I have a dewalt impact gun - works wonders, but get the 18V one, torque makes all the diffrence!

Alex

 

Thanks for the info--I missed your post earlier. I was planning on using the impact wrench for both lug bolt removal--yep, I remove mine atleast once a month-- and for removing my rotors---as I read in another how-to article.

The 18volt electric ones seem like a good option if you don't already have a compressor, or don't plan on buying a whole set of airpowered tools--not to mention, it makes the wrench very portable.

I think I'll do more research. Thanks!

Oh thanks Alex for that feedback as well.

Richard

 

Told my wife just the other day - "He who dies with the most tools, wins!"

(as I was buying more Craftsman sockets at Sears...)

 

I've had deadblows with shot, and sand in them. They're the ONLY way to break the rear drums off my truck when i had to change pads.

 

For this type of sliding caliper assembly (also widely used on BMW's and other European cars) there's an easier way to retract the piston (front only, not the rear which needs to be turned). Instead of taking off the caliper, then using the carpenter's clamp, block of wood, third hand, etc., do the following.

You'll need a 6" C-clamp (in England we call them G-clamps, which makes sense if you look at one). With the caliper still bolted up, put the fixed end of the clamp against the back side of the caliper casting and the movable saddle through the window in the middle of the outer face of the caliper and against the back of the outer brake pad. Tightening the clamp will compress the piston back into its bore.

This is easier because the parts you're working on are are all self-supported while you tighten the clamp.

It's not necessary to use a torque wrench on the caliper guide bolts, although it certainly can't hurt. I would point out that torque wrenches aren't very effective near their extremes of range, so a 1/2" drive wrench is unlikely to give much accuracy for the low torque spec of the guide bolts. I have a low range 3/8" version for use when it's really necessary, but most people don't need to go to the expense. Just tighten them by hand, then snug them down firmly but without excessive force. Practice helps! If you use a short 3/8" drive ratchet handle it'll be hard to over-tighten them.

Where you should always use a torque wrench is to tighten the lug bolts.

A battery powered impact gun is a terrific tool for those of us who track our cars and change wheels (and brakes...) a lot. Just make sure it has enough torque to break free the lug bolts.

Neil

 

Ok the long awaited HOW TO for the Rear Pads has just been posted.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...345#post550345

Richard

 

I updated the first post with info on how to use the Harbor Freight Caliper Tool for compressing the piston.

 

Octane....

THANK YOU !!!

Using your guide I did my brakes yesterday. Exactly as you said and it went totally smooth. I replaced with the EBC Greenstuff pads.

I really appreciate your time and effort in writing this post.

Again... Thanks for the help !

Kesh

 

Awesome!! Glad to hear it. Always pleased to know that my articles have helped somebody else.

Richard

 

can a complete n00b do this brake pad change?
the only mechanical exp ive had was installing the alta cai.
cheers.

 

The answer would normally be yes, but did you read my article???? The fact that I wrote it for beginners (title), and the fact that it's all explained in photos above, makes me wonder that if you gotta ask the question, maybe you shouldn't try?

Yes it's easy to do, no it's not something you need to be a mechanical whiz to do, but remember these ARE your brakes. You mess them up, and the potential for creating a hazard is huge.

What can go wrong? Well plenty. Maybe you got greece on the brake pad surface so instead of stopping, it suffers from complete fade the first few times you use it. Or maybe you forgot to tighten some parts back to spec cause you didn't have a torque wrench, and under load something fails.

If you're reading these instructions still brings any doubt about your capabilities, I'd suggest you get someone qualified to assist, then maybe watch over them and learn.

Good luck!

Richard

 

I guess the only reason i asked is because whats easy to one person is hard to another person, but i get ur point - so thanks & cheers.

 

Well all I meant was that if the article seemed difficult to follow for a noobie, then maybe they shouldn't try. This information exists for anyone that's interested in learning, but isn't meant as a replacement for a qualified mechanic. Hope that's clear.

 

Thanks for this one too.

 

Sombody shold make this sticky

 

Thanks, while this writeup isn't stickied, all the articles I've written are stickied here (including this article)

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...splay.php?f=33

Richard

 

Stickie this How to

 

OctaneGuy,

Just wanted to thank you for being so detailed in your write up.

My 2003 MCS has over 60 k and I took it in to my favorite place Webster's Import Service, Greensboro, NC. Anybody in the area who has their warranty expired needs to go see them. They are the most honest guys and excellent mechanics and Roger Webster is a funny guy. After Scott and Roger Webster told me my front rotors were lipped (common with Euro. cars) and would need to be replaced with the pads they told me it would be about 330.00 to do the job. Very reasonable compared to the dealer I think.

BUT my wife has quit her job to be home with the kids and wants a Mini-van to boot. So I'm going to do the job myself. I have replaced pads on cars so I'm not afraid of that–I just need to know if there's any sticky business with these rotors. If anyone has done it please let me know if there's anything to watch out for vs a "standard" rotor swap.

Also on the 2003 as OctaneGuy noted, there's the sensor to consider. I don't have to replace it but I was wondering if anyone has used these pads–I'm going cheap her, but with 2 little ones now, the closest I'm getting to a track day is getting the Disney DVD's back to Bbuster before noon. I have attached the jpgs here–– Alex, will these pads handle the sensors?

If this needs to be moved to a new thread, great but I thought this was such a good thread it would be the place to start.

Any help will be very much appreciated!

Jake

 

Thanks for the nice words. Replacing the brake pads is pretty simple. The rear pads can be a bit tricky but aren't difficult once you do it. The spring clips on the back of the inner pad can be hard to attach to the piston. My neighbor who is a BMW mechanic suggested I remove the smaller springs and use a spray on brake product that is both sticky to hold the pad to the piston, and eliminates brake squeal. I tried it and it works great.

You can get a great deal on Mintex pads from
www.ecartoys.com

Looks like the prices have have gone up a bit, but the last time I bought them--back in March, they were $57 for front and back and included free shipping.

re: Rotors
I'm getting close to having to replace my front rotors. It's not hard to replace them, but you might need an impact wrench to loosen it. I've got an electric one that I bought from Harbor Freight and it moves up to 240 foot pounds. It may not be strong enough, I bought it for loosening my wheel lug bolts.

I think there is a good writeup on the rotor replacement over at Randy Webbs website. It will probably be atleast 6 months before I do a brake rotor writeup. LOL

Richard

 

Don't know why I didn't think to go there–I used Randy's site to do my pulley upgrade! Awesome wealth of knowledge there....

Randy was writing that the rear pistons retract as you turn the c-clamp–is this all you need to do to get the pistons to compress? I recall someone saying that you needed to turn the rear pistons to get them to compress unlike the fronts which just compress under pressure. Do you think the Harbor Freight kit is worth the extra money? I'm thinking I would have to get another c-clamp anyway so it might be worth it.

Also I just had my car serviced and they just replaced the brake fluid. Do you think I'll be ok just to bleed a little off the valve and then add a little more fluid if needed without having to bleed the lines completely and start over?

 

Fronts - yes they will.

Alex

 

I think the HF kit is totally worth the money. It makes the job simple and accurate each time. I know people say the C Clamp works just as well, but IMO, if there's a tool designed for the job, and it doesn't cost much, I'd much rather have that tool.

You shouldn't have to flush your brakes just to change your pads. You might need to bleed it if you encounter any issues, and thus you may need to top off the reservoir if you bleed too much. But I haven't had to bleed my brakes yet for brake pad changes.

Richard

 

I think I have it now. I'll let you know how it goes when I put them on in the next few weeks...

 

What's the name of that brake spray your neighbor used?

thanks,

Jake

 

Permatex Disc Brake Quiet
127ma 80077
You spray it on both the pad and the area of the caliper it attaches too--after cleaning both. You let it dry and apply atleast 2 coats. Once dried, then assemble. It looks like blue spray paint!

I had the red antisqueal stuff--forget the name--and he said the Permatex is way better and what they use in the BMW shop he works at. Said they tried every product out there to stop customers squealing brakes and they found it's the only stuff that works.