lowering gp coilovers to the max
#2
The rears are way harder than the fronts...just make sure the car is in the air.
#3
I tried to get mine lowered and was pretty emphatically told, by a very trusted shop, that it should not be done without alignment and four corner 'scaling' done... they actually wouldn't do it for me because they weren't setup for the 4 corner scaling... recommended getting done at a race shop. Anyone have any insight on this?
#4
However, I disagree the fronts are not done the same way as the rear on the GP, and this could confuse a novice.
On the GP the fronts and rears are different, in the front has 2 rings and the rear has only 1. The front is like most coilovers I have ever seen with a larger upper ring and smaller lower locking ring. The rears only have one ring.
To lower the front, jack the car up, take the wheel off. Use the spanners one on each ring. Hold the upper larger ring in place and rotate the lower ring so it goes down the thread. You can measure how far you lower it by either looking at the gap to the top ring, or to be more accurate count the number of rotations or notches. Then screw the top ring down. You can usually do this by manually rotating the whole spring and ring as one unit rather than using the spanner. Once you have lowered both rings down the thread the desired amount you then lock them. To do this attach the spanners and rotate the bottom ring upwards whilst simultaneously turning the upper ring down so they lock together.
This should take you all of 2 minutes once you have the wheel off.
Then repeat for the other side. To make sure the car remains even, lower the other side the exact same distance, or number of turns.
For the rear there is no bottom ring. You rotate the top ring down the thread. However, this is a ***** as the whole thread tends to rotate with the ring, so you get nowhere Also it is very tight to fit the spanner in there due to control arms, brake lines etc
#7
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#10
The trick to it is bending the handle on the wrench up 90 degrees about 3 inches up the handle. This allows you to actually get the wrench in there to lower/tighten the locking rings.
I mounted my new wheels and lowered the car in a 1/2 hour. Its painfully simple.
On that note. Why the hell do they include adjustable coilovers if they only have an inch of adjustment. I can barely tell Its lowered....
I mounted my new wheels and lowered the car in a 1/2 hour. Its painfully simple.
On that note. Why the hell do they include adjustable coilovers if they only have an inch of adjustment. I can barely tell Its lowered....
#11
The trick to it is bending the handle on the wrench up 90 degrees about 3 inches up the handle. This allows you to actually get the wrench in there to lower/tighten the locking rings.
I mounted my new wheels and lowered the car in a 1/2 hour. Its painfully simple.
On that note. Why the hell do they include adjustable coilovers if they only have an inch of adjustment. I can barely tell Its lowered....
I mounted my new wheels and lowered the car in a 1/2 hour. Its painfully simple.
On that note. Why the hell do they include adjustable coilovers if they only have an inch of adjustment. I can barely tell Its lowered....
What are the specs on those wheels, and size/brand of tire??
#12
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09-10-2015 01:04 PM