Slightly o/t but is it OK to bring used synthetic motor oil to the recycling center to be mixed in with used petroleum based oils?

 

the local auto parts store that takes used motor oil didn't seem to care.

 

What do ya'll think of this oil: Elf Solaris SLX 5W30

ACEA A3/B4
API SM/CF
BMW LL04

Can't find much info on Elf products via Google. Wondering if anyone's used this or any other Elf motor oil in their R56.

Edit:
Mmm. This link takes a while but it shows the full line: http://www.lubadmin.com//Restitution...4&Parametre1=2

 

Where would you get Elf Solaris in the USA? I don't recall seeing it locally (California). I've seen the name on F1 tracks, etc., but not in the USA. Are they starting to bring it over here?

 

Good question. The only reason I brought it up is because a local mechanic (in Orange County, CA) uses it. Where does he get it? Dunno.

 

Thanks for the write-up and photos - took me a while to figure out which drain plug to pull... Your comment about lifetime oil helped

How the buggery blazes are you supposed to read that dipstick????!!!

I put 4 1/2 qts and it didn't seem to make much difference - now I'm wondering if I shouldn't use my mityvac to take out a 1/2 qt to be safe...

 

Reading dipstick; pull it out and drip a drop on a hood latch and then wipe clean,
fold a small square of clean paper in half and insert and withdraw dipstick,
laying it in paper fold. A squeeze of the fold will show an accurate level.

(Each 'thread' of the spiral winding between ferrules is equivalent to about 2½ fluid ounces.)

I just did my first oil change and on refill, calibrated my dipstick, the lower ferrule indicated 3 quart level
and 4.5 Quarts came a little below top ferrule and I added another 4½ ounces to bring it to the top ferrule.

My drain (@ 1254 miles) was a full 4.5 Quarts and Oil Filter did not spill a drop, had added no oil since new,
but there was a distinct gasoline smell in the oil.

I intend no oil analysis, but heated a sample to 550c (1020f) and saw no 'flash', BTW that oil will absorb no water.

I ran four quarts through a coffee filter (very small amount of tiny 'metal-flecks') and
will probably use it in lawn mower as it was pretty healthy looking oil,
also took old filter apart and it was quite clean with just a little 'metallic' dust seen (non-ferrous).

My drain plug was 8mm hex, not T-50 and the painted copper crush ring came off with finger pressure.

I was able to use my old steel ramps by adding ¾" boards to track area, I wanted to look underneath,
but with a low drain pan, no lift of car would be needed.

Oil filter canister; if you buy a 27mm or 1 1/16 Socket, get the short one, I got a 'Deep Socket' and had to move Coolant tank
(one 8mm self-tap and ease lower part back 1/2" and raise out of slots) on my justaCooper,
it is said that the 'S' models need coolant tank moved in any case.

Recommend a Torque Wrench (I had a $24.95 Sears Craftsman) as that 22# (18.5# filter)
seemed much tighter than I would have done without it.

 

These guys have Elf - not sure if it's the grade you need but there's Solaris in their product line...

http://www.polepositionusa.com/

 

Used your tip for the dipstick - I was skeptical at first but it works. Did you have to go to PSA Tech school for that??

I put in about 4 2/3 qts all told. I didn't have a 27mm socket (who does normally) but I did have a 26 which I was able to bodge on there so that it wouldn't slip. I'll procure the 27 for my next change.

Mine also had the 8mm hex plug. I didn't do this but IIRC for a crush washer like the one supplied you should tighten until it's crushed and then 1/2 turn more. I just gave it the old hand tighten to about 25 ft/lbs probably.

 

Another way to read the dipstick is to lay it on a paper towel and roll it so you can see the stain it leaves. Keep the dipstick lined up with where it was so you can compare the stain to the high and low levels on the dipstick.

The drain plug should be 22 ft-lbs., and the filter 18.5 ft-lbs.

 

Just-a-shadetree w/garage (so it could drain all night) and not too bright at that.

Next time (after the three year MINI supplied LOF's),
I will note the exact turn needed following contact and then ditch the Torque Tool for both plug and canister on subsequent LOF jobs.

I also ended up using 4 + 2/3 Quarts by OC'ing on that dipstick and I know better than that.

With an aircraft, you always calibrate your dipstick to the oil put in and normally operate at least one quart low,
as excess is blown out for extra corrosion prevention on your belly.

Also, with MINI front wheels up eight inches (plus a 'drain' pitch in garage floor) the dipstick is going to read different than when car is level.

Hoping others can learn from my oversight confessions.

 

Good point. I usually put in 4 qts. Then lower the car off the jackstands and run it for long enough to fill the oil filter. Wait ten min. or more for it to all drain back down into the sump. Then measure it and top it up to just under the high mark on the dipstick.

 

I just pulled that extra 4½ ounces back out and dipstick reads as it did up on ramps "just under"
(or nearly two threads) *below high mark* with the recommended 4.5 Quarts.

So I guess the ramp-slope made no difference in dipstick accuracy.

I will likely drive much less than 3,000 miles before the 'Annual' MINI Service will come due in seven more months.

Glad we're not in Europe, where the calandar limit is two years
and no free changes either.

My Tach reminder is down to 14,000 because of a lot of short drives,
but the Due Date is shown as March 2010 or two years from production.
__________________________________________________ __________________________

*I would bet that when oil is at operating temperature, it will read exactly on the high mark ferrule of dipstick.*

On my eight quart aircraft sumps, the cold reading is one quart below the hot reading
and the dipsticks are marked accordingly.

 

Great thread Z3bum and everyone who as contributed! I am ready for my first oil change, about 1,300 miles. Waiting on filters & socket from MiniMania.com. Was(am) undecided on the oil to use. I bought 5 qts. Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance. However, I have gone to the Mobil 1 website and used their application guide. They are recommending Mobil 1 0W-40, which they say is the European Car Formula. I think I will try and return and replace with this, any thoughts?

 

^^^^^

Personally, I would. I use the mobil 1 0w-40 because it meets the A3/B3 rating. That is way more important than being a little wider in the weight range (though someone told me that the mobil 1 0w-40 is actually as thick as the mini castrol). I know I do feel safer with it for here in florida with the hot summer. It also had BMW LL01
I would stay away from the extended performance because it is only a A1/B1 and those are the important numbers. They deal with the sheer strength and the viscosity at operating temps and all the stuff you want to have for your MINI, especially if you drive spirited

 

Since my next oil change will be done at end of first year by MINI Dealer, I preferred to use the exact same brand as I know that they will use.

Downtown MINI in Orlando charged me $6.20 per quart for the MINI SAE 5W-30 oil.

After my three year plan is finished, if I change brands, I will do a quick succession double oil/filter change to 'flush' former 'brand' from system.

 

pilotart, thanks for your reply. I would do the same but dealer is over one hour away. Also, the Mobil 1 that I bought is $7.49 per quart. So you appear to have a good deal there. However, I don't really want a two hour round trip ride just to pick-up some oil!

 

Yes, I can understand that as I am over two hour drive from nearest MINI Dealer,
but I was lucky to have a flight that placed me within 2 miles of Downtown MINI.

My alternate plan had been to visit the local BMW Dealer, they should use the same oil, just labeled 'BMW'.

Most important to see on the label is "ACEA A3/B3" and it also says "Meets API Service SL/CF".

The MINI Label says it is Distributed by "BMW of North America" and is "Made in USA with foreign and domestic components",
no mention of Castrol.

 

Could very well be Castrol, though. I've noticed that when car companies re-brand things, they're reluctant to disclose the company where the source materials came from.

I've found the Mini recommended Castrol at my local Autozone store for about $6.25/quart, regular price. Amazing that the dealer matches the retail store price.

 

The "Mini Recommends Castrol" label is stamped right into the flange near my dipstick on my MCS.

Walmart sells Mobil 1, all grades, for $5.99 per quart. I think the 5 quart bottles are $23.49. Castrol 5W30 is $22.00 for the 5 quart bottle. I am not recommending Walmart per say so do not flame me on this. Just a price comparison.

Some european manufacturers such as Porsche recommend Mobile 1, 0W40.

For hot running cars with turbos etc, I tend to use 5W40 from Redline for perceived better engine protection. Has anyone else tried Redline? It is a little pricey at $9.99 per quart. Does impact gas mileage a little.

 

I get 5qt jug Castrol from Walmart and pour it into Mobil 1 5qt jug and pour it into the engine. Mobil 1 jug is just superior.

 

Since I run an old 911 on the track I have become a little bit of an oil nut. From everything I have researched both on this site and on Bob"s the oil guy site there are three oils I would put in my Mini. In order of preference;

1) German Castrol 0W-30, what I am currently running between factory changes. i wil run a test on it after 5,000 miles to see how the numbers look.
2) Mobil 1 0W-40, another A3/B3 Euro oil and the factory Porsche fill.
3) Mini branded 5W-30.

Not that anything major will happen to your car with standard 5W-30 Mobil 1, but given the heat of our turbos, I feel better with the above oils.

rickdm

 

I just hit 800 miles and checked the oil.
Still clean as a whistle. I plan on checking again at the magic 1,200 mark and if it still looks good I will go for a change at 5,000. Just can't feel comfortable going with the 15,000 mile warranty change.
Since "Castrol" is plastered over everything sticking with it sounds the safe bet. Winston is not a racer (most of the time)

 

PLS HELP ME!!!! i just had my very first engine oil service at 10900 miles and according to report paper they gave me they performed additional services like:

set oil filter element
5w30 oil mini
microfilter/activated carbon

my question is: does this additional services require access to/opening bolster under the steering wheel?

because evidently they took something out(parts) under the steering wheel!!!! i just noticed it today!!! my service was last saturday!!!

yes the service is free as it is still under warranty i have an '06 model bought last year('07). yes they replaced front and back wipers and have ordered side mirror screws coz they are rusted... all at no charge!!! but it is coz they took out parts under the steering wheel of my MINI!!!!

pls... i know engine oil service only requires opening the hood!!! not under the steering wheel of my MINI!!!! but they might say the additional services require opening bolster under the steering wheel(which i highly doubt) so i ask your expertise. because if those additional services does not require opening bolster under the steering wheel. they are in big trouble.

PLS... ENLIGHTEN ME. before i call the dealer and ask them why they opened the bolster under the steering wheel of my car in the first place!!! and obviously took something out!!!!!!!!!!!!!

could someone kindly also post a picture of bolster under the steering wheel so i can compare what parts they took out?!! what exactly are the parts to be found when you open bolster under the steering wheel? i have a base cooper. does all MINI models(s,base, etc) have the same parts under the steering wheel?

any idea why they took it out(whatever that is)?!! im very scared and disappointed and angry. why do they have to do that?




the yellow arrow points to the obvious missing part i noticed!! what is that??

 

Considering the small amount of "old" oil that's left in the engine after you do an oil/filter change, I would think a double-change would not be needed. At most there would be only a few ounces of old oil. I wouldn't worry about it.