Oil Change ?
#1
Oil Change ?
The local (over an hour away) mini dealer wants over $100 for an oil change.
I am very handy with a wrench and do all my work on my motorcycle.
My question is, removing the old oil can be done two ways it seems.
1. Put car on ramp and remove bolt at oil pan
2. Use a suction device that takes the oil out through the fill tube
Not sure where to get ramps that this little car will go up, not to mention I would be doing it myself and lining up can be fun.
I would get something like this to remove oil from the top.
http://www.amazon.com/LiquiVac-Liqui...5046093&sr=8-1
What are your thoughts?
I am very handy with a wrench and do all my work on my motorcycle.
My question is, removing the old oil can be done two ways it seems.
1. Put car on ramp and remove bolt at oil pan
2. Use a suction device that takes the oil out through the fill tube
Not sure where to get ramps that this little car will go up, not to mention I would be doing it myself and lining up can be fun.
I would get something like this to remove oil from the top.
http://www.amazon.com/LiquiVac-Liqui...5046093&sr=8-1
What are your thoughts?
#2
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I've never done the topside method. But I do have Rhino Ramps, and they work fine with this car. I actually have the heavy duty ones (12,000lb, I think) that are a half inch taller, and it still works fine. The rhino ramps have a long, not so steep ramp up, so they work with low cars. My Jetta was even worse because of the overhang. The ramps and the topsider are roughly the same price. You are going to get more use out of the ramps than you realize, so that is money better spent. Anyway, the filter is the "tough" part of a Cooper (first gen, at least) oil change. Emptying the sump is easy. I vote for the ramps. I got mine from Autozone with a coupon for $50 something (12,000lb are more expensive, but the extra height is worth it).
Edit - I just checked your link, and the ramps are quite a bit cheaper. Don't go for anything less than Rhino, in my opinion. The knockoffs aren't that much cheaper, and I've read some bad things, especially about the two piece ones.
Edit - I just checked your link, and the ramps are quite a bit cheaper. Don't go for anything less than Rhino, in my opinion. The knockoffs aren't that much cheaper, and I've read some bad things, especially about the two piece ones.
#4
Definitely get yourself a set of Rhino Ramps - they will serve you well since you are a diy'er and can do your own maintenance. I have a lift and still use my Rhino's to do oil changes on my MINI becuase it's so quick and easy with the ramps. Well worth the money - I actually have two sets that I used to use as a poor man's lift before buying my 4 poster. I used them to hold the car up on all 4 corners to do work underneath.
#5
I do not find a need for ramps. Usually drive up on a couple of wood blocks and drain oil. Drain plug is at the back edge of the pan - T 45 or 8mm hex as I remember. An ordinary chepo drain pan from the discount store fits under. Filter is from the top,under the bonnet, and a piece of cake. I thought it was going to be a mess but was not! drop in 4.5-5 qts. of good synthetic, and put ($30 oil + $10 filter=$40) $100-$40=$60 bucks in your pocket! Plus save the time, expense, and aggravation of going to the dealer. Finally, go wash your hands and have a well deserved beer.
#7
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#9
Well here is one vote for the suction method. Think mine is called Liquivac Top-Side system. I was prepared to pull the plug but decided to use the pump as I have had success with it on my ATV and garden tractors.
I think the entire drain took about 5 minutes. Took me twice as long to get that damn oil canister to thread properly. My first time at it! Hopefully, next time will be easier.
I poured the used oil back into the 5 litre oil container used for the new fill. When the oil left in the filter is accounted for I would say that it drained the pan extremely well.
Very clean method, no ramps needed, no dirty oil trays to clean and can be used on all engines. Its a good idea to warm up the engine first to get a quick drain but I do that using either method.
I think the entire drain took about 5 minutes. Took me twice as long to get that damn oil canister to thread properly. My first time at it! Hopefully, next time will be easier.
I poured the used oil back into the 5 litre oil container used for the new fill. When the oil left in the filter is accounted for I would say that it drained the pan extremely well.
Very clean method, no ramps needed, no dirty oil trays to clean and can be used on all engines. Its a good idea to warm up the engine first to get a quick drain but I do that using either method.
#10
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I did that for years. It works fine. But with the 12,000lb rhinos, I can scoot under there on my dogbone style creeper for other tasks / inspections. I use them quite a bit, and when the wheels don't need to come off, they are safer than jackstands, as well as easier.
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Don't feel bad. I've done dozens of oil changes on canister filter equipped cars. I've had two MGBs, two big six BMWs, and a VW TDI (closest in design to the MINI filter). I thought I was the canister expert, but my R50 humbled me twice.
#13
I bought some Rhino Ramps and used this tutorial for changing my oil and it was the first time I ever changed oil in my own car.
Here's the tutorial: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-pictures.html
Here's the tutorial: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-pictures.html
#14
Rhino's rock........ I use them on my 3/4 ton truck too. Great for engine bay work to get low cars up to an ergonomic heigth. Remember half the oil change happens on the topside. If I did the sucker method I would still use ramps.
Although I did change the oil and filter myself at 5 months and 5,000 miles..... Since ours will average under 10,000 miles a year (the car it replaced averaged 6,000 a year).......
I plan to start doing a 6 month oil only change - then have the dealer do the full meal deal pre-paid aka "free" oil change at 12 months. I will continue that when I have to pay at the service, rather than built into the vehicle purchase price for the "free" future services.
That way I don't have to mess with that funky oil filter which certainly is only filtering better at 6 months and can do 12 months easy.
Although I did change the oil and filter myself at 5 months and 5,000 miles..... Since ours will average under 10,000 miles a year (the car it replaced averaged 6,000 a year).......
I plan to start doing a 6 month oil only change - then have the dealer do the full meal deal pre-paid aka "free" oil change at 12 months. I will continue that when I have to pay at the service, rather than built into the vehicle purchase price for the "free" future services.
That way I don't have to mess with that funky oil filter which certainly is only filtering better at 6 months and can do 12 months easy.
Last edited by MCS Fever; 04-22-2012 at 01:35 PM.
#15
whats the easiest way to remove the filter from an '06?
I cant get the filter housing off but i found this one here...
http://www.minicarparts.net/Parts/W136.cfm
whats ur best tip and where do u get ur filters from?
I cant get the filter housing off but i found this one here...
http://www.minicarparts.net/Parts/W136.cfm
whats ur best tip and where do u get ur filters from?
#16
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