I am in the process of getting ready for my first oil change attempt. I have done some research and am still a little confused on the process so not to damage the side skirts. I know where the jack stands need to go but what I am trying to find is the best location for the jack? I cant use the jack location for the jack because that is the same location for the stands.

Can you tell me if this location is correct? Is there a better location to jack the car up in order to get the jack stands under the jack points?

Thanks

 

I personally use a 2x4 that's about 3 feet long and slide it under the skirt until it hits that black lip there. I than jack that 2x4 up and place the jack stands in their respective spots.

 

^ +1

 

There's another official jacking point on the subframe beneath the engine. It looks like a black girder if you look under the car. If you jack there you can get a stand under the front jacking point.

If you want to get all four wheels off, you can jack the front jacking point and get a stand under the rear jacking point. Then you can jack under the engine (as above) and get a stand under the front jacking point.

 

Are you talking about the black lip down the center to the right of the green arrow? If I am reading this right you are putting the 2x4 along the plastic of the skirt? That seems like it would crack the skirt? Or are you saying put the 2x4 to the left of that lip so the wood is not on the plastic?

 

Can you see this location in the picture? Do you access from the front of the car? This one seems to be my best bet.

If I were to jack from the rear jacking points would I be able to slide jack stands under the front?

 

This might be what you are talking about?

 

The wood is to the right of the lip, directly against it. To date it has not cracked mine and I have had it lifted quite a few times.

 

If you are wanting to jack the car up on 4 jack stands, then the 2x4 is a good method. If you are just trying to get the front up, then the photo you reference is correct. The green arrow is pointing to a reinforced underbody area that is meant for using with jacks and lifts. I have lifted my clubman on the front side of that reinforced plate and placed my jack stands underneath the jack points and have been just fine.

-Z

 

That's what I'm talking about. That's the diagram from the TIS. As near as I can tell the jacking point is as shown in the picture below, I aim for that bump.

I can't see it on your original picture. I access it from the side of the car, I slide the jack in just behind the wheel, and the jack handle goes between the wheel and the arch to have enough space.

I've never tried jacking up the rear jacking point. If you jack up from the front (side #2) jacking point both wheels leave the ground so you can get a stand under the rear point. Once I've got that one in place, I use the inside (#1) jacking point to get a stand under the front #2 jacking point. If you want 4 wheels off, repeat for the other side.

 

My solution...just buy a bigger jack.....jack from the back til you hit the sky and then slide the front jack stand in :D

 

for oil changes I use a set of Rhino Ramps.

 

I went the Jack Stand route as well and ended up getting Rhino Ramps for oil changes. They are WAY easier for when you have quick jobs like an oil change.

That being said, for more involved work I use 4 jack stands and follow the ModMini approach to jacking the car up. His video on this process is below.

 

I do oil changes top side. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-...tor-46149.html

 

I use the ModMini approach, and did so even BEFORE I saw it. Now that I am lowered, it is more difficult, but I have still not killed my pinch-welds. Getting a MINI on an actual 2-post lift is more difficult than ModMini's approach, as the wheelbase is often too short, and getting all 4 lift arms aligned on the pinch-welds can be difficult, if not impossible. I have to line my MINI up perfectly, and now that I am lowered 1.4 inches, I have to use a floor jack just to get the lift arms under the pinch-welds. It's actually easier without a lift, unless you need the full access walk-under "benefit" of a true lift.