Great colour matching tip, although I'm not that fussie. I may revert back to the clear bulb as the orange bulb is not as bright as I'd like for my boost/vacuum gauge.

I still have not installed my oil pressure gauge in my custom dual bracket yet. I'll post pics once it's all complete.

Jeremy

 

My Dam vacum line keeps falling off the Fuel pressure regulator. Do you new 17% pulley...lol

 

QUESTION:

I need to fit the back of my gauge with a right-angle fitting - my hard line keeps kinking against the dash and blocking the function of my mechanical gauge. Problem isn't finding the part - I found them right HERE - it's the tiny ferrule inside the compression fitting.

When I installed the straight fitting, the compresison collar clamped that ferrule down hard onto the hard line. I might well be able to rip it free with pliers, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to get back onto a fresh section of the tubing, or if it will seal properly if I do. Does anyone know if just the ferrule is sold someplace? I'm imagining trying to explain what I need to a hardware store clerk, and even places like Autozone or Jeg's that are listed as an official dealer don't seem to have a part number for just the ferrule... Drat!

 

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...ALL&vTime=6423

Sholdn't be too difficult to find something at an auto parts store.

 

I just recently relocated the pressure gauge and, similar to your situation, the little ferrule was unusable. I just went to the place where I originally purchased the gauge (high performance auto parts store) and showed them what I was talking about. They called it a "bullet", and gave me a new one. The guy scanned it on the check out counter and told me it was $5.95 . He realized that it seemed absurd and he only charged me $1, which I still found absurd, but whatever. You shouldn't have any trouble finding it, just take it with you and show it to them.

 

Actually I emailed Autometer to ask them if they had a part number and they said they'd just mail me a new one. I love good merchants that support their stuff.

 

Hello, Mat here from the other side of the pond!

Firstly a quick thank you to DarkCooperS, great how to, I've read through all these pages 4 times now to get my head round all this! I thought if someone could answer these questions it may also help other people wanting to do this mod.

Basically I'm at the point where I am ordering the bits to fit a 2" 5/8 AM gauge to my Mini. I just need some points clarifying on what exactly I need. I've ordered the mount (ATM-3204) and the plastic T-piece. I'm waiting for the gauge to come in stock at my UK distributor.

1. I am going to detach the vacuum pipe from the Inlet manifold (rather than disconnecting it from the Fuel Pressure Regulator); This is what I'm talking about;



What I need to know is, on the pic you can see the black vacuum pipe, which goes into the grey adapter thingy, which then connects to the inlet manifold. Will that grey adapter thingy connect to the T-peice connector, or will I need another adapter? If so what adapter?

2. Secondly, I know I have to buy an additonal piece of vacuum tubing, this will go from the other side of the T-connector and will reconnect to the Inlet manifold. Question is, will vacuum tubing with an inside diameter of 4mm (5/32 I think) connect to both the T-connector and the inlet manifold?

The t peice I have bough is here (page 10) part # BY4.

http://www.realsteel.co.uk/

3. Lastly, you guys have routed the vacuum pipe through the gromit on what is your drivers side, over here thats our passenger side (obviously !), is there a way of routing the pipe through your passenger side (which is our drivers side).

Apologies for the waffle but I would be eternally greatful if anyone can help me out with all this!

Kind Regards,

Mat

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=101713

 

Ok guys/gals I've finally managed to take some pics of my custom gauge mounting solution. Here are a few pics.(hope the attachments work) I'd like to eventually find some flat black cap bolts to clamp the gauge pods but that's a minimal issue. Enjoy!

Jeremy

 

jhiggs26: Pop those brackets and hit 'em with a shot of Flat Black and you're golden! I know tilted gauges is a matter of taste but I'd straighten 'em up a bit while you're at it. Looks great though.

 

The bracket was made out of 1/16" aluminum with squared up straps that were riveted to the sheet aluminum and then everything was primed and finally painted flat black. I just need to flatten out the 2 glistening bolts! The tilt is required for now as I do not have 45 or 60 or 90 degree fittings on the tail side of the gauges. When gauges are horizontal there is too much stress on the nylon tubes hence the tilt. I'm getting used to the tilted look though.

Jeremy

 

Finally got around to taking some pics of my boost gauge w/ carbon fiber cup. I'm really pleased with the way it turned out. Also, as an alternative mounting solution I used industrial grade velcro. After about a month (with hot summer dash temps) I've had no problems from mounting it this way. Also, for power to light the gauge I tapped into the dash lights down in the cubby area of the center cluster.

There's some more pics in my gallery, including one of my "velco method." Enjoy!

 

Does anyone know what this part is called, or how I obtain it? I bought a gauge used and it did not come with the black hose piece, to make the transition from the small boost gauge to the T-fitting. Or does anyone else have any solutions to took it up to a T-fitting?



-Cody

 

Check out the Alta web site for their new gauges for the R53. The instructions show a much more accessable vacuum line to T into. The piece you are asking about is a simple part that I found at Autozone. I'm not sure of the technical name, but I would call it something like a "reduction fitting" or a vacuum line connector. One end is a bigger size to fit the t-fitting and the other end is smaller to fit the clear vacuum hose.

 

Hey guys, I need some help! I need to know what kind of screw (American or Metric), what length, and what diameter I need to fit through the mounting cup and into the tach. I don't want to thread a larger hole, so basically what I need is: the stock screw that screws into the tach, but in a longer version.

Thanks,
-Cody

 

I believe it's a metric thread; you can take the stock screw and head on over to Home Depot or Lowes - you're going to a hardware store anyway to buy the screw - they have a screw gauge that you can thread the screw into to determine the thread.

As for the hose adaptor to the "T" fitting, that's what car parts stores are for! They have multi-size nylon "T" fittings that can accept several hoses, or you can get adaptors there. I used vacuum hose to fit over the OD of the nylon gauge hose, then ran to an adaptor "T" fitting (basically a T with multiple decreasing diameters), ziptied the conections to prevent them blowing loose, and off to the races we went.

 

Thanks...looks like I'll be going to Home Depot today.

-Cody

 

Update: I still need help! I swear this project is a nightmare.

I thought it was going to be an easy install, well like my usual luck, nope! I started my pulling off the tach, and found out the hard way that I didn't have a screw to use to mount the cup unto the tach! Ahh!!! Well today I resumed my progress by finding a screw that worked, and went to town on the engine bits. Engine went decent, the interior is what hurt the most!

I got the gauge working fine, except for the fact that I cannot seem to find a wire to tap into, that comes on when the interior and headlights come on. I tried to follow ALTA's instructions for the DEFI gauges, by tapping into the one from the tach, but either that source is too small, or I got the wrong wire.

I want the gauge to light up when I turn the stalker to the first position, which turns on the interior lights. I also looked for the grey and pink wire in the harness, and couldn't find it for the life of me!

Someone please help me... the quickest and EASIEST wire to find would be the best. I'm by far the worst electrician.

-Cody

 

I tapped mine into the wire that illuminates toggle switches. I worse just like the rest of the dash lights, dimmer and all. I have a '05 with the OEM rubber tray thing in the cubby area under the toggles. First, I took this piece out (2 torx screws I think). Next, I found on the passenger side there is a bundle of wires wrapped in black cloth tape going to the toggles. Pull this out enough so you can remove some of the cloth tape (I removed enough to expose about 5 inches worth of wires). Be careful not to damage any of the wires, especially if you need to use a knife or scissors to remove the tape. Next, find the pink wire with the grey stripe. This should be pretty easy, although I remember thinking that the grey actually looks a bit purple. Cut the wire and connect into. The pink/grey wire doesn't have any slack in it, so you will need to add an extension to it using some comparable weigh wire from Lowes, Home Depot, Radio Shack, etc. When done, wrap the exposed wire with electrical tape.

Does this help? This is the same location that the OEM gauges tap into for illumination.

PS - It can also be a bit frustrating to get to a decent grounding location under the dash.

 

did u just use wire caps or did you actually solder it>?

 

Just used wire caps and a good amount of black electrical tape.

 

So I will be takeing on this project withen the next few days. Any insightful tips? Like how to pick the right wire for the light the first time . Any help would be awsome and a good conveniant grounding location.

 

I have my radar detector, my cell phone charger and my boost gauge ground under the knee bolster. There is a metal plate under there that I keep drilling holes in and grounding things to. I could have squeezed it under existing bolts but i was afraid of creaks and squeaks.

 

well i have it mounted and am runing wires. I would say it's gonna take me 3 more beers to finish this project. Pictures later

 

well i completed the project, not bad at all. I had my father whom is former NAVy electritian help me with the electrical.

But heres what baffled me.
I got everything back together and it wouldnt idle, so thinking that it was a boost leak i took the IC off and check the connection from the FPR to the tee. I got everything back together and started it up. Again it idled rough,.. but only for a moment. Now it's running fine. Any thoughts...

dan