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General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
Well my plan for today is to install a CAI. I've only had my MINI for 2 monthsand this will be the first thing I have done other get used to driving it. I have had MG's, both B and A in the past but I will tell you this car is fabulous so far.
After reading everyone's posts I guess I have a LONG list of things to add. Just takes $$
My first car was a MGA.... I learned how to wrench on that car... Had to! My ‘72 Fiat 124 Spyder was a huge step up from the A in every way including reliability. And the MINIs are all huge step up from the Fiat. Good to hear you are enjoying yours...
DFH1 (11-22-2022),dmath (11-22-2022),ECSTuning (11-22-2022),F56-JCDub (11-22-2022),Here2Go (11-22-2022),isk (11-22-2022) and 1 others liked this post. (Show less...)
Thanks for that info & reminder @ECSTuning .
I had pulled my rear hatch seal 2wo years ago when I re-covered my headliner = no rust.
Just pulled the seal again after reading your comment = no rust.
I replaced my tail lights 6years ago, modded the fogs 2wo years ago and (confident) they still showed no sign of rust, (FLA car).
No water intrusion in the back hatch and battery compartment is dry, solid and rust free = lucky! (I've read horror stories).
Btw: Purchased the rear tail lights from ECS. Held up really well over the years compared the original factory which hazed within 6 years.Tail lights from ECS still look brand new
A complete fluke -
My driver seat height adjuster failed about 3years ago. Barring extensive repair or new/used seat - I searched in vain trying to find a fix that worked. I tried for years to fix it and lever would just flop..
It's been bugging me ever since.
'just went out to my Mini, braving the cold 45° weather (I don't do well below 80°), yanked upwards on the back of the seat and cranked the height adjustment lever.
A little 'pop', a slight #creak# and then the sound of *ratcheting* ! - WTH??? - The height adjustment now works flawlessly!
Total fluke.
@Here2Go Great work on the rally light switch. Your attention to detail and quality work never fail to inspire me. Plus I usually learn a lot from your posts.
Thanks for that info & reminder @ECSTuning .
I had pulled my rear hatch seal 2wo years ago when I re-covered my headliner = no rust.
Just pulled the seal again after reading your comment = no rust.
I replaced my tail lights 6years ago, modded the fogs 2wo years ago and (confident) they still showed no sign of rust, (FLA car).
No water intrusion in the back hatch and battery compartment is dry, solid and rust free = lucky! (I've read horror stories).
Btw: Purchased the rear tail lights from ECS. Held up really well over the years compared the original factory which hazed within 6 years.Tail lights from ECS still look brand new
Welcome, glad to help and things held up. When people check the sill they sometimes miss the rust on the back when it can be all tackled at one in a paint job or body shop/garage.
@Here2Go Great work on the rally light switch. Your attention to detail and quality work never fail to inspire me. Plus I usually learn a lot from your posts.
Thanks @dmath . That was very kind of you to say.
Likewise - I am and have been intrigued by reading the amount of work and tremendous insight I've gleaned from reading your restoration thread.
While I'm pretty mechanically able, I don't always have much to contribute in the way of Mini "mechanics". I prefer or enjoy more "creative engineering" lately, since I've been fortunate to not have any major issues with my car.
Your thread has always given me good cause to re-evaluate every nook and cranny under the hood. You've accomplished more than I ever could have imagined!
@Here2Go Now it's my turn to say thanks for the kind words. I couldn't have completed half of what I've done so far without the help and support of the NAM gang (and ModMini).
@Here2Go Now it's my turn to say thanks for the kind words. I couldn't have completed half of what I've done so far without the help and support of the NAM gang (and ModMini).
Today I replaced the chrome side scuttles. #KillAllChrome The only thing left to de-chrome is the belt line and COOPER S rear logo. Hugo II's new black Aero side scuttles & smoked light.
What is there to do after all the world cup shenanigans, US football and food coma on this day? While everyone's lounging around, well , I asked Adrian to tweak my tune He asked if it's a holiday here in USA? I said yes , it's Thanksgiving. He replied back, he saw the president talking to turkeys For foreigners, it must have been weird.
Today I replaced the chrome side scuttles. #KillAllChrome The only thing left to de-chrome is the belt line and COOPER S rear logo.
Hugo II's new black Aero side scuttles & smoked light.
I gotta admit - Those new blacked out scuttles look awesome on your Coupe!
While I'm not necessarily a fan of "black out"; The color combo/contrast to your pepper white(?) is the exeption to my personal preference.
It's only a shame (to me), that your beltline is in such nice condition to be blacked - it is to be admired by some who aren't so fortunate.
Looks great, though!
I’ve had the following thread bookmarked for years, but never did the mod. Unfortunately, the pics are gone but the process is simple, if not tedious, and is described in the first post. I don’t know how flat the grilles are, but I was going to see if the back could be milled away with a router instead of using a belt sander.
I haven’t re-read the thread so I’m not sure if this is where I also read that once opened, all you’ll see is the silver heat shielding right behind the bumper and would need to be cut or bent to allow more air to flow.
I’ve had the following thread bookmarked for years, but never did the mod. Unfortunately, the pics are gone but the process is simple, if not tedious, and is described in the first post. I don’t know how flat the grilles are, but I was going to see if the back could be milled away with a router instead of using a belt sander.
I haven’t re-read the thread so I’m not sure if this is where I also read that once opened, all you’ll see is the silver heat shielding right behind the bumper and would need to be cut or bent to allow more air to flow.
Hey @RB-MINI thanks for the response and link.
The method described in the thread is similar to my approach but via soldering iron to punch a pilot hole in each "honeycomb" then go to town with a small rotary bit/drum sander on my Dremel.
Trim out/Clean up with an exacto to finish it up.
Sounds tedious - but hey...I enjoy this kind of meticulous stuff.
At least now I know it can and has been done before.
Might start on it tomorrow since my catch can delivery remains in USPS purgatory.
My first thought before milling the back away with a router was the similar to yours, but Dremeling with a flush cutting router bit after drilling an access hole. Unfortunately, I don’t think they make a flush cutting bit with a guide bearing that small.
Another idea was to remove the solid grille area leaving only the frame and mounting tabs, then grafting a section of the lower front grille in as a replacement. Also, opening the sides of the lower front grille was another thing mod to look into. I’ve got so many mods in progress or parts waiting to be installed that I’ve been thinking about starting a thread called “Mods you have sitting around or waiting for install”
I think @jcolletteiii did something along the line of what @RB-MINI suggest in the post above. Maybe he will chime in. If not, it should be in his thread. I would look but it's almost time to start putting pizzas in the oven.
My first thought before milling the back away with a router was the similar to yours, but Dremeling with a flush cutting router bit after drilling an access hole. Unfortunately, I don’t think they make a flush cutting bit with a guide bearing that small.
I can't say that I recall seeing one available either. Perhaps implementing an HO scale bearing on a Dremel router bit shaft? ...Unlikely, but I think I'll just have to reside to patience and care.
Originally Posted by RB-MINI
Another idea was to remove the solid grille area leaving only the frame and mounting tabs, then grafting a section of the lower front grille in as a replacement. Also, opening the sides of the lower front grille was another thing mod to look into.
.
Were you referring to the lower front bumper grille (front of the car)? My lower front bumper grille (in front of the condenser) is already "perforated"/open. I have 2wo, 2" mini high intensity spots mounted behind that front lower grille.
Originally Posted by RB-MINI
I’ve got so many mods in progress or parts waiting to be installed that I’ve been thinking about starting a thread called “Mods you have sitting around or waiting for install”
Now that is a thread I would definitely subscribe to!
Originally Posted by dmath
I think @jcolletteiii did something along the line of what @RB-MINI suggest in the post above. Maybe he will chime in. If not, it should be in his thread. I would look but it's almost time to start putting pizzas in the oven.
I think I now remember reading that post. IIRC the contributor replaced the OEM grilles with some form of mesh (?)
Notwithstanding: Just polished off a 14" pepperoni pie myself. MMMmmm...I'll be going for the Tums here, in a moment though.
Were you referring to the lower front bumper grille (front of the car)? My lower front bumper grille (in front of the condenser) is already "perforated"/open. I have 2wo, 2" mini high intensity spots mounted behind that front lower grille.
Part of the reply was referring to taking a section of open grille from an extra oem front grille, instead of using aftermarket, and grafting it to the back frame/tab section so all of the holes wouldn’t need to be opened up individually.
The other part was referring to also opening the non-perforated sections of the lower front grill. The first few inches with the tow hook and the last few on the drivers side are solid like the back grilles.
At first I got a bit dyslexic reading that part of your reply until I finally wrapped my brain around what you were referring to (hence my strikethrough edit).
I kinda like that idea. Certainly better than carving out every hole by hole. However, I've been dismayed by the absence of Minis in the salvage yard as of late. Not as many to cannibalize in the past few months.
When I installed my 2" spots behind the front lower grille; It did cross my mind to bore a hole in the solid corners and possibly run some ducts to drive air into the front brakes.
Other than running out of daylight - I can't recall if there was enough clearance behind those areas between the condenser (or other obstacles) to even be possible.
I'll have another look again.
I used mesh from a DIY grille website for the first round of my rear grilles and did them in silver. I have since pulled and re-done the grilles using the pre-made larger aero R53 grilles that *might* still be available from orranje in the UK. I attached the grilles from the back. I used the stick on zip-tie blocks, but I removed the stick on stuff and scuffed the plastic using 80 grit paper and the area on the bumper I bonded each tab to. I used a good quality 2 part plastic repair/bonding epoxy to epoxy each tab so that they would be slightly below the mesh insert and then - when it was all dry, just zip-tied the grilles to the new tabs. Pretty clean install, and the black mesh really allows you to see what is behind there.
11-22-2022, 09:38 AM
My ‘72 Fiat 124 Spyder was a huge step up from the A in every way including reliability. And the MINIs are all huge step up from the Fiat. Good to hear you are enjoying yours...
He asked if it's a holiday here in USA? I said yes , it's Thanksgiving. He replied back, he saw the president talking to turkeys 
