Hi,probably been asked loads of times but here goes.decided to service the mini and change the oil,its a uk mini one,2003,when removing the oil filter cover and exposing the filter i noticed its the early type with the black mesh and spring,2 questions,
1= do i have to use this plastic and spring again as i have noticed a couple of forums saying that it is not needed and that the newer models do without,
2= i am using an original bmw filter
any advise would help
cheers

 

7 years later, this is still a very helpful thread, so thank you to the OP, and all the tips made by other members.

I was able to change the oil on my MINI without a single drop spilled on the ground!


My 1st self performed MINI oil change was not without it's problems though...

I had tried to change it a few days ago at first, but I could not get the oil pan bolt loosened if my life depended on it.
A couple days later, I almost called the dealer to schedule to have them do it, but since I had already bought the filter, and the oil, and a 36mm socket (& wrench), I just had to give it one more try. Especially after reading through every post on this thread about how tight some of the oil pan bolts have been reported.

So I jacked up my car again onto its jack stands, and got out a 6 walled 1/2 inch socket & driver (only 3/8 drive though). I tried again with just the socket/driver combo, and still got no where. :(
So I then got out the biggest end wrench I had (1 3/8 I think), and I made it like an extension of the driver, pried really hard, and finally broke the damn oil pan bolt loose.
Smooth sailing from there...

Although, I learned two things after that:
# 1) always move the old oil in the drained pan further away from the car than just in front of the bumper, so when you are crawling out from under the car you don't flop around while scooting out, and accidentally put your foot into the drained oil pan.
#2) don't just wear sandals while changing your oil, put old, crappy shoes on.

Needless to say, I am very happy I finally got my oil changed on my MINI cooper! And didn't have to pay way too much at my local dealer.

 

Sorry for this late reply. Yes you do need to reuse that plastic piece & spring. If you don't your oil pressure light will come on at idle.

 

Thanks to everyone for the tips. Ended up not being as much as a pain as I thought it would with the filter design.

 

The canister setup is also common to motorcycles. I have always like it from an aesthetic perspective. I suspect that there is something to say for the cost and raw material use of this method. In theory, you could expect a better filter element when not purchasing a metal housing as well (similar cost for the filter in both cases). This also gives the original engine designer an expected outcome for the filter element and cannister capacity. Has anyone ever really studied the inside of a spin-on oil filter. There could be a quarter of the container with no filter element at all, or filler material that should not be there (the skeptical side of me).

 

Crap. I just discovered that I was responding to the spin-on vs. element discussion at the beginning of this thread. it was probably better answered in one of the 8 pages before this.

 

Just did my oil change. No sweat. Although its easy to get the dealer to do it and not much more money than the $52 in oil and filter, I always get a lot of satisfaction when I do my own maintenance. I have always done that with my motorcycles and I know that if there is a breakdown or something more serious, it was my fault. There is something intrinsically right about that. To me, it is similar to packing your own parachute.

 

&^%$ (and this from a guy who likes the canister filter!).

Loosen the oil canister AFTER you've drained the oil, and LEAVE THE DRAIN PLUG OFF! I know this, but didn't do it...

1. Do NOT forget to wait the 5 minutes!
2. Do NOT forget to wait the 5 minutes!
3. Do NOT forget to wait the 5 minutes!
4. Do NOT forget to wait the 5 minutes!
5. Do NOT forget to wait the 5 minutes!

Then wait one MORE minute, just because. Do not argue this.

Lube the o-ring before installation.

Reinstall the drain plug, and do not over tighten.

*&^%. Didn't listen to my own advice, and I've done this before. Brain fade makes messes. Simple Green isn't fun, but it works.

 

Yea, after your drain the oil. I did it that way and did not spill a drop. Not to rub it in, but to let others know it can be done.

 

A word to anyone attempting this for the first time. READ THE WHOLE THREAD. If I had, I would not have used a 12 point, 13mm socket. I would have used a 1/2" 6-point socket. Then I likely would not have stripped the head of the drain plug bolt which the dealer had torqued to about 100 ft-lbs. Instead I had to buy a new drain plug, and buy a set of "Bolt Out" sockets at Sears. Got it out and replaced, no biggie, but it was a pain.

 

Go get a VW drain plug (19mm head, same thread, from a 1985-1997 VW, possibly other models too). Use a VW copper crush washer, and get rid of the &^%$ mini plug entirely. THEN don't tighten the VW plug too much either. The rubber of the Mini plug swells and the thing sticks. You can use the VW plug full-length (it measures out 1mm or so longer than the Mini plug but there's nothing in the pan behind it to hit). Works great. And works on the R50/53, don't know about the 55 / 56+

 

Hi all,

Just wondering if I only put two jack stand infront only, will i still be able to drain all the oil from the car (since it no balance, front raised)?

Thank you

 

Yes - the oil drain bolt is at the back edge of the oil pan, so raising just the front wheels is actually better than raising all four wheels.

 

Thanks for the reply. Good to hear that, on my last weekend I DIYed oil change and it only require 5 bottle of Royal Purple 5w30 which is 0.946L * 5 = 4.73L and I thought MINI require 5litre of engine oil?

This make me wonder did I drain out all the old oil or not. I have double checked the oil dip stick when engine is cool and it show MAX

Oh well, I guess nothing to worry about

Thanks

 

Hello,
New to the forum, plus a great deal of information. Given that this has helped me, I would like to offer some information.

I read over the oil change and realized that I can do this myself.

Got the stuff and had no real problem, except the oil cannister is a bit of problem to get aligned.

Drain plug was way too tight, (Done for years by Pennzoil quick lube).

But, when I went to install the drain plug I noticed that it had aluminum threads on the plug. This is serious. So I carefully threaded the plug into the oil pan and then removed it, more threads, plus plug would not tighten. I then looked at the drain hole, and there where no threads at all. This is bad.

I knew there were only two options.
1. Buy a new oil pan (expensive and hard to replace)
2. Re-thread the oil pan to accept a lager plug

Since #2 is better, I went to the NAPA store and they have an oversized drain plug (14x1.5mm) that will tap new threads into the pan and be the new plug. The NAPA part number is 704-1362, cost is $3.

I carefully aligned the new plug and then slowly re-threaded the drain plug. I did not let the new plug get tight. I then removed the plug. Examining the plug showed aluminum cuttings. I cleaned the plug and carefully cleaned the oil drain hole. I then poured two quarts of clean oil into the engine so that any cuttings would be caught and drained into the used oil pan.

I then re-cleaned the drain hole again, and installed the new plug and torqued it to 23 ft/lbs.

Tested it and no leaks.

Hope this helps

 

Congrats on overcoming an others ham fisted attempt to ruin your oil pan. Well done!!!

 

The new oil drain plug is technically called a, "standard oversize plug". There are several numbers listed to repair other cars.

Of the cannister, best to wait until the motor cools off, for the cannister will be as hot as the motor, and you don't want to burn your hand.

From this forum, I will next replace front and rear brakes, then later replace the brake fluid. The rotors are within specs.

Again, thanks to each member,
JuanPablo

 

It took me two attempts and bloody lip to get new oil installed, but nobody said that DIY has to be pretty.

1.) The 36mm socket is important. Especially when the previous oil change was done by gorillas using 150lbs of force on a part that should be only slightly more than hand tightened.
2.) The filter cartridge can also be stuck pretty tight in the housing. If you elect to yank on the filter with pliers while the housing is clamped in a vise, try and keep your lip and face out of the way when the filter comes flying out.

Those are my humble tips... I'm not a paid professional at this, and I have the facial wounds to prove it.

 

The step by step instructions for the oil change are great, but I can't swee the pictures referred to. Have they been removed? my specific question is to see exactly which is the drain plug on the 2006 mini S. Any where else I can look?

Al

 

13mm "bolt with a washer", directly below the engine, center of car slightly toward passenger side, if I recall correctly. It goes into that big silvery aluminum ribbed thingy, right near that fan-like whatchamacallit.

Do be careful and perhaps have someone who knows the car help you with the first one.

(and no, I don't mean any of that to sound at all condescending, only trying to be helpful)

 

Thanks for the reply. I went out and found ithe plug underneath what I took to be an air duct for that little fan (what is that fan for, by the way?). I had not seen any mention of that duct in other posts... I just loosened three of the screws and swung it out of the way. Oil out filter out and back in, no big deal. I thought that the canister type filter was going to be an issue, but it really wasn't.
Thanks again for the help!
Al

 

I cant view the pictures for this DIY! Help please. Also, how often should you change your oil?

 

I have some pics from my 2005 R53 oil change here:

http://www.billswebspace.com/mcs.htm#R53OilChange

 

Thanks Bill!

You got alot of nice DIY info there too.

 

Thank you very much! I literally am waiting for the pan to stop dripping oil now. Your instructions are very helpful!