Great DYI write-up, Octaneguy!! I'm going to have to do a brake job soon.

The only tip or advice I'd like to chip in is to get a can of brake cleaner (sorry, if it was mentioned somewhere) and a dust mask and safety glasses.

-- Spray down the entire area of the brakes with the dust mask on at all times before starting to get rid of excessive brake dust and grime.

-- Do NOT use compressed air to remove or get the brake dust off. The safety glasses today are just like wearing sunglasses without the tints.

-- If you do get your greasy fingers or hand on the rotors and pads, which can be unavoidable, simply spray the affected areas pretty good and let the brake cleaner dry off, which happens quickly. Use the brake cleaner sparingly before putting the wheels back on to make sure it's all grease-free, but be careful to not wash away the other lube (anti-squeak stuff) put on.

-- Sometimes you can spray brake cleaner on to a lint-free cloth or towels to get better wipedowns.

Carry on, gentlemen.

 

The write up done by Octaneguy is simple first class!!!

 

Great write up!

I had noticed that when driving over uneven pavement or speed bumps I was getting a rattle. Check out the brakes and found that on the left front I'm missing the retaining wire? I have no idea how this happened. But i move the caliper just enough to hear a metal on metal noise which I can only assume is my rattle that I'm hearing (the noise goes away when applying breaks over bumps). Where can I find just the retaining wire for sale?
Thanks

 

To find the bmw part number I use www.realoem.com then with the bmw part# i go to www.ecstuning.com and enter that number.

 

I browse there for my car R53 MCS 06 built 09/2005 and I got the driagram of front brakes:
Main Group=34 BRAKES
Sub Group=34 05 Front Wheel BRAKE-BRAKE PAD SENSOR
Then click on the diagram
Find '04 Clip' BWM part# 34111512715

Then go
www.ecstuning.com
search for 34111512715
Brand:
ES#:59597
Mfg#: 34111512715

 

I have done some job on brake and I made 2 videos that can provide some reference as well.

Bleeding brake with Brake Bleeding kit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXZ_ylsaYsk

Changing brake pad, sensor and using caliber repositioning tool
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtgQ-NF4huU

 

This article is perfect timing. I just happened to order my caliper tool kit from outmotoring today. Just to let everyone know the kit is $20 cheaper from them than northern tool. I have changed brakes on many cars, but never on a Mini. Not much different than others I have done, which was a concern. Thanks again for taking the time to do this for all of us.

 

Perfect timing, I noticed that my pads were starting to show signs of wear. I just happend to order the caliper tool kit form Out Motoring today, which is actually $20 cheaper than Northern Tool. I have changed brakes on many different types of cars, and was happy to say that it looks no different. Thanks again for this time consuming write up. i am sure you would have had the job done in a fraction of the time if you would not have had to stop and take pics. thanks again

 

Just wanted to add my thanks for this really informative write-up. Even though I've done dozens of brake jobs on various cars over the years, seeing the shortcuts ahead of time (what size tools to use, etc.) made it easier the first time I tackled my wife's 2005 MC.

Attached is an image of a generic brake caliper compressor I've had for years, and it worked like a charm on the MINI. I think I paid all of $10 for it at Pep Boys, and with the exception of the rear brakes on my Golf (which has the turn-and-push method, like the MINI, so I bought a specialty tool for that) it can work on pretty much any caliper. In most cases, you have to slip a 22mm or so socket into the piston, otherwise the threaded part will be too short.

 

I changed my pads around 2-3 months ago and they work great, but are beginning to squeal..do you think that this is due to not applying plastilube? Has anybody else had this issue?

 

quick question(s)

I am confused a bit on the brake pad sensor wires.

Must they be replaced with every pad change or only when the Dash warning light is activated or non of the above and they can be reused?

Thanks

 

They're good to go until they've been tripped. If they light never came on, they can be reused.

- Mark

 

I really wish I would have found this write-up a few years ago when I did the brakes on my Jetta.

 

Great tutorial! I did my wife's brakes (05 S conv) and it was a very smooth job. I did replace the clips with a new set, and of course got anti-squeal compound over everything. I did reuse the sensor even though I had a heck of a time getting it out of the brake pad.

 

In all honesty, being 6'3", I am not a big fan of the 2002 Mini I bought momma to keep her happy. Never having changed "ANY" brake pads before, I found this post outstanding. The front right took about an hour cause I missed those 2 Allen screws from the back side, but when I got over to the left front, 20 min tops. Took me longer to wash the brake dust off. Not sure how much money I saved from this. Thanks for great post.

 

Thanks so much for the great write up! Brakes aren't usually too difficult but there is always a little gotcha that slows down the process. Your instructions were great! I had to go buy a torx size 50 to get the rotors off but they came off easily. New Power Stop K927 Front Drilled & Slotted Rotors & Z16 Ceramic Brake Pads which I hope were a good choice on my part.
[SIZE=2]After replacing both front brakes and rotors the brakes seem to be a bit spongy and don't seem to GRAB. Could this be because they are new? I didn't touch the brake lines so I shouldn't need to bleed the brakes, correct? I watched the fluid in the master the whole time and it stays well up.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2][/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]Any ideas would be appreciated! The brakes work but I just expected a tremendous difference... At least as good as the original.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=2]
Thanks and great forum!

Paul[/SIZE]

 

I cannot get the pictures to open. Can somebody provide tips? The pictures opened a few months ago when I saved the thread. Thank you.

 

I cannot get the pictures to open. Can somebody provide tips? The pictures opened a few months ago when I saved the thread. Also, I am looking for the torque setting for the caliber bolts and the axel nut. Thank you.

 

Sorry I'm having some problems with my webhost. I am working with them to get things resolved.

Richard

 

Pics are working for me as of this morning.
I wouldn't fret about torque on the caliper bolts. I use the standard German 'gutentight'.
IIRC, axle nut is 128ft lbs or thereabouts. You doing something else with the front end? No need to touch the axle nut for brakes.

 

front brakes - GEN1

guide pin bolts: 22 ft lb
caliber mounting bolts: 81 ft lb

rears 22 & 48

there is a footnote in the Haynes that rear guidepins should not be re-used, but no mention as to why .... I never changed mine and I'm still here . . .

 

Ahh. Now she works. Thanks, gentlemen.

 

This was an excellent write up. I changed my pads and rotors today. And this info was better than having a manual. Thank you!!!

 

Much thanks to OG and the rest of the replies! Used green stuff pads.. with the harbor freight tool on the rears, instead of continuously tightening the middle piece just hold it with a box end wrench and you can turn it easily. So far only driven about 50 miles just taking it real easy. just one minor squeek. might put more lube in and around come spring.

Thanks again!

This is also very helpful with big photos.. pelican parts diy pages..

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

 

hey guys. light just went on today and I suspect that from the dust it's the fronts.

I have done brakes on my truck and spyder and the rotors just come off (not attached by anything. In reading this, I can see that it seems these are attached using a torx head screw(s) could someone be so kind as to give me an idea where the rotors are attached?

thanks

edit found it so soak the T50 with penetrating oil is in order any other tips on not needing a redrill?