You should have left it longer.

With a SS kit and a long shifter, you get short shifts and easier shifts because the throw is reduced and you have additional leverage.

I have my stock shifter back in my car with a shifter stick that 2 inches longer than stock and my shifts feel better than my shorth throw did and its easier to throw the stock around.

 

I have a short shifter and used to have a Momo **** that brought it back up to stock height. True, the leverage made it easier to shift but with more distance. I put a stock **** back on and actually like it better. The increased force is worth the decreased distance to me - feels better for some reason. I think I would like it even more if I could find a short ball that was heavy but all blue leather, but this is a little picky and I havent found one yet.

 

i kidna like the stock **** on my mini.. is it really that big of a difference with the weight factor?

sm

 

Where can I get this? It retains the stock look, which I like and it looks pretty nice. Anybody else have this? Any comments on feel?

 

I got it from my local MINI dealer

It was in 2003 canadian accessories catalogue. Sorry, I don't have the part number anymore...

It's a bit smaller than the stock ****, and weights between stock & Whalen.

It does feel cold in Winter weather, but I got a custom Lapis Blue **** cover to warm it quickly on those cold days!

 

If its already a short shifter (longer on the bottom side) then extending the length on top will have no effect on the throw of the shifter.

you could have the same shifter with one shifter arm thats 10 inches and one thats 50 inches, it will still be the same throw, you only changed the length of the top half, not the part that connects with the shifter linkage.

 

Could you give me a firm definition of "throw"? I am not very technical when it comes to crap like this so please bear with me here.

I realize that a short shifter is longer on the bottom side, but due to the angle of the shifter on top, it seems that to move a short **** from 1st to 2nd the **** would travel say 5 inches, but to move one with a 50inch upper shifter arm (as in your example), it seems to me that the **** on top would move over a foot (due to the angle).

 

50 inches is a little extreme, you would probably notice a difference there

no mater how far you need to move the top, the bottom still has the same distance to travel.

does that make any more sense?

 

Still need a definition of throw because I have never been sure if this is the distance the **** itself moves or the lower shifter arm or what. This is why I never mentioned throw but only the distance that the **** moves.

So I am still thinking that what I am saying is correct but am open to be proven wrong. With a **** that is about an inch higher at the angle that the shifter is in going from 1st to 2nd it seems that there is at least an inch further movement of the ****. Am I crazy? Maybe I need to draw a picture.

 

Well, you have to remember, some of those guys that cut their stock lever down to under 3 inches from the pivot to the ball, they have to use so much effort to throw the shifter, they negate the entire purpose for shortening the shifter.

the reduced effort it takes to throw the shifter with additional length, you will notice the increased travel form gear to gear less, as less effort is required to move ths shifter.

 

I just did some measuring and **** switching and I still stand by my statement. Promini shortshifter with stock **** requires aboout 4 inches of movement of the **** to go from 1st to 2nd. Promini shortshifter with MOMO Raptor **** (about an inch higher) requires about 5.5 inches of movement of the **** to go from 1st to 2nd. The higher **** does reduce the effort slightly.

However, my personal preference is the lower **** requiring a small amount of increased effort but requiring about 1.5 inches less movement. Quicker shifts por moi.

Yes, I realize that the guys cutting down their stock shifters are increasing the effort required to shift quite a bit. That doesnt pertain to me however. Maybe these guys that cut down their stock ***** have short strong arms?

 

I'm still curious to know what it is the stock height of the shifter from bezel to **** top. I suspect that, despite cutting my shaft slightly, my MOMO still sits a bit higher than stock, but very comfortable "throw-wise". Part of the reason I don't want to go lower than stock is aesthetics, but the other is practical - that 4th to 5th throw was tough with the Helix SS and stock ****/shaft height.

I'd also like to know what other know heights go with some of the options described in the posting for the sake of comparison, if no one has anything better to do with their time!

 

im very happy with my 2 inch longer than stock Hurst shifter with no SS kit on it.

the increase in leverage has made it much easier to throw, so i dint feel the need for a SS anymore.

 

I like that. Very cool.

 

"Maybe these guys that cut down their stock ***** have short strong arms?"

I work out and have no problem with the shorter shift. It took me half a day to get used to it. I would not go back to the stock lenght if given the option. I will add more weight to the ball... .

Bomboasy

 

I do not agree with "they have to use so much effort to throw the shifter, they negate the entire purpose for shortening the shifter." I agree that it requires some additional effort. I do not have to use both hands. I can't do it with two fingers, but can do it with three. The distance between shifts is shorter and quicker. That is a fact. I used to feel a little unsure about down shifting from 6 to 4 with stock, . Now that I made the cut, that is not the case anymore. It is not only for looks. There is real merit to this idea. Again, it is not for everyone, but I am very happy with it.

Bomboasy

 

ive already been thru 4 different shifters in both my Cooper and my S

the longer Hurst with the stock bottom half (Not shortned) is the best out of all of them so far.

 

Does anyone know how to take off the stock MCSc aluminum shift ****? Does it just unscrew or is there more to it? I bought the following Billard shift **** and want to install it but need to remove the original first. All your help is appreciated. This is a Universal fit **** with set screws. Hope it works.

 

brace yourself and give it a yank, i believe. unless its like a ford or chevy where it has a C clip in the side of the handle.

Better wait for an auto owner to chime in before you go rip the shift stick out of the selector, lol

 

Thanks Rick (not-so-rednwhitecooper)! That actually worked. At first I thought you were kidding but just holding it and pulling straight up worked....of course the **** went flying out of my hands into the back seat but I got it off. Seems strange that the factory installs it like this and it actually stays in place.

How do you like my new shift ****?

 

Thought I'd dredge this old thread back up since I got a new **** & short shifter...

UUC Motorwerks RK3 Shiftknob sitting on a Craven Speed Adjustable Short Shifter with Shift Well Cover



A Big Shout Out to Dan @ Grassroots Garage (you guys know him as onefastmini) Thanks for all your help and for talking me into the shifter cover.
-G

 

Hey, I'm FROM River City!!! Sorry, hijack over... resume shift **** posting activities. I would post mine, but it's stock and I hate it.

 

This is an awesome looking setup , I bet it shifts nice too.

How much?

 

Shift **** is $99
https://secure3.nexternal.com/shared...products%2Easp

Shifter is $160 and the cover is $85.
http://www.cravenspeed.com/index.php...e213ff5a84452f

Lucky for me they were all birthday gifts!
-G

 

A big shout out to Doug Whalen for providing me with this custom WSM. He machined the space for the Manzanita root inlay that I provided and put together. I think it's a first for Doug!



cheers,