Interior/Exterior Matching factory gauges
#351
New gauge faces. Let me know what you think. I believe the oil temp range is not high enough, but let me know. If that's the case, they will cost more because Marshall will have to buy more expensive sending units and redesign the gauge. I will also have to commit to buy more, and, since only about a quarter of the people who expressed interest in these gauges have actually bought any, I would have to take deposits for the new ones.
#352
The Marshall oil pressure sender is a bit bigger and heavier than I imagined. No big deal per se, but I'm wondering about all of that sender mass hanging off the side of the tapless adapter and the stress it puts completely on the adapter's 3/8 NPT threads at the base of the oil filter.
I guess the tapless adapter is beefy enough to deal with the stress?
OBTW, the Oil Temp and Voltmeter gauge faces look great to me Steve. Can't speak to the temp range.
I guess the tapless adapter is beefy enough to deal with the stress?
OBTW, the Oil Temp and Voltmeter gauge faces look great to me Steve. Can't speak to the temp range.
#353
Steve,
I think the oil temp gauge should go up to at least 300 degrees. People that track their cars without oil coolers can easily hit 280+. Their current SCX gauge goes up to 300. http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/5435.cfm Although that's probably not the stepper version. Are there different senders for the different versions?
I think the oil temp gauge should go up to at least 300 degrees. People that track their cars without oil coolers can easily hit 280+. Their current SCX gauge goes up to 300. http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/5435.cfm Although that's probably not the stepper version. Are there different senders for the different versions?
#354
Steve,
I think the oil temp gauge should go up to at least 300 degrees. People that track their cars without oil coolers can easily hit 280+. Their current SCX gauge goes up to 300. http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/5435.cfm Although that's probably not the stepper version. Are there different senders for the different versions?
I think the oil temp gauge should go up to at least 300 degrees. People that track their cars without oil coolers can easily hit 280+. Their current SCX gauge goes up to 300. http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/5435.cfm Although that's probably not the stepper version. Are there different senders for the different versions?
#355
Steve
#356
The Marshall oil pressure sender is a bit bigger and heavier than I imagined. No big deal per se, but I'm wondering about all of that sender mass hanging off the side of the tapless adapter and the stress it puts completely on the adapter's 3/8 NPT threads at the base of the oil filter.
I guess the tapless adapter is beefy enough to deal with the stress?
OBTW, the Oil Temp and Voltmeter gauge faces look great to me Steve. Can't speak to the temp range.
I guess the tapless adapter is beefy enough to deal with the stress?
OBTW, the Oil Temp and Voltmeter gauge faces look great to me Steve. Can't speak to the temp range.
#358
#359
#361
#362
6th Gear
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When you install the gauges I would use the following three web sites for information as they will help you out, keep in mind that some of the products are slightly different so your going to have to apply some knowledge to the installation as you go about this project,
http://www.m7tuning.com/techinfo/ins...se-coupler.pdf
http://www.cravenspeed.com/index.php?categoryID=7
http://www.altaperformance.com/
Between the three of them you can see how they installed the water temp adapter, the boost pick up and the frame and cups on the tach. For the wire hook up for the stepper follow the instructions as I did not install the stepper but rather opted for the non stepper electrical gauge instead. Alta has a good write up on the web site for the gauge installation of wire routing the windshield wiper blade removal and installation is a little tricky just make sure you mark where your blades are prior to removing them it makes reinstallation easier. This is not a project your going to finish in one hour so when you start work on it I would recommend that it be with a weekend ahead of you. As for wiring on the gauges I did not hook up the white light as it drowns out the amber light. Some people might choose to have a switch that would allow them to go from white during the day to amber at night however I did not go this direction. For hook up use a meter and check your voltage prior to starting then once you get the front cover in front of the window over your battery is off and your ready to start routing your wires disconnect the battery until your connections are made. Lots of information is available on the WEB or more specifically on NAM as you go forward on this project. Look at your information then use what you like from each of the sites you go to. If it is something you would rather not tackle (I can understand as SRTech did my install) then contact SRTech and see about getting them installed at AMVIV 7 as Custom Mini Shop goes every year as a vendor.
http://www.m7tuning.com/techinfo/ins...se-coupler.pdf
http://www.cravenspeed.com/index.php?categoryID=7
http://www.altaperformance.com/
Between the three of them you can see how they installed the water temp adapter, the boost pick up and the frame and cups on the tach. For the wire hook up for the stepper follow the instructions as I did not install the stepper but rather opted for the non stepper electrical gauge instead. Alta has a good write up on the web site for the gauge installation of wire routing the windshield wiper blade removal and installation is a little tricky just make sure you mark where your blades are prior to removing them it makes reinstallation easier. This is not a project your going to finish in one hour so when you start work on it I would recommend that it be with a weekend ahead of you. As for wiring on the gauges I did not hook up the white light as it drowns out the amber light. Some people might choose to have a switch that would allow them to go from white during the day to amber at night however I did not go this direction. For hook up use a meter and check your voltage prior to starting then once you get the front cover in front of the window over your battery is off and your ready to start routing your wires disconnect the battery until your connections are made. Lots of information is available on the WEB or more specifically on NAM as you go forward on this project. Look at your information then use what you like from each of the sites you go to. If it is something you would rather not tackle (I can understand as SRTech did my install) then contact SRTech and see about getting them installed at AMVIV 7 as Custom Mini Shop goes every year as a vendor.
#364
#365
Lighting Wiring
Any chance on getting a definitive word from someone on the gauge lighting? There seems to be a split opinion in this thread as to whether the white and amber lighting is an either/or option from Marshall (with amber matching the OEM MINI gauges), or whether both lights are required to be connected simultaneously to match the OEM look.
The white wire is for white light at night. You most likely will not want this so just cut and seal the white lighting wire. You do not need to connect the white wire if all you want is amber light.
#366
#367
For amber lighting at night connect the orange wire to your 12V dash lighting circuit so that the gauge amber lighting turns on when you turn on your dash lighting/headlights.
The white wire is for white light at night. You most likely will not want this so just cut and seal the white lighting wire. You do not need to connect the white wire if all you want is amber light.
The white wire is for white light at night. You most likely will not want this so just cut and seal the white lighting wire. You do not need to connect the white wire if all you want is amber light.
#370
#373
Steve
#374
#375