Major work done again. I will keep it short because it's been along day and many days with many hours put into this car,again.
new longer turbo drain hose , new pan gasket again and had to tap a bolt hole because I stripped one , new oilpump and found my old broken timing guide pieces wedged on the inside of the cover against the chain ( hoping that was source of my hum or my pump ) , 2x new crank seals because the 1st one I installed with grease which is a nono and added oil rite away which is a nono and it went in too far so I had to get a new one and make a tool to install it out of a cup I also cleaned ,1000grit sanded and polished the crank end and timing cover mating surfaces and I also then rotated the crank 4x, new crankshaft pulley , added more wrap to my downpipe, new turbo to downpipe gasket , new vband , got a vacuum gauge pump and set my turbo wastegate to **** at -6vac hg according to what I found on the interweb ( I had it set about 4x turns too aggressive to the right ) I set all my 4x coils to a softer rebound of 14 amd I added duct tape around the threads so they'll be easy to adjustif i need to ever , replaced a front bumper led running light , I adjusted my new endlinks even though the car seemed like it drove ok my tires didn't look even..
I will put oil in tomorrow morning and do a test start and PRAY there no oil leaks or if there is it's very very little.
I filled it up last night after I installed everything and it leaked out past the stripped pan bokt because I couldn't torque it fully so I had to tap it and put in a bigger bokt and I also copper gasket coated the the pan gasket and reinstalled it and evenly and equally torqued all the bolts then. I also won't add oil till tomorrow because the new crankshaft seal says you much wait atleast 4x hours after installing it and it be best to for once give the pan gasket and gasket costing time to set and cure , which I haven't done..
with allllllllllll Ive done im sure I will have to redo soooooomething. I hate these vband clamp too I never get it rite the 1st or 5th time. So now I use exhaust putty on the mating surfaces and then all around the seams of the vband snd crank the bolt till it bends..then it doesn't leak but it's a pita if I gotta remove and reinstall it..
so pray to Mr cooper him self for me guys that I ATLEAST fixed my lower engine hum and hooooooopefully it doesn't leak oil or if it does its so minimal it will be safe amd drive driveable without staining everywhere it would stop. I refuse to drive a leaky car. I'm absolutely NOT THAT guy..
wish me luck guys n gals.. this car has been quite the journey amd quite quickly.

 

 

Thats quite the noise! Glad you found that, but what an ordeal…

 

FAIL...
the *** **** ********* ******* car is still making the hum noise and all i did was make my alignment much worse trying to adjust my tierods again. UUUUGGGGHHHHH.
I THOUGHT it was fixed until i drove it because it isn't as loud now , probably because there's no debris on the pumpchain any more... I wonder if it could be my t.o.b ??? It did rattle from the day it was replaced and it stopped rattling when in nuetral and off the clutch but I got a hum..
I'm going to go to a specific spot on the highway kinda near me because it's a huge hill snd I'm gonna crest the hill at 75 and go into nuetral the whole way down and try and find the cause of the humming. This is pissing me off !!!!! I fear my engine is going to catastrophically explode...
I guess ille consider it some bit if a win because i didnt see any oil leaks yet but im going to check again now that the car was driven a little and sat over night but sofar so good so I'm just keeping my fingers crossed.
I'm gonna try a few times to adjust my tierods again but im probably going to have to find somewhere to get an alignment. Most shops cant do it because theyre too stupid and dont know how to set caster and camber amd understand its not a daily driver and refuse to set the alignment how I request.
sooooooo looks like I'm back to 2nd base and not quite home yet but atleast I'm off 1st base...

 

Omfg this car....
the oilpthebolts continue coming loose just like my manifold nuts were.. WTF !!!!!
I did them all equal ft and correct order.. I put a new gasket I'm WITH copper spray and let it sit 24hr. It literally started leaking after my 2nd drive from bolts coming loose..
F IT !! I'm rtv'Ing the **** on now ,that's it..
I even used locktight to no avail AGAIN..UUUUGGGHHHH
Also while test driving it the other day it bonked out. 2st the past month I'd get an occasional limpmode light but no code or cel and the light would only come on literally fir 5sec and turn its self off and go back to normal. Well the other day it broke up in high rpm and a cel came on that scared the F out of me , it was a tech/clock with an ! next to it and the car had varying rpm from 500-3500 and wouldn't go over 10mph. So I got home and feared it jumped or blew up the timing buuuut luckily all 3x codes were throttlebody codes so I reset the throttlebody parameters snd it was fine UNTIL I gave it full throttle again and it immediately went back into that super gimp mode. Luuuuuuckily I had a new tbody on hand because I had a tbody code long ago BUT never came back until the other day. So I out on new tbody and the cars back to normal. Lol it DID pick up some power and it's very smooth again too so im willing to bet that tbody was junk for awhile but not bad enough to throw codes but it I BET was causing that random limpmode light because it would always do it after I let go of the throttle at random times..
I put in New gear fluid too..
Also my engine hum IS ALOT quieter now ,I actually think I DO have bad hubs and that's the only sound I'm hearing now because once I let off and go I nuetral doing like 70mph and the rpm settle all the way down , the noise absolutely no longer is rpm dependant but it exactly corresponds with my speed.. so new front hubs are en route..

 

You certainly have your hands full with that car!

Might want to reconsider putting that Lucas oil in your gearbox. It isn't rated safe for synchronizer use, as its a GL-5 lubricant. The Mini box needs a GL-4 gear oil, which is safe for use with "yellow metal" (brass / bronze) synchronizers.
https://www.lucasoilcenter.com/shop/...w-90-gear-oil/

Some references:
https://vpracingfuels.com/blogs/tech...s-gl5-gear-oil
https://stores.buy1oils.com/blog-oil...he-difference/

 

I haven't done mine yet, as the clutch was supposedly replaced when I bought the car and I'm at about 26,000 miles. However, I've now developed a whine from the front end in the last 3 days - suspect a bad wheel bearing. New bearings/hubs have been ordered, so my Saturday project is set. I have 2 quarts of Motul Motylgear on the shelf from one of my prior rides, and it's what Motul recommends. Interesting in that their oil states it meets GL-4 and GL-5 specs.

 

It has to do with additives, and whether they claim safe for synchronizers. That Lucas oil has nothing stating it’s safe for synchronizers or GL4, so it shouldn’t be used in the Mini gear box.

 

ille get some redline but the 5x stores i went too unfortunately didn't have any and I thought this would have cut it.

 

I did new gaskets for the oilfilter housing since I over torqued them and I flattened the gaskets too much and it might have Been leaking but my drain hose was FOR SURE leaking because I didn't use the compression clamp and used a wormgear because I felt the compression clamp wasn't tight enough, well, that was a bad idea because the clamp cut through the hose from it thermal expanding..WHOOPS !
Once i know its not leaking from this stuff then I'm yanking off my pan AGAIN and I'm just using rtv around. I primed my system and had my daughter turning the engine over while i looked for leaks and i didnt see any BUT I did see it beginning to weep out from the DAMN pan seal. So im done trying to use seals and going old-school style with it.
I got my alignment fricken purrrrrrrfect too after making it horrible. I adjusted the tierods by eye after 1st install that drove pretty good then i made it so bad the traction control lights came on n stuff lol..so I remembered a trick I did years ago using a chalkline string and plumb line. I wrap strong around the rear wheels and run it upfront and match the front tires to it. I then hang the plumb line to set my caster/camber along with my tool I have for it. Now I don't need an alignment because I can't imagine it driving any nicer than I got it. Last time I did my alignment in my r53 after a bunch new stuff, I had it very good and took it in to have it professionally done just to make sure. Well , I had to take the car back 3x times because it would pull or my steering wheel wasn't centered. Then instead of going back a 4th time I just did the adjustment my self and again,got it much better than tiresnegative (plus) did..
so I'm gonna get out and finish getting everything back together again because my new front hubs should be here today.
my lower engine noise IS gone btw !!! But I DO have bad hub noise im hearing also now but the rpm dependant hum is gone ..now it has a grinding kinda hum that perfectly corresponding to my wheel speed snd NOT rpms..
so hoping the hubs make it quite once again driving..
Lol I sure make more work for my self with this car.
I go to fix one thing but screw up 2x other things while fixing that 1x. Then i fix those 2x things and screw up 3x more.. lol it just snowballs..
Btw , ive had oil drip in my ear ,literally allllll the way in too a few times now , not to mention my eyes.. i now go under with goggles and if I had a raincoat ,I'd wear that too..

 

Sooooo WOW .
I changed my plug gap from .032 ( as they came ) .028
my numbers might not be rite because theyre off the top of my head but there 2x gaps i found listed for my plugs which are the oem jcw ngk R's. And legit , honestly no bs it feels like that car picked up 20hp , easy 20hp too. I can't believe it !
also ooalsoooooo its back to being a nice comfortable drive again , there NOOOOO bad noises any longer. No humming ,no clanking ect NOTHING. The new hubs fixed that last bit of noise I was hearing while driving...
buuuuuuut my damn pan gasket still leaks , that appears to be the only one and it's small so I jammed a towel up against the pan lololol to diaper it. When I install the turbosmart wastegate once it comes and brisk Silver sparkplugs I will drop the pan and rtv that pita on and not worry about it again.
I just cant believe just making my gap in my plugs abit smaller, how much it improved the power delivery of this engine.
I'm really starting to like this car again now that I'm in it and not under it. Its pretty quick and it handles so well. Exp since i softened up the coilovers too. The ride is sooooo much nicer now. Believe it or not ,it a much nucer ride than the oem jcw suspension setup was. Its NOT stiffer or more hardlsh ,if anything it absorbs bumps n puts better than oem BUT still I'd tighter and more planted around corners.
unfortunately it's about at its limit for power until I port ,cam and out better valves into this cylinder head I got BUT I guarantee, I GUARANTEE that's going to really Wake the car up once I can get better flow and higher lift cams to accommodate the larger ports and higher boost I'm running.
sooooo turbosmart wastegate coming real soon guys.
anybody know the gap for the brisk pkugs woth high boost ?
lol kinda guess i hadn't ordered them now but o well.
O yea !! I also went and hit up the local car show back by my old apt in my old town id lived in befor i moved into my house and i ALSO put in the correct rated gear fluid now too.
buuuut why was this gear fluid SO much thicker than the ladt gear fluid i used even thiugh theyre the same weight ???

 

About those plugs... BKR7EQUP (NGK's) I'm not really sure how I got into these, but I've been running them for well over a decade now. They're listed for Porsche's and they're plenty cold, been running them for as long as I've been tuning this car with zero issues. No gapping required!

 

Wrong plug for the 2nd gen vehicles. Those will not fit the N14/N18 engines.

 

I always liked to run the 4 electrode ngk's in my r53 , them or the silver bridt plugs because both the plugs didn't require gapping and I never had an issue with them.
Hopefully these brisk plugs are as good for the r56 as they were for the r53 and I wished they're was a 4x pronged plug for these n14 engines but I haven't found anything that'd work YET but I will keep looking. There's gotta be something.

 

Got a link to this? I've never found anything official, but people throw around the "151.5mm" image a lot, some people say 7inHg, a bunch of people say 15inHg, Lou's testing of a stock/un-****ed-with setup showed 12inHg.
I think there are a lot of people (including me) with these cars with boost issues likely caused by wastegates being adjusted wrong.

 

I'm going to throw this into the mix...
https://www.borgwarner.com/docs/defa...ining_book.pdf

Check page 82. Mentions 2mm of "pre-load" to the wastegate actuator to ensure the valve closes and holds, and to help with any vibration. With that being said, a new factory turbo should be adjust already from the factory. If for any reason that wastegate actuator NEEDS to be adjusted, I would apply ~15 in-Hg to the actuator, then adjust the nuts to give you an additional 2mm of closing pressure on the valve.

That's what I would do...

 

That makes a lot of sense. I mean, I get that the EFR WG functions normally closed/the reverse operation of ours, so it makes sense for preload there.

I think your adaptation makes sense for our stuff.

 

Funny enough, from another thread, Turbosmart's IWG cites 6inHg well:

https://support.turbosmart.com/porta...acuum_Actuator

It's a completely different actuator, but I think seating at 6inHg is seating at 6inHg lol.
Can't seem to find any other references to this though.

Edit:

Also this procedure (For N54, which is fairly different being twin turbo, and mitsubishi turbos iirc) Shows -.5bar (-14.8ish inHg) FOR TESTING and -.2 bar (5.9ish inHg) FOR SETTING for both turbos.
So I'm wondering if this is where some confusion is from? This is still the only official spec I've seen for any vacuum actuated turbo...

https://bmwtechinfo.bmwgroup.com/sib...Attachment.pdf

I've also been looking for Peugeot RC-Z, BMW N13 & N20 procedures but have come up dry. Everything generic I have found for K03s

 

All good information. Based on this information, I amend what I said up there, and would pull 5-10 in-Hg, set the flapper valve, than add the 2mm of preload.

 

Good Lord! @njaremka I completely forgot this is the @MiniManAdam Gen2 project! I'm so used to seeing him climbing around those R53's he was running it didn't occur to me when I was suggesting that. The coffee didn't kick in yet obviously.

 

Wellllllll. An offer came up I'm seriously considering..
it's a cappuccino WITH a widebody n other goodies including built eng making a dang near 100hp lolol. But I've always always wanted an autozam or one of these. Funny thing is I was offered a widebody Honda beat for my last r53 I had but I needed to sell it instead so I had to pass ,so this might be my opportunity to get a dream car and then as a 2nd ripper car , I think it'd be time to get back into an r53 BUT a k r53 or I'm going turbo r53..

 

Autozam & Cappuccino, my top 2 Kei car choices.
Not sure on the widebody, but maybe once painted it would look better.
Bought some parts for my Midget recently & the guy regularly imports Kei cars from Japan. He had a Cappuccino [kept my eyes off it] & a couple others.