Navigation & Audio Floor pan por favor? Sound proofing road noise
#26
01-24-2009 | 07:50 PM
#27
01-24-2009 | 09:27 PM
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 6
From: Pipe Creek, Texas
Be sure to have your ducks in a row:
extra clips
tools
don't forget exterior spots
the engine firewall
the dash
hollow spots
crazy spots
shroud the back of the tail lights
the doors
glove box
fresh air box
boot hatch panel
boot hatch
speaker box
area behind seat
behind panels and boot deck
and insulate the battery box. Pad anything that may buzz
That includes placing felt tape in cracks around the speaker screens and all plastic to plastic panel contact points. Somone mentioned the downtubes on the sides of the head unit, to remove them the center console with the cup holders must be removed and they slide out from the bottom. I put adhesive backed felt around the tubes where they would contact the console, to where only the edge could be seen when assembled, and on the styrofoam base to keep that from squeaking, and slid the tubes back up. The channel under the chassis, above the heat shield, is a must-do spot, especially forward the shifter box. A second thermal barrier layer on top of a viscoelastic sound deadener layer is extra effective.
extra clips
tools don't forget exterior spotsthe engine firewall
the dash hollow spots crazy spots shroud the back of the tail lights
the doors glove boxfresh air box
boot hatch panelboot hatch
speaker box area behind seatbehind panels and boot deck
and insulate the battery box. Pad anything that may buzz That includes placing felt tape in cracks around the speaker screens and all plastic to plastic panel contact points. Somone mentioned the downtubes on the sides of the head unit, to remove them the center console with the cup holders must be removed and they slide out from the bottom. I put adhesive backed felt around the tubes where they would contact the console, to where only the edge could be seen when assembled, and on the styrofoam base to keep that from squeaking, and slid the tubes back up. The channel under the chassis, above the heat shield, is a must-do spot, especially forward the shifter box. A second thermal barrier layer on top of a viscoelastic sound deadener layer is extra effective.
#28
01-24-2009 | 10:08 PM
Wow, awesome work.............simply awesome. 
Did you do this in stages, like I seem to be doing, or just take it all apart and resign to being down for awhile?
In a few places it seems like you sealed the mat seams with some aluminum tape. Is that just for the purpose of neatness, or are you worried about the edges peeling up or something? I thought about doing this as well, but could not come up with a good reason to do so.
Also, did you line the inside of the battery box completely? It is clear that you did the top area, but did you go all the way down the sides including the floor of the box? So far I have stopped at the level where the ground cable is attached.
Are the plastic interior trim pieces vibrating and introducing noise? I did not do any of the plastic panels, is that important?
I am going to go back to the doors and add some closed cell acoustic foam directly behind the speakers. Should do the same for the rear speakers. This should help some of the bad reflections bouncing around and should provide cleaner sound from the speakers.
Good idea on the extra clips, luckily I did not break any, but very well could have. Definitely get some spares.
I took care of the taillights as well. I believe it is important, and it is likely often overlooked.
Did you do this in stages, like I seem to be doing, or just take it all apart and resign to being down for awhile?In a few places it seems like you sealed the mat seams with some aluminum tape. Is that just for the purpose of neatness, or are you worried about the edges peeling up or something? I thought about doing this as well, but could not come up with a good reason to do so.
Also, did you line the inside of the battery box completely? It is clear that you did the top area, but did you go all the way down the sides including the floor of the box? So far I have stopped at the level where the ground cable is attached.
Are the plastic interior trim pieces vibrating and introducing noise? I did not do any of the plastic panels, is that important?
I am going to go back to the doors and add some closed cell acoustic foam directly behind the speakers. Should do the same for the rear speakers. This should help some of the bad reflections bouncing around and should provide cleaner sound from the speakers.
Good idea on the extra clips, luckily I did not break any, but very well could have. Definitely get some spares.
I took care of the taillights as well. I believe it is important, and it is likely often overlooked.
#29
01-24-2009 | 11:27 PM
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 6
From: Pipe Creek, Texas
Yes, over a few years, cover one area and holes or gaps in coverage become evident. There are more applications than I have photos of.
Applying tape over edges keeps things clean, I’ve had custom flooring in the past, high heat can cause goop to ooze and stick to anything laying over it, including side panels etc, plus any time you put your hand down while working in the area goop would stick to the palms. Take the time to tape edges to prevent a mess later.
In the battery box, there is a viscoelastic layer on the bottom and sides plus thermal insulation on the sides. The battery box becomes very hot, and heat is as bad as cold for doing a slow kill to a battery.
The oval recess in the door panel is a good place for lightweight sound deadener. That spot can vibrate like a drum or Tibetan Monk chant. The air box under the glove box is another spot for worthwhile plastic coverage. Actually, there’s not been a spot I didn’t think made a difference.
Before placing anything behind the door speakers, run the window up and down to see what kind of clearance you have. A better solution would be to put covers over the back of the speakers. Crutchfield has them; they will keep water off the speaker cones and reduce cancellation.
If you are not aware of this, it is very important surfaces be completely grease free. I use denatured alcohol and lint free towels to clean before putting anything down.
Applying tape over edges keeps things clean, I’ve had custom flooring in the past, high heat can cause goop to ooze and stick to anything laying over it, including side panels etc, plus any time you put your hand down while working in the area goop would stick to the palms. Take the time to tape edges to prevent a mess later.
In the battery box, there is a viscoelastic layer on the bottom and sides plus thermal insulation on the sides. The battery box becomes very hot, and heat is as bad as cold for doing a slow kill to a battery.
The oval recess in the door panel is a good place for lightweight sound deadener. That spot can vibrate like a drum or Tibetan Monk chant. The air box under the glove box is another spot for worthwhile plastic coverage. Actually, there’s not been a spot I didn’t think made a difference.
Before placing anything behind the door speakers, run the window up and down to see what kind of clearance you have. A better solution would be to put covers over the back of the speakers. Crutchfield has them; they will keep water off the speaker cones and reduce cancellation.
If you are not aware of this, it is very important surfaces be completely grease free. I use denatured alcohol and lint free towels to clean before putting anything down.
#31
01-25-2009 | 08:20 AM
Yes, over a few years, cover one area and holes or gaps in coverage become evident. There are more applications than I have photos of. For me, this work goes very slowly.
Applying tape over edges keeps things clean, I’ve had custom flooring in the past, high heat can cause goop to ooze and stick to anything laying over it, including side panels etc, plus any time you put your hand down while working in the area goop would stick to the palms. Take the time to tape edges to prevent a mess later.
You are definitely right about the mess, there is always a little bit sticking out the edge that likes to stick on anything and everything. Did you find an aluminum tape that has the same temp range as the mat? Update..... I just found some of that high temp foil tape online.
In the battery box, there is a viscoelastic layer on the bottom and sides plus thermal insulation on the sides. The battery box becomes very hot, and heat is as bad as cold for doing a slow kill to a battery.
Here I am wondering about the heat again. How hot does it get, meaning too hot for the butyl rubber product? I would think that the thermal insulation has a higher temp range but it is on the cooler side of the viscoelastic product. I would think the temps are low enough that it likely doesn't matter.
The oval recess in the door panel is a good place for lightweight sound deadener. That spot can vibrate like a drum or Tibetan Monk chant. The air box under the glove box is another spot for worthwhile plastic coverage. Actually, there’s not been a spot I didn’t think made a difference.
I am definitely not going to accuse you of skimping.
Before placing anything behind the door speakers, run the window up and down to see what kind of clearance you have. A better solution would be to put covers over the back of the speakers. Crutchfield has them; they will keep water off the speaker cones and reduce cancellation.
Yes, that sounds like a better solution, thanks.
If you are not aware of this, it is very important surfaces be completely grease free. I use denatured alcohol and lint free towels to clean before putting anything down.
Good tip, you want the product to stick today and forever.
For me, this work goes very slowly.Applying tape over edges keeps things clean, I’ve had custom flooring in the past, high heat can cause goop to ooze and stick to anything laying over it, including side panels etc, plus any time you put your hand down while working in the area goop would stick to the palms. Take the time to tape edges to prevent a mess later.
You are definitely right about the mess, there is always a little bit sticking out the edge that likes to stick on anything and everything. Did you find an aluminum tape that has the same temp range as the mat? Update..... I just found some of that high temp foil tape online.
In the battery box, there is a viscoelastic layer on the bottom and sides plus thermal insulation on the sides. The battery box becomes very hot, and heat is as bad as cold for doing a slow kill to a battery.
Here I am wondering about the heat again. How hot does it get, meaning too hot for the butyl rubber product? I would think that the thermal insulation has a higher temp range but it is on the cooler side of the viscoelastic product. I would think the temps are low enough that it likely doesn't matter.
The oval recess in the door panel is a good place for lightweight sound deadener. That spot can vibrate like a drum or Tibetan Monk chant. The air box under the glove box is another spot for worthwhile plastic coverage. Actually, there’s not been a spot I didn’t think made a difference.
I am definitely not going to accuse you of skimping.
Before placing anything behind the door speakers, run the window up and down to see what kind of clearance you have. A better solution would be to put covers over the back of the speakers. Crutchfield has them; they will keep water off the speaker cones and reduce cancellation.
Yes, that sounds like a better solution, thanks.
If you are not aware of this, it is very important surfaces be completely grease free. I use denatured alcohol and lint free towels to clean before putting anything down.
Good tip, you want the product to stick today and forever.
Also, I wanted to ask about those 2 very large vents in the lift over just under the hatch. I have read that some have stuffed them and then closed them off. Is that advisable? What do they do, besides let in a bunch of exhast noise?
Last edited by mini_racer; 01-25-2009 at 09:17 AM.
#32
01-25-2009 | 09:33 AM
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 6
From: Pipe Creek, Texas
The vents allow cabin pressure an exit, close a door with the vents blocked off and you’ll see how tightly sealed the cabin is. Imagine driving with the AC on a hot day, close the vehicle up in direct sun light, hours later the cold air has expanded a major amount, and crack goes the window. I leave mine uncovered most of the time, but when I had no seats, I would position a packing blanket over them on long trips. I do have all the open space, not directly in the way of the vents, stuffed with insulating material (formed in packets), including the C pillars, there is a barrier dividing the vents also.
Last edited by k-huevo; 01-25-2009 at 05:28 PM.
#33
01-25-2009 | 12:10 PM
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Bronx, NY & Westchester, NY
k-huevo:
good god man. i have never seen something so fantastic. i'm not sure if i believe in "god"... but god bless you! that borla exhaust is sexual, too.
everyone: i was never very popular in grade school... (nor am i particularly popular now) but if those punks could see me now they would most likely beg and plead to spend just a minute of time with me... given my ability to generate a NAM thread that has 10+ responses. that's right baby... i take extreme pride in the fact that my NAM thread has actually gotten some hits. thanks for the posts. i will now go back to having no life.
i posted a video or two on the youtube. here they are:
http://www.youtube.com/kerikino
and here's the video on the door soundproof. just a quickie, and a completely lackluster job in comparison to the work of the gods like k-huevo:
#35
01-25-2009 | 04:35 PM
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Bronx, NY & Westchester, NY
thanks. it doesn't make me seem like too much of an ***? i realize it isn't uber thorough, but i felt a video was needed for people like me... who can be... textually-impaired. i work better visually, so seeing things happen in real time helps an enormous amount, even if it isn't super precise.
ps: who is that woman? i see her everywhere. (i see yor posts everywhere)
pps: update on progress... i'm going to pull the passenger side seat out tonight in the warehouse, and try some of the cheaper, peel and seal roofing butyl on the floor pan and firewall and save the better stuff for more delicate areas.
ps: who is that woman? i see her everywhere. (i see yor posts everywhere)
pps: update on progress... i'm going to pull the passenger side seat out tonight in the warehouse, and try some of the cheaper, peel and seal roofing butyl on the floor pan and firewall and save the better stuff for more delicate areas.
Last edited by nabeshin; 10-29-2009 at 12:07 AM. Reason: i mussed up
#36
01-25-2009 | 06:07 PM
Nice video and dog.
Any takers on post #18? Please help me understand the value of vibration damping the plastic fender liners. To me it would seem that sound deadening would yield a better result. Or maybe even putting the damping butyle rubber mat material on the outside of the wheel wells and would be hidden by the plastic liners?
Any takers on post #18? Please help me understand the value of vibration damping the plastic fender liners. To me it would seem that sound deadening would yield a better result. Or maybe even putting the damping butyle rubber mat material on the outside of the wheel wells and would be hidden by the plastic liners?
Last edited by mini_racer; 01-25-2009 at 06:47 PM.
#37
01-25-2009 | 09:15 PM
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,731
Likes: 0
From: Anaheim, CA
I thought that the goal was to dampen the metal panel vibrations, thereby eliminating the noise that is transmitted to the cabin.
How can adding the vibration dampening products do that if they are not in contact with the sheet metal that is vibrating?
BTW, I just put some of this self adhesive sheet material (actually roll) in/on my doors, the rear hatch, and in the boot. It seems to have made a significant difference. I ended up stuffing some high density foam to close off the giant holes required to access the taillights, and the venting holes at the hatch lift-over. No adhesive used there so easily reversible if need be.
I would expect that doing the wheel wells would be very helpful, but doing the wheel well lining is just not the same and it is not intuitive that it could be of significant value???
How can adding the vibration dampening products do that if they are not in contact with the sheet metal that is vibrating?
BTW, I just put some of this self adhesive sheet material (actually roll) in/on my doors, the rear hatch, and in the boot. It seems to have made a significant difference. I ended up stuffing some high density foam to close off the giant holes required to access the taillights, and the venting holes at the hatch lift-over. No adhesive used there so easily reversible if need be.
I would expect that doing the wheel wells would be very helpful, but doing the wheel well lining is just not the same and it is not intuitive that it could be of significant value???
#38
01-25-2009 | 10:28 PM
Once you are in there, might as well do any sheet metal in sight, particularly around the suspension attachment points.
That way you can reduce both airborne noise (through the liners) and vibration transmitted by the suspension to the body - that will be my strategy, if it ever warms up here again...
That way you can reduce both airborne noise (through the liners) and vibration transmitted by the suspension to the body - that will be my strategy, if it ever warms up here again...
#40
01-26-2009 | 08:28 AM
#41
01-26-2009 | 08:35 AM
I'll take a shot. My goal for that region is to deaden road noise from the tires. Liners first for a sound barrier. I will also see what body regions can have product applied that could serve both as a vibration damper and noise blocker. The liners are attractive for me since it looks an easy process to remove them.
Of course, now you have to go and buy more stuff.
#42
01-29-2009 | 07:47 PM
1st Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Just a word of advice. I have dynamated my whole car. The road noise was a little less but not much. Dynamat products and the like are made to stop vibration and have little to do with road noise.
You need to get other sound deadners that are made of foam and vinyl. When I added these to my car there was a big difference. Check out this link to get more information about sound deadning. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
You need to get other sound deadners that are made of foam and vinyl. When I added these to my car there was a big difference. Check out this link to get more information about sound deadning. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
#43
01-30-2009 | 12:39 PM
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,731
Likes: 0
From: Anaheim, CA
Just a word of advice. I have dynamated my whole car. The road noise was a little less but not much. Dynamat products and the like are made to stop vibration and have little to do with road noise.
You need to get other sound deadners that are made of foam and vinyl. When I added these to my car there was a big difference. Check out this link to get more information about sound deadning. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
You need to get other sound deadners that are made of foam and vinyl. When I added these to my car there was a big difference. Check out this link to get more information about sound deadning. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
#44
01-30-2009 | 08:09 PM
Just a word of advice. I have dynamated my whole car. The road noise was a little less but not much. Dynamat products and the like are made to stop vibration and have little to do with road noise.
You need to get other sound deadners that are made of foam and vinyl. When I added these to my car there was a big difference. Check out this link to get more information about sound deadning. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
You need to get other sound deadners that are made of foam and vinyl. When I added these to my car there was a big difference. Check out this link to get more information about sound deadning. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
#45
02-23-2009 | 07:45 AM
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 6
From: Pipe Creek, Texas
A combination of a surface layer with “The Suppressor” http://www.thermotec.com/suppressor-...ntrol-mat.html (14610) covered with a layer of “Floor and Tunnel Shield” http://www.designengineering.com/pro...sp?m=sp&pid=27 (050501), applied to the firewall and exhaust channel, provides the ultimate in noise reduction from the forward section of the exhaust and some lower engine noise. After experiencing the effectiveness of this application, I put it at the tip of the list for targeting areas rather than an afterthought; it’s well worth the time and effort.
#46
02-25-2009 | 07:45 PM
A combination of a surface layer with “The Suppressor” http://www.thermotec.com/suppressor-...ntrol-mat.html (14610) covered with a layer of “Floor and Tunnel Shield” http://www.designengineering.com/pro...sp?m=sp&pid=27 (050501), applied to the firewall and exhaust channel, provides the ultimate in noise reduction from the forward section of the exhaust and some lower engine noise. After experiencing the effectiveness of this application, I put it at the tip of the list for targeting areas rather than an afterthought; it’s well worth the time and effort.
I am amazed at how well this is keeping the noise out of my cabin. It has really been an integral part of my engine/exhaust upgrades. For now sound is right where I want it....in the back of the car.
#47
06-12-2009 | 08:37 AM
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola, FL
#48
11-09-2009 | 05:09 PM
I ordered this stuff today, will see how well it works in the Boot area and rear wheel wells. Trying to get the car even more quite before i put on those Noisy snow tires
www.soundprooffoam.com/automotive-sound-dampening.html
www.soundprooffoam.com/automotive-sound-dampening.html
Last edited by NightFlyR; 11-11-2009 at 05:20 PM.
#49
11-12-2009 | 03:04 PM
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola, FL
I just found this on Google. There are several products mentioned.
http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pa...d_proofing.htm
-edit-
And I just found this site. Some good info.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pa...d_proofing.htm
-edit-
And I just found this site. Some good info.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Last edited by jbkone; 11-12-2009 at 03:34 PM.
#50
11-12-2009 | 04:44 PM
Just as a follow up to my earlier post i recieved 2 sheets of this stuff and installed 1 already under the rear seat and in the boot area, The difference is dramatic, The amount of Vibration coming into the car was almost completly gone. Next week when I get back home I will take the seats out and do under the carpet with the remaining sheet I have.
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