Interior/Exterior My Best Ergonomic Mod Ever
#28
The only testing I have done is to install it in my MINI and drive it. It is plenty strong. From the passenger's seat, it is hardly noticeable that it is not stock.
Since these are hand made, making one for the passenger side that is an exact mirror image might be hard to get exact, close, but exact maybe hard
I think I'm going to make another one to test different fab techniques. If I ever did consider making some of these to sell, I need to fab them more efficiently. Maybe change the foam or eliminate the foam step and just stretch and bond the fiberglass across the gap, and maybe try out some different resin and cloth. I'm refreshing and relearning my fiberglass and bondo techniques as I go. I haven't done this in a long time.
As for a previous question.... the downtubes are not structural, they are only there for appearance. If you totally removed them, the corners of the heater, radio and switchs are raw and would be exposed.
As for ImagoX's comment.... obviously ImagoX is a young studly dude with a body where the downtube doesn't get in the way of comfort. Wait till he gets old, and has a bunch of grandkids and gets fat and ugly and then we'll see, hehe.
Seriously, up till now, on any drive more than a few minutes, I was constantly trying to find a seating position, front/back slide, back rest tilt, left handle pump up and let down, any combo that caused my right leg to find a comfortable resting spot.... in the past two weeks with my cut out downtube, I don't even think about it anymore... so for me, the mechanical part has been a total success. I'm very pleased.
Now I just need to master the finish. I have at least a dozen cans of various aluminum and silver paint on my bench and none of them are 'right enough' yet.
I would welcome any suggestions. I'm not ready to build a spray booth and get into painting like that yet. Several of you have stated that you would paint them other colors, so primer may just become an option.
I still need ImagoX's blessing or this whole project is doomed, hehe. Of course he would adorn the downtubes with LEDs like a Christmas tree, hehe. Hey, if the LEDs were bright enough, I'll bet you could make them glow from the inside out.... ImagoX, I think I just offered you a challenge?
YD
Since these are hand made, making one for the passenger side that is an exact mirror image might be hard to get exact, close, but exact maybe hard
I think I'm going to make another one to test different fab techniques. If I ever did consider making some of these to sell, I need to fab them more efficiently. Maybe change the foam or eliminate the foam step and just stretch and bond the fiberglass across the gap, and maybe try out some different resin and cloth. I'm refreshing and relearning my fiberglass and bondo techniques as I go. I haven't done this in a long time.
As for a previous question.... the downtubes are not structural, they are only there for appearance. If you totally removed them, the corners of the heater, radio and switchs are raw and would be exposed.
As for ImagoX's comment.... obviously ImagoX is a young studly dude with a body where the downtube doesn't get in the way of comfort. Wait till he gets old, and has a bunch of grandkids and gets fat and ugly and then we'll see, hehe.
Seriously, up till now, on any drive more than a few minutes, I was constantly trying to find a seating position, front/back slide, back rest tilt, left handle pump up and let down, any combo that caused my right leg to find a comfortable resting spot.... in the past two weeks with my cut out downtube, I don't even think about it anymore... so for me, the mechanical part has been a total success. I'm very pleased.
Now I just need to master the finish. I have at least a dozen cans of various aluminum and silver paint on my bench and none of them are 'right enough' yet.
I would welcome any suggestions. I'm not ready to build a spray booth and get into painting like that yet. Several of you have stated that you would paint them other colors, so primer may just become an option.
I still need ImagoX's blessing or this whole project is doomed, hehe. Of course he would adorn the downtubes with LEDs like a Christmas tree, hehe. Hey, if the LEDs were bright enough, I'll bet you could make them glow from the inside out.... ImagoX, I think I just offered you a challenge?
YD
#29
LOL... Actually, I'm NOT a small guy, as the Columbus club can attest...
And I hope you don't think I was slamming you - I just think it looks... ODD. GREAT workmanship, though - you know I luv ya, bro.
Maybe if you added something? If you put something like, say, a peice of grooved black rubber (or even vinyl - I know they make it patterned) into the hollow or something, the it might look less... "carved away" and more "intentional"?
OR - since the down tubes do not provide support (DO THEY? I know the stereo and switch bank bolts to a frame and not the tubes), what about simply cutting them short just below the switch block and capping them somehow? Then you'd have all the space you like and you could use the left-over oval holes for iPod holders, change cups, etc. Would that be an option maybe? Hmmmmmmmmm...
EXAMPLE:
As for lighting the down-tubes... Funny you should mention that. I'll have my dash covers off later this week and it occurs to me that there's TONS of places to stick accent spots inside things... I was actually pondering how to put an accent facing downwards to hit some of the car's more unique interior styling...
And I hope you don't think I was slamming you - I just think it looks... ODD. GREAT workmanship, though - you know I luv ya, bro.
Maybe if you added something? If you put something like, say, a peice of grooved black rubber (or even vinyl - I know they make it patterned) into the hollow or something, the it might look less... "carved away" and more "intentional"?
OR - since the down tubes do not provide support (DO THEY? I know the stereo and switch bank bolts to a frame and not the tubes), what about simply cutting them short just below the switch block and capping them somehow? Then you'd have all the space you like and you could use the left-over oval holes for iPod holders, change cups, etc. Would that be an option maybe? Hmmmmmmmmm...
EXAMPLE:
As for lighting the down-tubes... Funny you should mention that. I'll have my dash covers off later this week and it occurs to me that there's TONS of places to stick accent spots inside things... I was actually pondering how to put an accent facing downwards to hit some of the car's more unique interior styling...
#31
LOL... Actually, I'm NOT a small guy, as the Columbus club can attest...
OR - since the down tubes do not provide support (DO THEY? I know the stereo and switch bank bolts to a frame and not the tubes), what about simply cutting them short just below the switch block and capping them somehow? Then you'd have all the space you like and you could use the left-over oval holes for iPod holders, change cups, etc. Would that be an option maybe? Hmmmmmmmmm...
EXAMPLE:
As for lighting the down-tubes... Funny you should mention that. I'll have my dash covers off later this week and it occurs to me that there's TONS of places to stick accent spots inside things... I was actually pondering how to put an accent facing downwards to hit some of the car's more unique interior styling...
OR - since the down tubes do not provide support (DO THEY? I know the stereo and switch bank bolts to a frame and not the tubes), what about simply cutting them short just below the switch block and capping them somehow? Then you'd have all the space you like and you could use the left-over oval holes for iPod holders, change cups, etc. Would that be an option maybe? Hmmmmmmmmm...
EXAMPLE:
As for lighting the down-tubes... Funny you should mention that. I'll have my dash covers off later this week and it occurs to me that there's TONS of places to stick accent spots inside things... I was actually pondering how to put an accent facing downwards to hit some of the car's more unique interior styling...
Third, I like the idea of cutting the bottom have away to give more room. However that leaves a hole by the cup holders. I wish there was a U shaped piece that would fit in around the radio and heater controls, that keep it factory looking.
Sean
#34
First Matt, you are not that big, no bigger than I. Second, you have plenty of lights...time to work on my car.
Third, I like the idea of cutting the bottom have away to give more room. However that leaves a hole by the cup holders. I wish there was a U shaped piece that would fit in around the radio and heater controls, that keep it factory looking.
Sean
Third, I like the idea of cutting the bottom have away to give more room. However that leaves a hole by the cup holders. I wish there was a U shaped piece that would fit in around the radio and heater controls, that keep it factory looking.
Sean
As for the holes by the cup holders, I see those as a PLUS - line them with a peice of rubber (like the OEM cup holders) and you'd have a pair of iPod sleeves... or a place to install a GPS or Sat Radio receiver... Basically anything you like. Yuo could even use the cut-off peice of down tube as the basis for such a thing - for instance, using a 2" stub as the base for a flexible iPod mount...
#35
As for the holes by the cup holders, I see those as a PLUS - line them with a peice of rubber (like the OEM cup holders) and you'd have a pair of iPod sleeves... or a place to install a GPS or Sat Radio receiver... Basically anything you like. Yuo could even use the cut-off peice of down tube as the basis for such a thing - for instance, using a 2" stub as the base for a flexible iPod mount...
#36
ImagoX,
Never worry about me getting upset at anything from you, bro (insert a big hug and verse of ***-by-yah here)
When I removed the DTs all together, I was not as comfy as when I put the modded DT back in. My knee hit the lower left corner of part that holds the switch panel...it is sharp and pointy.
I have one more left side DT on the bench that I'm going to experiment with this weekend if it warms up a bit.... supposed to be a low of 13F tonight here. I'm already ready for spring. Fiberglass resin and bondo don't like cold weather for setting up. Guess I could fire up the kerosene heater in the garage. I'm also researching ABS/fiberglass bonding chemistry and techniques to make sure I'm using the best stuff for the job.
I like the hot curved metal-mash approach. I'll heat up some metal and see what it does on the cutout piece from the first DT. Wouldn't it be nice if I could fab a jig with an electrically heated thermostatically controlled hot curved piece of metal and then another jig to hold the stock DT at the right angle and then force them together, pull them apart, a little sanding and painting and viola, done. I'm sure it wouldn't be that simple.
BTW, thanks to everyone for all your nice comments... they make me feel good.
My boy 'John the Beast' even stopped by.
YD
Never worry about me getting upset at anything from you, bro (insert a big hug and verse of ***-by-yah here)
When I removed the DTs all together, I was not as comfy as when I put the modded DT back in. My knee hit the lower left corner of part that holds the switch panel...it is sharp and pointy.
I have one more left side DT on the bench that I'm going to experiment with this weekend if it warms up a bit.... supposed to be a low of 13F tonight here. I'm already ready for spring. Fiberglass resin and bondo don't like cold weather for setting up. Guess I could fire up the kerosene heater in the garage. I'm also researching ABS/fiberglass bonding chemistry and techniques to make sure I'm using the best stuff for the job.
I like the hot curved metal-mash approach. I'll heat up some metal and see what it does on the cutout piece from the first DT. Wouldn't it be nice if I could fab a jig with an electrically heated thermostatically controlled hot curved piece of metal and then another jig to hold the stock DT at the right angle and then force them together, pull them apart, a little sanding and painting and viola, done. I'm sure it wouldn't be that simple.
BTW, thanks to everyone for all your nice comments... they make me feel good.
My boy 'John the Beast' even stopped by.
YD
#37
First off - GREAT work! Looks excellent, and I'm sure you'll get the paint right. Check the metallic wheel paint at Pep Boys...
For the melt technique, find out what plastic that the downtube is made of - I'd bet polypropylene or ABS. Then google the melt point or range. You may be able to heat the tube with a heat gun, oven or some such and just push or work it in.
I originally thought you'd carved/sanded some wood... don't laugh, it'd work! Only problem is the last time I did that it was a piece of Poplar from a pallet, and ended up looking like this:
Had to work on something so I wouldn't be tempted to work on my son's Pinewood Derby car... I got Dremel sawdust all OVER the garage! So.. now I have something ELSE to carve up!
Hey - there's an idea - the heck with burlwood plastic trim, let's carve up the real thing!
For the melt technique, find out what plastic that the downtube is made of - I'd bet polypropylene or ABS. Then google the melt point or range. You may be able to heat the tube with a heat gun, oven or some such and just push or work it in.
I originally thought you'd carved/sanded some wood... don't laugh, it'd work! Only problem is the last time I did that it was a piece of Poplar from a pallet, and ended up looking like this:
Had to work on something so I wouldn't be tempted to work on my son's Pinewood Derby car... I got Dremel sawdust all OVER the garage! So.. now I have something ELSE to carve up!
Hey - there's an idea - the heck with burlwood plastic trim, let's carve up the real thing!
#41
#44
Turcicus,
Take a 290 lb, 6 ft plus dude with legs that look like tree trunks and plomp him in the dirver's seat. I don't think a picture would be a pretty sight. Even though I'm a photographer, you'll have to use your imagination.
If you don't bump the DT, then I think I envy your physical size, ... except when I'm walking down a dark street at night.
YD
Take a 290 lb, 6 ft plus dude with legs that look like tree trunks and plomp him in the dirver's seat. I don't think a picture would be a pretty sight. Even though I'm a photographer, you'll have to use your imagination.
If you don't bump the DT, then I think I envy your physical size, ... except when I'm walking down a dark street at night.
YD
#45
Turcicus,
Take a 290 lb, 6 ft plus dude with legs that look like tree trunks and plomp him in the dirver's seat. I don't think a picture would be a pretty sight. Even though I'm a photographer, you'll have to use your imagination.
If you don't bump the DT, then I think I envy your physical size, ... except when I'm walking down a dark street at night.
YD
Take a 290 lb, 6 ft plus dude with legs that look like tree trunks and plomp him in the dirver's seat. I don't think a picture would be a pretty sight. Even though I'm a photographer, you'll have to use your imagination.
If you don't bump the DT, then I think I envy your physical size, ... except when I'm walking down a dark street at night.
YD
#46
This is a topic that my husband and I have pondered also. He's 6'3" and 320+ lbs and never has had that issue. I think I really do need a picture to clear it up in my head. I haven't had that problem with my MINIs either.
#47
I think it may be more of a shape issue than a size issue. I'm 'only' 6'2"/ 205 pounds, with a 36-inch inseam. The outside of my right calf rests against the downtube when I drive. It doesn't bother me, but I can see how it might bother some people.
In my case, the length of my legs keeps me from comfortably fitting both knees under the lowest part of the steering wheel rim. So, I drive with my knees a little bit apart to get them out from under the wheel. I think this is why my right leg rests against the downtube.
There are obviously a lot of people whose legs hit the downtubes, as there are vendors that sell downtube pads for the MINI. Here's a review from MotoringFile, along with comments from a bunch of people that use them:
http://motoringfile.com/2005/08/16/m...mini_knee_pad/
In my case, the length of my legs keeps me from comfortably fitting both knees under the lowest part of the steering wheel rim. So, I drive with my knees a little bit apart to get them out from under the wheel. I think this is why my right leg rests against the downtube.
There are obviously a lot of people whose legs hit the downtubes, as there are vendors that sell downtube pads for the MINI. Here's a review from MotoringFile, along with comments from a bunch of people that use them:
http://motoringfile.com/2005/08/16/m...mini_knee_pad/
#48
If your leg doesn't hit the DT and you have otherwise never been uncomfortable because the DT was there, then I'd say you don't need this mod at all. If you go back to my first post on this thread, it says something about this is only a mod a big person would want to think about it. I really don't see how a big person wouldn't have a need, but everyone has a different body and driving position.
YD
YD
#50
Yes, out of necessity. The length of my legs from the knees down means that even with the seat in its lowest position and the steering wheel in its highest position, I can't keep my knees anywhere close to together without them hitting the underside of the steering wheel. So, my right calf rests against the driver's-side downtube as I'm driving. It doesn't bother me too much, since most of my nerves there are deadened from a motorcycle accident a few years ago, but I can see how it would bother some people - that's why there are vendors selling downtube pads, and people like Yo'sDad modifying their downtubes.