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Nick, my original post mentions the correct vendor. A subsequent post named you folks and that was an honest mistake. I don't know either of you vendors very well, so it was easy for me to confuse.
A fellow I know who has done repair work on my car suggested that I take the housing to a machine shop and have them machine off a couple thousandths from the flat surfaces to give the gasket a little more squish as he calls it. I replaced my gaskets about a year ago and they still leak. I took my filter housing to a machine shop and they examined the surfaces and told me they were flat. The fact that the thing still leaks is a P.I.T.A. Getting it out of there is so much work. One other tip. Have the engine steam cleaned first. It's a filthy greasy job.
A fellow I know who has done repair work on my car suggested that I take the housing to a machine shop and have them machine off a couple thousandths from the flat surfaces to give the gasket a little more squish as he calls it. I replaced my gaskets about a year ago and they still leak. I took my filter housing to a machine shop and they examined the surfaces and told me they were flat. The fact that the thing still leaks is a P.I.T.A. Getting it out of there is so much work. One other tip. Have the engine steam cleaned first. It's a filthy greasy job.
There is no need to go that in depth so as to have the surface milled. We clean the front of the engine and components with mineral spirits and brake clean, then re install everything with clean surfaces with no recurring leaks.
Are you sure you don't have a leak from the vacuum pump that you're interpreting as a leak from the oil filter housing?
Good question. I've tried to poke around with a light and a mirror to determine where the leak is coming from. I replaced the vacuum pump recently and didn't get the sense that it was leaking. Most of the wet oil seems to be hanging off of the oil filter housing. There are always a few drips on the garage floor.
The next thing is to determine why the engine is always about 1/3 quart low. I see smoke out of the back end, and when I do an oil change and remove the inlet pipe there is always oil at the juncture of the turbo and the inlet.j It pools up there. Could be a back pressure issue or there is oil blowing down the turbo shaft.
A fellow I know who has done repair work on my car suggested that I take the housing to a machine shop and have them machine off a couple thousandths from the flat surfaces to give the gasket a little more squish as he calls it. I replaced my gaskets about a year ago and they still leak. I took my filter housing to a machine shop and they examined the surfaces and told me they were flat. The fact that the thing still leaks is a P.I.T.A. Getting it out of there is so much work. One other tip. Have the engine steam cleaned first. It's a filthy greasy job.
I kinda like that suggestion actually. The bolt pattern on that oil filter housing is really poorly designed making it easy to bolt it so its not 100% flush with the engine block and the gaskets are really too thin.(What the HELL do the French know about building motors anyway.....)
I did mine twice and I think I still have a minor coolant leak.
Anyway make sure you use a proper flashlight such as this; make a big difference when searching the recesses: https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-6...JP292TM0CV253Z (I LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS LIGHT...the 18 inch version is a MUST)
The next option is to use some fluorescing die in the oil. That's what I did. It will give you a definitive answer.
Good question. I've tried to poke around with a light and a mirror to determine where the leak is coming from. I replaced the vacuum pump recently and didn't get the sense that it was leaking. Most of the wet oil seems to be hanging off of the oil filter housing. There are always a few drips on the garage floor.
The next thing is to determine why the engine is always about 1/3 quart low. I see smoke out of the back end, and when I do an oil change and remove the inlet pipe there is always oil at the juncture of the turbo and the inlet.j It pools up there. Could be a back pressure issue or there is oil blowing down the turbo shaft.
Excessive oil in the PCV tract can be due to worn rings, which isn't uncommon on these cars at higher mileage or poor maintenance early on. Same goes for the bearings in the turbo if run low on oil or extended oil changes. Once the tolerance between the bearings & shaft/center cartridge become excessive you aren't making a quality dynamic seal anymore.
What about a bad seal in the turbo proper? I have another turbo car (not Mini) and the turbo seals are known to be **** and I always find some oil at the turbo inlet.
ok I have been reading everyone's posts and I can't see this being 4-6 hr job...
I did the water pump belts etc,.and water inlet tube and the thermostat and catless DP...
Water pump was a pain the inlet water tube and thermo was a royal pain..so I'm thinking this can't be to tough...I will let everyone know of my experience I guess...
Oh yes....its an annoying job. I recommend putting it in service mode. Service mode is kind of a big job by itself, but its worth it. Fighting all those tiny bolts is so annoying?Its definitely a 6 hour job with the coolant flush unless youve done it multiple times. Ive done it twice.
Catless DP? What you dont like clean air? Nothing worse then driving behind a car without a cat.
Ok...I planned on changing the oil gaskets so I buy the mineral spirits and brake cleaner cleaned that side of the engine looks good...I start on draining the oil and I forgot My torx sockets to do the job...Damn it...So I bought the copper gasket maker. So I took the valve cover off and resealed that...So Maybe next time I will attack the Gaskets...But now that my engine is clean I can see exactly where I'm leaking oil....And I also put the Catless DP on for the second time..Had an Evovle Catless now I bought the CNT Racing Catless.....What a difference very responsive... not big on the sound but spools quicker
..It's resonator time...I will put that back on and see it it calms the noise down a bit...
Today I replaced the oil filter housing gaskets and the gaskets for the oil cooler. This is to try and fix an oil leak that drips down the bellhousing and looks like a rear main leak. The first picture is of a leak on a car similar to how mine looks. Previously I had replaced the valve cover and turbo oil lines.
First things first: I'm long winded, and I'm trying to put details in to help people. Sorry if this gets long.
Plan on 4-6 hours to do this, assuming that you don't have difficulties. I spent extra time because I tried to do this from the top (removed coolant tank, turbo inlet and outlet hoses). I came to the conclusion that this has to be done from under the car.
Two of the bolts holding the oil filter housing in place are under the exhaust heat shield. Therefore you need to remove the heat shields and downpipe to get to this job.
Some things to think about before you get into this:
1. If you have never removed the downpipe, plan on some time for this.
2. If the exhaust clamp has never been removed, buy another one. Don't try and save the old one, cut it off and replace it.
3. This job will expose the turbo oil lines, so it is the perfect time to replace them.
4. If you want to add a heat wrap to the turbo, this is the time to do this as well.
5. The coolant is drained, so if you think that you may have a thermostat or water pump leak, this job will save you some steps.
6. I removed the coolant tank for access, but then I saw that my tank has a small crack in the bottom of it, along with some staining that shows that it is leaking.
Parts you need:
1. Oil filter housing gasket kit
2. Oil cooler gasket kit
3. Coolant/distilled water
4. Downpipe to turbo gasket
Optional parts:
1. Oil change supplies (there is a pretty good chance that some coolant will get in the oil, but not necessarily required)
2. Turbo oil feed and drain lines
3.
Tools:
1. T25 torx bit
2. Various metric sockets, ratcheting wrenches
3. Lots of towels, cardboard, drain pan. This job is seriously messy, and I don't see any way to avoid this.
4. Brake cleaner or something to clean parts and the engine block
The second picture is the oil filter housing, the side that bolts to the block. 4 bolts connect the housing to the block.
The third picture is the other side of the oil filter housing, the side that the oil cooler bolts on.
I'm gonna do this in multiple posts since I can only put 3 pics in each post.
Mike
Thanks for the information on this repair. I started this morning and already am having troubles. I found the 2 bolts on the heat shield but the 3d one with the slotted head is a mystery. The previous thread spoke of it being on the passenger side behind the radiator?
Thanks again for any help
Today I replaced the oil filter housing gaskets and the gaskets for the oil cooler. This is to try and fix an oil leak that drips down the bellhousing and looks like a rear main leak. The first picture is of a leak on a car similar to how mine looks. Previously I had replaced the valve cover and turbo oil lines.
First things first: I'm long winded, and I'm trying to put details in to help people. Sorry if this gets long.
Plan on 4-6 hours to do this, assuming that you don't have difficulties. I spent extra time because I tried to do this from the top (removed coolant tank, turbo inlet and outlet hoses). I came to the conclusion that this has to be done from under the car.
Two of the bolts holding the oil filter housing in place are under the exhaust heat shield. Therefore you need to remove the heat shields and downpipe to get to this job.
Some things to think about before you get into this:
1. If you have never removed the downpipe, plan on some time for this.
2. If the exhaust clamp has never been removed, buy another one. Don't try and save the old one, cut it off and replace it.
3. This job will expose the turbo oil lines, so it is the perfect time to replace them.
4. If you want to add a heat wrap to the turbo, this is the time to do this as well.
5. The coolant is drained, so if you think that you may have a thermostat or water pump leak, this job will save you some steps.
6. I removed the coolant tank for access, but then I saw that my tank has a small crack in the bottom of it, along with some staining that shows that it is leaking.
Parts you need:
1. Oil filter housing gasket kit
2. Oil cooler gasket kit
3. Coolant/distilled water
4. Downpipe to turbo gasket
Optional parts:
1. Oil change supplies (there is a pretty good chance that some coolant will get in the oil, but not necessarily required)
2. Turbo oil feed and drain lines
3.
Tools:
1. T25 torx bit
2. Various metric sockets, ratcheting wrenches
3. Lots of towels, cardboard, drain pan. This job is seriously messy, and I don't see any way to avoid this.
4. Brake cleaner or something to clean parts and the engine block
The second picture is the oil filter housing, the side that bolts to the block. 4 bolts connect the housing to the block.
The third picture is the other side of the oil filter housing, the side that the oil cooler bolts on.
I'm gonna do this in multiple posts since I can only put 3 pics in each post.
Mike
Thanks for the information on this repair. I started this morning and already am having troubles. I found the 2 bolts on the heat shield but the 3d one with the slotted head is a mystery. The previous thread spoke of it being on the passenger side behind the radiator?
Thanks again for any help
Man...I dont recall any slotted head bolt. I did this job twice but its been a while. Are you referring to the heat shield next to the block or on top of the turbo?
Man...I dont recall any slotted head bolt. I did this job twice but its been a while. Are you referring to the heat shield next to the block or on top of the turbo?
Keep looking...trust me, youll find them.
i think I will remove all the heat shielding parts. May help giving a little more room.
ya you could probably stand in the engine bay of that Galaxie. But alas, you own a Mini...as in miniature.
I hate to tell you this now, but changing the oil feed line and return line for the turbo would be a smart idea; and make sure you use the correct coolant if you dont reuse what you have. See post #75 and this pic of the oil return line.
Whatever you do make sure you're very very deliberate about tightening down that oil cooler to the engine block. The bolts are placed such that it is easy to clamp it down in an uneven fashion which leads to leaks.
Yes you need to pull all that off and drain your engine oil and coolant.
Thanks for the additional info. The oil line return does look sketchy. It has a soft, not normal looking spot on it. I had thought it has got to go. Time to swap them out too. Thanks again
04-11-2016 | 02:30 PM
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