How To Maintenance :: Cooper S Oil Change (with pics!)
#376
If you were required to use the MINI branded oil to keep the warranty intact they would have to provide that oil for free.
Like has been said, as long as it meets the spec it's fine. Heck even if you used an oil that didn't meet spec I doubt they'd ever be able to tell. That is unless your engine when kablamo & blew holes in itself.
As far as the dealer only being able to change the oil, well that's just a hoot...
#377
I couldn't agree with you more!
MINI/BMW has a vested interest in having only the dealer do routine maintenance, and they have a marketing relationship with Castrol, hence the Castrol / MINI oil recommendations.
I have no problem using a high quality full synthetic oil with the correct weight and American (API) service rating. If you want to go 15,000-20,000 miles between oil changes (also a MINI recommendation!) then by all means use only MINI oil!
#378
If MINI High Performance Synthetic Oil is not available, you can add small quantities of another synthetic oil in between oil changes. Only use oils with the API SH specification or higher.
Anyway, this says you can use SH (or SM) in small quantities between changes. It doesn't say you can use it for full oil changes.
MINIUSA has posted a list of acceptable oils, all of which meet ACEA A3 specs.
I do agree that having the dealer do all the oil changes couldn't be required, but you probably have to have them do the ones they provide "free" during the warranty service. Or, you would need proof that the proper service was done, if you had a warranty issue.
#379
Read it carefully. It says:
This is from the 2007 manual. Seems that newer versions have changed it to SM.
Anyway, this says you can use SH (or SM) in small quantities between changes. It doesn't say you can use it for full oil changes.
MINIUSA has posted a list of acceptable oils, all of which meet ACEA A3 specs.
I do agree that having the dealer do all the oil changes couldn't be required, but you probably have to have them do the ones they provide "free" during the warranty service. Or, you would need proof that the proper service was done, if you had a warranty issue.
This is from the 2007 manual. Seems that newer versions have changed it to SM.
Anyway, this says you can use SH (or SM) in small quantities between changes. It doesn't say you can use it for full oil changes.
MINIUSA has posted a list of acceptable oils, all of which meet ACEA A3 specs.
I do agree that having the dealer do all the oil changes couldn't be required, but you probably have to have them do the ones they provide "free" during the warranty service. Or, you would need proof that the proper service was done, if you had a warranty issue.
You can use any oil as long as it meets the specs Mini has provided. Those specs are a API SM spec and SAE 0w-40, 0w-30, 5w-40 and 5w-30. These oils can be used for driving at all outside temps. The use on Mini brand oil is only a suggestion. If Mini said you can only use Mini brand oil then by law they would have to provide that oil to us free of charge.
This is straight from the Mini Owners Lounge on the website site... like I stated in my post above all you need is a SM rated oil in any of the viscosity grades Mini has in the owners manual.
Here is what Mini says:
We endorse the use of any synthetic oil that meets the API service requirements set forth by the engineers. To verify, just look in the owner’s manual for the API ratings and then check the oil that you intend to use. You will also find an approved list of synthetic oils on MINIUSA.COM in the Owners’ Lounge under ‘MY MINI’. As for the flux capacitor, we are still working out the kinks as our test dummies go back in time before plastic was invented and as you can imagine, the results were devastating to them.
#381
Robin, I really appreciate all your posts I have read here but I believe you are misunderstanding this oil brand thing. Yes, I will take advantage of my free dealer service for the 3 years or 36000 miles.
You can use any oil as long as it meets the specs Mini has provided. Those specs are a API SM spec and SAE 0w-40, 0w-30, 5w-40 and 5w-30. These oils can be used for driving at all outside temps. The use on Mini brand oil is only a suggestion. If Mini said you can only use Mini brand oil then by law they would have to provide that oil to us free of charge.
This is straight from the Mini Owners Lounge on the website site... like I stated in my post above all you need is a SM rated oil in any of the viscosity grades Mini has in the owners manual.
Here is what Mini says:
We endorse the use of any synthetic oil that meets the API service requirements set forth by the engineers. To verify, just look in the owner’s manual for the API ratings and then check the oil that you intend to use. You will also find an approved list of synthetic oils on MINIUSA.COM in the Owners’ Lounge under ‘MY MINI’. As for the flux capacitor, we are still working out the kinks as our test dummies go back in time before plastic was invented and as you can imagine, the results were devastating to them.
You can use any oil as long as it meets the specs Mini has provided. Those specs are a API SM spec and SAE 0w-40, 0w-30, 5w-40 and 5w-30. These oils can be used for driving at all outside temps. The use on Mini brand oil is only a suggestion. If Mini said you can only use Mini brand oil then by law they would have to provide that oil to us free of charge.
This is straight from the Mini Owners Lounge on the website site... like I stated in my post above all you need is a SM rated oil in any of the viscosity grades Mini has in the owners manual.
Here is what Mini says:
We endorse the use of any synthetic oil that meets the API service requirements set forth by the engineers. To verify, just look in the owner’s manual for the API ratings and then check the oil that you intend to use. You will also find an approved list of synthetic oils on MINIUSA.COM in the Owners’ Lounge under ‘MY MINI’. As for the flux capacitor, we are still working out the kinks as our test dummies go back in time before plastic was invented and as you can imagine, the results were devastating to them.
Here is what I find:
While the first one mentions API SM, it stresses BMW LL-O1, and only lists four acceptable oils. All of these oils meet the Euorpean ACEA A3 rating. As I've said before, they are talking about what you can add to top off the oil level, not what is acceptable for an oil change. API SM is a broad spec. I'd stay with LL-01.
#382
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At best/worse these statements above are contradictory:
Only use oils with an API rating of SM or higher. The choice of the right SAE grade is based on the climatic condition in the region in which you normally drive your MINI. To best determine which SAE grade is best suited for your vehicle, contact an authorized MINI dealership.
Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30 is in stock and on sale at Pep Boys for: 5qts for $24.99 + a free oil filter (I got a filter for my other car).
Only use oils with an API rating of SM or higher. The choice of the right SAE grade is based on the climatic condition in the region in which you normally drive your MINI. To best determine which SAE grade is best suited for your vehicle, contact an authorized MINI dealership.
Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30 is in stock and on sale at Pep Boys for: 5qts for $24.99 + a free oil filter (I got a filter for my other car).
#383
Robin this direct quote is in the Owners Lounge under Owner Perks and then Ask The Production Manager. As long as the oil is synthetic and is SM grade and one of the viscosity's Mini recomends it will work just fine in the car.
See if this link works...it might not because I had to sign in and it is a https link: https://ol.miniusa.com/auth/ProductManagerAnswers.aspx
QUOTE=Robin Casady;2833503]I don't find that quote in the Owner's Lounge. Where is it?
Here is what I find:
[/QUOTE]
See if this link works...it might not because I had to sign in and it is a https link: https://ol.miniusa.com/auth/ProductManagerAnswers.aspx
QUOTE=Robin Casady;2833503]I don't find that quote in the Owner's Lounge. Where is it?
Here is what I find:
While the first one mentions API SM, it stresses BMW LL-O1, and only lists four acceptable oils. All of these oils meet the Euorpean ACEA A3 rating. As I've said before, they are talking about what you can add to top off the oil level, not what is acceptable for an oil change. API SM is a broad spec. I'd stay with LL-01.
#385
At best/worse these statements above are contradictory:
Only use oils with an API rating of SM or higher. The choice of the right SAE grade is based on the climatic condition in the region in which you normally drive your MINI. To best determine which SAE grade is best suited for your vehicle, contact an authorized MINI dealership.
Only use oils with an API rating of SM or higher. The choice of the right SAE grade is based on the climatic condition in the region in which you normally drive your MINI. To best determine which SAE grade is best suited for your vehicle, contact an authorized MINI dealership.
My 2007 manual, and the quotes I posted contradict what you found in the Q&A. They only recommed SM oils for topping off. I wouldn't be surprised if that Q&A was written by a marketing drone who didn't get the distinction between topping up and the broader meaning of "endorse the use".
To me, the point of all these DIY oil threads is not what you can get away with, but what is best for the engine. If you only want to do the minimum required for the warranty, why bother to read this thread? Just let MINI do the free services.
I think the people reading this are interested in what is best for the engine. To me, the evidence points to oils that meet LL-01 and ACEA A3. I'm told that the UK manual says A3 is required. I would guess that when the MINI manual was translated from English to American, MINI switched from ACEA to API to be more comfortable to the locals. Problem is that although SM is the highest API rating for gas engines, it is much broader than ACEA A3. SM includes A5 oils which have a lower viscosity at temp than A3. So, probably not quite what the engine was designed for. Tolerable for tame street driving, perhaps. A good idea for spirited driving, harsh conditions, track days, or AutoX? I wouldn't do it.
See if this link works...it might not because I had to sign in and it is a https link: https://ol.miniusa.com/auth/ProductManagerAnswers.aspx
https://ol.miniusa.com/auth/Warranty.aspx
#386
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Good discussion guys!
My research on LL-01 is that is has to with long oil change interval and the new "VALVETRONIC" engine in the Mini.
The long oil change interval part is of little concern to me, as all the research I did on this for BMWs and Minis says: DON'T DO THIS!
The VALVETRONIC engine on the other hand is a unknown variable in this equation?
But my concern is that the Mini is a viscosity oil
If your are driving hard in very high ambient temps are these low viscosity LL-01 approved oils going to be the best choice?
My research on LL-01 is that is has to with long oil change interval and the new "VALVETRONIC" engine in the Mini.
The long oil change interval part is of little concern to me, as all the research I did on this for BMWs and Minis says: DON'T DO THIS!
The VALVETRONIC engine on the other hand is a unknown variable in this equation?
But my concern is that the Mini is a viscosity oil
If your are driving hard in very high ambient temps are these low viscosity LL-01 approved oils going to be the best choice?
#387
Actually, I think you hit on the most important factor in what makes a particular oil correct: engine design. Depending on the engineering, there's no reason a very low viscosity oil couldn't work. The MINI's engine is no 331 Chrysler Hemi, so you have to use the information gained from older engines with caution when making decisions about newer engines.
Ever see the lube oil for a jet engine? The stuff's like water, but it's used to lubricate some very highly stressed bearing surfaces. One of the uses of high viscosity oils is in engines with large internal clearances to prevent the oil from flowing away from the bearing surfaces too quickly. However, just because an oil has low viscosity doesn't mean it can't lubricate well. Try dropping some Mil-H-5606 mineral-based hydraulic fluid on a cement floor and walking on it; it has zero viscosity, but lot's of lubrication.
Could you point me to the results of your research into the LL-01 oils? I'd love to see that information.
Ever see the lube oil for a jet engine? The stuff's like water, but it's used to lubricate some very highly stressed bearing surfaces. One of the uses of high viscosity oils is in engines with large internal clearances to prevent the oil from flowing away from the bearing surfaces too quickly. However, just because an oil has low viscosity doesn't mean it can't lubricate well. Try dropping some Mil-H-5606 mineral-based hydraulic fluid on a cement floor and walking on it; it has zero viscosity, but lot's of lubrication.
Could you point me to the results of your research into the LL-01 oils? I'd love to see that information.
#388
I have not been able to find an LL-01 oil that is not ACEA A3. Some sites claim that LL-01 requires A3.
The MINI branded 5W-30 and all four oils specifically recommended in the MINI Owner's Lounge:
Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W-30
Mobil 1 0W-40
Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra 5W-30
Valvoline SynPower 5W-30 (Ah, the power of sin. Tempting. )
Meet LL-01 and ACEA A3.
If you look at page 5 and 7 of this PDF on ACEA ratings, A3 is described as a "low viscosity oil" yet it has the highest viscosity rating at high temp and high shear rate. I believe that means it is designed for high performance engines with tight tolerances.
The MINI branded 5W-30 and all four oils specifically recommended in the MINI Owner's Lounge:
Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W-30
Mobil 1 0W-40
Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra 5W-30
Valvoline SynPower 5W-30 (Ah, the power of sin. Tempting. )
Meet LL-01 and ACEA A3.
If you look at page 5 and 7 of this PDF on ACEA ratings, A3 is described as a "low viscosity oil" yet it has the highest viscosity rating at high temp and high shear rate. I believe that means it is designed for high performance engines with tight tolerances.
#389
Well, I did my oil change and used Mobil 1 0W-40. I trust this oil and have a bunch of it because I use it in my Porsche too and tend to change oil frequently due to track events with the Porsche. The Mobil 1 0w-40 is both a SM and A3 oil...so I am good to go.
However I believe what my dealer told me and what I interpret what the owners manual say....that a high performance sythetic SM grade oil in 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-30 and 5w-40 will work for all climates for the Mini engine.
However I believe what my dealer told me and what I interpret what the owners manual say....that a high performance sythetic SM grade oil in 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-30 and 5w-40 will work for all climates for the Mini engine.
#390
I got just the job done and it took about an hour. It can be done much faster but I take my time especially with an oil change. The biggest hassle was reaching the oil filter cap with the 27mm cap purchased from AtlanticBritish.com. Worked well but I had to partially move the coolant tank to get a good look at the filter cap and make space for the wrench. It is pretty tight in there and a few cuts and bruises later it was off.
I was reminded once again how compact the engine is and moving the coolant tank out of the way was very useful. Perhaps if you had a long handle on the wrench it might have been possible to leave the coolant tank intact. However, I recommend moving it at least partially so that you can pull the oily filter out easily. I did manage to have some oil drip from the open filter housing once the filter was off but so wiping it off the engine block took some effort.
I used an Allen wrench to remove the oil drain plug but I have to say that I strongly feel that this horizontal, downward facing plug is a bit of a pain for two reasons. One, it is painted black and blends in with the oil drain housing. This prevents one making sure there is no oil leaking from the plug which is much easier with a silver plug and housing. Another problem is that since it is downward facing the oil plug takes more effort screwing back in because of the constant drip from the outlet as opposed to a side-ways facing plug. This is just my personal opinion and others might not feel this is a problem.
4.4 qt of Castrol 5W-30 synthetic was added in and the engine was started to make sure the oil circulated properly. All in all not a bad process, just a bit tight in there and it takes some getting used to. The car was on a ramp which made the job quicker. Just make sure you DO NOT loosen the transmission drain plug....it is clearly marked with a sticker saying transmission fluid. The transmission plug is right under the driver and the oil plug is under the passenger side.
I was reminded once again how compact the engine is and moving the coolant tank out of the way was very useful. Perhaps if you had a long handle on the wrench it might have been possible to leave the coolant tank intact. However, I recommend moving it at least partially so that you can pull the oily filter out easily. I did manage to have some oil drip from the open filter housing once the filter was off but so wiping it off the engine block took some effort.
I used an Allen wrench to remove the oil drain plug but I have to say that I strongly feel that this horizontal, downward facing plug is a bit of a pain for two reasons. One, it is painted black and blends in with the oil drain housing. This prevents one making sure there is no oil leaking from the plug which is much easier with a silver plug and housing. Another problem is that since it is downward facing the oil plug takes more effort screwing back in because of the constant drip from the outlet as opposed to a side-ways facing plug. This is just my personal opinion and others might not feel this is a problem.
4.4 qt of Castrol 5W-30 synthetic was added in and the engine was started to make sure the oil circulated properly. All in all not a bad process, just a bit tight in there and it takes some getting used to. The car was on a ramp which made the job quicker. Just make sure you DO NOT loosen the transmission drain plug....it is clearly marked with a sticker saying transmission fluid. The transmission plug is right under the driver and the oil plug is under the passenger side.
#391
A long extension for the socket wrench makes removing the oil filter easier. However, on the MCS it is easier to move the coolant tank, than try and work around it. Only takes one screw (8mm socket).
Wearing gloves is a good idea for dealing with the drain plug. Disposable nitrile gloves are good.
Wearing gloves is a good idea for dealing with the drain plug. Disposable nitrile gloves are good.
#392
A long extension for the socket wrench makes removing the oil filter easier. However, on the MCS it is easier to move the coolant tank, than try and work around it. Only takes one screw (8mm socket).
Wearing gloves is a good idea for dealing with the drain plug. Disposable nitrile gloves are good.
Wearing gloves is a good idea for dealing with the drain plug. Disposable nitrile gloves are good.
Exactly....it didnt occur to me that the MCS had a bit of a tighter fit!
#395
#396
I think 0W30 is Castrol Syntec. Beyond the hype, I do not know how Edge and Syntec compares. I have not tried Edge.
But 0W30 Castrol Syntec works well especially for winter.
#397
Currently, I think that there are only two grades of Castrol Edge, 5W30 and 10W30. According to the ads, Edge is supposed to provide superior protection.
I think 0W30 is Castrol Syntec. Beyond the hype, I do not know how Edge and Syntec compares. I have not tried Edge.
But 0W30 Castrol Syntec works well especially for winter.
I think 0W30 is Castrol Syntec. Beyond the hype, I do not know how Edge and Syntec compares. I have not tried Edge.
But 0W30 Castrol Syntec works well especially for winter.
I sent them a message through their online form, asking them to bring over Castrol Edge 0W-30 because their current grades don't meet BMW LL-01 or ACEA A3. I encourage others to do the same.
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Just want to say thanks for this thread - I changed my oil yesterday without any issues...had to jack the passenger side up to get the pan and wrench to fit under the car -
took 4.5 quarts of Mini branded oil - at least that's what I put in b/c I still can't read the stupid dipstick. Total cost w/ filter was $45.92
Thanks again!
took 4.5 quarts of Mini branded oil - at least that's what I put in b/c I still can't read the stupid dipstick. Total cost w/ filter was $45.92
Thanks again!
#399