Interior/Exterior Favorite mods ... for the $$
#1
Favorite mods ... for the $$
Was thinking about all of the mods I've done and thought I'd nominate a few of them for "Favorite Mods for the $$."
Favorite mod for less than $5
Hard to beat these vinyl hole plugs from Orchard Supply Hardware ($.49 each):
Favorite Mod for under $30
2 Nominations. First, the Alta Stubby antenna for $29.95. Really changes the look of your MINI and eliminates the RC look. But my favorite is the famous "black belt" or "blackout beltline." A roll of 1/2" low gloss black 3m vinyl tape costs $17.95 for 150'. Actually, since you use less than 20' for a MINI's beltline, the cost is much less ... but I bought the roll, so we'll count it as $17.95. Maybe I should create a new category for Favorite Mod for under $20.
Favorite Mod for under $50
Gotta be my Sirius PnP (Howie fans understand). Although it wouldn't be possible (well, possible but not as good) without the MINI Cooper Auxiliary Input ($39.95).
Favorite Mod for $100
For me, this was easy. My first mod was an an Aero Grill from OutMotoring ($89):
Favorite Mod for $150
Two nominations for me: Tint or Whalen Shift Machine. The only way for me to decide was to think about what I could go back to: No tint, or stock shift ****. I can live without the tint ... Whalen wins!
Now, these are just my favorites. Ask me tomorrow, and my list might change.
Happy motoring!
Favorite mod for less than $5
Hard to beat these vinyl hole plugs from Orchard Supply Hardware ($.49 each):
Favorite Mod for under $30
2 Nominations. First, the Alta Stubby antenna for $29.95. Really changes the look of your MINI and eliminates the RC look. But my favorite is the famous "black belt" or "blackout beltline." A roll of 1/2" low gloss black 3m vinyl tape costs $17.95 for 150'. Actually, since you use less than 20' for a MINI's beltline, the cost is much less ... but I bought the roll, so we'll count it as $17.95. Maybe I should create a new category for Favorite Mod for under $20.
Favorite Mod for under $50
Gotta be my Sirius PnP (Howie fans understand). Although it wouldn't be possible (well, possible but not as good) without the MINI Cooper Auxiliary Input ($39.95).
Favorite Mod for $100
For me, this was easy. My first mod was an an Aero Grill from OutMotoring ($89):
Favorite Mod for $150
Two nominations for me: Tint or Whalen Shift Machine. The only way for me to decide was to think about what I could go back to: No tint, or stock shift ****. I can live without the tint ... Whalen wins!
Now, these are just my favorites. Ask me tomorrow, and my list might change.
Happy motoring!
#2
Hmmm.... although I don't have all the pictures to back them up like you do (nice job by the way)...
my favorite under:
under $350
The m7 Understrut System
under $200
The m7 Strut Tower Brace
under $50 (I could be wrong about the price)
Ian Cull's (GBMINI) Auto up circuit with Garage door opener
under $100
The red leather cowhide I bought to wrap my downtubes and armrests
that's all I have for now. There are plenty more but that's all I feel like mentioning.
my favorite under:
under $350
The m7 Understrut System
under $200
The m7 Strut Tower Brace
under $50 (I could be wrong about the price)
Ian Cull's (GBMINI) Auto up circuit with Garage door opener
under $100
The red leather cowhide I bought to wrap my downtubes and armrests
that's all I have for now. There are plenty more but that's all I feel like mentioning.
#3
#4
Originally Posted by CustomAV
under $350
The m7 Understrut System
The m7 Understrut System
Originally Posted by CustomAV
under $200
The m7 Strut Tower Brace
The m7 Strut Tower Brace
Originally Posted by CustomAV
under $50 (I could be wrong about the price)
Ian Cull's (GBMINI) Auto up circuit with Garage door opener
Ian Cull's (GBMINI) Auto up circuit with Garage door opener
Originally Posted by CustomAV
under $100
The red leather cowhide I bought to wrap my downtubes and armrests
The red leather cowhide I bought to wrap my downtubes and armrests
#5
#6
Under $15: Light-in-sight thingy for my windshield. Never having to crane my neck to see a stoplight above my line of sight is appreciated each and every time I pull out into an intersection to make a left turn. www.lightinsight.com
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Under $250:
15% MINI Madness Pulley installed. Gotta love deals from a local shop.
Under $200:
Custom Whalen Shiftknob. This on the stock shifter was nice, it's even better on my B&M.
Under $100:
Euro Parcel Shelf. It's nice to have some more storage space within a reasonable reach.
Under $50:
Aux Cable. Let's me hook up anything I want to the stereo.
15% MINI Madness Pulley installed. Gotta love deals from a local shop.
Under $200:
Custom Whalen Shiftknob. This on the stock shifter was nice, it's even better on my B&M.
Under $100:
Euro Parcel Shelf. It's nice to have some more storage space within a reasonable reach.
Under $50:
Aux Cable. Let's me hook up anything I want to the stereo.
#10
Originally Posted by Duck360198
Nice....love that location. Looks great for aftermarket....BUT, not sure if the OEM setup can be beat.
And one could argue that the functionality and screen display on the aftermarket units is a bit nicer, but it is nice not to have to add anything with the OEM system.
Anyway, here's my JVC Sirius mounted very nicely. Was an X-mas gift so all I had to buy was the special MINI specific mount.
#11
humm...hard to tell on mine, cause i won't do a mod unless i really wanted
to.
but i guess the coin holder with light mod and silver paint on amber bulbs
have been good since they were free mods for me...just used stuff
i had.
others, i had to pay something...so ofcourse they better be good.
to.
but i guess the coin holder with light mod and silver paint on amber bulbs
have been good since they were free mods for me...just used stuff
i had.
others, i had to pay something...so ofcourse they better be good.
#12
Originally Posted by Duck360198
Nice....love that location. Looks great for aftermarket....BUT, not sure if the OEM setup can be beat.
The OEM setup is nice. The only thing that I like about the PnP unit is that I can move it from car to car and it gives you a lot of other information that the MINI headunit doesn't display.
Moving from car to car use to be important - until I got Sirius for both of our cars!
#16
Originally Posted by CmdrVimes
Under $250:
15% MINI Madness Pulley installed. Gotta love deals from a local shop.
15% MINI Madness Pulley installed. Gotta love deals from a local shop.
Originally Posted by CmdrVimes
Under $100:
Euro Parcel Shelf. It's nice to have some more storage space within a reasonable reach.
Euro Parcel Shelf. It's nice to have some more storage space within a reasonable reach.
Originally Posted by CmdrVimes
Under $50:
Aux Cable. Let's me hook up anything I want to the stereo.
Aux Cable. Let's me hook up anything I want to the stereo.
#18
#19
Originally Posted by Nuff
Ok ... that's just not fair!! Most quotes for 15% pulley run ... $400 installed. I think that's what Randy charges at his pulley parties, too.
Less then $5 of 1/4" steel and a piece of 1.5" pipe and a few minutes doing a cardboard mock up and a little welding, and as my G-daughters says, "Ta Da"
I've dressed it up a little with a hanging hole and some red "Dip-It" on the handle
I've got less then $80 invested in my 15% reduction pulley install. R-Speed pulley from eBay at $63 (sorry Joe ) and a belt from the local Car Quest place.
If you've got a local club you might want to check into it and see if anyone has the tools and wants to help.
#20
Originally Posted by Smokey
I've got less then $80 invested in my 15% reduction pulley install. R-Speed pulley from eBay at $63 (sorry Joe ) and a belt from the local Car Quest place.
If you've got a local club you might want to check into it and see if anyone has the tools and wants to help.
If you've got a local club you might want to check into it and see if anyone has the tools and wants to help.
How long does it take to DIY?
#21
Originally Posted by Nuff
Was thinking about all of the mods I've done and thought I'd nominate a few of them for "Favorite Mods for the $$."
Favorite mod for less than $5
Hard to beat these vinyl hole plugs from Orchard Supply Hardware ($.49 each):
Favorite mod for less than $5
Hard to beat these vinyl hole plugs from Orchard Supply Hardware ($.49 each):
#22
Originally Posted by ImagoX
Hey, what sizes are these plugs? Are thes ejust the ones you get like back in the Cabinetry section to fill in screw holes and such?
#23
Originally Posted by Nuff
Never really thought of the DIY pulley kit before. Lifting the engine seems a little "out of my league."
How long does it take to DIY?
How long does it take to DIY?
Really surprising to many how easy it was to lift the engine and with the newer (read that as smaller) pulley tool, it should go even quicker.
I did a drive belt a few weekends ago and even with pulling the inner fender well (plastic liner) it only took 34 minutes, start to finish. Pulling the fender liner is the way to go!!
BTW, on the 3 hole door panels - the upper and rear holes are the same 11/16", the forward one is 5/8". HD and Lowes also have these in their hardware isle. I think I paid 36 cents for a pack of 2. Great little mod!
Edit: Wrong info - correction made. Sorry
#24
from the looks of it, your soldering iron's wattage is too low or
you didn't wait long enough for the iron to heat up. you got "cold
solder" and your housing/wires melted from you waiting for the
solder to melt.
next time wat you can do is to use a higher wattage iron, or use
leaded solder (your solder might be lead-free which requires higher
temps for it to melt and to 'stick') and make sure to use solder with
flux (radioshack has these 60/40 or 40/60 which are easy to use).
For doing car stuff (non-sensitive electronics), usually you want to
use a soldering iron higher than 55watts (100w ideal). if you are
using a wimpy 25watt, then what you do is to cut the tip so that it
is shorter. This makes your soldering tip closer to the heating core.
You can just hack it, then use a file to make the tip pointy again.
This way you loose less heat and your tip with be much hotter.
'tinning' the wires before soldering to the terminals make it 10x
easier to solder. heat the wire for about 2sec first with your iron, then
push the solder onto the bare wire. the heated wire will melt the solder
and coat itself.
goodluck.
you didn't wait long enough for the iron to heat up. you got "cold
solder" and your housing/wires melted from you waiting for the
solder to melt.
next time wat you can do is to use a higher wattage iron, or use
leaded solder (your solder might be lead-free which requires higher
temps for it to melt and to 'stick') and make sure to use solder with
flux (radioshack has these 60/40 or 40/60 which are easy to use).
For doing car stuff (non-sensitive electronics), usually you want to
use a soldering iron higher than 55watts (100w ideal). if you are
using a wimpy 25watt, then what you do is to cut the tip so that it
is shorter. This makes your soldering tip closer to the heating core.
You can just hack it, then use a file to make the tip pointy again.
This way you loose less heat and your tip with be much hotter.
'tinning' the wires before soldering to the terminals make it 10x
easier to solder. heat the wire for about 2sec first with your iron, then
push the solder onto the bare wire. the heated wire will melt the solder
and coat itself.
goodluck.
Originally Posted by shankrabbit
I know!
It was my first solder ever.
Like I said... GEH-TTO!
It was my first solder ever.
Like I said... GEH-TTO!
#25
Originally Posted by kenchan
'tinning' the wires before soldering to the terminals make it 10x easier to solder. heat the wire for about 2sec first with your iron, then
push the solder onto the bare wire. the heated wire will melt the solder
and coat itself.
push the solder onto the bare wire. the heated wire will melt the solder
and coat itself.