Installed new rear struts, strut mounts, bump stops, end links, brake hoses, and rotors today. Still waiting on the pads to come in so it's not fully buttoned up yet. I probably could stand to do the sway bar bushings and control arm bushings but those will come at a later date.

The struts were original 04/02 production date and were definitely shot. The bushing at the bottom had wallowed out a little, but the strut mounts and bump stops were surprisingly good looking. I can't measure the brake rotor thickness with the tools I have, but there was at least a 2mm lip around the edge so those were in need of replacement. Slowly making my way through all the deferred maintenance on this thing! Plan to drive it about 4k miles in May (and about 1500 miles as a Toad) so the next step is engine removal and all the front suspension and brakes.

 

Decided to take off work today since I have too many plans for the weekend and I finished up the front suspension and brakes. Got rid of the Coca Cola brake fluid. Next weekend: engine removal!

 

2wo days ago I received a notification that a '09 R56 just hit the local salvage lot. I've been after a good pair of R56 seats for a while. So I headed out early hoping to score.
Unfortunately - no dice. The interior had been nearly cannibalized (including the seats), before I even got there.

At an off chance - there was still a 04 R53 on the lot that I managed to pull some odds and ends from; weeks before. Surprisingly the car was still there.

Today - I was fortunate enough to acquire a much needed interior rear hatch panel in perfect/unmarred condition for my 04.


My original 19y/o, beaten, marred interior hatch panel.


Hard to believe. This is exactly how the salvage yard panel looked before and after I removed it. Nope - I hadn't even cleaned it yet.

Interior rear hatch panel from a salvage yard Mini = $12
Owning a near 19y/o car since new - I'm all about finding resources to preserve and renew everything possible without killing me financially. That means quite a few trips to the salvage yard hoping to score good and NLA parts.

 

Got her prepped for heart surgery tomorrow. Still need to remove the passenger side cv axle, unbolt the header, and remove the starter wires. Then I can disconnect all the mounts and get the engine outta there. I love how much room I have to work on this thing since it’s so short!

Definitely had a nasty leak via the crank position sensor o-ring, and the timing cover has a few leaks but I’ll get that all sorted.

Replacing all coolant hoses and reservoir, water pump, thermostat, all oil seals (except for the rear main…gonna wait until i need to replace the clutch for that), timing chain, guides, and tensioner, coil, wires, spark plugs, crank pulley with ATI super damper, belt tensioner, idler pulley, alternator, a/c compressor, a/c dryer, a/c expansion valve, cleaning the rest of the hvac with solvent, power steering hoses, steering tie rods, LCA bushings and ball joints, cleaning the PS pump and checking if it’s eligible for the recall, servicing the supercharger, a 15% pulley, and of course all the fluids associated with this job.

 

Put my new radiator support on a few weeks back, and finally got my wheels put on today. replaced my taillights, and also redone the headliner, first time ever actually doing that.

 

Just ordered some more parts today, fx400 clutch, flywheel, quaife LSD, Dominator cam/tune from RMW! Now the waiting game.

 

Got the engine and subframe out today. Total time from start to finish to remove the engine, including cleaning as I went and removing the accessories and supercharger before pulling: 5 hours. Not bad!

….now cleaning the subframe and ps pump, replacing the control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar bushings, and ps lines took me another 5 hours. Lol. That thing was nasty. Tomorrow I’ll get the subframe back in and then get to work on the engine.

I also confirmed the ps pump part number is eligible for the recall, so I’ll try and get that booked soon to get a nice fresh pump for free.

 

Today I finished up preforming a brake flush and clutch slave cylinder bleed on my R53.
Occasionally I've been having a difficult time getting the Mini into gear when the brake fluid heated up during a hard or long drive.
I suspected there was moisture in the hydraulic fluid.

I purchased all that was needed and was set to pressure bleed the hydraulic/brake system. So I'd thought....
At the last moment I almost forgot to check the condition of my brake fluid reservoir. Glad I did...

The hydraulic fluid tank is mounted directly under the upper cowl vent. Circled in red: you can see the evidence of damage that has been caused as a result.


Last changed - @78kmi (now @ 95k and counting) = Long over due!


This being a typical potential failure point on many of these reservoirs I've seen. Notice there is nylon mesh integrated into this plastic...

So I bought a new OEM reservoir.
Here's Uncle Rico to help make my point...




As an added measure; I stuck a strip of Gorilla tape over that right side inner corner/failure point on the new tank before installing.

5hrs later (inducing underbody cleaning), 2.5qts brake fluid; All went very well = system flushed, new crystal clear fluid, brakes are firm, clutch slave and gear shift now working as it should.
' So much better when the gears are once again taking the glide path instead of the path of resistance.

Addendum: As a bonus - I even managed to make time to do a quick, half-***, hub(s), wheel(s) cleaning and tire rotation.





Complete weekly carwash and detail tomorrow.

 

Previously in this thread/forum - There was some mention with regards to DIY vs Pro ($$) installed headliner.
I just happened to snap this pic during one of my recent commutes.



Not sure where I was following a thread on brake fluid change which pertained to the question as to how to remove the
reservoir screen to extract the old fluid.
Here's how I removed mine in less than 10sec without damage...


W/2wo small screwdrivers, flanking the sides - Gently push in and pry/lift up...

 

Well got my replacement engine in today for my second mini. An R52 I purchased 2 weeks ago. It had a piston drop on cylinder 1. Had 188k on motor. The replacement engine has 88k. Going to do all external seals. Along with timing chain. Plus will replace clutch as well.

 

Sweet!
Total envy.
Good luck with the swap and restore

 

I decided that it is time to pass my R52 Mini along to the next owner. It has been a great car since I bought it in 2017 but the time has come to let it go. My father had the spectrum of skin cancers and a convertible is not the best option for motoring fun.

I listed it on the forum with the hope that someone here will be ready to adopt it. I will hold off on listing it elsewhere for a while. My top priority is that it goes to someone who will appreciate it for what it is and not to buy it as just another used car. I realize the forum is not necessarily the best place to list a MINI since most of us here already have the MINI we want, but in my opinion, the members of the forum deserve the first chance to adopt it. At this point, I am only interested in selling it to someone who comes to see it (between Baltimore MD and Harrisburg PA). I don't want to ship it across the country to someone who didn't get to see exactly what they are buying. If it doesn't sell here, I will likely have it detailed, raise the price and try to sell it on the normal retail sites. I searched AutoTrader and a few other sites and found there are 7 R52 Ss with less than 45,000 miles with an average price of $15,600. I listed it here at $12,000 with the hope that it will be a good deal for both the buyer and seller. When it is relisted on AutoTrader, the price will likely be $15,000.

This forum was the first forum of any kind that I joined and it is by far the best one out there. I will miss being a part of the MINI family and the forum. While I have never had any serious issues with the MINI, the forum was a great place to resolve the issues I had. I posted that the dome light would come on while driving and received a quick response about the switch in the trunk that was not long enough to tell the car the trunk was closed. I was given the easy fix (tape something there so the switch did not have to reach so far) and the part number to get it fixed properly. I did both. I went with the tape solution first but did not want a work around on the MINI so I went to the dealership and bought the replacement switch.

I have avoided the urge to modify the MINI. I bent to the pressure to add strut braces but resisted the urge to make all of the modifications that so many others have done. I have priced out a few complete rebuild a few times over the years, thanks to the great vendors that support the forum. It had 13,500 miles on it when I bought it and now has 22,600 miles. With that mileage and the perfect mechanical condition, I decided to keep it stock.

If you know anyone interested in a low mileage R52 Cooper S with a manual transmission, let them know it is available (before I change my mind).

 

@miniCPA While I liked your post (= R52), I'm sorry to see you have to give up your Mini.
Your Cabrio is beautiful.
Best of luck!

BTW: You were the first member to welcome me to the forum with my first post.

 

Not today, but Saturday I got the Spud into the garage to change out the washer pump. Pulled the old one and found the strainer gromet was clogged with algae and crap, so the pump was probably still OK so I kept it as a spare. Rinsed out the tank, blew out the lines and refilled with washer fluid. I'll keep an eye on it.

 

Got our 2004 R50 with the CVT back from the Dealer for what I will say was a strange transmission issue. It was stuck in 1st gear. Yes, I know, no “gears” in a CVT. It was stuck in the lowest ratio, like it was being manually shifted in the Sport Mode. When it would get to just under red line it would “shift” to the next lowest ratio (2nd when being manually shifted). Dealer original diagnosis was a bad transmission. Hmmmm - the car has less than 67,000 miles on it and the transmission fluid has been changed twice. I suspected wires or the transmission ECU or a sensor, or controller. Really what do I know. On their advice I went for changing out the transmission. They have a salvage yard they deal with and found a replacement with only 55,000 miles and a 3 year warranty.

Upon the point of removing the transmission, they in fact found damaged wires going to the transmission. Rodents? They said that the wires were hidden from view before they got to the point of removing the transmission, so they didn’t seem the damage on their inspection. Wires repaired and back on the road again. Many $$$ out of the pocket, but happy to get the car back.

This is a sweet car. Rides wonderfully and is generally a really nice car. It has sentimental value to us, so it was worth the fix. And the dealer has always been fair with me.

Motor on!

 

I'd say close to a month ago I broke down and purchased a Cravenspeed automatic shift **** assembly. Got it installed and love it. It's definitely different feeling than the OE shifter.
Had a tire that was cupping on me last fall so I swapped to my 17“ vision 426's for the stock 16" wheels through the winter. Purchased two new tires for the replacements.

So last week I splurged and picked up a new JB4 unit with the Bluetooth module to replace my Racechip GTS that I've run the last year.Nothing wrong with it. But who doesn't love something new.

And just to spend more money I replaced the AFE stage 2 pro Cai w/lid for the AFE Momentum GT cold air intake. It definitely looks a lot more clean than it did.

Almost forgot a rear muffler delete purchased from the forum here. Definitely a loud cold start now but low drone and lots music make it ok. Ha ha ha

I​'ll throw the AFE Cai on the market place. Debating on selling the Racechip GTS but got no interest when I posted the Racechip R. So may not even bother trying to sell this one.



Roxanne adapts well to the new piggyback.

 

As silly as it may seem -
This morning while enroute to to the grocery store, (15mi rndtrp), I hit at major pothole causing my glovebox lid to abruptly drop open. In aggravation I aggressively slammed the glovebox shut ultimately breaking the glovebox light switch. After grocery shopping, I decided to deveate from my drive "home" and take an extended 25mi journey to the other "grocery store" - also known as the salvage yard. I was lucky enough to score a nice glovebox light from an '09 R56. The salvage yard was kind enough to waive the charge.

Found and preformed a fix for a weak glovebox latch and Installed the light.
After an unintended 65mi drive and fix...
My day is complete.

Having preformed that highly labor intensive glovebox fix under my belt; I now feel confident in dropping my subframe for a complete front end refresh in a couple of weeks.

 

Well still working on my new to me r52. Got the old engine out. Separated the transmission from the engine. Striped everything I need from it. Then started adding it to the new donor engine.
Since the engine is out. I’m replacing the inner an outer ball joints. Plus added poly bushings to the lower control arms.
Also installed my left tail light. Much better than the old ones.

 

After a few months of owning and modifying the car I FINALLY got around to buffing it out and doing a minor paint correction.. it came out VERY nice.. You'd never guess the car has 170k..
Car is running and driving great it also pulls pretty well for its mods , it's only making 19psi.. current mods are :
ported gen2 supercharger with 19% pulley , ported intake Manifold , ported intercooler horns , ported boost tube , catless ebay headers with ported flange and Milian exhaust , 65mm throttlebody , custom 3in intake and coldair box , grs motorsport intercooler and upgraded intercooler boots , 380cc jcw injectors , 10.2mm plug wires and 1x step colder ngk-R sparkplugs , gen2 ecu with GP tune , throttle controller , lightweight 1x piece flywheel and stage 1x clutch , short throw shifter , 15x8 lightweight rims and 225 traction t/a tires , convertible support braces , drilled and slotted rotors and ss brakelines and I've done some interior and exterior modifications as you see also..

 

Not today, but recently changed my all four brake pads and rotors, then rotated my tires.
I made a DIY too: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hange-diy.html

 

​​Installed an Alta spring for the Diverter Valve, a Forge Blow Off Adapter, and a Turbo to intercooler pipe this past Saturday.

 

I’ve had 4 MINI’s starting with an R53 in 2003 that was a new MCS that I highly modified. That car started this life thread.

Today I had my 4th MINI - a 2021 JCW Icon with 3 pedals that is fun beyond words wrapped with PPF across the whole front end.

Sadly, my current life situation has me putting about 2500 mostly highway miles on it per month. Gladly, all in sport mode.

I hope to keep this car really nice for a long time. The car probably has more life left in it than I do. I’ll keep you posted.

 

that's such a beautiful car...the color combo is my favorite and I think this is actually ny FAVORITE model mini , even more than the r53 even actually.

 

I lost my mind
Today I spent half a day hitting a few salvage yards that had recently dropped a few 1st Gens on their lots.
Total round trip 82mi / 9 hr day driving + pulling.

First off: I am preparing to do a subframe drop and rebuild on my 04 R53 in a couple of weeks.
I've had my new Powerflex LCAB sitting in my new parts box for a while. Today I decided to R&R some brackets from a salvage Mini so I could
pre-press the new bushings and have them ready to swap when I drop the sub.


The salvage yard brackets cleaned up nicely after a good scrubbing in my parts cleaner (also known as my kitchen sink)...
After cutting out the old bushings with a saws-all - my improvised 2ton jack, block of wood, a piece of pipe and pressed up under our apt complex dumpster, worked rather nicely.
CAB ready for install!


Just a few small but worthy bits I scored from a Justa '05 R52...

Other awesome items I scored include, but not shown, auto dimming mirror, locking glovebox latch (gotta have a hey made), Chrono pack gauges and Center dash Nav (gave them to a friend).

 

Particularly for a glovebox latch, you may be able to remove the lock cylinder and remove/rearrange the keying to fit your existing key. I haven't done it on the Mini, but I did something like that to add a second keyed storage box behind the driver's seat of my 350Z.