K24 swap into R53
#103
The following 2 users liked this post by Kr4nG:
Andy_S (11-15-2019),
user 46590 (11-15-2019)
#104
#105
Hey I Kno your post is a little old I been reading up on it and will follow your exact steps on my 2003 baby blue mini S I'm trying to order your exact shifter box and don't find an exact looking one like it to make my project all fall together like your can you share the info please thanks
#106
Hey I Kno your post is a little old I been reading up on it and will follow your exact steps on my 2003 baby blue mini S I'm trying to order your exact shifter box and don't find an exact looking one like it to make my project all fall together like your can you share the info please thanks
#107
The following users liked this post:
thebestbear (03-02-2020)
#108
For those of you that have been asking for any video related to my cooper here it is. Its just the recent work I have done. Clutch upgrade.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElNjWC65FxQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElNjWC65FxQ
#109
The following users liked this post:
thebestbear (03-02-2020)
#110
That is awesome about passing emissions, especially considering it came up with a different car ECU! I used to have a KPRO S2000 and it used an Acura RDX ECU and I'd have to go to specific inspection stations so they wouldn't give issue (also in NJ). I'm in Somerset County NJ and would love to see your beast if you're ever going out to meets or car shows!
#111
That is awesome about passing emissions, especially considering it came up with a different car ECU! I used to have a KPRO S2000 and it used an Acura RDX ECU and I'd have to go to specific inspection stations so they wouldn't give issue (also in NJ). I'm in Somerset County NJ and would love to see your beast if you're ever going out to meets or car shows!
#112
Hey man,
I'm just about to start my K swap here in the UK, following this thread pretty much all the way through. Can you tell me what you did with the wiring from the OEM engine? Take it all out, or did you leave parts of it and splice in? I'll be using a kpro v4 too so I'll order the swap harness. Also, integra drive shafts, were they dc2 or dc5 shafts?
Amazing build and amazing to read!
I'm just about to start my K swap here in the UK, following this thread pretty much all the way through. Can you tell me what you did with the wiring from the OEM engine? Take it all out, or did you leave parts of it and splice in? I'll be using a kpro v4 too so I'll order the swap harness. Also, integra drive shafts, were they dc2 or dc5 shafts?
Amazing build and amazing to read!
#113
Hey man,
I'm just about to start my K swap here in the UK, following this thread pretty much all the way through. Can you tell me what you did with the wiring from the OEM engine? Take it all out, or did you leave parts of it and splice in? I'll be using a kpro v4 too so I'll order the swap harness. Also, integra drive shafts, were they dc2 or dc5 shafts?
Amazing build and amazing to read!
I'm just about to start my K swap here in the UK, following this thread pretty much all the way through. Can you tell me what you did with the wiring from the OEM engine? Take it all out, or did you leave parts of it and splice in? I'll be using a kpro v4 too so I'll order the swap harness. Also, integra drive shafts, were they dc2 or dc5 shafts?
Amazing build and amazing to read!
Passenger DC5 non type s axles swapped inner cups with driver dc5 non type s axle. It give you extra length. That will go onto your right side of vehicle. And driver or passenger dc2 axle will go onto your left side of car.
#114
OEM bmw engine harness gets completly removed. The only harness that will stay is the secondary body harness. That has wires for the power steering pump and your starter signal. I tapped in my starter signal through that wire. So my key works like OEM going through the security box.
Passenger DC5 non type s axles swapped inner cups with driver dc5 non type s axle. It give you extra length. That will go onto your right side of vehicle. And driver or passenger dc2 axle will go onto your left side of car.
Passenger DC5 non type s axles swapped inner cups with driver dc5 non type s axle. It give you extra length. That will go onto your right side of vehicle. And driver or passenger dc2 axle will go onto your left side of car.
I wonder if the EP3 axles would work then (far easier to get here) they're 32 which I believe the base rsx are too? The type s/r shafts are 36.
Thanks for the info, the mini is being stripped back nicely 👍🏼
#115
OEM bmw engine harness gets completly removed. The only harness that will stay is the secondary body harness. That has wires for the power steering pump and your starter signal. I tapped in my starter signal through that wire. So my key works like OEM going through the security box.
Passenger DC5 non type s axles swapped inner cups with driver dc5 non type s axle. It give you extra length. That will go onto your right side of vehicle. And driver or passenger dc2 axle will go onto your left side of car.
Passenger DC5 non type s axles swapped inner cups with driver dc5 non type s axle. It give you extra length. That will go onto your right side of vehicle. And driver or passenger dc2 axle will go onto your left side of car.
Hey man. I'm having trouble with the driveshafts.
Did you use the mini hubs with dc2 outer CV's connected to dc5 inners? My passengers (your driver's) dc2 shaft is a little too long and I can't work out why. Cheers!
#116
Anybody thought about working with OP to put together a detailed parts spreadsheet?
Started a Google doc if anyone wants to contribute
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...t?usp=drivesdk
I think you could get some of it based on the postings here. As the previous reply said getting exact part number for the driveline seems critical to me.
Shift box may just be a matter of sourcing a few options with the same bolt pattern. Was the one OP used meant to go in factory TSX location? If so maybe another TSX box would work.
Some of it is custom, I know a few people in CT. Got a guy for plasma cutting, and might know a guy for TIG weld. There are job shops if not. Would not need a detailed scan to make mounts, just accurate measurements. I have access to CAD software, would be pretty easy to model.
Problem with making a kit is having enough of a market to cover your fixed costs. My CNC plasma guy and whoever would do the welding both have fixed minimums. Have to source material etc. Welding is not too bad if you have the right equipment. Could even just supply bare sheet metal and leave it to the purchaser to weld.
Could also be a good candidate for an R56 with blown engine.
Started a Google doc if anyone wants to contribute
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...t?usp=drivesdk
I think you could get some of it based on the postings here. As the previous reply said getting exact part number for the driveline seems critical to me.
Shift box may just be a matter of sourcing a few options with the same bolt pattern. Was the one OP used meant to go in factory TSX location? If so maybe another TSX box would work.
Some of it is custom, I know a few people in CT. Got a guy for plasma cutting, and might know a guy for TIG weld. There are job shops if not. Would not need a detailed scan to make mounts, just accurate measurements. I have access to CAD software, would be pretty easy to model.
Problem with making a kit is having enough of a market to cover your fixed costs. My CNC plasma guy and whoever would do the welding both have fixed minimums. Have to source material etc. Welding is not too bad if you have the right equipment. Could even just supply bare sheet metal and leave it to the purchaser to weld.
Could also be a good candidate for an R56 with blown engine.
#119
The following 2 users liked this post by Errk:
ricardiini (04-14-2021),
zrickety (02-11-2021)
#120
OEM bmw engine harness gets completly removed. The only harness that will stay is the secondary body harness. That has wires for the power steering pump and your starter signal. I tapped in my starter signal through that wire. So my key works like OEM going through the security box.
are you getting all of the ecu required wires from the secondary connector (ie. Ignition, starter, ground)? Do you have a working MIL?
Finally, does the hood require any trimming? Does it close without issue?
#121
What about the O2 sensor? Are you using all of the Mini relays or did you wire in relays per Hondata instructions? Did you remove the mini obd2 connector or are you using both the Honda and the mini?
are you getting all of the ecu required wires from the secondary connector (ie. Ignition, starter, ground)? Do you have a working MIL?
Finally, does the hood require any trimming? Does it close without issue?
are you getting all of the ecu required wires from the secondary connector (ie. Ignition, starter, ground)? Do you have a working MIL?
Finally, does the hood require any trimming? Does it close without issue?
Im using the primary O2 sensor from honda only. Im using the "any chassis swap harness" so it has 3 relays Fuel/Main/O2 relay prewired. I am using some of Minis original wiring for the relays. So im using the A/C clutch relay, and radiator fan relay. Im not using the mini obd2 connector but I used the wires to get from the cabin to the engine bay without running wires. The swap harness comes with the obd2 connector. That is used so I can pass my state inspection. No issues there. I have a working Mil and Oil light. I soldered those wires manually to the LED bulbs in the cluster.
#123
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