JCW 9000rpm engine rebuild has started!!
#126
Based on my calculations you are making about ~270WHP with all the work you have put into the car. No offense, I think someone could pull similar numbers with a bolt on K04 hybrid/WM/Tune without a problem. As JCWs can make up to 250WHP/310WTQ from my experience.
Lots of money, but i am still looking for someone to provide worthy results.
Lots of money, but i am still looking for someone to provide worthy results.
No offense taken. My limiting factor right now is the turbo. The money I spent is basically for lower end strength and upgrades (forged rods, pistons, LSD diff, clutch, etc.). The performance upgrades are Water injection, Alta stage 3, various turbos.
My regret is building a MCS turbo instead of a JCW turbo. I went in circles with the MCS turbo for over a year.
I just bought a 03 MCS with a spun bearing. Working on that now. My next step for the 09 JCW is to install the GT28. I also would like to find a "tuner" that is less then conservative. If I can't get 300+WHP on a Mustang Dyno I will put the car back to Stage 3-4 and sell it.
Ray
#127
Let me describe my GT28RS installation experience for you - a 2007 hatchback ---
*First of all the turbo to manifold bolt pattern doesn’t match. You need an adapter.
*This adapter causes the top oil line (maybe water, I forget) to be too short.
*Oil return line orientation is critical, to prevent contact with the turbo body, melting, and leaking.
*GT28RS is designed for a 3” exhaust - another adapter, unless included in a kit.
*Air inlet is also 3” dia - about twice the OEM size.
*Air outlet is facing the rear, not the side --- another hose coupling.
*Heat shields won’t fit any more, without serious bending / cutting. I removed all mine.
*GT28RS BOV is external so the ECU wants to be connected to either the OEM BOV (removed from the turbo body) or a 12 ohm resistor (which worked for me). I didn’t want to destroy the usefulness of an OEM turbo. Then, where to tie back the OEM BOV connector / harness, with its new 12 ohm resistor?
*You need to decide on BOV placement - before or after WMI jet. And, will the BOV allow WM into the turbo air inlet, if mounted after the WM jet? Assuming you choose to use a closed BOV system, which is most recommended!
*GT28RS Wastegate is activated with a POSITIVE pressure. Mine was preset to 12psi. OEM uses a vacuum. You’ll need a boost controller, one that’s compatible with the WMI fail-safe, then find a place to mount and connect it. Don’t forget to terminate the unused vacuum line.
*If you want to close the hood, material needs to be removed from the hood structure - to allow for a larger turbo body and possibly a relocated O2 sensor, depending on the chosen downpipe. Remove enough to allow for engine torque at high accel. My lower engine mount bushing inserts didn’t help - there’s still a lot of engine movement / lifting in front.
*Then there’s a new dyno tune required to make this new turbo work properly. If you have a light flywheel, there’s a loss of inertia at low rpm’s (low boost) that destroys launch. A new launch speed of 5500rpm in the AP helped for me, but I’m still a novice driver. Typical launch from Alta’s AP is 3500.
*Turbo-Kits was my supplier and MOST of the parts were included - nothing for air inlet, and one elbow / coupling short for air outlet. Downpipe was catless and designed for the GT28RS, but didn’t bolt to the engine as designed. Had to do some exhaust pipe rework to fit the Alta 3” system.
*Most of the grief was finding hose couplings for routing air in and out of the turbo. Tee fittings for the BOV and OCC were especially tough to find. Still want to replace vinyl tees with metal - cleaner looking. That’s what “work-in-progress” is all about!
Ray, you probably already know most of this. I’m just hoping to discourage others from going this route unless they’re ready for a serious time and money investment.
BTW, I’m hoping you keep us informed on progress, results, etc. Looking good so far.
*First of all the turbo to manifold bolt pattern doesn’t match. You need an adapter.
*This adapter causes the top oil line (maybe water, I forget) to be too short.
*Oil return line orientation is critical, to prevent contact with the turbo body, melting, and leaking.
*GT28RS is designed for a 3” exhaust - another adapter, unless included in a kit.
*Air inlet is also 3” dia - about twice the OEM size.
*Air outlet is facing the rear, not the side --- another hose coupling.
*Heat shields won’t fit any more, without serious bending / cutting. I removed all mine.
*GT28RS BOV is external so the ECU wants to be connected to either the OEM BOV (removed from the turbo body) or a 12 ohm resistor (which worked for me). I didn’t want to destroy the usefulness of an OEM turbo. Then, where to tie back the OEM BOV connector / harness, with its new 12 ohm resistor?
*You need to decide on BOV placement - before or after WMI jet. And, will the BOV allow WM into the turbo air inlet, if mounted after the WM jet? Assuming you choose to use a closed BOV system, which is most recommended!
*GT28RS Wastegate is activated with a POSITIVE pressure. Mine was preset to 12psi. OEM uses a vacuum. You’ll need a boost controller, one that’s compatible with the WMI fail-safe, then find a place to mount and connect it. Don’t forget to terminate the unused vacuum line.
*If you want to close the hood, material needs to be removed from the hood structure - to allow for a larger turbo body and possibly a relocated O2 sensor, depending on the chosen downpipe. Remove enough to allow for engine torque at high accel. My lower engine mount bushing inserts didn’t help - there’s still a lot of engine movement / lifting in front.
*Then there’s a new dyno tune required to make this new turbo work properly. If you have a light flywheel, there’s a loss of inertia at low rpm’s (low boost) that destroys launch. A new launch speed of 5500rpm in the AP helped for me, but I’m still a novice driver. Typical launch from Alta’s AP is 3500.
*Turbo-Kits was my supplier and MOST of the parts were included - nothing for air inlet, and one elbow / coupling short for air outlet. Downpipe was catless and designed for the GT28RS, but didn’t bolt to the engine as designed. Had to do some exhaust pipe rework to fit the Alta 3” system.
*Most of the grief was finding hose couplings for routing air in and out of the turbo. Tee fittings for the BOV and OCC were especially tough to find. Still want to replace vinyl tees with metal - cleaner looking. That’s what “work-in-progress” is all about!
Ray, you probably already know most of this. I’m just hoping to discourage others from going this route unless they’re ready for a serious time and money investment.
BTW, I’m hoping you keep us informed on progress, results, etc. Looking good so far.
Ray
#130
im sigining up to watch this as well.... i thought mine was a basket case. i think 6000 rpm would be plenty of rpm... 20 psi of boost should be ok as well for a factory piston. thats prolly what did the motor in cranking the boost up that high i would have to guess. POPCORNNNN POPCORNNN GET'CHA FREE POPCORNNNN HERE !!
#133
Being a ex-machinist building engines for BMW, Porsche and Mercedes I believe our man here needs to learn empirically. So much nonsense is uttered in these forums. Joe blow who reads every hot rod mag can spew info seemingly relevant while stroking his ....,
Please, go for it; make sure the machinist know their stuff.
BTW; 100 hp from 1 litre is safe general rule of thumb.
BMW was getting over 500 hp per litre in the 80's but that engine would last 1 race, if that.
90% of pistons fail due to detonation as result of poor fuel control, heat and cylinder pressures. All interrelated.
Good luck and put the pedal down. I'm interested as I'm sure my JCW motor will go soon.
Please, go for it; make sure the machinist know their stuff.
BTW; 100 hp from 1 litre is safe general rule of thumb.
BMW was getting over 500 hp per litre in the 80's but that engine would last 1 race, if that.
90% of pistons fail due to detonation as result of poor fuel control, heat and cylinder pressures. All interrelated.
Good luck and put the pedal down. I'm interested as I'm sure my JCW motor will go soon.
#134
I like the threat good info being shared, it's good how its suggested specially the water cleaner for this mini engines, I was just about to install my catch can on the jcw is a o nine year, didn't get a chance now my engine has hit the fan kapoofs, no compression cyl one by the driver's side, Im seeing what to do, having it rebuild or grabbing a used engine, good thing one of the two contacts is saying it won't be so so much, it was already using alot of oil about half a quart every three days with trips of around thirty miles daily, the car has a hundred and seven k miles I've been having it around seven months or so, when I purchased it priorly it was rebuild because a bent valve I was told, such a nice car shame I'm in this position 😕, I had at first thought it was a bent valve again, since the timming chain was making a slight sound in the recent months, hopefully my future with this car is better, just sharing a bit of my experience how also being stock this engines are not lasting, thinking a possibility is fitting a n18 or a f56 engine if it was possible without fabricking or soldering here and there if not just n14 will do, any ideas on the stock oem crankshaft max hp, could be I suppose around the 350 like the rest of the internals as is been said before ?.
Last edited by Frederick Reckeweg; 03-05-2017 at 09:59 PM.
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