Interior/Exterior M7 aero front grilles/PIAA 1500 driving lights
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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M7 aero front grilles/PIAA 1500 driving lights
Finally got around to doing this project. I can't really add that much to other comments/suggestions made about installing the M7 grilles. Download the instructions from M7 or Grillcraft. Removing the bumper is straightforward - the 8mm hexhead screw accessed from inside the wheelwell is a bit of a pain to remove with the wheels on, but doable. Then remove the phillips head screw from the wheelwell lip. On the R53 aero bumper, there is a 10mm bolt that needs to be removed from the center of the bumper bottom - remove the 4 nylon push rivets holding the bottom lip to its backing. Finally unbolt the 2 T30 torx bolts and the bumper will be hanging on with just the tabs on top holding it in place. Carefully pull the bumper forward and hold while resting it on the ground. Pull out the side light wires and undo the 2 pinch connectors for the fog lights. Finally, snip off the zip tie holding the temp sensor to the grille.
The grilles fit very well. Follow the instructions for the upper and lower grilles, which are straightforward to install. I cut the section under the middle grill to allow more air through and for a cleaner look. I wasn't very precise cutting, but once you paint the remaining "flange" you can't see that my cut wasn't very purty. I recommend cutting about a quarter-inch from the edge on the top, and an eighth or so from the stock slots (which you'll still use to attach the new grille). You also have to drill a hole in the center bottom to accommodate where the M7 grill has an attachment prong.
For a clean look, mask off the areas under the 3 grills that will be showing through and paint flat black.
I attached the PIAA lights to the underside of the bumper carrier (the actual metal "bumper"). Randy from M7 helped me figure out where to place the lights since the curvature of the bumper doesn't allow you to space them the same as the stockers above the bumper as they will be too close to the radiator. Centerline of the lights are 14.5 inches apart. You have to drill just at the point where the bottom part of the bumper carrier starts to turn into a convex curve headed toward the engine compartment. (Yes, I should have taken pictures). Even then, you are almost rubbing the grille using the mounting holes on the bracket that will push the lights back the furthest. If you need a little more space, you can probably file the mounting holes, but you'll only gain maybe a quarter inch, tops.
Finally, reinstall the bumper and reattach the temp probe with a zip tie. It's a bit of a 3-handed job to do, but you can manage using stuff to prop up the bumper while you attach the probe.
Here are pictures of the stock look and the finished project. Happy to answer any questions you have about it.
The grilles fit very well. Follow the instructions for the upper and lower grilles, which are straightforward to install. I cut the section under the middle grill to allow more air through and for a cleaner look. I wasn't very precise cutting, but once you paint the remaining "flange" you can't see that my cut wasn't very purty. I recommend cutting about a quarter-inch from the edge on the top, and an eighth or so from the stock slots (which you'll still use to attach the new grille). You also have to drill a hole in the center bottom to accommodate where the M7 grill has an attachment prong.
For a clean look, mask off the areas under the 3 grills that will be showing through and paint flat black.
I attached the PIAA lights to the underside of the bumper carrier (the actual metal "bumper"). Randy from M7 helped me figure out where to place the lights since the curvature of the bumper doesn't allow you to space them the same as the stockers above the bumper as they will be too close to the radiator. Centerline of the lights are 14.5 inches apart. You have to drill just at the point where the bottom part of the bumper carrier starts to turn into a convex curve headed toward the engine compartment. (Yes, I should have taken pictures). Even then, you are almost rubbing the grille using the mounting holes on the bracket that will push the lights back the furthest. If you need a little more space, you can probably file the mounting holes, but you'll only gain maybe a quarter inch, tops.
Finally, reinstall the bumper and reattach the temp probe with a zip tie. It's a bit of a 3-handed job to do, but you can manage using stuff to prop up the bumper while you attach the probe.
Here are pictures of the stock look and the finished project. Happy to answer any questions you have about it.
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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Thanks for the kind words, all. Credit for the look really goes to Randy at M7 from whom I "borrowed" the idea. There's another person on the forum who did a similar thing, but used round lights behind the grille (and put grilles on the fog lights, too). Lots of nice looking mods out there if you have the time to troll...
Here's the problem for my next mod, though. I was on vacation in Newport, RI and saw one of the original Minis in gorgeous condition in a town nearby. Now I want one of those, too. Think I can convince my wife to sell her M-B convertible to make room in the garage?
Glen
Here's the problem for my next mod, though. I was on vacation in Newport, RI and saw one of the original Minis in gorgeous condition in a town nearby. Now I want one of those, too. Think I can convince my wife to sell her M-B convertible to make room in the garage?
Glen
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