Interior/Exterior make the creaking stop
#1
#2
I would like to give you some suggestions but I run the risk of redundancy since you have tried everything.
First you do know that sound can appear to come from an area that is different than the true source? Let’s assume that it is the boot hatch door. The boot latch D ring has changed diameters three times so be sure you have the current part. The later models have rubber bumpers that are attached with the upper bumper cover screws; if you don’t have them, get a pair and try them out. Remove the boot hatch threshold cover and fold the seats down if you still use them. Adjust the latch mechanism so that the latch ring does not knock when wiggled by hand. Have someone else drive while you curl up in the back to listen, stop, adjust and try again (I’m not suggesting you ride without a seat belt on a public roadway). When adjusting boot hatch closure place a piece of paper under the screw out bumpers in the door, close the hatch and adjust so that the paper on each side has a little drag when pulled (this will give you an equal base line), then screw them out a half turn. Open and close the hatch to make sure it will latch with a little forceful effort and let go when the release button is pressed.
If you do all that and still have the creak or you discover when riding in the back the noise is from another place, post again and we’ll go on from there. There are numerous side panel attachments and contact points that provide opportunities for generating noise.
First you do know that sound can appear to come from an area that is different than the true source? Let’s assume that it is the boot hatch door. The boot latch D ring has changed diameters three times so be sure you have the current part. The later models have rubber bumpers that are attached with the upper bumper cover screws; if you don’t have them, get a pair and try them out. Remove the boot hatch threshold cover and fold the seats down if you still use them. Adjust the latch mechanism so that the latch ring does not knock when wiggled by hand. Have someone else drive while you curl up in the back to listen, stop, adjust and try again (I’m not suggesting you ride without a seat belt on a public roadway). When adjusting boot hatch closure place a piece of paper under the screw out bumpers in the door, close the hatch and adjust so that the paper on each side has a little drag when pulled (this will give you an equal base line), then screw them out a half turn. Open and close the hatch to make sure it will latch with a little forceful effort and let go when the release button is pressed.
If you do all that and still have the creak or you discover when riding in the back the noise is from another place, post again and we’ll go on from there. There are numerous side panel attachments and contact points that provide opportunities for generating noise.
#3
I have not had any upgrades. And on my own have thought about adding rubber bumpers at those bumper mounting screws. the boot has marks indicating that mini had thought about it. Thanks for the info, I was moments away from locking myself in the trunk area and having my wife drive around in first gear for hours on end:impatient
#4
#5
I had a creaking sound that was not due to the boot latch. It took a while, but I tracked it down and fixed it. Maybe you're having the same issue.
The source, it turns out was centered around the cable leading to the boot latch. This cable is located under the trim panel that covers the latch. You need not remove the bolts on the latch. I made that mistake, but more on that later. Taking off the panel, you'll see the cable running from the center towards the passenger side. There are 3 plastic clips holding this cable down. One of these was making a squeaking sound when pressure was applied to panel above. I took a little piece of that grippy stuff you put under carpets to keep them from sliding and dampened the clip. Problem solved.
It seemed to come back later, but this was because I unfastened the aforementioned bolts on the latch and didn't sock them back down right. This could be another cause of your squeaking. Make sure these bolts are tight. There's also some wiggle room where the latch is seated, allowing for small adjustments. Might want to check this out too.
The source, it turns out was centered around the cable leading to the boot latch. This cable is located under the trim panel that covers the latch. You need not remove the bolts on the latch. I made that mistake, but more on that later. Taking off the panel, you'll see the cable running from the center towards the passenger side. There are 3 plastic clips holding this cable down. One of these was making a squeaking sound when pressure was applied to panel above. I took a little piece of that grippy stuff you put under carpets to keep them from sliding and dampened the clip. Problem solved.
It seemed to come back later, but this was because I unfastened the aforementioned bolts on the latch and didn't sock them back down right. This could be another cause of your squeaking. Make sure these bolts are tight. There's also some wiggle room where the latch is seated, allowing for small adjustments. Might want to check this out too.
#7
I tried the electrical tape too at first. It worked, but then I began to notice that I had to slam the hell out of the boot to get it closed. It wasn't until I saw that there was daylight showing through the bottom of the boot lid when closed that I realized that the latch, not the latch ring mind you, was not properly seated or tightened down. Since it wasn't fastened, the latch just defaulted to the farthest position forward, which is barely within tolerance to allow latch and ring to mate. Hence the slamming. Just pushing the latch a bit more aft fixed everything.
The tape is of course still on there, though. But just because I'm lazy.
The tape is of course still on there, though. But just because I'm lazy.
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