent images under the lighting conditions.


The dings proved nearly impossible to capture with my camera...
Although, as small as they were - I assure you they were certainly noticeable from 3feet away...






The image above may say nothing to prove the results without providing comparison.
However for me this was almost a life changing accomplishment after so many years seeing these dings and dents finally gone!

While I'm certainly not trying to bolster sales for the described product; I must emphatically say that -This thing is awesome!.
Having done custom fabrication and "forms" of body work near my entire life; I would have never imagined anything but good ole fashion skillful labor could ever fix those damn little eyesores so quickly and easily with no visible "side effects".

 

Ricky got his new Weathertech floor mats and boot liner installed

 

Got the doors off of the R52 in the local junkyard yesterday, but couldn't get the complete top (canvass/frame/motor) off of it. Details of what was tried is here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4628738

If you have insight into what last step I'm missing to remove it, please let me know! I'd still like to try and save that convertible top frame and motors before the car goes to the great junkyard in the sky. Thanks!

 

Installed wheel locks, mainly because I need to use an Amazon gift card. And why not? I just need to remember to put the key in my car before driving off tomorrow

 

Yeah - Wheel locks are worth it.
My dog and I were on a 1,400mi journey to the SW. When we reached the SW we stopped at a Motel 6 (not in the best part of town) for the night.
3:30AM; I was woken up by the sound of my Mini chirping loudly. As I peered out the window, half asleep, I see my Mini flashing, leaning up on one side being held up by a concrete block.
When I ran out to investigate -There was no one to be seen except for a couple of lugnuts laying on the ground beside the left rear wheel. I guess some thief really liked my Mini S-lites...Although, just not enough to get caught...(or worse...)
Next morning after putting the car back on the ground; I set a course on my GPS for the closest Import auto parts store..... for a set of wheel locks
I keep my wheel key stashed where only I know where it is.

Motor happily on!

 

The start button was installed in Ricky today. It spent 10 years on the front of Lucy, and held up in outstanding fashion,. I do not even think go badges offers this 3D badge any longer. I cleaned it and used a plastic ceramic coating shine it up. Used the rest of the ceramic wipe up on my garbage and recycling can lids, they look sharp.

it is not where I would really like it, that will require drilling a hole in one of the fake grill ventilation openings. I did not realize until I went to put it on that most of the upper openings are fake. That will be a project for when it’s cooler and less humid in the garage.

 

Did you get that brass T fitting unit we have?