Once I went on a test drive with the Austin dealer today they now can duplicate the not smooth lurching in my GP, but they don't know how to fix it, or even if it might be considered normal by MINI for a 50K miles car.

When driving in say the 3,000 to 3,500 RPM range, especially in 2nd or 3rd gear, when I let off the gas (for example, traffic flow situations), it is when I get back on the accelerator pedal, it can't be done smoothly, there is always an abrupt lurching a bit, enough to head bobble a passenger (yup, you know where that's going, Debbie asking me if I forgot how to drive a stick shift smoothly).

The tech is going to enter it into some kind of PUMA internal MINI service system to see if he can get some feedback on the issue. I already asked if it might be anything related with bad gas, FPR / O rings, SC bypass valve, plugs, fuel pump, motor mounts, intercooler end seals/couplers, fuel filter, bad O2 sensor, reflashing ECU software, or something to do with the new clutch / flywheel assembly that MINI of San Antonio installed. We went through the list, he said none of that would cause the not smooth lurching.

I really would like to get this fixed, and in the warranty period (my 4 years is up in August, and I'm only 250 miles away from hitting the 50K miles mark). I'm the original owner and I'm the only one (besides dealers) who has driven the car, and I know how to treat a car right.

Anybody here have any thoughts on what else this might be? Should I really believe this might be considered "normal" for a 50K miles car?

 

"Should I really believe this might be considered "normal" for a 50K miles car?"

Absolutely not. Get it documented.

 

My 2003 MCS had the similar yo-yo problem that was usually blamed on software and weak bypass valve spring. There are many posts on the Yo-Yo topic. I suspect you will get nowhere with the dealership because Mini has tended not to deal with this known problem.

I also have a GP with 50,000+ miles and it recently started to lurch (yo-yo) under moderate acceleration around 3000-3500 RPM. However my GP never had the yo-yo problem until after four weeks of being in/out of the dealership for warranty repairs. The warranty repairs included a flywheel/clutch replacement (interestingly common to your repair and now problem) and I was also verbally told the car was reprogrammed but there is noting about reprogramming in the paperwork.

I suspect Bypass Valve, Leaking Intercooler Bellows, or Programming. I had not suspected the flywheel/clutch but that is common between are cars and problem so maybe I should add that to the suspect list.

The 2006 MCSs supposedly have a Bypass Valve with a stronger spring than the original MCSs (such as my 2003) so I tend to think it is not the Bypass Valve. I have silicone bellows that look to be on correctly but maybe the dealer cut/tore the bellow during work or the bellow is not installed probably where I cannot see the bellow. It could be that the dealership did reprogram the car and installed a different version of software.

My dealer experience was horrible and MINI USA has not been much help so I do not plan to go back.

I plan to start my troubleshooting by replacing the intercooler bellows with the stock bellows. If that does not resolve the problem I plan to tie the bypass valve shut and drive for a day. If it appears to be the Bypass Valve I might go with a Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve (stonger spring) but that depends on how I like driving the car with the valve tied shut. If not the Bypass Valve I will try to determine if the software was really reprogrammed (try to find out what was orignally installed compared to now). I hope it is not the clutch/flywheel because there is not much I can do about that. I have already been very frusrated with the feel of the new clutch (soft pedal like a R65 not like the GP clutch originally felt) but MINI USA has not helped resolve that problem.

 

Agreed, it should not be normal, and yes the tech went back to the service order and updated the notes to show he was able to repeatedly duplicate the problem.

Yup, new clutch soft, wish I had the old one back. MINI of Austin is still researching the matter to see what they recommend for next step.

 

Yup, I've been experiencing the same thing. In stop and go traffic, if I keep the car in 2nd, let off and then get back on the gas ever so slightly, it'll buck a little. I figured it was normal so I never worried about it.

 

Sounds like a BOV problem? Had a problem with my BOV on my evo and I got the sputtering too. Are there any logging programs for the Mini (I'm new to the Mini)? If so, would someone post 2-3-4 WOT and S&G logs with AFR,knock, timing, and pulse width?

 

Well, MINI of Austin called today to let me know the lurching is to be considered normal. They test drove another customer's R53 JCW earlier this week (around 50K miles on the clock) and said it had worse lurching than my GP. They said they checked all their technical bulletins, researched the matter, discussed it with superiors, and felt it is just a normal part of the aging process. As you can imagine, this is not the driving experience I expect from my MINI, so I will now have to (I guess) start (at my own expense) replacing components (probably first the most likely suspension wear bits 'n pieces) until I get the car back to driving like it used to. I am most disappointed that MINI of USA (through it's dealers) is OK with just throwing up their hands and saying, "gee, we don't know why it's lurching, and you'll just have to live with it."

 

Sorry to hear your dealer's response but that is the typical answer I get from the dealer on most problems I reported under warranty.
Calling MINI USA can help in same cases.
Mini seems to have many design problems that they do not want to resolve especially since the R53 has been replaced by the R56.

 

I'm sure you've seen, but incase you missed it, there's another thread on this subject: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...light=lurching.

 

Try this - I want to know if I'm imagining things: Check your oil level. If it's above full (like when the dealer did an oil change) drain 1/2 a cup or so until the level is in the middle...then clean your PCV valve...and give it about a week...

Btw - mine had similar problem for months...I:
Replaced plugs, plug wires, coil, fuel filter, did Seafoam, cleaned filthy PCV valve, checked for vacuum leaks, zip-tied BPV...little if any change...

Then two weeks ago I checked the PCV valve again - full of oil...Checked oil level...above full...drained some...problem slowly disappeared over the next week - now the car is perfect...

 

Just my 2 cents.
As a New Car Dealership Service Manager for over 20 years, I can tell you the "documentation" of the problem is a myth. All warranty claims are entered via computer. You enter the VIN & the miles. If the car is out of warranty, the claim will be bounced.
If a car is out of warranty, and the DEALER feels that some goodwill should happen, most dealers have a limit that they can use at their whim. Usually $500-$1000 depending on how low their CPV warranties are. Any repair over that amount must be approved by the DSM. And each DSM has different worthiness standards. So, just because you report an issue before warranty, does NOT mean that any warranty repair must be performed 1 day or 1 mile out of warranty.
My suggestion is to take the car to another dealer BEFORE the warranty expires, have them open an RO, and do not pick it up until you are happy with the repair.