If you really want complete control of your fog lights, just wire in a 3-way switch. Position 1 is Off, Position 2 allows the high beam circuit to control the lights, and Position 3 turns the lights on. I don't know that I need that kind of control, but it would only require two extra wires that run from power through the switch to the lights. The switch should also provide isolation to prevent frying anything from electricity feeding backward to the high beam circuit.

 

That would be cool, if excessive. Still need to find the high beam lead, though

 

Can you guys post some pictures of your installation procedure or at least how the rally lights look once installation is completed?

Thanks. :smile:

 

>>I called up a dealer the other day about the lights and the girl there told me that they got "floppy" after a while since they were just mounted to the grill. Has anyone noticed this? I assume by floppy, she meant that they didnt appear to be fastened very well or something....

I've had mine on for 12 months and they're not floppy. I didn't even on put the little brace which presses on the back of the lights. I guess you just have to make sure that the pop rivets are really tight. I didn't hook them up, but after reading Randy's post I may give it a go. Ron.
P.S. Maybe the girl at the dealer needs to tighten her bra!

 

Has anyone just wired the rally lamps to the high beams without installing the full harness and switch ? Can this be dangerous? I guess this would be DOT legal since the lights would come with the high beams, right?

 

>>Has anyone just wired the rally lamps to the high beams without installing the full harness and switch ? Can this be dangerous? I guess this would be DOT legal since the lights would come with the high beams, right?
>>
>>

I bought a splicer for a couple of bucks and wired it directly into the High beam wire, no problems or overloads but I also did install a fuse just in case. My OEM light kit did not come with a switch so it wasn't an option.

 

>>Aftermarket lights that are connected to the battery and a single isolated switch simply are not going to void any sort of warranty.
>>
>>My local dealer's list price is $400 for the lights and $432 for installation. I took a good look at the Mini lights and although I did not take the time to figure out the exact manufacturer that made them, there is only a short list of what they are likely to actually be. The $400 price tag is for a $50 pair of generic lights and a set of $350 plastic covers with the MINI logo on them.
>>
>>I'm not saying that they are not nice, but I just don't think that they are worth $832 when I know that I can get something nicer and custom for a tiny fraction of the cost with the added benefit of having something that is not just a standard dealer add-on accessory.
>>
>>Give me a couple weeks to take delivery of my MCS and do this first custom mod and then I can give full details of what I did and how much money it cost me. I will likely use a top-notch lighting system such as Hella or PIAA and still save hundreds.
>>
>>
>>
>>_________________
>>~Yucca Patrol~
>>
>>
>>"Good judgement comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgement."

While I am a big fan of using the oem stuff for warranty reasons, I also think that the MINI oem rally lights are of "questionable" quality for the $400 price. You can get Cibie or Hella lights for better prices than that. I bet once you factor in the wiring, mounting, etc the price may not be so different, but Cibie lights are a much higher quality.

Check out Moss Motors for some really cool lighting options (not their Moss MINI site but their classic British Car site)

Moss Motors Lights

They have some lights that look strikingly like the OEM MINI ones for $34 each! Man, I could make My MCS look like Chalie's from the Italian Job at that price! Also check out the Lucas replica lights - I think that they would look great on MINI.

Now I just need to get my MINI (in May I hope )

 

The paperwork with my PIAA rally lights said DO NOT quickly turn the lights on and back off, as this would drastically shorten the lifespan. If you have your rally lights wired to the high beams, they would be flashing anytime you flash your lights. I use the MINI's quick flash function quite often in this area to let other drivers and pedestrians know I'm giving them right of way. Also, isn't it still considered proper driving manners to flash when passing? Just a thought.

 

acetonic:

What model of PIAA driving lights did you get?
Can you tell me who did you buy them from and the price?
Does the installation kit have all necessary hardware to be installed on the MINI?
How about instructios, are they clear enough?

Thanks for any info. you can give me.

Juan :smile:

 

I'm having my lights put on this weekend. Going with the PIAA 520 kit wired to a factory switch. I can't stand the PIAA switch, and want it to look factory as possible.

I'll post pics when done.

Here is a pic in the mean time of my friends with the PIAA kit.

 

The OEM Rallies are so bright that you'd blind people with your lowbeams on too. I drive around with mine on during the day, and still get flashed.

Installed them myself with help from a friend in about 5-6 hours... was a bloody, painful, annoying process, but all in all not extremely hard. The only hard part is GETTING to all the places you have to put things. Oh, and a tip, be sure the fuse is out of the relay inside of the engine compartment before you plug the battery back in, 'cos if the interior switch is on (as it was in my case), it'll blow the fuse. Just a heads up - I thought the lights didn't work, was quite mad. I didn't follow the directions that MINI has for leveling, didn't feel like doing all of that, so I just took it out on a dark road, got out, and positioned them to hopw I like... ow they shine up above and to the sides of the brights, great for spotting deer and such. Good luck! I know there are directions on the net somewhere, 'cos I used 'em... just forget where.

 

We've installed the OEM ralley lights on one of our shop cars that can be operated independantly from the hi-beams. And the best thing to do is buy the Euro parcel shelf so you can have a seamless switch instillation (there is a place for that switch under the dash).

Also - some people have mentioned that the lamps become "wobbly" or has a stobe effect at night - this is because they have a very sharp cut-off and euro lamp pattern that gives you the impression that they are shaking up a storm - this is very common for any E-code or Euro Code driving lamps.

-Peter/Rspeed

 

Minijc, I got the PIAA 520's from MINI-madness.com. They cost $325 when I got them but I think the price may have risen since then. It came with everything you need to install them on a MC or MCS, including photo instructions. The instructions are great, and since the photo's show them being installed on a MINI, they couldn't be easier.

These are the chrome PIAAs that come with a removable chrome brush guard. I think they look great on the MINI.

 

Anybody have a p/n for the factory switch?

Thanks,
Gary

 

Contact Brian at this email address. He should be able to help you out. bmwparts@classicautocampus.com

I am in process of mounting lights on my Mini. Instead of the pop rivets provided, I'm using machine screws and nuts for the brackets. They fit the holes in the mounts perfectly and I know they won't work loose over time.

 

here are the part #'s for the following items

63-12-0-144-134 Key Button (switch) $59.95
51-16-1-186-417 Euro Self $38.25
51-16-7-057-375 Euro Self mat $33.75
07-13-6-800-957 Bolt $.40 x2
07-13-1-472-727 Nut $.28 x2

Now I did the Piaa Kit with the Euro self and factory switch.

 

I have a lot of vibration with the factory lights. how can I correct this?

 

I am looking to buy OEM driving lights (because I like their smaller profile over PIAAs) and was wondering if they are actually shaking? Do most people use the rivets to install them as in the instructions or bolts?

 

I have the factory kit installed at the factory and not at the dealer. They have a little bar connecting the back of the light to the grill. This stiffens up the lights to reduce vibration. I wonder how many people complaining about the lights bouncing have this bar or if the lights are just bolted to the bracket?

 

As stated earlier by someone else, why don't more people go for an actual "good" set of lights as opposed to the OEM ones?

A pair of Hellas that would be equal to, if not better, than the OEM ones would only be like $80.

And for under $200 you could get a sweet set of Cibies, which is the route I'll be going.

Then you could spend the extra money you saved at a machine shop to get a proper bracket machined to mount them on so they won't get all wobbly.

 

Morris, I ordered my 03 with tehrallys and they were installed at the dealership. It may have changed since I got mine, but I was told that the factory didn't install them.
Anyway, the black bar you're talking about, I got to know it when I removed and reinstalled my rally lights after swapping the grille.
It is actually a threaded bar. Like a long bolt with no head. There is a hole drilled in the back piece of the grille assembly, and a threaded grommet inserted. The bar screws in until the back of the light touched it. It then gets a rubber sleeve to make it look black and so that it doesn't scratch up the back of the light.

 

Thanks Morris9982 and Agro. It sounds like most of previous concerns/problems are fixed with this extra bolt. I've seen it and it looks like it would provide enough force to dampen vibration on the bracket.

 

whats the Mini Quick Flash?

Also, somebody mentioned ordering from the UK the lights at MiniSapres.com. I went there..I dont see any form of rally lights on their site :impatient

 

Its not just MINI, its any car. Just flash your highs when about to pass

 

ohh I thought there was some form I didnt know about lol like saying "flash mini flash!" and she flashed her high beams