Interior/Exterior Interior and exterior modifications for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Interior/Exterior Light that boot! (LED trunk light MOD)

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  #226  
Old 02-01-2007 | 12:42 AM
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Does anyone have a list of what number led bulbs go where in the Mini?
 
  #227  
Old 02-01-2007 | 03:12 AM
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I am thinking of running an LED light strip attached to the underneath of my M7 strut tower bar. You guys have any pointers? Which length 19" or 9.5"? Where would I wire it? I do not want it to be always on... Is there a way to do it so it comes on when the others do... the footwells, boot, dome, etc.... I am for sure sold on everywhere else, but if I do it I want to go big and get my motor glowing red as well.....

This thread has been awesome, now just waiting on the delivery truck! AAARRRGGGGHHHHH
 
  #228  
Old 02-06-2007 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Yo'sDad
I believe that installing the resistor across the 12V+ to the grnd (exactly where the bulb used to be) would be parrallel. Instead of a stock bulb in the stock bulb holder, I have a 1K resistor sitting in the stock bulb holder. Works great. I'll do a diagram and post if anyone wants it.

YD

Would like to see the diagram if possible.

Thanks
 
  #229  
Old 02-06-2007 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MINIGolfer1
Would like to see the diagram if possible.
Yo's Dad already posted diagram and photo in post #66.
 
  #230  
Old 03-11-2007 | 07:13 PM
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I did it!

After about two months of carefully reading this thread and all the great instructions from the LED masters here, I finally installed the LED strips in the boot of my cabrio.

I have the parts to do the quick disconnect cord but I wasn't sure how to hook up the wires to those parts. So for now I just removed the bulb and connected the wires to the empty light fixture with the resistor in place of the bulb. A little bit of solder is holding each connection in place. No OEM wires were injured or altered in the completion of this mod.

I never take my shelf out because I'm 99% top down (and you can't put the cabrio top down with the shelf removed) so removal of the shelf isn't a big issue. But I may still make the quick disconnect at some point because it's easier to clean the inside of the rear window with the shelf removed. I'll bring the parts to the Dragon and maybe Matt can help me with the quick disconnect wiring.

I'm a total idiot when it comes to electrical stuff, so thanks to everyone for all the great instructions.

Thanks!







 
  #231  
Old 03-11-2007 | 08:42 PM
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Are there any types of wires that are too 'thin' to use? The LED strips uses some thin wires, was wondering if I need to extend the wires, if I should find something as 'thin' or 'thicker' (not even sure what guage the LED strips uses).

Also, did you guys have run fuses?

Thanks!
 
  #232  
Old 03-11-2007 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MINI_Bee
I did it!
Good work! The concept behind wiring the quick disconnect is very simple. Connect the two wires of the disconnect to the +/- of the bulb socket. At the other end of the disconnect, you will also have the +/- (like an extension cord). Connect the wires of the LEDs to the disconnect wires just as though you are connecting to the socket itself. So instead of running the LED wires all the way to the bulb socket, you only have to run them to the disconnect wires. If that wasn't clear, Matt can explain it more quickly in person than it takes to write it down.

Here's something I came across that may be worthwhile. Superlumination sells empty 194 bases at 29 cents each. It is possible to wire up something that is plug-and-play without having to attach any wiring directly to the bulb socket itself. This would be for cabrios only. The hardtop uses a festoon bulb and I don't see any festoon equivalent to use.



Originally Posted by aminicooper
Are there any types of wires that are too 'thin' to use? The LED strips uses some thin wires, was wondering if I need to extend the wires, if I should find something as 'thin' or 'thicker' (not even sure what guage the LED strips uses).

Also, did you guys have run fuses?
Thicker wires are no problem. The wires on the LED strips are already so thin that they are a bit awkward to handle (stripping and making connections), and I wouldn't go thinner. Choose whatever wire thickness you find comfortable to physically work with.

I didn't add a fuse. The LEDs add very little current draw to the existing circuit, and the circuit is already on a stock fuse.
 
  #233  
Old 05-05-2007 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rkw
Some other 194 locations:
  • front parking lights

Front parking light??? where is that ??
 
  #234  
Old 05-05-2007 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MNEEME
I have the Green LED Dome Light from Autolumination


And it lights up the whole cabin for me.
I also have LEDs in the stock footwell, which are 194 Wedge Matrix 5 LED Bulb -- http://autolumination.com/194.htm

From what i have been reading, for these, we just swap the bulb with the original ones.


Can someone tell me what is the "appearance" difference between this method and the one mentioned before using the oznium led strips? http://www.oznium.com/led-flex-strips
 
  #235  
Old 05-05-2007 | 08:02 PM
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I have read this thread from front to back.

i think the boot light can be easily done,

but im still confused at how the puddle light can be done.

You guys seemed to mainly talked about how-to install for boot and for the foot well light.


Did I miss the post about how-to install puddle light?
 
  #236  
Old 05-05-2007 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rkw
For the footwell and puddle lights, use the flank 194 bulbs from VLEDS: http://frickinbrite.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=249
Hi, rkw.

you talked as if you just replaced the puddle lights like you replaced the dome light.


But on my 02 hardtop mini. There is no stock puddle light on my door?
 
  #237  
Old 05-05-2007 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by lunlun
Front parking light??? where is that ??
Also known as running lights or in the UK they are called sidelights. They share the lamp housing with the front turn signals. You should see them light up when you turn on the lights (either 1st or 2nd positions).

Originally Posted by lunlun
im still confused at how the puddle light can be done.

You guys seemed to mainly talked about how-to install for boot and for the foot well light.

Did I miss the post about how-to install puddle light?
I think MINIs only started to have puddle lights with '05 model year. If you have a pre-'05 car, it will be quite a chore to add the power wiring for puddle lights.

With an '05+ car, you can upgrade the puddle light by changing the bulb to the flank bulb mentioned above, or install an LED strip. Yo's Dad has a great writeup on how to install the LED strip: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...27#post1355427 (post #51).
 
  #238  
Old 05-06-2007 | 02:00 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply rkw !!
 
  #239  
Old 05-06-2007 | 02:09 AM
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double post
 

Last edited by lunlun; 05-06-2007 at 02:21 AM.
  #240  
Old 05-06-2007 | 02:32 AM
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There are so many different type of 194!!!
which works for the front parking light?!

194 High Power ???194 - 5 LED Refractor ?

the website made it sounds like both of them have their advantages.
 
  #241  
Old 05-06-2007 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by lunlun
There are so many different type of 194!!!
which works for the front parking light?!

194 High Power ???194 - 5 LED Refractor ?

the website made it sounds like both of them have their advantages.
Currently there is not an ideal LED replacement for the parking lights. The 5 LED refractor will be somewhat dim, but its side firing LEDs will fill out the lens with light. Someone who installed them said he had to widen the bulb opening a bit for the LED to fit through.

The high power LED is much brighter but it will look like a sharp point of light. This type of LED produces enough heat that it can shorten their life, and this particular bulb has a heat sink to help keep the LED cooler. However parking lights are constantly on (unlike turn or brake lights) and they might still get hot enough that they may not last a long time (more than a few months). You won't know until you try them. It depends on how well the heat sink works and and how much the lamp fixture dissipates heat.
 
  #242  
Old 05-06-2007 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rkw
Currently there is not an ideal LED replacement for the parking lights. The 5 LED refractor will be somewhat dim, but its side firing LEDs will fill out the lens with light. Someone who installed them said he had to widen the bulb opening a bit for the LED to fit through.

The high power LED is much brighter but it will look like a sharp point of light. This type of LED produces enough heat that it can shorten their life, and this particular bulb has a heat sink to help keep the LED cooler. However parking lights are constantly on (unlike turn or brake lights) and they might still get hot enough that they may not last a long time (more than a few months). You won't know until you try them. It depends on how well the heat sink works and and how much the lamp fixture dissipates heat.
I've tried three styles:
* The 5-LED refractor mentioned above. Had to file additional slots into the housing to have it fit. Too dim.
* The 5-LED high-power matrix - 4 side firing and one front firing high-flux LEDs. Don't require housing mod. Very bright and looks good. Fills the lamp. But fails due to either heat or voltage (may not handle alternator voltage well)
* The 4-LED front firing high-power - No housing mod required, seems to handle heat and voltage well (so far), but is a tighter point of light - but still better than a single LED... pretty bright.
 
  #243  
Old 05-10-2007 | 06:51 PM
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Hey guys, a quick question.

did you guys use "fuse" on your LED-strips.

I was reading the Q&A section on ozium and it seems that the techichan there suggests buyer to use a fuse on the LED strips?!?!
 
  #244  
Old 05-10-2007 | 07:18 PM
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I haven't read the specific item at oznium.com that you're referring to - but all my LEDs are tied to existing fused circuits. If you were wiring them directly into hot and ground (perhaps with a new switch), you'd certainly want to fuse the new circuit to prevent a dangerous condition in a short...
 
  #245  
Old 05-11-2007 | 12:54 PM
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I used existing power (OEM white lamp wiring) for all my interior LEDs, and all of those lights are already fused. Because LEDs draw so much less amperage than the stock white lights (even LED strips), no additional fusing is required. if you get an accidental grounding or other issue, the OEM cabin fuse will pop, protecting you from a fire.

Note that ANY (any, serously) time you add any EXTRA wiring however, you must, must, MUST use a fuse. this is not optional. But, if you're replacing existing accessories (the OEM lights) with lower-amperage replacements like LEDs then the existing fusing should be fine.

Hope that helps!
 
  #246  
Old 05-11-2007 | 01:37 PM
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Thank you both BlimeyCabrio and ImagoX for your reply!!



btw, if i want my LED-strips to light up ALL the time, is there a way for me to connect the LED strips to the 12V power outlet in my car?


is there anything in radio shack that can help me achieve this???




I really appreciate the time you guys take to help new comers like me.
 
  #247  
Old 05-12-2007 | 04:54 AM
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ImagoX is da man. I'm just trying to "Be Like Mike"... OK, "Be Like Matt"... but you get it...

For the "always on"... you should be able to find the wiring to the cigarette lighter/power outlet under the console if you pull it - you can use wire taps from Radio Shack or whatever to tap there - I've done that on other cars. There are also other good sources of switched power leading to the radio. I've tapped into there as well. Sorry - I don't know the wire colors for either of those - I just get handy with the voltmeter and figure it out when I'm doing it...

When I say "wire tap" - I'm talking about these things. Which I seem to be going through like TicTacs.
 
  #248  
Old 05-12-2007 | 07:38 AM
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The 12V power outlet in the back may always be hot, but the cig lighter up front is not.

YD
 
  #249  
Old 05-12-2007 | 08:41 AM
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The 12V in both my cabrio boot and front cigarette lighter are not always on (ignition must be at least be in position 1). Fuse F14 has always on power and is for interior lighting.
 
  #250  
Old 05-12-2007 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by BlimeyCabrio
I've tried three styles:
* The 5-LED refractor mentioned above. Had to file additional slots into the housing to have it fit. Too dim.
* The 5-LED high-power matrix - 4 side firing and one front firing high-flux LEDs. Don't require housing mod. Very bright and looks good. Fills the lamp. But fails due to either heat or voltage (may not handle alternator voltage well)
* The 4-LED front firing high-power - No housing mod required, seems to handle heat and voltage well (so far), but is a tighter point of light - but still better than a single LED... pretty bright.
I have tried the 4 LED front firing and the 5 LED refractor (not the high power) and the 4 LED in white were much more blue than the 5 LED refractor so thats what i have in there, however im going to try the 5 LED high power dispite the few people that have said they fail easily, and if that doesnt work im going to either go back to the regular 5 LED or get the angel eyes. But i wonder if you can swap out the LED in the angel eyes to orange ones.
Im actually learning how to wire and stuff and plan on creating LED side indicators, side markers and front parking/turn signals that are FULL LED.
 


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