Interior/Exterior Rear lights...
#76
>>Okay you people wanting a step-by-step demo...
>>
>>This is the Mickey-Mouse way of doing it, with a paperclip and tape. >>-----------
>>1. This is how your Cooper/S looks now. Plain ol' lights. (I know, I was too lazy to press the brake pedal in this pic... just the running lights, but you get the idea.)
Do not I repeat DO NOT do this Mod this way!!!!! This is absolutly the wrong way to do it. This will cause problems down the road and could short out the entire harness. I did mine last night ad found a much simpler,safe and the right way to do it. Do not use the wire nut way either. This will work but is not really needed. Your adding a wire that you do not need. Use a wire bridge. It is a small tube with metal inside it. I will post a picture ASAP. Cut #1 and #4 wires. The top two twist together and do the same for the bottom. Insert the top one into the tude and crimp down to secure. Repeat the same for the bottom. Re-insert the connector into the slot and turn on key ,press the break and that's it. The right and safe way to this mod.I have an electrical background and this is the right way to do this.
>>-----------
>>2. Open up the rear decklid and peek inside the boot. On either side you should see a little compartment. Press on the two tabs on the top of the compartment, and remove the panel. You should see wires... like this...
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>>3. Reach your hand inside back towards the taillight and feel around for a rectangular wiring harness. A bit hard to find at first, but once you find it, press the tab underneath and pull it out. It looks like the picture below. I have the two wire ports that you need labelled, #1 and #4.
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>>4. Now, find a paperclip, or a peice of wire, or something long, thin, and made of metal, bend it into a sort of "U" shape.
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>>5. Now, jam each end into the harness as pictured. One in slot 1, the other in slot 4. Be sure to get it in there as tight as possible so it does not shake out while driving. This is the exact reason why I am going to actually splice the wires later on.
>>
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>>6. Now, find some electrical tape and wrap it around your new little Mickey Mouse'd hunkajunk version of electronic magistry. Be sure to stick some to the smooth part of the harness as well, in hopes of keeping the wire in place (obviously, don't put tape over the clip for the harness, as you won't be able to plug it back in. Duh.)
>>
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>>7. Now, put your key in the ignition and turn it to the first click (brake lights won't work with the ignition off. You also get to listen to the radio while you work when you do this, yay Paul Simon!) Find something to weigh down the pedal, be it a brick, a branch, or as I did, a tennis racquet jammed between the seat and the pedal! Dream of Anna Kournikova while doing this. Just not too much. Especially if you're married. Ehe.
>>
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>>8. Now, close everything up, make sure its sealed, clean up, and marvel at your new double brake lights! It really does look nice, MINI should just have them set up this way standard.
>>
>>------------
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>>Now my next question... what about that third little facet in the headlights...?
>>
>>_________________
>>President, <a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MiniOK...ot;>MiniOKI of NE Ohio</a> <P> '02 IB/W MC. Coming soon: '03 IB/IB MCS <p> <img src="http://jeepaddict.home.mindspring.com/s.jpg">
_________________
Electric Blue "S" Black Roof w/Blue Flames and Black Caps....Prem/Sport Packages...
Black Bonnett ...17's.. Lapis Blue Leather... One Bad Lookin MINI
>>
>>This is the Mickey-Mouse way of doing it, with a paperclip and tape. >>-----------
>>1. This is how your Cooper/S looks now. Plain ol' lights. (I know, I was too lazy to press the brake pedal in this pic... just the running lights, but you get the idea.)
Do not I repeat DO NOT do this Mod this way!!!!! This is absolutly the wrong way to do it. This will cause problems down the road and could short out the entire harness. I did mine last night ad found a much simpler,safe and the right way to do it. Do not use the wire nut way either. This will work but is not really needed. Your adding a wire that you do not need. Use a wire bridge. It is a small tube with metal inside it. I will post a picture ASAP. Cut #1 and #4 wires. The top two twist together and do the same for the bottom. Insert the top one into the tude and crimp down to secure. Repeat the same for the bottom. Re-insert the connector into the slot and turn on key ,press the break and that's it. The right and safe way to this mod.I have an electrical background and this is the right way to do this.
>>-----------
>>2. Open up the rear decklid and peek inside the boot. On either side you should see a little compartment. Press on the two tabs on the top of the compartment, and remove the panel. You should see wires... like this...
>>
>>-----------
>>3. Reach your hand inside back towards the taillight and feel around for a rectangular wiring harness. A bit hard to find at first, but once you find it, press the tab underneath and pull it out. It looks like the picture below. I have the two wire ports that you need labelled, #1 and #4.
>>
>>-----------
>>4. Now, find a paperclip, or a peice of wire, or something long, thin, and made of metal, bend it into a sort of "U" shape.
>>
>>-----------
>>5. Now, jam each end into the harness as pictured. One in slot 1, the other in slot 4. Be sure to get it in there as tight as possible so it does not shake out while driving. This is the exact reason why I am going to actually splice the wires later on.
>>
>>-----------
>>6. Now, find some electrical tape and wrap it around your new little Mickey Mouse'd hunkajunk version of electronic magistry. Be sure to stick some to the smooth part of the harness as well, in hopes of keeping the wire in place (obviously, don't put tape over the clip for the harness, as you won't be able to plug it back in. Duh.)
>>
>>-----------
>>7. Now, put your key in the ignition and turn it to the first click (brake lights won't work with the ignition off. You also get to listen to the radio while you work when you do this, yay Paul Simon!) Find something to weigh down the pedal, be it a brick, a branch, or as I did, a tennis racquet jammed between the seat and the pedal! Dream of Anna Kournikova while doing this. Just not too much. Especially if you're married. Ehe.
>>
>>------------
>>8. Now, close everything up, make sure its sealed, clean up, and marvel at your new double brake lights! It really does look nice, MINI should just have them set up this way standard.
>>
>>------------
>>
>>Now my next question... what about that third little facet in the headlights...?
>>
>>_________________
>>President, <a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MiniOK...ot;>MiniOKI of NE Ohio</a> <P> '02 IB/W MC. Coming soon: '03 IB/IB MCS <p> <img src="http://jeepaddict.home.mindspring.com/s.jpg">
_________________
Electric Blue "S" Black Roof w/Blue Flames and Black Caps....Prem/Sport Packages...
Black Bonnett ...17's.. Lapis Blue Leather... One Bad Lookin MINI
#78
I've had my paper clip mod in for about 5 months now. I've even had the dealer check it to (A) see how I did it and (B) make sure it was totally sound. It's also great if you don't want to do something permenant to your MINI. And believe me - it's totally secure if done properly. Oh and it takes about 60 seconds for each side.
>>We need pictures of the right way to do it. I do agree that a paper clip is a hack. Please post pictures of #1 and #4 wires and etc.
>>We need pictures of the right way to do it. I do agree that a paper clip is a hack. Please post pictures of #1 and #4 wires and etc.
#79
>>Last week I couldn't spell enjinneer, now i are wun.
>>
>>Don't mess around with paper clips or tape, do it like this if you want a trouble free job...Just did mine, it took less than 1/2 hour. I did NO cutting or use of wire nuts or tape.
>>
>>If you take the little white plastic clip off the connector, you can then take the no. 1 wire out by using a little pressure on the silver metal connector end, (use a fine knife point). There is a small metal collar which you can pry open with your thumb nail. Next get a 2'' piece of plastic coated wire, strip 1/4'' off each end exposing the wire, slip one end of stripped wire under the small metal collar and crimp closed with pliers. Push the no.1 wire back in the connector and take out the no. 4 wire and go through the same procedure, connecting the other end of your stripped 2'' wire. Push the no. 4 wire back into the connector, replace the white plastic clip and reconnect the modified connector. Do the same thing to the other light assembly. You'll have a very clean job with all your wires left as original. It's totally reversible with no damage to original parts. Use fine wire for your 2'' jumper. Ron.
>>
Had to come back to your post since I remembered your method being the cleanest sounding. You were right! Thanks to everyone who gave input and advice - any more mods out there as simple as this one??
>>
>>Don't mess around with paper clips or tape, do it like this if you want a trouble free job...Just did mine, it took less than 1/2 hour. I did NO cutting or use of wire nuts or tape.
>>
>>If you take the little white plastic clip off the connector, you can then take the no. 1 wire out by using a little pressure on the silver metal connector end, (use a fine knife point). There is a small metal collar which you can pry open with your thumb nail. Next get a 2'' piece of plastic coated wire, strip 1/4'' off each end exposing the wire, slip one end of stripped wire under the small metal collar and crimp closed with pliers. Push the no.1 wire back in the connector and take out the no. 4 wire and go through the same procedure, connecting the other end of your stripped 2'' wire. Push the no. 4 wire back into the connector, replace the white plastic clip and reconnect the modified connector. Do the same thing to the other light assembly. You'll have a very clean job with all your wires left as original. It's totally reversible with no damage to original parts. Use fine wire for your 2'' jumper. Ron.
>>
Had to come back to your post since I remembered your method being the cleanest sounding. You were right! Thanks to everyone who gave input and advice - any more mods out there as simple as this one??
#81
Since my how-to, I've learned a lot more about wiring. That paperclip thing is fine for people who don't know anything about wiring... I agree that the removal of the white plate and the wire bridge methods are the most proffesional, and most safe methods. But, do as you please, my dudes.
#83
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Newport News, VA
Why don't you use an inline wiring splice? They are available at your local auto parts store, are cheap, reliable, and removable. You merely place both wires in the connector, side-by-side, close the lid, and crimp with pliers. This crimping presses a blade throught the insulation on each wire, but doesn't affect the wire integrity. 30 second install, with no taping, no paperclips, no disassembly of the wiring harness, no cutting of OEM wiring, etc.
Rich
Rich
#84
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Newport News, VA
OK, it took more than 30 seconds. I forgot that one half of the quick-splice has a closed end.
I drilled out the closed end, then cut down the outer wall of the splice with a razor knife to allow the second wire to slide in just like the first. Once modifications were complete on the quick-splice, it literally took about a minute of fishing to disconnect the wiring connector from the bulb fitting, 30 seconds to install the quick-splice, then another 30 seconds to reconnect the wiring connector to the bulb fitting. Retest SAT.
Rich
I drilled out the closed end, then cut down the outer wall of the splice with a razor knife to allow the second wire to slide in just like the first. Once modifications were complete on the quick-splice, it literally took about a minute of fishing to disconnect the wiring connector from the bulb fitting, 30 seconds to install the quick-splice, then another 30 seconds to reconnect the wiring connector to the bulb fitting. Retest SAT.
Rich
#85
>>Why don't you use an inline wiring splice? They are available at your local auto parts store, are cheap, reliable, and removable. You merely place both wires in the connector, side-by-side, close the lid, and crimp with pliers. This crimping presses a blade throught the insulation on each wire, but doesn't affect the wire integrity. 30 second install, with no taping, no paperclips, no disassembly of the wiring harness, no cutting of OEM wiring, etc.
>>
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>>Rich
These are what I used. Clean and quick.
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>>Rich
These are what I used. Clean and quick.
#87
#88
#89
One thing I will say about the paperclip method that sprog posted, I cut my paperclip so i did not have the big loop of PC sticking out. If you trim it down (I used the wire cutter on a pair of stub nose pliers) and use a pair of pliers to do some sharp bends, you can get the PC much flusher to the plug, making a much better jumper...
Rocketboy_X
Rocketboy_X
#90
#91
When done properly, the paperclip mod is les intrusive than inline splicers (which I would never use).
Carefully select the correct guage clip, trim it to length, bend it properly and cover the exposed area with heat shrink tube. That's the way I did mine.
Clean, positive, safe, reversable and... no damage to your wire's insulation.
If you have some pride in your work and do it right, there is nothing McGyver about it.
Carefully select the correct guage clip, trim it to length, bend it properly and cover the exposed area with heat shrink tube. That's the way I did mine.
Clean, positive, safe, reversable and... no damage to your wire's insulation.
If you have some pride in your work and do it right, there is nothing McGyver about it.
#95
#97
I did the mode moths ago. What I did was to use a 4" piece of #24 stranded electronic hookup wire. Strip about 1" off each end. Tighly twist the twisted wire. Poke one end into the back in Pin#1 and one end in #4 -- Just like Jer (Sarcux) described.
Now pull the stranded wire out on the connector end as far as it will go. Trim the stranded wire flush with the connector face. Replug the connector. That's all. About 3/8 or 1/2 inch of the stranded wire will be inside the connector. The insulation on the wire prevents any possibility of a short. No other surgery required.
Total time = 5 minutes. Cost = $0.02. Well worth it!
Tom
Now pull the stranded wire out on the connector end as far as it will go. Trim the stranded wire flush with the connector face. Replug the connector. That's all. About 3/8 or 1/2 inch of the stranded wire will be inside the connector. The insulation on the wire prevents any possibility of a short. No other surgery required.
Total time = 5 minutes. Cost = $0.02. Well worth it!
Tom
#99
This deserves a bump, doesn't it? heh heh.. but I actually have some more info about the infamous paperclip method.. if you want to have a 'flushmount' paperclip, here's the quick and easy dims for you, which sould be good enough.. (just use a pair of needle nose pliers, and you can get nice 90degree bends with your paperclip, err, jumper.. ya, that sounds better..)
Legs - 1/2" to 9/16" should be good
the part in the middle - 5/8" will suffice...
And yes, you will have a big flat U... and it won't look as slapped together either...
Rocketboy_X
Legs - 1/2" to 9/16" should be good
the part in the middle - 5/8" will suffice...
And yes, you will have a big flat U... and it won't look as slapped together either...
Rocketboy_X
#100
I used a couple of pieces of wire that were left over when I was swapping out light fixtures in my house. About a 2 inch piece with 1/4 inch stripped at each end. If you wanted to, you could probably use speaker wire (I would go about 14 or 16 gauge) if you have some lying around, and let's face it, who doesn't?