Interior/Exterior How to install a toggle for the garage door opener
#1
Adding a Toggle Switch to Operate a Garage Door Opener Remote
I got the motivation to take this on after looking at a how-to for adding a garage door opener switch (http://bobodyne.com/web-docs/robots/...tch/index.html) but I didn’t like the pushbutton used there. Rather, I bought a momentary toggle that looked as much as possible like the rest of the toggles and wired it to operate the opener by pushing down and to operate the opener's light by pushing it up. The up position could alternatively be used to operate another garage door opener if you have the proper remote (Sears' 3-button remotes do this). The toggle I bought is the Borg Warner S628, which my local auto parts store (Lee Auto Parts) found for me. I didn't document every step in this process because much is already covered in the above link and other how-tos (such as removing the knee bolster and the two downtubes).
After getting the switch home, I temporarily attached wires between the toggle contacts and contact points on the garage door remote’s PCB to determine which contacts would operate the opener and which would operate its light. Remotes vary so I didn’t document this process. It’s a bit of trial and error. Once I knew the toggle would operate as I intended, I proceeded with the mod.
Borg Warner S628 Momentary Toggle Switch out of the box
Switch with tabs removed to provide clearance within toggle bank housing.
The hole in the switch bank is not big enough for the toggle base.
Looking at it from the inside. Mind the factory toggle 'plungers' when you open up the housing. They can get away from you!
Using a Dremel tool, I cut out a rectangle to fit the toggle base.
Toggle switch attached to cover.
Cover and switch bank snapped back together to test fit before soldering wires to switch base. I used telephone wire that has four color-coded leads inside. I used three of the four but it keeps everything neat and manageable.
The two “nubbies” and the switch indicator light tube need to be snipped from the internal membrane to allow room for the toggle base. Leave the top light tube in place for potentially lighting the cover.
Assembled and ready to connect to the opener remote. Once connected to the remote I stored the remote above the hatch door that is underneath the instrument column as suggested in other how-tos. This makes it easy to drop the remote out for battery replacement. Provide enough wire length to make the replacement easy.
Replace the switch bank assembly and the downtubes, refasten the dash fascia and replace the kneeboard around the steering column.
If I get ambitious, I might decide to scratch the black paint off the switch bank cover in the shape of a garage door. It should light up like the other switch indicators as there is an LED behind it.
I got the motivation to take this on after looking at a how-to for adding a garage door opener switch (http://bobodyne.com/web-docs/robots/...tch/index.html) but I didn’t like the pushbutton used there. Rather, I bought a momentary toggle that looked as much as possible like the rest of the toggles and wired it to operate the opener by pushing down and to operate the opener's light by pushing it up. The up position could alternatively be used to operate another garage door opener if you have the proper remote (Sears' 3-button remotes do this). The toggle I bought is the Borg Warner S628, which my local auto parts store (Lee Auto Parts) found for me. I didn't document every step in this process because much is already covered in the above link and other how-tos (such as removing the knee bolster and the two downtubes).
After getting the switch home, I temporarily attached wires between the toggle contacts and contact points on the garage door remote’s PCB to determine which contacts would operate the opener and which would operate its light. Remotes vary so I didn’t document this process. It’s a bit of trial and error. Once I knew the toggle would operate as I intended, I proceeded with the mod.
Borg Warner S628 Momentary Toggle Switch out of the box
Switch with tabs removed to provide clearance within toggle bank housing.
The hole in the switch bank is not big enough for the toggle base.
Looking at it from the inside. Mind the factory toggle 'plungers' when you open up the housing. They can get away from you!
Using a Dremel tool, I cut out a rectangle to fit the toggle base.
Toggle switch attached to cover.
Cover and switch bank snapped back together to test fit before soldering wires to switch base. I used telephone wire that has four color-coded leads inside. I used three of the four but it keeps everything neat and manageable.
The two “nubbies” and the switch indicator light tube need to be snipped from the internal membrane to allow room for the toggle base. Leave the top light tube in place for potentially lighting the cover.
Assembled and ready to connect to the opener remote. Once connected to the remote I stored the remote above the hatch door that is underneath the instrument column as suggested in other how-tos. This makes it easy to drop the remote out for battery replacement. Provide enough wire length to make the replacement easy.
Replace the switch bank assembly and the downtubes, refasten the dash fascia and replace the kneeboard around the steering column.
If I get ambitious, I might decide to scratch the black paint off the switch bank cover in the shape of a garage door. It should light up like the other switch indicators as there is an LED behind it.
#3
i would have done the same thing if i didn't get the fog lamps. i added a button in my euro shelf for my remote. but this one looks very clean and easy. i have a spair switch pannel that is missing the fog light switch just like the one in the photo's that i would sell to anyone that doesn't want to cut up there's. 30 bucks, 5 bucks to shipp it in the CON. US. pm me.
__________________
#5
Great pictures and write up.Thanks.
For those that prefer not to cut a hole and do the trimming and who like the stock toggles-
You could use a toggle spare switch removed from a toggle panel (as mentioned above)
or get the full toggle panel part and replace the stock part.
You'd have sort of the wrong icon above the toggle switch for the door opener though- it would have the rear fog light icon on the full toggle panel.
For those that prefer not to cut a hole and do the trimming and who like the stock toggles-
You could use a toggle spare switch removed from a toggle panel (as mentioned above)
or get the full toggle panel part and replace the stock part.
You'd have sort of the wrong icon above the toggle switch for the door opener though- it would have the rear fog light icon on the full toggle panel.
#7
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#8
That's totally great. I'm glad my website inpired you to do this.
My black pushbutton is starting to crap out, and I'm going to
copy YOU when I redo it and use the toggle you used.
Thanks for the improvement, and thanks for taking all the
photos and posting them. You've inspired me right back.
- Alan Kilian
My black pushbutton is starting to crap out, and I'm going to
copy YOU when I redo it and use the toggle you used.
Thanks for the improvement, and thanks for taking all the
photos and posting them. You've inspired me right back.
- Alan Kilian
#13
Here's where someone had etched in the garage door opener symbol:
http://homepage.mac.com/mrconana/PhotoAlbum7.html
Now if only we can find out who it is so we can ask him how he did it!!
http://homepage.mac.com/mrconana/PhotoAlbum7.html
Now if only we can find out who it is so we can ask him how he did it!!
#14
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#15
>>Here's where someone had etched in the garage door opener symbol:
>>
>>http://homepage.mac.com/mrconana/PhotoAlbum7.html
I love the "house" icon and the toggle switch, which is identical to the rest of the penal switches.
:smile:
>>
>>http://homepage.mac.com/mrconana/PhotoAlbum7.html
I love the "house" icon and the toggle switch, which is identical to the rest of the penal switches.
:smile:
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