There is nothing in the first post about the reason it was created was for those who felt the engine should not go 15,000 to 20,000 miles before the first oil change (looks like the first reference to the long interval was about post 58). Similarly, there is no mention (nor would I say even any implication) about this just being for the purpose of going beyond maintaining the warranty. The first post is clearly a DIY post meant to help people who want to change their own oil on an R56 MCS. For whatever reason they may have.

Other related and sometimes unrelated issues have come up during the life of the thread and I don't have any problem with folks discussing them as I indicated in an earlier response. Apparently you do since you are the one who claimed this thread is only for those who want to do what is best for their engine (which I am deducing is something more than maintaining the warranty per your post) and are skeptical of the OBC intervals.

Frankly, I would assume anyone reading the thread is interested in doing what is best for their engine. I wouldn't tell them the thread is not meant for them because they choose to use 5w-30 instead of 0w-30.

You are the one who posted a statement indicating the thread is only meant for certain posters/readers who meet certain criteria. Criteria which, despite your claim, do not exist in the original post. I pointed out that I was under the impression the thread was meant for a different audience - those who want to do their own oil changes.

To go back to an earlier post, I'll go ahead and answer now. Per your post, I don't meet the criteria for who this thread is meant for nor apparently, for doing my own oil changes. While I am interested in doing what is best for the engine, I am not skeptical of the OBC intervals.

I am changing the oil myself a) to save costs - as I noted, the service plan does not last forever and I no longer qualify for "free" service, so any oil changes I get done - whether per the OBC or at some other interval, have to be paid for, so doing it myself is cheaper than getting it done somewhere else and b) because I enjoy working on my own car.

Fortunately for me, posters like z3bum posted info that helps me do that. Other posters (yourself included) help me figure out what is best for my engine - whether I agree with them or not. And clearly, different posters can reach different conclusions regarding what is best for their engine. Opinions regarding the OBC intervals really have no bearing on how to do an oil change (though again, it is useful information).

 

ron-s mini:
Based on my understanding of Dr. Haas article, your last question is spot on. The real concern is having oil thin enough, which apparently is not possible, to protect and lubricate at start-up.

 

Today I changed the oil in my 09 Cooper. It was a breeze. Until I took the filter housing off. I drained the oil with the oil cap off, then broke the seal on the filter housing hoping the oil in the filter would drain down. No luck..... oil poured out of the housing and I had a lot of clean up. The oil was not black at all. It was brownish.
The previous posts really helped.
Thanks all.

 

The viscosity at operating temp is not NEAR as critical as the ability to flow at low temps. I've used 5W-30 since I bought the car and now have 37000 miles on it. Doesn't use a drop of oil in 6000 miles and runs like a champ. And I am very very hard on the "foot feed." I recommend once again that anyone interested in the tech details of oil and its use in an internal combustion engine read the article on the Ferrari Club's home page.

 

Nothing wrong with 5W-30. The question for me is whether that particular 5W-30 meets BMW's LL-01 (A3) recommendation. The USA Castrol 5W-30 does not. The MINI and BMW branded (made by Castrol) 5W-30 does. Other brands also have LL-01 (A3) oils.

From the article, Castrol's 0W-30 sounds like a good choice. That's probably what I'll use when I next do an oil change myself. You can use what you want.

 

In Europe, the BMW LL-01 (2001) is an old standard that has been superceded by BMW LL-04 (2004). So we are getting the lower standards here in the US (perhaps because of the free full maintenance program?? but who knows).

Additionally, BMW/Mini oil is fine for the engines even though it is "hydrocrack" oil or super refined mineral oil. This stuff qualifies for synthethic in the US (from the Castrol 1999 ruling against Mobil) but it is not considered to be full synthetic in Germany. It is "synthetic" here in the US because it has synthetic additives.

There are "hydrocracked oils" in the US (called synthetic technology in Germany not full synthetic) that meets the BMW LL-04 standards such as Lubro Moly 5W30.

In Germany, only Polyol Ester or 100% man made oils are considered full synthetic. In terms of the BMW/Mini recommended oils, only Castrol 0W30 and Mobil 0W40 are German approved full synthetics. Another brand of Polyol Ester oil that I use a lot is Redline 5W30 even though it does not have all the ratings but this oil is fully race track proven.

What is the difference between "Hydrocrack" and Polyol Ester oils? Supposedly at the sustained high temperatures levels when Polyol Ester does not require much additives to stay at the right viscosity so it is less likely to have thermal break down. Bottom line is that Polyol Ester oil is supposed to be more stable at extreme stress.

Rather than looking at ratings only, look at the type of oil you are putting into your engine if you are so inclined.

 

Looks to me that you also get "Fast Times" the newsletter of Bavarian Autosport. Word for word. You should really give them credit for the information.

 

I have been saying the same thing on this forum for over a year now. And I have been using Polyol Ester oil for over 15 years. Perhaps you should reread the post to only find some significant differences. I did use some of their terms and some conceptd because they did say it better than I would.

Anyway, the most important fact that most people miss is that not all synthetic is real synthetic. Regardless it is good information for NAM to have and you definately have too much time on your hands.

 

That right there should be the answer, if they recommend it then you can't go wrong with any claims down the road.

 

One little hint that will save you some clean-up in the future is to loosen the filter cap but do not remove the filter until the oil has drained, then remove the drain plug and let the oil drain from the pan. Loosening the filter cap allows most of the oil in the filter to drain out and keeps the mess up top to a minimum.

Another hint is to get the engine warmed up if not at OP temp so more oil will drain from the block when it is warm/hot. Just be very careful to not get burned as you pull the drain plug. I've always just let the plug fall into the catch-basin then worry about getting it out later.
Good post and great pics, and congrats on avoiding the tickets from the city hounds!

 

Hello all,

I'm a little paranoid- read somewhere about people having lots of metal in their oil after changing it after 1200 miles, so I changed it at 130 miles.

I have a couple of problems- my first is that when I opened the oil fill cap on the top of the engine, I noticed a little bit of white smoke coming out for a while (about 2 minutes). This was after about 5 minutes of driving. Is this anything to be concerned about? I also get the smoke out of the tailpipe at startup- again, not a lot, but definitely noticeable. I'm going to drive it around for 10-15 minutes and come back and see if I still see the smoke. This smoke doesn't smell foul (on either end).

My second is the filter I replaced is very dark in color compared to the new white one. A charcoal grey color. Has anyone else experience this? Again, is this something to be concerned about? Thanks for your help in advance- this thread was beyond useful in my oil change! I even paid extra close attention to the rubber gasket.

UPDATE: After 20 minutes of driving, exhaust smoke is gone, but smoke in the oil fill cap is still there.

 

I don't think you have anything to worry about. The smoke from under the cap is just normal vapors from a just used engine. The exhaust smoke sounds normal too as long as you aren't having an excessive amount pouring out or I think with a blushish tint.

The different color on the oil filter could just be them using a different brand of filter for your build date. As for the super early oil change, you might end up wanting to change it in a 1000-2000 miles. The 1200 safety guideline is a good time to allow all the engine parts to settle in and allow any (if any) metal shavings (very small if any with todays modern technology in building) to exit to engine and settle in the oil sump. At 130 miles I don't think it would really be fully done if there is any metal.

I'd say focus most of keeping the RPMs down for now until you pass that magical 1200+ miles when you can let'er rip!

Enjoy your car everything will be fine

 

Thank you! 1200 miles it is.

 

You sure that wasn't 12,000 miles? The guy who's oil had become abrasive due to metal content has 12,500 miles on the initial oil, IIRC.

 

Hehe, to be honest, as soon as I saw "metal flakes" I glazed over and started worrying. I don't think it was only one person, but that may be an side-effect of glazing over .

 

Wow, glad I didn't read this whole thing.

I just picked up my new 2010 MCS, I'll be changing the fluids at 1200 miles and sending samples to Blackstone labs for analysis.

Also glad I have a lift in my garage...lol

 

Great post! I just peaked under my non-S MC hood and realized I have no excuse not to do this myself. It's just sitting there, exposed and vulnerable. My brother-in-law has a Mityvac I'm going to use. Also, I noticed my oil level was a half inch above the high mark after a recent dealer change. Should I worry?

 

I am glad that over 56,000 viewers have read my thread! I posted it orignially because I felt like 15,000 miles was too long between oil changes. (especially for agressively driven MINIs)

Here's to another 56,000 viewers!

 

I don't think I posted on this thread directly, but thanks, z3bum! I referred back to it repeatedly while doing my first change. The only thing I'd add is I felt much better knowing I'd actually torqued down the drainplug and filter cap to factory specs. If you have a torque wrench, I'd highly recommend doing so.

Also, one note: if you have an MCS, the job is quite a bit more cramped, as all the turbo hardware and plumbing is right where all that beautiful empty space is on the Justacooper. You just have to be willing to stick your hands in there and get to work. I drained my oil with the engine fully warmed (oil comes out better), so I let it sit for about half an hour to let things cool down before sticking my hands in the engine bay. Things were warm, but I didn't get burned on anything.

 

Same thing with mine, and many others after dealer oil changes. I have a feeling this is done intentionally. My dealer (and probably most others) use a machine that dispenses a specific amount of oil. They have to set it to over-fill. It isn't like they were just pouring qt. bottles and couldn't be bothered to do halves.

I talked to my SA about it and he talked to the service manager. They said it would not cause any problems, and not to worry about it.

Since others have reported the same over-fill, and none have reported problems resulting from it. I'm going to assume it is intentional. I've been running with the over-fill level several thousand miles, and all seems fine.

Thanks for doing it.



I use a very long extension on my socket wrench. So, I only have to stick my hands in to retrieve the filter & housing, and reinstall. After moving the coolant tank, it isn't that cramped.

Good ideal to let it cool while draining. Probably good to loosen the filter so it will drain at the same time. With a long extension, you can avoid sticking your hands in while hot.

 

I'm pretty positive my dealer uses bottles to fill up the oil.

Also don't have your carpets steam cleaned. Here's an $8,000 reason why not. Apologies for the $hitty phone pic. (not my car thankfully)....every wire needed to be replaced.

 

^^^ ....wtf...

 

Clarification please... I have read in this thread you need a 27mm socket for the oil filter in a 2010 MCS. In other places I've read 36mm? Can someone please confirm for a '10?

Thanks!

 

27mm for -- 2007 -- 2010

 

Great! Thank you much!