Interior/Exterior Rally lights finally installed
#1
08-03-2003 | 09:53 AM
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3rd Gear
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 233
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From: Miami, Florida
Got the euro Rally lights from minicooperparts installed on bloo yesterday and I'l like to pass on a few insights.
1. You don't need to take apart the center dash. Just fill the wires through from one side to the other with a coathanger or electrician's reel. Will save mucho time.
2. TYou don't need to take off the complete felt on the engine cover, just the three or four scrivets, enough to pull the wires thorugh.
3. On the MCS you don't have to cut the grill anywhere but you will need to drill through it to install the light stabilizers.
I do have a question. On my 2003 May built car there is no gadget to hang the Rally light fuse box. Its non existant althought the screw holes are there.
1. You don't need to take apart the center dash. Just fill the wires through from one side to the other with a coathanger or electrician's reel. Will save mucho time.
2. TYou don't need to take off the complete felt on the engine cover, just the three or four scrivets, enough to pull the wires thorugh.
3. On the MCS you don't have to cut the grill anywhere but you will need to drill through it to install the light stabilizers.
I do have a question. On my 2003 May built car there is no gadget to hang the Rally light fuse box. Its non existant althought the screw holes are there.
#2
08-03-2003 | 01:19 PM
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC USA
>>I do have a question. On my 2003 May built car there is no gadget to hang the Rally light fuse box. Its non existant althought the screw holes are there.<<
Mine's an Oct '02 build. While the cutoff valve is not there anymore, there were the two screws to mount it in place. If they've taken these screws out but left the mounting holes a hardware store ought to be able to solve your problem. The mounting bracket for the box should have been part of the kit.
Mine's an Oct '02 build. While the cutoff valve is not there anymore, there were the two screws to mount it in place. If they've taken these screws out but left the mounting holes a hardware store ought to be able to solve your problem. The mounting bracket for the box should have been part of the kit.
#3
08-03-2003 | 02:05 PM
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3rd Gear
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 233
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From: Miami, Florida
Thanx Moorlockx, May '03 build date. No cutoff valve, holes are there & will proceed to nearest hardware store :smile:
BTW, I was using the existing MCS grill Re: #3 above and there is no need to install switch on european wireing type. Also the dealer WILL need to hook your car up to the computer to tell it it has driving lights now. Probably another $50.
Oh, for the olde type automobiles, I miss you well. Actually, Mr. Lucas, I don't miss you at all.
BTW, I was using the existing MCS grill Re: #3 above and there is no need to install switch on european wireing type. Also the dealer WILL need to hook your car up to the computer to tell it it has driving lights now. Probably another $50.
Oh, for the olde type automobiles, I miss you well. Actually, Mr. Lucas, I don't miss you at all.
#4
08-03-2003 | 06:16 PM
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC USA
>>BTW, I was using the existing MCS grill Re: #3 above and there is no need to install switch on european wireing type. Also the dealer WILL need to hook your car up to the computer to tell it it has driving lights now. Probably another $50.<<
I went ahead and spliced a line in the wiring harness to add a switch into the system. I run the covers on my lights a lot of the times and didn't want them coming on unless the covers were off.
The screws will probably be metric, in case you haven't thought of this.
My dealer charged me $27.00 to activate the lights. It only takes about 10 minutes for the tech to do. I have heard of some folks on here getting hit up for up to $90 for this by some dealers!
I went ahead and spliced a line in the wiring harness to add a switch into the system. I run the covers on my lights a lot of the times and didn't want them coming on unless the covers were off.
The screws will probably be metric, in case you haven't thought of this.
My dealer charged me $27.00 to activate the lights. It only takes about 10 minutes for the tech to do. I have heard of some folks on here getting hit up for up to $90 for this by some dealers!
#5
08-04-2003 | 05:32 AM
Vendor - 15 Years
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,744
Likes: 31
From: Metro Detroit Area, Michigan
I also installed the Rally lights this weekend.
A long job, and a few parts of the directions are a bit unclear on what they want you to do (i.e. connecting 2 wires with a 5 wire clip to the bc1 mod.). But I finally got it. Mine also was missing the place to mount the fuse box. The holes were there, but no screws or other things. So I just got some screws to bolt it down. It worked fine in the end. But my lights work now. I would not think the car would have to be reprogrammed for them, but the computer does rule this car. The car was built in June 2003 so maybe that will help someone out there. Over all it worked out fine. I added the euro shelf so I didn't have to trim my dash, but I did find the switch has a poor fit in the cut out mini gives you. It’s too lose. So tonight I’ll aim them and add the stone protection so I do not have to have the caps on them all the time. I have not added the supports to the back of the lights yet and I might not. How many people have left these off? I thought many people have left these off, but most photos do not show them.
A long job, and a few parts of the directions are a bit unclear on what they want you to do (i.e. connecting 2 wires with a 5 wire clip to the bc1 mod.). But I finally got it. Mine also was missing the place to mount the fuse box. The holes were there, but no screws or other things. So I just got some screws to bolt it down. It worked fine in the end. But my lights work now. I would not think the car would have to be reprogrammed for them, but the computer does rule this car. The car was built in June 2003 so maybe that will help someone out there. Over all it worked out fine. I added the euro shelf so I didn't have to trim my dash, but I did find the switch has a poor fit in the cut out mini gives you. It’s too lose. So tonight I’ll aim them and add the stone protection so I do not have to have the caps on them all the time. I have not added the supports to the back of the lights yet and I might not. How many people have left these off? I thought many people have left these off, but most photos do not show them.
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#7
08-04-2003 | 06:23 AM
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
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#11
08-04-2003 | 08:46 AM
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
>>Woooahh AnnJones, your car is way shiny :smile:
>>
>>So now that the lights are on, how are they at night? They do go on, right?
No, not yet. I need to pick up enough wire to run from the lower fog connections (they will be disconnected) to the new fogs
I must admit, Iput these on mostly for the looks...
Ann
#12
08-06-2003 | 07:15 PM
5th Gear
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 872
Likes: 0
From: Reading, PA
I too have installed the EURO version of the Auxillary Rally lights two weekends ago. Got mine from MiniSpares.com (much cheaper than the US version, but does not come with a stand-bye switch).
Note: MoorLockX provided a lot of email tips and assistance, including where to get the Euro Version of the install directions (the US directions will make no sense to you if you have the Euro kit, they have different wiring harnesses).
Here are my hindsight observations:
1.) Give yourself plenty of daylight to do this. It will take some time to get this done. It took me 5 hours to get these installed.
2.) Be prepared to nearly sit with your legs in the air and your head on the drivers side floorboard in order to help get the harness situated through the grommet.
3.) No need to take out the passenger side seat. You can pull back the A pillar bottom sill enough to get at the BC1 module if you push the passenger seat all the way back first.
4.) You do NOT need to take apart the center column (as you do with the US kit). I taped the harness a bit and fed it up and over the space behind the radio. Be patient, this will take some practice.
5.) For the part where you have to thread the wiring harness through the grommet into the engine compartment. I pushed a screw driver through the rubber grommet (from engine compartment to interior of car). I then tapped the wires to the screwdriver and simply pulled the screwdriver (and wires) back out and , wham! your wiring harness is through the grommet.
6.) Be sure to use the included wire ties and keep the harness away from the steering column!
7.) I too did not have the switch off valve described in the direction. Had the holes but no screws either (Jan '03 build). I used the bolt located in that general area to hold the fuse box mounter until I can get my lazy but to the hardware store for some bolts to fit the other holes.
8.) You can thread the wires to the lights under the fire shield on the bonnet with only taking a few "screws" out. I think I took only one out.
9.) I used #8 bolts and locking nuts to secure the lights instead of pop-rivets. These suckers aren't moving anytime soon.
10.) The Euro kit does need to be activated by the dealer (the US version does not). This is because you are adding a new wire to the control module and it needs to know what that wire is. My dealer in Pittsburgh, PA nailed me for $40 to do this.
11.) If you have Xenons, be sure to change out the dampeners on the bonnet (black strut like looking things) to the re-inforced ones (part number in the Euro Directions, you will need two of these). These are needed to help support the extra weight on the hood (Xenons + Aux Lights = heavy). Takes literally all of 60 seconds to change both dampeners.
12.) The Euro kit does not include the light covers. Can be easily ordered from Classic Mini or your favorite local dealer.
13.) You will probably have to aim the lights once activated. Instructions for this are included in the Euro Directions. These puppies are bright (especially with xenons).
Feel free to ask any questions about the install. Everyone here is willing to help!
Here is the before/after on my PW/B.....
Note: MoorLockX provided a lot of email tips and assistance, including where to get the Euro Version of the install directions (the US directions will make no sense to you if you have the Euro kit, they have different wiring harnesses).
Here are my hindsight observations:
1.) Give yourself plenty of daylight to do this. It will take some time to get this done. It took me 5 hours to get these installed.
2.) Be prepared to nearly sit with your legs in the air and your head on the drivers side floorboard in order to help get the harness situated through the grommet.
3.) No need to take out the passenger side seat. You can pull back the A pillar bottom sill enough to get at the BC1 module if you push the passenger seat all the way back first.
4.) You do NOT need to take apart the center column (as you do with the US kit). I taped the harness a bit and fed it up and over the space behind the radio. Be patient, this will take some practice.
5.) For the part where you have to thread the wiring harness through the grommet into the engine compartment. I pushed a screw driver through the rubber grommet (from engine compartment to interior of car). I then tapped the wires to the screwdriver and simply pulled the screwdriver (and wires) back out and , wham! your wiring harness is through the grommet.
6.) Be sure to use the included wire ties and keep the harness away from the steering column!
7.) I too did not have the switch off valve described in the direction. Had the holes but no screws either (Jan '03 build). I used the bolt located in that general area to hold the fuse box mounter until I can get my lazy but to the hardware store for some bolts to fit the other holes.
8.) You can thread the wires to the lights under the fire shield on the bonnet with only taking a few "screws" out. I think I took only one out.
9.) I used #8 bolts and locking nuts to secure the lights instead of pop-rivets. These suckers aren't moving anytime soon.
10.) The Euro kit does need to be activated by the dealer (the US version does not). This is because you are adding a new wire to the control module and it needs to know what that wire is. My dealer in Pittsburgh, PA nailed me for $40 to do this.
11.) If you have Xenons, be sure to change out the dampeners on the bonnet (black strut like looking things) to the re-inforced ones (part number in the Euro Directions, you will need two of these). These are needed to help support the extra weight on the hood (Xenons + Aux Lights = heavy). Takes literally all of 60 seconds to change both dampeners.
12.) The Euro kit does not include the light covers. Can be easily ordered from Classic Mini or your favorite local dealer.
13.) You will probably have to aim the lights once activated. Instructions for this are included in the Euro Directions. These puppies are bright (especially with xenons).
Feel free to ask any questions about the install. Everyone here is willing to help!
Here is the before/after on my PW/B.....
#14
08-08-2003 | 08:10 PM
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
#15
08-08-2003 | 10:02 PM
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC USA
Driving_Hamster - Glad to be of service and I hope it made the job a little easier than what I went through discovering all these little tricks for the first time! 
Chad123 - the euro style lights need the activation, the ones you did, don't..... and you get the switch, too! I had to add mine after doing a little extra wiring.
AnnJones - Marchal's a great lights! You'll get many years of use out of them. Just remember to aim them down a little if you're going to actually use them in fog.
I'll share a little working knowlege and general information for all who may not know or realize the difference in lighting.....It's best to mount the fogs as low as possible and the driving beams as high as possible for optimum performance out of the lights. Fogs put out a short, flat, wide beam to shine under the mist and put light on the road without creating too much flashback glare for the driver. Thus, they go low. Driving or spot beams are made to reach out a long distance, so higher is better. This serves a twofold purpose. One, the higher they are, the farther they'll reach and two, the lower they mount, the more they'll create shadows on the road from the surfaces' unevenness. This can get to be very disconcerting at speed. For a quick graphic demonstration, lay out a piece of cloth on the floor that's wrinkled a bit. Turn out the lights and shine a flashlight horizontally across the cloth about 6 inches in height. Decrease the height while still keeping it horizontal. You'll see the shadows created by the wrinkles intensify the lower the light gets.
'lectricbloo - they are French... all the really great lights are! The French might not be world leaders in a lot of things, but they sure understand lights and optics! I'm working on reinforcing the brackets to try to not use the stabilizers.
Chad123 - the euro style lights need the activation, the ones you did, don't..... and you get the switch, too! I had to add mine after doing a little extra wiring.
AnnJones - Marchal's a great lights! You'll get many years of use out of them. Just remember to aim them down a little if you're going to actually use them in fog.
I'll share a little working knowlege and general information for all who may not know or realize the difference in lighting.....It's best to mount the fogs as low as possible and the driving beams as high as possible for optimum performance out of the lights. Fogs put out a short, flat, wide beam to shine under the mist and put light on the road without creating too much flashback glare for the driver. Thus, they go low. Driving or spot beams are made to reach out a long distance, so higher is better. This serves a twofold purpose. One, the higher they are, the farther they'll reach and two, the lower they mount, the more they'll create shadows on the road from the surfaces' unevenness. This can get to be very disconcerting at speed. For a quick graphic demonstration, lay out a piece of cloth on the floor that's wrinkled a bit. Turn out the lights and shine a flashlight horizontally across the cloth about 6 inches in height. Decrease the height while still keeping it horizontal. You'll see the shadows created by the wrinkles intensify the lower the light gets.
'lectricbloo - they are French... all the really great lights are! The French might not be world leaders in a lot of things, but they sure understand lights and optics! I'm working on reinforcing the brackets to try to not use the stabilizers.
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