Today I was poking around the yo-yo chronicles and the thread reminded me about zip tying the BPV shut. I've always thought I had a slight problem with my stock BPV. Between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle, it almost feels like the boost is stuck. As soon as I push slightly past that 3/4 mark, the boost jumps all the way up. I don't have a boost gauge but that's what it feels like. Essentially, the throttle feels more like an on off switch. Now after being reminded about the zip tie, I thought I would go out and give it a try. After playing around with different throttle positions, I noticed a huge difference in response. There was no more "lag." The throttle was definitely more progressive. I could roll on to the throttle in second and feel the boost slowly slowly grow. Instead of the "wait for it, wait for it, ok here's the boost." Giving the car 1/4 throttle felt much crisper. The car was more eager to go. Now maybe this was because i was basically on full boost all the time? I'm not sure. But my questions are: Has the spring in my BPV gone bad? And would installing a Detroit Tuned BPV solve this issue for me?

 

Wow. I just posted this in the interior/exterior section. Could a moderator move this to the drivetrain section please? I don't know how that even happened

 

Yeah, the fact that it improved when you zip tied it definitely suggest a bad BPV.

 

The BPV seems to be a pretty common point of failure on the R53. That and the power steering... UGH.

Anyway, I didnt know I had a problem, really. I just saw it as a cheaper part that seemed like a challenge to install back when I got my MINI. It did make a substantial difference right off the bat, and if you think your BPV is at all running funky I reccomend it. As was previously stated, the idea that a zip tie (despite being up there with duct tape and the wheel as a great invention of mankind) would make a notable difference, seems to make the point all by itself. I don't know what your technical aptitude is, and now knowing what I do about dissassembling my mini my impression might not be as accurate; but I do recall it being a PITA to put in, not so much because it was difficult, but time consuming -- and I think it was about 192 degrees that day.

It comes with a ECU reset of sorts that you have to do through the trip button on the speedo... My car just took a dump after I finished the install until I followed those instructions, just so you know. Good luck, if I can help PM me.

 

Thanks a lot. So what your saying is a new BPV is well worth the money? Besides the fact it's a pita to install. I guess I might as well change it out now. The OEM one will fail eventually I'm assuming.

 

Not only will it fail, but I dare say it has already begun to do so, and without actually feeling it, could have well crashed and burned already. If I recall, I removed the intercooler, which was cool because I had purchased an Alta air diverter, which came with the silicone "boots," so I took occasion to put them on as well. Additionally, the intake had to come out... at least the hose. and I believe the driver's side "air-horn," (the intercooler duct) came off as well. Now, all that said, it was one of the first things I did, and to do it all over again, I might do it differently, but I just cant remember for certain.

All that acknowledged, I think I did it with a good set of deep-well metric sockets, a socket wrench with 6 or 8" extension, a couple zip ties and a screw driver.

Again, PM me if you need any help at all, and if you choose a day to do it I can give you my phone number in case of emergency. If i were in rochester, I'd offer to help

 

It really takes all of that work? The Detroit Tuned website says it takes about an hour. Who knows. But I appreciate your help. I'll make sure to send you a pm if i have any questions.

By the way, can a moderator move this thread for me?

 

It isnt as much work as it sounds like. The IC comes off real easy, you can have that off in around 10 minutes I bet, after that it can jut be annoying because some of the things are a little hard to get to.

 

Does the gasket for the intercooler horn have to be replaced when you do this? I think my bpv is dying. Lately the boost seems lack luster. It was running fine before an autocross on sunday. Maybe 6 runs and 10 fun runs was too much for the bpv.

 

I have zero recollection of messing with a gasket at all. I would say no, but truth be told, I'm not 100% positive.

 

I'm not completely sure what piece you're talking about. But since the DT website doesn't mention it, I doubt you need to. I've never heard about doing that anyway. But yea I feel you. I punched it in third today. The boost came on about two seconds after my foot hit the floor . At least that confirms my original question.

 

Well, the diagrams on realoem show a gasket between the intercooler horn and the intake manifold. I was under the impression that the horn had to come off to access the bpv, and we all know how gaskets should never be reused.

 

Alright I see what you're talking about now. Kind of looks like an o-ring? I honestly never knew that part existed, so i have no idea. Hopefully someone who's done this before can tell us.

 

Again, can this thread be moved please? I just want a few more opinions on this before I go ahead and buy a new bpv. Thanks.

 

I just read a bit of the Bentley Manual, something I should have done earlier, and it seems that the O-ring between the BPV and intercooler output air duct, as well as the gasket between that duct and the intake manifold do not need to be replaced.

Not that this maters, but the gasket between the s/c output air duct and the s/c needs to be replaced if you remove this duct.

 

Ok great. That answers my last question then. Thanks for your help. I'll order my dt bpv today

 

Just curious, but how did your install go and how much of a difference was there? I to am looking into buying the DT BPV.

 

the install was pretty easy. i think there was one bolt on the throttle body that was tough to clear across another part to get it off or something like that, dont remember really. but it isnt too hard to get it apart. it adds 1psi so its good for numbers ;p i can say i get 17psi instead of 16psi haha. also if you feel the difference between the spring pressure with your finger its amazing. the DT BPV is so strong the boost comes in way quicker and instant instead of smoother and slower.

 

I guess I might have to invest in the DT BPV. Right after the cai and the pulley.

 

yes you def should!

 

sorry to join the party late...

here are some things that help...

One of the biggest hasseles here is that the studs that hold the IC exit horn to the intake are studs, not bolts. I used some red loc-tite to turn them into bolts. Then you can undo them and not have to pull so hard to get the horn to clear the studs when you take it off.

The gasket can be re-used.

Get some hose clamps, as re-using the factory ones is a bit of a pain.

The job is easier if you put the front radiator support in "service mode".

The DT valve has two things that are different: the attention to detail in setting the stop, and the spring. The attention to detail can be done with the stock unit as well, but you should use some heat to loosen the thread lock on the stop spring.

now the spring used is much stiffer. This gets a more "binary" action to the unit, all on or all off. Some love this, some don't. I found it hard to do light throttle modulation in long sweepers so I just modded my own stock spring.

Anyway, lots love the DT BPV, lots find it isn't for them. It's more a driving style and feel thing.

Hope this helps.

Matt