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First the chase wears you down, then it’s scooped up before you can even contact the seller. I swear the really solid JCWs are gone in a day or two. Sometimes I think settle for just an “S” and mod the crap out of it, but I’m too old to be getting involved with all that. I like to mod aesthetically, not mechanically. I am particular and patient, but this is getting ridiculous.
that’s what I like to see, from other more obscure sites other than FB and CL. But $10k for 125k miles, More like $8500 and a quick wash lol. Keep em coming, appreciate it.
First the chase wears you down, then it’s scooped up before you can even contact the seller. I swear the really solid JCWs are gone in a day or two. Sometimes I think settle for just an “S” and mod the crap out of it, but I’m too old to be getting involved with all that. I like to mod aesthetically, not mechanically. I am particular and patient, but this is getting ridiculous.
LOL my girlfriend is laughing because you are describing my pain and here I thought I was the only one. A fellow NAM member shared a really nice '13 BRG JCW the other day but the dealer tried to offer me a crazy low amount as a trade and the car was gone like 2 days later. So now the plan is to just sell my car so I'm ready to pounce. I'm within biking distance from work and my gf has a car so I figure I'll save money too.
LOL my girlfriend is laughing because you are describing my pain and here I thought I was the only one. A fellow NAM member shared a really nice '13 BRG JCW the other day but the dealer tried to offer me a crazy low amount as a trade and the car was gone like 2 days later. So now the plan is to just sell my car so I'm ready to pounce. I'm within biking distance from work and my gf has a car so I figure I'll save money too.
I think you’re gonna get more use out of that bike than you planned lol. Hopefully this thread gets sparked up for a while so we can all find our r53s.
Solid pepper white too, seems like a lot of these came with black roofs for some reason. Headliner coming loose, oil leaks in the usual places, needs a clutch but apparently still driveable. Not a bad price point for a rust-free SoCal starter...
I know we've discussed in the past on this thread relating to BaT values versus real world values, but I really do think that now the R53 value curve is on the upswing,
or perhaps not --- perhaps it's just a matter of the low-mileage examples on the rise?
Anybody have thoughts regarding R53 current market values?
Solid pepper white too, seems like a lot of these came with black roofs for some reason. Headliner coming loose, oil leaks in the usual places,
needs a clutch
but apparently still driveable. Not a bad price point for a rust-free SoCal starter...
Relevant to looking for that "PRIZE LCI-GEN1 JCW" on CL/FB/BAT/ETC..... 90% of them "need a clutch" .... most of them just don't say anything about it or "I'm not sure, but I think it had a clutch at one point installed".... A clutch costs between $1200 for a Cheap job with a SMF... and $3500-$4000 using OE parts and tending to all details... Thats a big deal to me... I've seen 25K-mile cars that need a clutch... and 100k miles on original clutch that don't.... It's is a "Big Deal" (of course, if you can do a quality job, using quaility parts... it is much cheaper... especially if you enjoy the work
BAT, seems to get higher prices for cars... but still in the used late model Toyota Camary price-bracket.
IMO.... the Clean S-models are often overlooked even though they are often far superior in terms of condition than many "JCW Finds"... most of which in the Gen1 bracket were simply 'modded' at the dealer with hop-up parts from MINI after the sale. To me... the Aero bits, worn out shocks, and driven hard mentality of most (but to be fair, not all) JCW's out there just aren't worth it to me.... and they are really never going to be true high collector cars that exceed their purchase price.... I've yet to see one that has sold for more than it was puchased for...the only ones that were close were GP's....Even the best Goodwoods and WC50's don't approach their original sales price... those are pretty nice rides !!
If I had a choice between an "S" in great shape... or a "JCW" that was not... easy choice for me.
A rust AZ, NV, CA "S" is worth more to me than a JCW from NY or MI that has gone through a winter.... even worth shipping it at some cost.
Find a low mile "S" ... in the color combo you want... Theres PLENTY out there with lower mileage and great maint records.... put some Mods on it and have fun !!
It's funny to me... the point of the owner or buyer on modded minis... every owner thinks their mods are well done, or "tasteful"...most buyers will think the car has been thrashed... but when they become a "seller" everything is perfect. The truth lies between in MOST cases... but again, not "all".
I was lucky to buy an "S" with JCW bits all over it from a member here... for a bargain compared to what I would have had to invest in the same car.... I did my research, talked to seller, asked for pics and documentation... and in the end... I got a better car, IMO, than the best on BAT at a fraction of the price... Go figure.
Drive it… have fun with it… maintain it… and don’t sweat that these cars will generally have the same value as used KIA in the end... even the JCW's.
If it has an accident in it's history... and can show that it was a fender bender (hood, front fender, rockers, doors)...no worries... If It has had the hood and bumper resprayed by a competent body shop.... all the better. Has the clutch been replaced... great! focus more on the parts used and the shop doing (or a talented enthusiast).
BAT is generally well funded buyers, ready to go, will to pay a premium for a particular model in close to pristine condition, and usually with some service history. It’s a good gauge to see what someone will pay for a vehicle with no stories. The more expensive the vehicle, the more is expected.
unfortunately Mini Coopers are at the low end of vehicles listed there, so values there are not necessarily real world values for a run of the mill JCWs.
Honestly if an 06 JCW popped up there that had the exact spec I was looking for, I’d probably be all in. But just as happy finding one on my own. It’s kinda like my second job lol.
IMO.... the Clean S-models are often overlooked even though they are often far superior in terms of condition than many "JCW Finds"... most of which in the Gen1 bracket were simply 'modded' at the dealer with hop-up parts from MINI after the sale. To me... the Aero bits, worn out shocks, and driven hard mentality of most (but to be fair, not all) JCW's out there just aren't worth it to me.... and they are really never going to be true high collector cars that exceed their purchase price.... I've yet to see one that has sold for more than it was puchased for...the only ones that were close were GP's....Even the best Goodwoods and WC50's don't approach their original sales price... those are pretty nice rides !!
If I had a choice between an "S" in great shape... or a "JCW" that was not... easy choice for me.
A rust AZ, NV, CA "S" is worth more to me than a JCW from NY or MI that has gone through a winter.... even worth shipping it at some cost.
Find a low mile "S" ... in the color combo you want... Theres PLENTY out there with lower mileage and great maint records.... put some Mods on it and have fun !!
.....
Drive it… have fun with it… maintain it… and don’t sweat that these cars will generally have the same value as used KIA in the end... even the JCW's.
Just my 2¢ FWIW.[/QUOTE]
you bring up some great points!! I’m in that O5/06 JCW search; however, there’s a solid chance it’s been dogged and not well cared for, where a nice S has had all service up to date and comes off as a better deal. I’m also torn between the GP-1 for sale on here. I can buy it... but there’s some admin things kinda holding up fully pulling the trigger on it. The GP would be more of a selfish buy, since I won’t have rear seats for the kids. But it’s one heck of a beautiful car with plenty of very nice modifications and a well documented History with proof of everything the car has been through. So that’s also knowledge that gives peace of mind. Not having history on a 14-15 yr old car that we all know was driven hard at some point or lost points of its life could be a nightmare for someone who doesn’t deal with these on a daily basis.
if I were a mini mechanic, I would have any fears of getting a car with higher mileage and maybe need for some tlc. But I’m not and my search is trying to find that S or JCW that doesn’t need much tlc and won’t break my budget. My budget is that 5-6k range.
he has all the paperwork for the work he has done to it - “I’ve done all of the major maintenance. So the serpentine belt, alternator, fuel pump, that sort of thing. As well as mods. Such as coil overs, exhaust, new wheels etc. so a little bit of both”
he’s asking 5500. Probably could come off of that some too.
“The GP would be more of a selfish buy, since I won’t have rear seats for the kids”
I believe there’s a rear seat conversion for that, go ahead and spoil yourself lol.
Great deal for those with cash at the ready and a West Coast location.
2012 Goodwood 129k (minor accident - missing exhaust tips etc and needs a passenger seat airbag sensor) BUT the price is only $8000!
I’d jump on this in an instant if I was closer as this would be the perfect daily driver Goodwood, which I could only imagine being the most plush and go-kart like commuter ever.
Solid pepper white too, seems like a lot of these came with black roofs for some reason. Headliner coming loose, oil leaks in the usual places, needs a clutch but apparently still driveable. Not a bad price point for a rust-free SoCal starter...
ive reached out to this guy. That price seems really low. Maybe it needs about 3-4K in repairs. But, maybe the repairs it needs I could do and I could end up having a fun little project car?? It would just have very high mileage. I mean... I’m guessing the guy would take less than 2300 since he said OBO.
UPDATE:
he said he had to file for a new title as he couldn’t find it or lost it?? That seems sketchy... maybe it happens more common these days? Anyways. I don’t like the mileage on this one. So probably gonna pass.
Last edited by SydeShowJoe; 09-06-2020 at 10:05 PM.
additions including: - Retrofitted bluetooth and usb/charging cable (discreet installation) - OMP Upper brace - OMP Lower brace - GP Inspired aftermarket gauge covers - LED converted day time running lights - LED converted interior/exterior lights - Ociari hood scoops - JCW alcantara shifter - JCW side skirts
Recent maintenance (within the year) includes: - New clutch (December) from Madness Mini, a reputable company in the mini world and located in Tigard. - New brakes and rotors - Replaced engine mount - Wheel speed sensors
Older maintenance includes: - New tires - New gas pump - New control arm bushings
Car needs an oil change and could use a detail. Paint is still in great shape. Roof wrap is a bit swirled .
09-04-2020, 07:59 PM
A clutch costs between $1200 for a Cheap job with a SMF... and $3500-$4000 using OE parts and tending to all details... Thats a big deal to me... I've seen 25K-mile cars that need a clutch... and 100k miles on original clutch that don't.... It's is a "Big Deal" (of course, if you can do a quality job, using quaility parts... it is much cheaper... especially if you enjoy the work 
