Interior/Exterior Pulling off shift knob?
#76
There is always the hacksaw technique. Who needs the old shift ****?
Sawing around the base of the **** should separate the **** from the nylon flange that holds it. Just make sure you only saw through plastic. When you hit steel, Stop!
Sawing around the base of the **** should separate the **** from the nylon flange that holds it. Just make sure you only saw through plastic. When you hit steel, Stop!
Last edited by Robin Casady; 04-07-2008 at 12:25 PM. Reason: typo
#77
That's going to be my method. Thanks for the tip!
#78
Did he remove the entire console, in order to turn the boot inside-out?
The reason I ask is, a fellow at AMVIV told me that he was going to remove someone's console from his R56 while there, and that he would report back to me later about his success; I never saw him again.
The reason I ask is, a fellow at AMVIV told me that he was going to remove someone's console from his R56 while there, and that he would report back to me later about his success; I never saw him again.
Oh, and seriously, a hacksaw?? Wow...
#79
#80
Yes, 5 if you have the armrest. I have a write-up typed out that points out the steps and locations of the connections. There are two wiring harness that need to be unclipped. As soon as I process the pics, I'll post a link.
#82
If you want instructions on removing the console, see this:
http://www.robincasady.com/ShiftKnob...otInstall.html
http://www.robincasady.com/ShiftKnob...otInstall.html
#84
And runflat tires are worth what the dealer charges.
My point, which went over your head, is that the risk of damaging my seats, headliner, or pulling the shifter out of the linkage is not worth the value of the cheap plastic **** to ME. What it is worth to you is your business.
My point, which went over your head, is that the risk of damaging my seats, headliner, or pulling the shifter out of the linkage is not worth the value of the cheap plastic **** to ME. What it is worth to you is your business.
#85
Did he remove the entire console, in order to turn the boot inside-out?
The reason I ask is, a fellow at AMVIV told me that he was going to remove someone's console from his R56 while there, and that he would report back to me later about his success; I never saw him again.
The reason I ask is, a fellow at AMVIV told me that he was going to remove someone's console from his R56 while there, and that he would report back to me later about his success; I never saw him again.
Coincidentally, another person asked me at AMVIV if he could pop one of my ***** on his car, just to see how it looked.
He couldn't pull the stock **** off, so I offered to do it; unfortunately, I also had to admit defeat!
I understand your frustration now.
He couldn't pull the stock **** off, so I offered to do it; unfortunately, I also had to admit defeat!
I understand your frustration now.
#86
And runflat tires are worth what the dealer charges.
My point, which went over your head, is that the risk of damaging my seats, headliner, or pulling the shifter out of the linkage is not worth the value of the cheap plastic **** to ME. What it is worth to you is your business.
My point, which went over your head, is that the risk of damaging my seats, headliner, or pulling the shifter out of the linkage is not worth the value of the cheap plastic **** to ME. What it is worth to you is your business.
Wouldn't you risk the same damage getting the nylon flange off of the shifter, assuming it seperated from **** as suggested. I'm still not convinced of that because the two clips that hold the nylon to the **** would be above your cut line. But I admit that I could be wrong as well; I haven't needed to try it out. If it does separate, that would be the part that requires all the force to get off, as the clips that hold it to the shifter are at the top end. The two clips there are the only thing that holds the shift **** on, normally.
Good luck, whatever you choose to do!
Last edited by FortyTwo; 04-08-2008 at 08:11 PM.
#87
FWIW i removed my auto **** today. with a little help from CR&PW&JB that is.
i put the car in D sat in the passenger seat and opened the sunroof and leaned over towards the drivers seat. i turned the ebrake off the make sure i wouldn't kill myself on the handle. then with my head almost in the drivers seat so i wouldn;t bash my teeth in i grabbed and pulled the ****. there was a decent amount of resistance so i tried pulling and pushing the ****'s button in while pulling and it came right off. took all of 2 minutes.
i put the car in D sat in the passenger seat and opened the sunroof and leaned over towards the drivers seat. i turned the ebrake off the make sure i wouldn't kill myself on the handle. then with my head almost in the drivers seat so i wouldn;t bash my teeth in i grabbed and pulled the ****. there was a decent amount of resistance so i tried pulling and pushing the ****'s button in while pulling and it came right off. took all of 2 minutes.
#88
What happens to the little button you have to push to take it out of Park?
Does is stay on the shifter rod? Does it come off with the ****?
Having never done this before, that's what's confusing to me... if you just pull up, like everyone says to do with the manual shift *****, it seems that button would come with it.... but that button is obviously connected to something down below so it can do what it does.
That's where I'm confused... I'm scared if I just pull hard, I'll pull the button along with the ****, and break something.
I must be wrong if you were successful, right?
Thanks,
Goodwood (formerly Mark Loft)
Does is stay on the shifter rod? Does it come off with the ****?
Having never done this before, that's what's confusing to me... if you just pull up, like everyone says to do with the manual shift *****, it seems that button would come with it.... but that button is obviously connected to something down below so it can do what it does.
That's where I'm confused... I'm scared if I just pull hard, I'll pull the button along with the ****, and break something.
I must be wrong if you were successful, right?
Thanks,
Goodwood (formerly Mark Loft)
#89
yes, no worries when you pull it off you will realize the worry is for nothing. the button comes off with the ****. when you pull the **** out you will find that it is attached to a rod. the button controls that rod. when you have the **** in your hand out of the car you can depress the button and see the rod move. it is the rod that allows you to shift into R when the button is depressed. other than shifting into R the button has no function. of course you have to depress it to get out of park because the next position is R. after R you can freely move the stick to the other positions without the button depressed.
anyhow, yes the button does come out with the **** but, the rod holds the button in place so it can't go anywhere. refitting the **** is just as simple. you just slide it back on- the rod can only go one way in the shifter sleeve and push down until you hear it click into place. if you have the leather and chrome shift **** as i do it's a no brainer to tell which way it aligns- button toward the front of the car.
but, put the car in D to get a better angle on the shifter. if your **** has a tougher time coming off and you have it in P i think you could end up hitting the dash and possibly damaging it.
FWIW i did not replace the shifter ****. i was merely replacing the boot. i say merely . if you're replacing the boot be wary of the CHEAP plastic ring the boot hooks to. mine had deteriorated and snapped in one section and i was very careful while doing it. i could see it was already cracked when i was looking at it. i had to use some blue tack to rig it back together. hopefully i can find the ring seperately so far i can only find it with a replacement boot at a price of $71! not the biggest deal unless you're totally OCD... as i am.
also others have reported having a devil of a time getting the **** off. maybe just dumb luck for me or maybe the warmish weather here helps.
hope that helps others and to Mr. Casady in case he is exploring the possibility of a auto shifter. i would like one. and thanks to CR&PW&JB for pointing me in the right direction.
anyhow, yes the button does come out with the **** but, the rod holds the button in place so it can't go anywhere. refitting the **** is just as simple. you just slide it back on- the rod can only go one way in the shifter sleeve and push down until you hear it click into place. if you have the leather and chrome shift **** as i do it's a no brainer to tell which way it aligns- button toward the front of the car.
but, put the car in D to get a better angle on the shifter. if your **** has a tougher time coming off and you have it in P i think you could end up hitting the dash and possibly damaging it.
FWIW i did not replace the shifter ****. i was merely replacing the boot. i say merely . if you're replacing the boot be wary of the CHEAP plastic ring the boot hooks to. mine had deteriorated and snapped in one section and i was very careful while doing it. i could see it was already cracked when i was looking at it. i had to use some blue tack to rig it back together. hopefully i can find the ring seperately so far i can only find it with a replacement boot at a price of $71! not the biggest deal unless you're totally OCD... as i am.
also others have reported having a devil of a time getting the **** off. maybe just dumb luck for me or maybe the warmish weather here helps.
hope that helps others and to Mr. Casady in case he is exploring the possibility of a auto shifter. i would like one. and thanks to CR&PW&JB for pointing me in the right direction.
Last edited by whiteyanderson; 04-11-2008 at 08:31 AM.
#90
it all makes sense now... I didn't think about the little rod, I thought the button must be connected directly to something down in the bottom of the shifter mechanism.
I too need to work on the boot, not the ****... my boot pulled out from the plastic ring and I just need to get it back in place around the bottom.
thanks so much.
I too need to work on the boot, not the ****... my boot pulled out from the plastic ring and I just need to get it back in place around the bottom.
thanks so much.
#91
well, my boot was pulled off too and upon examining it, it was torn and nasty. so you may look into a replacement from redline. i got the shift and ebrake boot for $60 i believe. MUCH nicer quality than the OEM boot. still looks original- if you go with the same color but, much beefier in quality. they always have NAM discount codes in the vendor announcements.
be careful of that ring. cheap plastic.
be careful of that ring. cheap plastic.
#92
So, prying at location (2) released the **** from the shift boot, correct?
If I read your description right, you also had the shift lever dangling from the ****. Is that true? Or, did I misunderstand?
If the lever came away with the ****, how did you remove the **** from the lever?
Thanks,
If I read your description right, you also had the shift lever dangling from the ****. Is that true? Or, did I misunderstand?
If the lever came away with the ****, how did you remove the **** from the lever?
Thanks,
#93
mine actually worked out OK... once I got the shifter **** off the rest was easy... took the silver trim ring off and the lighted gear indicator, cleaned everything, then a little Armor All on the shifter boot.... put it back in place with some super glue and all is as good as new...
just had to figure out (or be told) how to get the **** off to get me going.
just had to figure out (or be told) how to get the **** off to get me going.
#94
You might try taking it to your dealer and telling them it came loose.
#95
My Story Has Changed!
I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the shift lever is press-fit in place. If the tolerances are a little on the loose side, perhaps the force required to remove the **** is greater than undoing the press fit.
You might try taking it to your dealer and telling them it came loose.
You might try taking it to your dealer and telling them it came loose.
As of this morning I suspect that actually is not what happened.
On my first try to pull hard on the **** I felt a release but since the **** did not separate from the boot and did not feel like it was off the rod, I immediately concluded, especially after reading the post by MCS07MGM, that the shift rod had moved and pulled out of the linkage. I immediately panicked, without carefully thinking about what was really going on so I quickly pushed down on the **** to reseat the assembly.
Thinking about it last night and early this morning I began to wonder whether it was really possible to release the rod from the linkage, especially after ready all the posts of guys who claimed they had to pull extremely hard. I tried again and got exactly the same result, only this time I stopped to observe whether the rod was loose or the **** was. Well, I could feel that the **** was free to slide on the rod, which was a relief. Then I tried to separate the **** from the boot by prying and also by trying to remove the boot ring by pulling from various locations underneath the ring, both to no avail. So I know now that I can free the **** from the rod, but I'll be damned if I know how to get it to separate from the boot.
#96
http://www.robincasady.com/ShiftKnobs/Installation.html
See the flange at the bottom of the white plastic on the shift ****? That is what is holding the boot to the ****. There is a ring in the top of the boot that the flange snaps into. If you can't pry them apart, you could try cutting the plastic with a fine saw, or something. Be careful not to cut the vinyl of the boot. If you do, you can get a replacement, or go with a leather boot from Redline.
#97
Look at the photos on my web site.
http://www.robincasady.com/ShiftKnobs/Installation.html
See the flange at the bottom of the white plastic on the shift ****? That is what is holding the boot to the ****. There is a ring in the top of the boot that the flange snaps into. If you can't pry them apart, you could try cutting the plastic with a fine saw, or something. Be careful not to cut the vinyl of the boot. If you do, you can get a replacement, or go with a leather boot from Redline.
http://www.robincasady.com/ShiftKnobs/Installation.html
See the flange at the bottom of the white plastic on the shift ****? That is what is holding the boot to the ****. There is a ring in the top of the boot that the flange snaps into. If you can't pry them apart, you could try cutting the plastic with a fine saw, or something. Be careful not to cut the vinyl of the boot. If you do, you can get a replacement, or go with a leather boot from Redline.
I stopped off at my dealer on the way home from work yesterday to see if one of the techs could help out. As I was explaining the problem to the SA a tech walking by overheard and offered assistance. We walked out to my car and he had the bottom boot ring off in about two seconds, just by prying underneath it with his fingers. When I got home I removed the **** and attached boot from the car and turned the boot inside out and used a small screwdriver to gently pry off the black plastic ring holding the boot to the ****. That was not difficult. There seemed to be some glue in the area but it released with no problem. The rest was a piece of cake. Thanks for all your suggestions.
#98
I stopped off at my dealer on the way home from work yesterday to see if one of the techs could help out. As I was explaining the problem to the SA a tech walking by overheard and offered assistance. We walked out to my car and he had the bottom boot ring off in about two seconds, just by prying underneath it with his fingers. When I got home I removed the **** and attached boot from the car and turned the boot inside out and used a small screwdriver to gently pry off the black plastic ring holding the boot to the ****. That was not difficult. There seemed to be some glue in the area but it released with no problem. The rest was a piece of cake. Thanks for all your suggestions.
#99
I stopped off at my dealer on the way home from work yesterday to see if one of the techs could help out. As I was explaining the problem to the SA a tech walking by overheard and offered assistance. We walked out to my car and he had the bottom boot ring off in about two seconds, just by prying underneath it with his fingers.
#100
So the tech loosened the circular ring at the bottom of the boot with his fingers? What may I ask holds that down and how did you reattach it afterwards? I think removing that ring and turning the boot inside out is the easiest way to get the boot free of the **** (I started this thread, that was a b*tch for me). I am also thinking of a different boot for mine and I'd like to know how to remove it easily and reattach it easily, 'cause I know it's not exactly made of titanium.