I know there has been a number of posts regarding installation of gauges for an MCS. I have three questions that I did not see answered elsewhere

1) I have an Autometer single mounting cup that is attached to the dash via sheet metal screws. Has any else used anything other than the screws so that the dash is not ruined?

2) I was thinking of running the tube and wires behind the "A" Pillar. Has anyone tried this and is there enough room to do it? In an attempt to remove my existing pillar I snapped one of the posts. I now know that they are supposed to be broken upon removal. When it broke the other two clips stayed in place, so I put everything back together. Does anyone know of any issue/s I might have created?

Thanks

 

take a look at pics - Bahamabart in the gallery.

I used an autometer cup, guage (subsequently replaced w/ VDO) and the autometer cup extender bracket - which I modified to attach to the tach pod. I think it came out pretty good without damaging the interior. Total cost was under $100.00

To answer yr questions -

Tubing via the pillar - won't that posssibly affect the airbags?

Attaching to the dash - perhaps where the A/C vent is in the middle of the dash you could attach. make sonme kind of bracket that attached to the plastic this way you can replace the plastic and no harm done to the dash in the future? Attaching to the Tach Pod seems to be the best way to go.

bahamabart

 

Great solution

Where did you get the extender bracket and would you mind providing the specifics of that modification including how you attached it to the tach?

Thanks

Bob

 

Autometer makes an extended cup bracket and the part number is ATM 5265. The part is 6.95 !! Thats right 6.95 and since it designed to take the autometer cup that connection is dealt with. So the only thing to deal with is connecting it to the guage pod.

Fabrication - the bracket has sides which tapper off towards the end, I removed those. If you have a fax or email will send you a drawing but once you have it in your hand it should be clear what to do. The bracket is aluminum so it is eaily removed - dremel is ideal but at the time I used a hacksaw and metal file. A little flat black spray paint and you are done.

Connection to POD - I attached it to the guage pod by using a longer screw into an existing screw whole on the back and since I was only using one screw, I complimented it with double stick tape.

TAPING the Vaccum Line - there are some good posts on the subject but in SUM you can attach the boost guage line by a) having long fingers and only removing the intercooler. Most of the skin has grown back on my nuckles!!

The only words of wisdom here is that all of the post I have read discuss using a plastic T connector. I found in the same area at the auto parts store a RUBBER T CONNECTOR which directly accepted all of the hard tubing without having to use other tubing to connect up.

The vaccum line is hard tubing and so is the boost guagge line so to connect them to a hard plastic T you need other tubing. This will make sense when you have handled the lines and are holding a hard platic T in your hands. THIS can all ve avoided by finding this RUBBER T CONNECTOR. If I can find the make and part number I will send you PM.

Good luck - drop me a PM if you have more questions

 

Here is my email Bob@winddancerchimes.com

I ordered the part for $6.95 abour 1/2 hour ago :-) We already have the line cut in order to set up the Vacumn Gain system. Won't the plastic tee from Autometer work? As you can tell I haven't tried to put all the parts together. I do have a dremel so your drawing would help. Where did you run the tube from inside the cockpit to the engine?

Thanks for all your help

Bob

 

The A (and C) pillar trim is single-use only, it cannot be removed without destroying it. This because the pillar trim is made to 'breakaway' in a uniform fashion upon side airbag deployment. While the actuators (the explosive charges) are actually behind the C-pillars (not in the A-pillar as that "AIRBAG" wording on them suggests) there is still a portion of the bag contained and anchored there that pops out from under the trim to form a continuous 'wall' to the windshield.

As long as you didnt cement or otherwise reattach the trim more securely than it was originally, there should be no issues. The trim actually has a tether which keeps it from detaching completely during airbag deployment and becoming a projectile. The breakaway feature is there to maintain consistency in breakaway that cannot be achieved using normal reusable mounting methods. If the trim has to be removed for some reason, it needs to be replaced with new trim. Removing it 'breaks' it the same way as bag deployment.

All this being said I dont advocate using pillar mount gauges because of potential interference with airbags, though mounting one gauge on the lower portion should not be an issue. The gauge wiring acts like a tether to keep it from flying off, and the location is low enough to not interfere with deployment. Mainly, though, I have never liked the look of pillar mount gauges.

 

Thanks, I now agree. I'm going to attach to the tach as suggest earlier in this thread.

Bob

 

email sent with diagram and pics - good luck

bahamaBart

 

You can mount an Autometer cup to the platic shroud that goes over the top of the steering column fairly easily and it ends up looking nice as well as being in a great viewing position

 

For anyone else that wants to see my single gauge pod - I uploaded some new pics in the gallery - bahamabart.

Okay not the best pics but - I tried to show how I routed the boost tubing as well as the modified autometer bracket.

Autometer makes a cup "extender bracket" for 6.96 which is what I modified. Basically all I did was shave off the two sides of the bracket and curved the bracket to follow the contour of the tach pod. Since it is aluminum it can be done with such basic tools as a hacksaw, metal file and a vise. If you have a dremel it should be 1,2,3.

Hard to go wrong for 6.95 !

The other thing I found which makes ones life easier is I used a RUBBER T rather than a hard plastic T. The RUBBER T accepted the vaccum and boost lines simply by connecting them and the RUBBER T will flex a bit - since the space is tight this little bit of flex helps ensure that the lines don't pinch themselves.

bahamabart

 

My autometer's just a voltmeter (my MCS sits hibernates in the winter so
becomes pretty handy) so I used the autometer cup and 3M taped it
under the switch box. pict below was taken for the shift **** and
boot, but you can kinda see how the meter was mounted.:smile:

 

Don's Recreational Vehicles egauges.com when they sell the gauge and pod included both the tee and the rubber tee.

Bob