FS:: W11 Engine - Long Block
#1
W11 Engine - Long Block
Category: Brakes
Price: $1000
Private or Vendor Listing: Private Listing
Part fits (you may select multiples): R52, R53
Location (Region): Midwestern
Item Condition: Used
Engine was originally bought from Allmag Auto (still on their original pallet) and they can vouch for condition. If not, I can show my conversations with them if you have any concerns. I just don't believe they'll let me return it. If interested, I can also add in a discounted head gasket and ARP head studs, oil pan gasket, and I think a few others as well since I won't be using them.
Item is currently located in Hodgkins, IL. Will be transported to NW Chicago suburbs within the next few weeks.
#3
Mileage is unknown. I didn't bother to ask about what year it came out of. Can we tag people into a thread here and maybe they can check their records for the year? I wasn't necessarily looking for a super low mileage example, just a good one. Leakdown and compression showed it probably has a bad head gasket and the head could probably use a once over. I replaced my head last year due to bad head gasket so I figured I'd just mate my good head to this, refurbish this head and sell or sell for core. So I ordered the long block, bought ARP studs, head gasket, oil pan gasket, OFHG, and possibly a few other things to refresh the seals.
Reasoning is going to make me look silly... I was dealing with a low oil pressure light which eventually was diagnosed to a leaky/bad oil pressure switch. I replaced the switch and topped up the oil and then heard a crunch and knocking. Thinking I spun a rod or bearing due to oil starvation, I got it towed to my mechanic. After it sitting for about 5 weeks, he started it up and couldn't replicate the noise. Eventually diagnosed it as a water pump knocking super bad as it was about to fall apart. If interested, I had posted about that issue on here so you can see exactly what I was going through.
Convo:
Reasoning is going to make me look silly... I was dealing with a low oil pressure light which eventually was diagnosed to a leaky/bad oil pressure switch. I replaced the switch and topped up the oil and then heard a crunch and knocking. Thinking I spun a rod or bearing due to oil starvation, I got it towed to my mechanic. After it sitting for about 5 weeks, he started it up and couldn't replicate the noise. Eventually diagnosed it as a water pump knocking super bad as it was about to fall apart. If interested, I had posted about that issue on here so you can see exactly what I was going through.
Convo:
#7
I thought it was carbon buildup. Valve guides don't really go bad unless the valve seat leaks and exposes the guide to direct heat, right?
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#8
I was questioning why #2 specifically of the previous post.
Valve guide is a wear item. I subscribe to that valve guide seal is likely the primary cause of rapid deterioration. In the old days, these seals were made of rubber formulations that do not stand up to extreme heat well, especially the exhaust ones, and harden over time - often when the car reaches 45k and a few years. I infer the ones in our Mini seems to last much, much longer.
Valve guide is a wear item. I subscribe to that valve guide seal is likely the primary cause of rapid deterioration. In the old days, these seals were made of rubber formulations that do not stand up to extreme heat well, especially the exhaust ones, and harden over time - often when the car reaches 45k and a few years. I infer the ones in our Mini seems to last much, much longer.
#9
I reason that valve seat deterioration is the last link in the chain. Valve guide seal > valve guide wear > valve seat.
The guide is to keep the valve center, but when it is worn the valve face and seat face don't mate properly. It is especially bad for exhaust valves which relies the short duration to transfer some heat to the cylinder head. My understanding of heat transfer may be outdated. Metallurgy has evolved significantly so it is possible that modern exhaust valve alloy can withstand the constant exhaust heat without the need to dissipate the heat.
Speaking of which F1 valves are most incredible in the numbers of heat and mechanically stress. Fascinating stuff. And they use pneumatic valve springs.
The guide is to keep the valve center, but when it is worn the valve face and seat face don't mate properly. It is especially bad for exhaust valves which relies the short duration to transfer some heat to the cylinder head. My understanding of heat transfer may be outdated. Metallurgy has evolved significantly so it is possible that modern exhaust valve alloy can withstand the constant exhaust heat without the need to dissipate the heat.
Speaking of which F1 valves are most incredible in the numbers of heat and mechanically stress. Fascinating stuff. And they use pneumatic valve springs.
Last edited by pnwR53S; 04-05-2018 at 10:22 AM.
#11
Thanks for getting back to me. I'll pass on this one, I'm looking for something low miles that I can stick right in. I'd be interested if I was looking for a good base to build something. Good luck with moving it.
#12
My machinist, Harold, states it is the heat. Most of the heads that he has done the seals are cooked even in low mileage (40-50K) cars and the exhaust guides leak. Harold's been doing this for about 50 years. http://www.haroldsautomotivemachineshop.net/?_rdr
#13
Bump. Allmag will allow a return less a 10% restock + shipping. I'll be setting the shipping up with them next week, but for now if someone wants a great deal it's $900 + shipping. Unlikely to find a complete engine for that price.
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