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Year: 2006 Make: MINI Model: Hardtop Price: $1 Mileage: 100 Color: red Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing Location (Region): Midwestern
Originally Posted by RedSky455
No.
This is not someone unfamiliar with these cars, or how to mod them. Doubtful he's clueless what a JCW is worth vs an S vs an R50 in this market.
Some other troubling things about the ad:
>As previously stated, no VIN. Easy enough to photograph in several places - right side near the strut tower, windshield, door jamb. Registration and title. Craplist even provides a field specifically for it.
>No photo of the JCW Kit serial badge or certificate, which is a treasured artifact for pre-2006 cars because they were all dealer retrofits not factory installed. Signed by Mr. Cooper himself too.
>Long list of mods and add-ons, recent and older maintenance including a clutch job in December, and mentions a roof wrap but he couldn't be troubled to change the oil or detail the car before posting the ad: >"Car needs an oil change and could use a detail."
What th-?
- No VIN - agree it's easy, but many, many people on craigslist are just too lazy to bother listing VIN
- No photo of JCW badge under hood - agree, this is an easy one and should be automatic if you are claiming JCW
- Car needs oil change and detail -- yep, makes him sound lazy and an unmotivated seller...but he just bought a new car (impulsively?) and may just be done with the MINI and want to unload it, and he has priced it accordingly.
While noteworthy, none of these are real "red flags" that scream SCAM to me, but more likely indicative of a lazy seller. Just my $0.02.
I'm still not convinced he's legit based on that low price alone, but the first one to call might just have gotten a steal.
how would we know if a factory installed LSD was on an 05? Or was that an add on for 05’s back then? I’m curious to learn the little nuances with Mini VINs.
Yes, the 2005 model year was the first year for the LSD option and it would show 2TA or S2TAA depending on the decoder. AFAIK, the LSD was never available as a dealer add on. Also not sure if the factory built ’06+ JCW shows the LSD option separately from 3AL on a decoder.
While noteworthy, none of these are real "red flags" that scream SCAM to me,
Ok I'll cut to the chase. I'm thinking he's hiding something, just big enough of a problem he can't fix it or it's uneconomical or a nuisance. Strategy is quick sell to some thirsty schmuck sight unseen out of state, later claim "it never had that rod knock when I drove it, must be something you did" when the buyer is righteously indignant after discovering the issue. Conveniently too late at the other end of a $1500 coast to coast shipment of course. Think about it this way - if he was going to sell that car in the condition claimed for $2500 to someone local, he already would have done it. That's why he's waiting.
how would we know if a factory installed LSD was on an 05? Or was that an add on for 05’s back then? I’m curious to learn the little nuances with Mini VINs.
It would show up like this one on a 2005 R53 S (likely the same for a 2006): LSD code S2TA
Looks like S2TA is another code variant along with 2TA and S2TAA depending on the decoder. It should show up on 2005-2006 (2008 for R52S) if ordered. This is from a 2006 Checkmate:
That 06 JCW for 2700 shows pending. The guy never replied to my emails and even my FB message. Maybe he gave up replying to everyone and sold to first come first serve. Or maybe you’re right!! Out of state buyer purchased sight unseen and took the gamble. Either way, it wasn’t meant to be. But I’ve got options galore and maybe I find a solid choice well within or even under my budget.
At $2700 for a car with that runs much less a mini ... even if it needed a clutch and engine work .... worth it ... that’s a ‘parts car’ price ...
Justa/S/JCW ...
my two centavos
Last edited by mountainhorse; 09-08-2020 at 07:54 PM.
If you don’t have mechanical abilities ... or shop/tools ...project cars shouldn’t be considered ...
if that’s you ... you’ll need to find a car that has been maintained really well .... I’d say 120k miles or less .... and with a verifiable maintenance history...
low mile cars in the Gen1 category.... are at least 14 years old (save a few convertibles) .... old gaskets ... old grease old old old .... so the ‘low mile’ doesn’t hold much weight in my book unless they can show history and maint...
imo you’ll find a better deal on an ‘s’ than you will on a JCW... heck.... I’ve seen som pretty shoddy ‘JCW’ s that we’re delivered that way NEW from the dealer that ‘dealer/modded’ it with the permission of the factory & buyer (AKA pre 2006 ‘real JCW’)
PLENTY of nice ‘s’ models out there to be had at better prices... but hey, if you gotta have a ‘real’ JCW ... more power to ya...
If you don’t have mechanical abilities ... or shop/tools ...project cars shouldn’t be considered ...
if that’s you ... you’ll need to find a car that has been maintained really well .... I’d say 120k miles or less .... and with a verifiable maintenance history...
low mile cars in the Gen1 category.... are at least 14 years old (save a few convertibles) .... old gaskets ... old grease old old old .... so the ‘low mile’ doesn’t hold much weight in my book unless they can show history and maint...
imo you’ll find a better deal on an ‘s’ than you will on a JCW... heck.... I’ve seen som pretty shoddy ‘JCW’ s that we’re delivered that way NEW from the dealer that ‘dealer/modded’ it with the permission of the factory & buyer (AKA pre 2006 ‘real JCW’)
PLENTY of nice ‘s’ models out there to be had at better prices... but hey, if you gotta have a ‘real’ JCW ... more power to ya...
.
... geeeze ... dude ...
.... You kinda sound snarky at then end about anyone wanting a JCW....
I would like one, given the performance differences; but, I don’t have to have one?!?!?
if the right S is available... then it’s the route I take.
heck, someone said it perfectly on here - “you don’t choose the right mini, the right mini chooses you”
I think that you should get whatever you want.... really good JCW's are, from what I've seen, mostly around the $10k Mark or higher in good shape with good maintenance and a verified good clutch. Finding a good shape GEN1 JCW for $4500 could happen... but you really don't see them that much or in the same area you may live in. "Barn finds" do happen... but not so often these days with CL/BAT/Ebay/FB etc out there.... heck, the purpose of this thread !!
For me, cars with rust are not worth my time... I'd rather find a clean CA, AZ, NV car with a blown engine than a 'rust belt' car with a new engine... but I can do some wrenching in my shop, which may not be an option for many. I'd rather have a salvage title car than a car with rust around the hatch/taillights/underbody.
The one posted above for $2700.... if you were looking for JCW was a great price...even if it needed some serious work on engine or other mechanical... IMO.
The performance part is easy... Take an "S", just bolt on some FSD's and an inexpensive swaybar, make sure bushings and strut/shock mounts are in good shape... and it will trounce a factory JCW in the corners....... especially since most of these Gen1's suffer from aging rather than just mileage. If the engine is healthy on an "S" ... replace that aging belt, and tensioner... and bolt on a pulley... you'll get 95% of the way to a JCW power level right there.
There are high mile 'cream puffs' in great shape... and low mile cars that are hammered and vice versa. Shocks/Struts/bushings/gaskets will be aged similarly in most models of this generation... and there are those examples for sale that have had a life time of good maint by a caring enthusiast ... those are the cars to have.
Accident history, that can be verified and not involving the main shell... I'm fine with that too... hoods, doors, bumpers, front-fenders,... some small paint work... just fine IMO... That only matters, again IMO, on higher value collector cars.
An engine that has had some good work done on it... VC gaskets, timing chain, supercharger service (off car), regular oil changes with good quality oil that does not leave deposits, clutch that has been done with quality parts (I like the OE DM flywheels, but that is personal pref)... if a car is sorted out well... will give you lots of enjoyment.
I'm sure you'll find the right one... there are TONS of good ones to be found and they pop up regularly if you keep looking.
Are you buying to drive daily, at the track... both?? Are you looking for a show car? Collector item that does't get used (aka trailer queen)?
Get the best you can afford... and enjoy it... however you want to own it !
2005 Mini Cooper · S Hatchback 2D $5,899 Driven 140,000 miles Manual transmission
Selling my baby blue Mini Cooper-S Car is in excellent shape
Some mods to make the car more enjoyable.
Clean title
Car has stayed in the family for its whole life.
Both owners
Brand new p zero summer tires
Full detail done and ready to go
Dm me for questions about mods or any other concerns.
2006 Mini Cooper S JCW - $10,750 (Oro Valley, AZ) Odometer 72,67
Mini Cooper S JCW edition (R53) This John Cooper Works edition car is a rare package supercharged edition that was only available as a factory installed option for 2 model years from 2005-2006. This Mini is a perfect example of a well maintained original with no accident car history and only 76,xxx original miles . She is an Arizona car that was bought at Mini of Scottsdale in June 2006 ($32,150 MSRP, nearly $42,000 in today’s dollars) and has the following original installed options;
John Cooper Works Kit 210 HP Supercharged Engine (+42 Hp over the S model) JCW Sound Kit with Cat-back Exhaust +3 Hp Premium Package Sport Package 6 Speed Manual Transmission Brembo Brakes Upgraded Suspension Interior Surface Body Color Leather Trimmed Seats White Roof and Mirror Caps Panoramic Moon Roof Steering Wheel Controls Auto Climate Control DSC Stability Control 17” Alloy Wheels in White Zenon Headlamps Limited Slip Differential, Center Armrest Passenger Seat Height Adjust In-dash CD Player Auxiliary Fan Chrome Line Interior Anthracite Headliner
This beauty has had over $10,000 in service and replacement parts installed recently to put her in tip top running condition, including; Major Tune up and Tires New Brakes, Rotors, Master Cylinder New Factory Clutch and Accessories Rebuilt Front Suspension Rebuilt AC Components The paint is original and is great shape with some small Arizona rock chips, AutoCheck vehicle history report available. This was the last year for the supercharged Mini Coopers, in 2007 they went to a turbos. According to ProfessCars™ estimation this Mini is capable of accelerating from 0 to 60 mph in 6 sec, from 0 to 100 mph in 15.1 sec, and the quarter mile drag time is 14.6 sec. I have seen these cars advertised recently for up to $14,500, asking $10,750 obo. Please CALL and leave a message if you are interested. Thank you.
Last edited by mountainhorse; 09-09-2020 at 05:48 PM.
I'm sure you'll find the right one... there are TONS of good ones to be found and they pop up regularly if you keep looking.
Are you buying to drive daily, at the track... both?? Are you looking for a show car? Collector item that does't get used (aka trailer queen)?
Get the best you can afford... and enjoy it... however you want to own it !
Good luck!!
.[/QUOTE]
Thanks Mountain! Yeah, slight misread on my part. But that’s text, email, forums. Sometimes intend behind a message is lost and misunderstood. I get where you’re coming from now and really appreciate the info/knowledge you shared.
im looking for a fun weekend driver that I won’t kid doing a little work to. I know how to turn a wrench and have mama he’d to do minor to some complex repair jobs. No, I can’t service an AC or do the major things a certified ASCE mechanic is best used for; but; I’m not afraid to do some more myself.
the car will not be my sole transportation and I don’t intend to find a perfect, accident free car. As you eluded to, a car with the right service history is probably a better option than a low mileage car, which may seem optimal; but in reality, just means it’s still waiting on those costly maintenance intervals.
im going the patient route. I’ve found a few N Eastern cars and even some in my Western area. It’s been hit or miss with FB posters. I think some are valid and others just piles of junk they’re trying to dump.
FB post - 04 BRG MCS. 130k miles and asking 3600$. My fear is the AC not taking a charge and the “undiagnosed” Sound near the supercharger and/or timing chain assembly??
Our discussions: Looks like most if not all service was done by his uncle (a mini enthusiast). I asked about supercharger service, water pump, timing chain, service and maintenance history. He said “everything has been serviced/replaced at the correct mileage intervals”. Now whether that’s just a blind answer or not, it’s what he said. Car looks really clean and well optioned! He is also willing to take car to dealer for a PPI if I order one.
his price isn’t really flexible... I think 5500 is his bottom right now. Which I think is a fair price on it; if, it truly has all the right service and maintenance done. I don’t know?? I would have to drive 6 hrs to see it.
I’d be a lot more motivated if the car was around 4700-ish.
but I’m open to the forums thoughts? It’s a really nice classic color with the light blue shade it gives off.
mountain - I saw his ride on FB!! I’ve been in touch with him. Here’s the here’s the VIN: WMWRE33535TL14584
Our discussions: Looks like most if not all service was done by his uncle (a mini enthusiast). I asked about supercharger service, water pump, timing chain, service and maintenance history. He said “everything has been serviced/replaced at the correct mileage intervals”. Now whether that’s just a blind answer or not, it’s what he said. Car looks really clean and well optioned! He is also willing to take car to dealer for a PPI if I order one.
his price isn’t really flexible... I think 5500 is his bottom right now. Which I think is a fair price on it; if, it truly has all the right service and maintenance done. I don’t know?? I would have to drive 6 hrs to see it.
I’d be a lot more motivated if the car was around 4700-ish.
but I’m open to the forums thoughts? It’s a really nice classic color with the light blue shade it gives off.
SSJ, since you asked for input, here's mine. I've owned a couple of R53 Minis. Keep in mind, though, my thoughts are only worth what you pay for them!
General: Car appears to be clean, but he's at pretty much top dollar for a 140K mile S, IMO. I would not expect it to need anything significant at this price.
1. Have you run a Carfax? Any accidents or anything that looks funny? Should be able to get some sense that it was in a single family and not multiple owners if you do that.
2. Can he scan and send you a documented list of services done - date/mileage/what was performed/cost of parts if possible, etc even if all DIY'd by his uncle? If he doesn't have something readily available, then that is worth absolutely nothing in my book and is similar to buying a car with no records or known maintenance.
3. Do you like the color? If so, that's a big plus. I don't think it is one of the more popular colors, though unique.
4. Do you like the wheels? If so, that's a plus. They run a very low profile tire, so the ride will be much harsher and you'll have to be more careful if you have a lot of pot holed roads where you live. They have curb rash. Me - I'd prefer stock wheels, so this is a negative. Personal preference.
5. If you've made it thus far.... schedule a FaceTime or Zoom call with owner. Have him walk you completely around the car, start it up, demonstrate that everything works, ask your questions then and there. This will tell you a lot.
6. Seriously interested now? Pay to have a thorough local PPI done. Ask them to thoroughly check out mechanically and look at body for any obvious issues. Get a detailed written report. This may cost you $150-200. I suggest doing this before you drive 6 hours to see the car, because if it needs $1-2K (or whatever your number is) in repairs, then it's a deal breaker and you just saved yourself the time and cost of driving, gas, lodging and disappointment. And if it doesn't pan out, you'll be glad you spent the $150 to save yourself thousands.
7. Have him scan and send you copies of current registration and ownership (pink slip) to show it's clean and unencumbered.
8. If it all checks out, then Paypal a small deposit and drive to see or buy the car.
I hope this helps. Bottom line - there are a lot of things you can do from a distance to rule it in/out before you incur the cost to go see it.
You owe me $0.00.
Good luck!
SSJ, since you asked for input, here's mine. I've owned many cars, including a couple of R53 Minis. Keep in mind, though, my thoughts are only worth what you pay for them!
General: Car appears to be clean, but he's at pretty much top dollar for a 140K mile S, IMO. I would not expect it to need anything significant at this price.
1. Have you run a Carfax? Any accidents or anything that looks funny? Should be able to get some sense that it was in a single family and not multiple owners if you do that.
2. Can he scan and send you a documented list of services done - date/mileage/what was performed/cost of parts if possible, etc even if all DIY'd by his uncle? If he doesn't have something readily available, then that is worth absolutely nothing in my book and is similar to buying a car with no records or known maintenance.
3. Do you LIKE the color? If so, that's a big plus. I don't think it is one of the more popular colors, though unique.
4. Do you LIKE the wheels? If so, that's a plus. They run a very low profile tire, so the ride will be much harsher and you'll have to be more careful if you have a lot of pot holed roads where you live. They have curb rash. Me - I'd prefer stock wheels, so this is a negative. Personal preference.
5. If you've made it thus far.... schedule a FaceTime or Zoom call with owner. Have him walk you completely around the car, start it up, demonstrate that everything works, ask your questions then and there. This will tell you a lot.
6. Seriously interested now? Pay to have a thorough local PPI done. Ask them to thoroughly check out mechanically and look at body for any obvious issues. Get a detailed written report. This may cost you $150-200. I suggest doing this before you drive 6 hours to see the car, because if it needs $2-3K (or whatever your number is) in repairs, then it's a deal breaker and you just saved yourself the time and cost of driving, gas, lodging and disappointment. And if it doesn't pan out, you'll be glad you spent the $150 to save yourself thousands.
7. Have him scan and send you copies of current registration and ownership (pink slip) to show it's clean and unencumbered.
8. If it all checks out, then Paypal a small deposit and drive to see the car.
I hope this helps. Bottom line - there are a lot of things you can do from a distance before you commit to driving to see it.
You owe me $0.00.
Good luck!
hey WGJP,
thanks for the helpful advice. Yeah. I was already thinking those things; however, the guy is actually helping to sell for his cousin. So for him to quickly answer my questions with broad generic strokes, I kinda felt he was trying to up sell the car based on its cosmetic pluses and just vaguely pointed out all service had been done. Even said I could check s cardiac report to show no accident and get history on the car. All info I already knew.
he mentioned two other people were interested in the car, so who knows.
the mileage and firm price already have my spidey senses tingling... does that mean it’s not worth 5500?? No, there’s a chance this car fully checks out. I intend to watch it and see what happens. I have another one that is local (60k miles - i posted it up there) that I will look at. At least I can place my hands and eyes directly on it.
i agree on the color, it’s unique.. but not my fave. I’m actually a fan of BRG, the darker blue, and the darker greys. I like the mini to have some character to it... stripes, checkers, etc. the plain looking ones are meh.. but if their price is wow, then I can always get a wrap or decals added.
thabks again for the help!
i actually found another BRG, but it’s price is over 6k. Low miles and looks really clean.
I like the color.... and there are plenty of electric blue R53's out there.
Wheels are quality Nuespeed from NM-Eng... about $1600 in wheels and tires... though there is some 'rash' on them.
The P-Zeros are STICKY and will wear faster than many tires out there... as most 220 tires will.
At 140K.... even if the best driver was careful with the clutch all the time.... The clutch is suspect for me.... and at the end of it's service life....
Did they indicate a new clutch had been installed at some point?
For me that JCW in AZ is pretty nice taking into account the expensive PM on the car that you will not have to pay for.
I like the color.... and there are plenty of electric blue R53's out there.
Wheels are quality Nuespeed from NM-Eng... about $1600 in wheels and tires... though there is some 'rash' on them.
The P-Zeros are STICKY and will wear faster than many tires out there... as most 220 tires will.
At 140K.... even if the best driver was careful with the clutch all the time.... The clutch is suspect for me.... and at the end of it's service life....
Did they indicate a new clutch had been installed at some point?
For me that JCW in AZ is pretty nice taking into account the expensive PM on the car that you will not have to pay for.
.
also some great points Mountain. Those sticky tires will wear down quickly. I think they are typically good for 5-10k maxxx. Probably closer to the 5! Lol. Yeah, cosmetically, car is nice and I’m starting to expect curb rash on many wheels, especially teeth marks from tire machines and what not. I just don’t know about the car after discussions with the guy. Why can’t his cousin sell it, since he’s the owner. Nowadays, everyone has some form of sos ISL media or outlet to the internet...
the car in AZ is very nice. However, Red is my least fave color. I just don’t go for Res sports cars. Too cliche for me.
SSJ, I say you just get what you really want...that 17k mile BRG JCW coming up on BAT. You’d have no regrets other than chunky car payments every month lol.
SSJ, I say you just get what you really want...that 17k mile BRG JCW coming up on BAT. You’d have no regrets other than chunky car payments every month lol.
yeah... chunky car payments. Not what I want. I set aside cash for what I would like to get. If I can’t find what I want in my price range - 3-4K (needs some work) 4-5k (needs little work) or 5-6k (needs gas)
then I keep looking. Lol.
I did find this... annnnd, as usual, it’s an Oregon car. Hahaha.
09-07-2020, 10:02 PM
