MOMs -- need paint treatment advice
#1
MOMs -- need paint treatment advice
OK guys. The new/used MINI support vehicle comes home this afternoon. My question is, what is the best paint treatment for the beast that sits outside under the tree most of the time? (Nearly the same color as the old -- goldy silver). I've always used NuFinish, but I really want it protected... and I don't want to do it more than twice a year.
Should I have it professionally sealed with synthetic... or do it myself or what?
Best product? Zaino? Griot's?
Should I have it professionally sealed with synthetic... or do it myself or what?
Best product? Zaino? Griot's?
#2
Collonite is my Favorite , The Insulator wax will bead for a year even sitting outside in Florida sun (Dads Mini Van) I Washed/detailed it late June last year and I washed it last weekend and it was still beading AND he even uses the drive thru car washes twice a week ...
#4
I like the Detailers Paradise line - Epic is a great synthetic wax. Amy's car sits out for most of the time, and it's still smooth as glass after months of abuse -I only wax twice a year (spring/autumn). When I wax, I also first use clay bar to get all bugs/tar/contaminants out, then move to DP Swirl (polish on the Porter Cable random-orbital), and last the wax. If I have time (and energy) I use two coats of Epic, but really 1 is all you need.
When I wash the car, I use actual car shampoo, which does NOT remove the wax the way that dishwashing soap does. I use DP Hydro on the wet car before drying, which keeps the wax surface smooth and slippery.
Lots of people swear by Griot's, but when I used it it felt like it was leaving behind a haze... DP seems to give a better finished result (IMHO anyway). The real trick is to use the claybar followed by a proper polishing with the random-orbital to remove all traces of oxidation and swirl marks/scratches before applying wax. My red classic was all oxidized - dull and pinkish, but a quick hour with Swirl and the Porter Cable had it shining like a mirror...
When I wash the car, I use actual car shampoo, which does NOT remove the wax the way that dishwashing soap does. I use DP Hydro on the wet car before drying, which keeps the wax surface smooth and slippery.
Lots of people swear by Griot's, but when I used it it felt like it was leaving behind a haze... DP seems to give a better finished result (IMHO anyway). The real trick is to use the claybar followed by a proper polishing with the random-orbital to remove all traces of oxidation and swirl marks/scratches before applying wax. My red classic was all oxidized - dull and pinkish, but a quick hour with Swirl and the Porter Cable had it shining like a mirror...
#5
It all depends on what you bought, without that information and some pictures we can not tell you anything!!!!
I agree with Matt on the process and have been using Griots for a nice look and Zymol for a lasting protection. Zymol does not provide the best shine, actually I think it is kind of crappy as far as that goes, BUT it lasts a long time and does a great job of protecting the paint.
I agree with Matt on the process and have been using Griots for a nice look and Zymol for a lasting protection. Zymol does not provide the best shine, actually I think it is kind of crappy as far as that goes, BUT it lasts a long time and does a great job of protecting the paint.
#7
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#8
You bought an anteater! Just joking I think the front of those looks funny, but they are really nice cars. A co-worker has one and I really like the inside You are going to need a lader to wax that thing
#9
Alf.
It grows on you.. especially when you are behind the wheel. Just back from picking it up. How totally sweet!!
All Subes are ugly these days. There are no options that are pleasing to the eye... so....
2007 -- 24K miles.
It grows on you.. especially when you are behind the wheel. Just back from picking it up. How totally sweet!!
All Subes are ugly these days. There are no options that are pleasing to the eye... so....
2007 -- 24K miles.
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