Project: Grumpy. Saving a 2003 MCS
#78
Thanks! We're really pleased with how Grumpy is coming together. He's come a long way with a lot of elbow grease over just a short few months! Fuel economy has come back up where it should be since the spark plug change, and low end response is much better now, too. Need to pick up an SC service kit once the clutch is done as it has probably never been serviced.
#79
#81
It's a Valeo single mass stock replacement, nothing fancy. None of the standard stock replacement setups would honor the warranty unless the flywheel was replaced with the clutch, so this seemed like the best option. Also have fresh fluid for the trans along with some LiquiMoly super slippery additive. I'll post pics and report on how well it shifts after the deed is done.
#82
#85
Lol! He will probably always be a little Grumpy. His dash rattles, his exhaust baffles are broken, the driver's seat has seams that are pulling...it will be quite some time until he is completely "sorted." But, that's what makes it fun, having lots of little things to tinker with.
Gettimg setup at the shop, this Valeo kit is really nice. Good quality, all the fasteners, etc. Let the games begin!
Gettimg setup at the shop, this Valeo kit is really nice. Good quality, all the fasteners, etc. Let the games begin!
#86
#90
#91
I do, now. I've done plenty of jackstands/on my back work in the past. Did the lift kit on my 95 Wrangler on jackstands, all 4 leaf springs, ugh!
Grumpy's clutch is all buttoned up. I got more focused on finishing as the day wore on, but I did take some pics along the way. Clutch feels really good, trans is a bit smoother, we'll see with time how it goes. Someone had been in there before. One of the old pressure plate bolts had the e-torx head broken off and I had to drill it to remove it. At least I didn't have to worry about the stub of it in the flywheel! Also one of the bell housing bolts was only finger tight. :facepalm: All in with removing the headlight washer reservoir and repairing the radiator carrier was about 8 hours. Still ridiculous for a FWD clutch job, and it books out at 11.2 hours! Paying someone would have cost us more than we paid for the car! Some of the bushings on the shifter assembly at the trans are a bit worn, and I wish I could have refreshed them while I was in there.
Old, fried clutch. Hot spots everywhere on both the flywheel and PP.
New single mass setup all torqued down.
Repair to the radiator carrier. A metal plate and some bolts, then some Q Bond (on both sides) of the vertical crack. Much better than before!
Grumpy's clutch is all buttoned up. I got more focused on finishing as the day wore on, but I did take some pics along the way. Clutch feels really good, trans is a bit smoother, we'll see with time how it goes. Someone had been in there before. One of the old pressure plate bolts had the e-torx head broken off and I had to drill it to remove it. At least I didn't have to worry about the stub of it in the flywheel! Also one of the bell housing bolts was only finger tight. :facepalm: All in with removing the headlight washer reservoir and repairing the radiator carrier was about 8 hours. Still ridiculous for a FWD clutch job, and it books out at 11.2 hours! Paying someone would have cost us more than we paid for the car! Some of the bushings on the shifter assembly at the trans are a bit worn, and I wish I could have refreshed them while I was in there.
Old, fried clutch. Hot spots everywhere on both the flywheel and PP.
New single mass setup all torqued down.
Repair to the radiator carrier. A metal plate and some bolts, then some Q Bond (on both sides) of the vertical crack. Much better than before!
#94
We haven't really done anything since the clutch. We are starting to have some low/rough idle issues at times, but it's far from consistent. He is about due for an oil change, so he's gone about 5,000 miles since we got him back in February. As soon as funds allow I really do need to order up a S/C service kit and get that taken care of, though.
#95
How are you liking the clutch now that has been in a bit?
Maybe injectors need cleaning or fuel filter needs replacing? Our ‘04 has begun to not wanting to start up on the first turn of the engine like it used to. It now spins a bit before firing (it has new plugs). Seems to run ok after it starts. So I am curious what you come up with on your issue, even if it isn’t quite the same.
Maybe injectors need cleaning or fuel filter needs replacing? Our ‘04 has begun to not wanting to start up on the first turn of the engine like it used to. It now spins a bit before firing (it has new plugs). Seems to run ok after it starts. So I am curious what you come up with on your issue, even if it isn’t quite the same.
#96
Clutch is great. Very smooth, light pedal feel, nice positive engagement.
The idle issue isn't always at startup, it happens when warm just as often, like sitting at a red light sometimes. I've also had times where I started to pull out and seemed to have a delayed throttle response. I pull out and just keep pushing the throttle deeper and get no response for 2 or 3 seconds, it just puts along at idle speed. Very frustrating when you are trying pull out into traffic. I did clean the TB back when I replaced the bypass valve.
The idle issue isn't always at startup, it happens when warm just as often, like sitting at a red light sometimes. I've also had times where I started to pull out and seemed to have a delayed throttle response. I pull out and just keep pushing the throttle deeper and get no response for 2 or 3 seconds, it just puts along at idle speed. Very frustrating when you are trying pull out into traffic. I did clean the TB back when I replaced the bypass valve.
#97
In days of past when everything was mechanical and no computers I would have say bad fuel pump or bad accelerator pump in the carburetor. But today I am relegated to spending the big bucks at the dealer (not bad doing that as I like them). Hope you figure it out without too much of a problem.
I found it really interesting as to how much the clutch feel changed on my JCW from new to now. It now feels more like the one in my 2012 S. It is nice now. I didn’t realize how much a clutch really needs the bedding-in. I wonder what they do in race cars?
I found it really interesting as to how much the clutch feel changed on my JCW from new to now. It now feels more like the one in my 2012 S. It is nice now. I didn’t realize how much a clutch really needs the bedding-in. I wonder what they do in race cars?
#98
Today started with a much needed wash. The silver wheels looked more like anthracite from the brake dust. Also cleaned all the windows outside to remove water spots, and tossed a quick coat of wax on the headlights, roof, and A pillar trims. Doing the roof just made me realize how bad it really is. Scratches, chips, and just lots of contaminants. I really should have clay barred it before that.
Next I dove into more tint removal. I started with the driver's door to at least make him balanced. Well, it's a bloody hot day and it peeled so easily I continued as it was all scratched up and faded. It all came off very easily, however I think the back pulled the entire defroster grid (and I fear antenna) with it. The car looks much cleaner back to fish bowl status, but it will likely get fresh tint down the line.
The other thing I noticed after pulling the trim off the hatch is that the hatch is where the water has been coming in. It poured out when I opened it after washing the car, and the inside of the main trim seems to indicate its coming in around the rear wiper or the plate light housing.
You can see the rust and water marks in the center of the trim panel.
Next I dove into more tint removal. I started with the driver's door to at least make him balanced. Well, it's a bloody hot day and it peeled so easily I continued as it was all scratched up and faded. It all came off very easily, however I think the back pulled the entire defroster grid (and I fear antenna) with it. The car looks much cleaner back to fish bowl status, but it will likely get fresh tint down the line.
The other thing I noticed after pulling the trim off the hatch is that the hatch is where the water has been coming in. It poured out when I opened it after washing the car, and the inside of the main trim seems to indicate its coming in around the rear wiper or the plate light housing.
You can see the rust and water marks in the center of the trim panel.
#100
Got it all cleaned up and resealed. Problem now is one of the plate lights had been exposed for too long and has succumbed to corrosion. I fought with them a bit when we got the car to get them both to work, but now it appears the right one has given its all. Time to start looking for a replacement assembly, as these lights aren't exactly easily replaced individually. Hopefully I can find one in Liquid Yellow over the next 8 months.