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I'm having an issue with the number plate bulbs not working tried various bulbs still no good tested the connector and I'm getting 14v there any ideas what the middle cable on the connector is for ? Cheers
hello.
The middle cable power the trunk lid bulbs and the micro switch itself. Sounds like you have a break in the short connection on the grip side. Check the interior wire for crud and corrosion, also the metal tabs that hold the bulbs can corrode it the plastic clear lens covers fell off or did get moisture past the lens.
Looking at buying a used R56 and the owner explained his latch had stopped working. Thanks to this thread I was able to determine that the issue that was scaring me is no longer a worry, THANKS!!!
I just joined this group.. this is my very first post so I hope I am doing this right. I just replaced my Trunk Lid Handle on my 2007 Mini. The rubber handle was rotted out so I bought the entire piece to replace. I made the connections and screwed everything back in place. I tested the lights.. it worked... I tested the trunk opener on my key fob.. it worked. I used the handle grip to open the hatch.. it worked. Then I locked my car with the Key Fob.. everything locked.. except my hatch. I took everything apart to make sure I installed it right .. checked everything again... and had the same problem. The ONLY way I can get my hatch to lock is to have one of my key fobs in the ignition, then with the other key fob in hand.. lock the car and then the hatch locks. IF I take that key fob out of the ignition and try to lock the car.. all locks with exception of rear hatch. I called the dealer and was told I now need to purchase a Trunk Lid Lock and that is what my problem is. I am writing in hopes that someone on this panel knows if this is correct or if I am being told something so that I have to shell out more money. Does ANYONE know why this is happening and if there is another option? Thank you in advance everyone!!
Looking at buying a used R56 and the owner explained his latch had stopped working. Thanks to this thread I was able to determine that the issue that was scaring me is no longer a worry, THANKS!!!
today my trunk button was working ok, but (I don't know why) today I was opening the trunk by touching the button and nothing. I checked the car was totally unlocked (ok) and then I touched the button again. BUT I could hear a noise like some plastic under the button crashed
Now the button is still not working and it feels different (like less resistance).
I'm sure it was too much pressure with my hand and something is wrong inside the button.
I have the trunk lid grip in my hand and I was checking how to access the button, but I can see now, here, in this thread that the button is not accessible (I suspected that).
I'm searching for a new button (I need an entire trunk lid grip), and I was checking your links.
My car is a Mini Cooper 2010 non-S.
P/N: 51132753603
I was searching for the black one (actually mine is black, thanks to plastidip )
It is for my car model? (Specs don't say about gen nor year):
replaced my trunk button today- got really tired of the random pop openings when starting or closing the doors and not being able to utilize the button to open the hatch without the key fob.
today my trunk button was working ok, but (I don't know why) today I was opening the trunk by touching the button and nothing. I checked the car was totally unlocked (ok) and then I touched the button again. BUT I could hear a noise like some plastic under the button crashed
Now the button is still not working and it feels different (like less resistance).
I'm sure it was too much pressure with my hand and something is wrong inside the button.
I have the trunk lid grip in my hand and I was checking how to access the button, but I can see now, here, in this thread that the button is not accessible (I suspected that).
I'm searching for a new button (I need an entire trunk lid grip), and I was checking your links.
My car is a Mini Cooper 2010 non-S.
P/N: 51132753603
I was searching for the black one (actually mine is black, thanks to plastidip )
It is for my car model? (Specs don't say about gen nor year):
Welcome , i have fixed these on the gen 1 and Gen 2 MINIs and my own personal car, in Gen 2 you can do a transplant of the primed one of your old cover to save the outside painted part of design, Linked diy above as well as all the other options like Carbon fiber and Chrome. On Gen 2 MINIs they did not come in black, That was gen 1 MINI in black primed look and in Gen 3 MINI it comes in shiny black.
If you want to know about trunk grip handles we are the place.
Thanks for the write up, I ordered the carbon fiber one just to make the fix easier. Once I took the old one off I noticed it had just come unplugged. Oh well got the carbon fiber now
Fortunately yesterday I discovered that the button works!
It seems there is something wrong with the button but if pressed in the center (a little deeper than some days ago) it works perfectly.
Maybe the button has always locked by something and now it is unlocked. Or maybe just I broke something that is not serious.
I still like the F56 trunk lid handle (abs plastic cover) in glossy black.
Thanks for the write up, I ordered the carbon fiber one just to make the fix easier. Once I took the old one off I noticed it had just come unplugged. Oh well got the carbon fiber now
Welcome.
Originally Posted by miniuy
Fortunately yesterday I discovered that the button works!
It seems there is something wrong with the button but if pressed in the center (a little deeper than some days ago) it works perfectly.
Maybe the button has always locked by something and now it is unlocked. Or maybe just I broke something that is not serious.
I still like the F56 trunk lid handle (abs plastic cover) in glossy black.
Yes the button is more in the middle on the R56 vers the R53 R52 R50, its center and take a second or two once pressed for the release, like the microswitch has a little delay ( compared to my R52 ), and has to be touched spot on, like this on my R58 w/ Comfort access. You could always wrap the rear trunk grip in 3M gloss , matches the factory black line trim very close.
Fortunately yesterday I discovered that the button works!
It seems there is something wrong with the button but if pressed in the center (a little deeper than some days ago) it works perfectly.
Maybe the button has always locked by something and now it is unlocked. Or maybe just I broke something that is not serious.
I still like the F56 trunk lid handle (abs plastic cover) in glossy black.
Glad it's working. You can always get yours painted gloss black by a body shop or do it yourself with rattle cans.
+1 Nice write up. And a great job on the walk through.
Yes the part number for just the Trunk lid grip base backing part does not come up. Its only as one full part. Popping the rear cover off is great for people who want to transfer the internals and save on painting the new one.
Trunk Lid Grip - Primed Part number 51132754240
I've noticed the rubber cover on the hatch button on my 2007 MCS is cracking and I'm sure it's just a matter of time now before the moisture will kill the switch. Does this replacement part above include the rubber seal as well?
2006 convertible. The rear hatch was not working at all. I checked the function of the switch with a meter and the motor by jumping. Both worked fine. Based on a tip in a previous message, l thought it might be a bad wire in the run between the hatch and the body. So I bypassed the brown/grey and green/grey wires and voila; back in operation! The wires are of very small gauge which may explain their demise from the opening and closing of the hatch.
I just bypassed with lamp cord outside the rubber boot connecting the trunk lid to the body. I didn't bother to open the rubber boot to see the cause of the problem. The other functions fed by the wires inside the boot (lights) were working fine so I didn't want to bother them. I don't think corrosion was the issue because the car is not exposed to the elements and there are no other signs of corrosion. Thanks about letting me know I have Gen 1. So I have provided the same message in that forum.
I just bypassed with lamp cord outside the rubber boot connecting the trunk lid to the body. I didn't bother to open the rubber boot to see the cause of the problem. The other functions fed by the wires inside the boot (lights) were working fine so I didn't want to bother them. I don't think corrosion was the issue because the car is not exposed to the elements and there are no other signs of corrosion. Thanks about letting me know I have Gen 1. So I have provided the same message in that forum.
My R56 is garage kept and the switch boot still suffered cracking and caused switch to fail and randomly pop the trunk while traveling down the road... replaced and been back in business as normal.
I had ordered the CF , once I got the thing apart i noticed the plug was halfway in. Pushed in and out a few times to clean the contracts up. Worked fine.
Changed it out to the CF since I had it in hand.....
Others might want to take it apart first to see if its a simple fix sounds like..
Our button release stopped working and googling brought me to this thread. Once I tried the helpful trick of checking the wiring (will only work when the car is unlocked) with a paper clip, I knew it was the switch itself and not a wiring fault. So I decided to take it apart to see if it was fixable. I didnt have to worry about breaking it since it was junk anyway.
What I found was there is a small micro switch with a cover/spacer thing on there which presses the microswitch when you depress the rubber button. This plastic part had come away from the microswitch so the button couldn't activate it. So I glued it back on with no nails and its all working again.
09-02-2015, 02:25 PM
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