The new mini!


Ok so the players involved

Speakers for the fort doors.

Speakers for the back.

sub

My line output converter (LC6i)

My epicenter

Alpine pdx 5

Amp birthsheet... over 57% increase in actual power over the advertised watts for mid/highs. Over 40% increase in the sub channel. Thanks Alpine!

sub box

just about to take everything out


after 15 mins

after 30



removed the 6x9's

put clips to hook up the new speakers

old vs new 6x9's

Had to custom make a tweeter mount using plexiglass

put the crossover in the arm rest! worked great


made a mold, then put it in a bag, and used it to make the crossover fit nicely



Oh what a mess! I had to run wires from the x9331 to the under part of the driver's seat, where I'm going to put my audiocontrol processors, then under the center console to the under part of the passenger's seat, where my amp is going to be, then back under the center console to the x9331. (not to mention the sub in the back needed a wire and everything needed power from the battery and a ground wire!)

Where I'm going to get my inputs from/put my outputs to... The x9331 is the cable that runs from the factory headunit to all the speakers. I need to tap into this to make my system work (KEY PART). There are two sides to every connector... the side where something had came from and the side that something is going to (think if you cut a river in half at some point). The headunit side of the x9331 is where the sound is coming from so that needs to be rerouted to the amp and sound processors (keeping the river example, rerouting a river into a turbine for a dam). The output of the amp and sound processors need to go back into the "river" and that will be the speaker side of the x9331 (returning the water back into the river). I didn't know which side was which (which direction the river ran)... so I used an ohm meter to read which way the directions was going (which half has the inputs coming to it, and which half has it going away from it). I was looking for the meter to read "4 ohm," which is the ohm of the speakers (it's a closed circuit), and N.A. from the headunit side (open circuit, and therefore can't have an ohm value). I had a reading of 4.16 ohms from one side (where the sound is going to) and "NA" from the other half (where the sound is coming from, i.e. the headunit)!

Hooking up my inputs. Scary part. This car is only a month old after all and I had to cut into a wire harness under my dash!

Under the driver's seat. I had to cut this out. There's another one just like it under the passenger's seat, though you don't have to cut it out.



sorry it got dark, under the driver's seat.

amp, passenger's seat

put back together, everything looks stock!




It's pretty late... but I will include something real quick and maybe talk about it more later. I am using the automatic turn on that audiocontrol has GTO (it reads the input coming from the headunit and turns itself, other units, like my amp on). Well the mini does something wired. It puts out a low voltage, around 8volts when you open the car door, so this action will turn on the audiocontrol, don't freak out! It will only last a few mins and turn back off. So when you hook up the audiocontrol just remember if it comes on, it's because you have unlocked or open the door, nothing more. I freaked out, and it cost 4 hours of time.

 

Looks pretty sweet. How do you like the R-series components? I'm debating between the R- and X- series right now, but for not much more, seems like it may be worth the Xs.

Also, what made you choose the Epicenter/LC6 instead of say an Epicenter Plus, or the Cleansweep?

 

It is my understanding that the "plus" just adds a AUX input, so you can hook up an ipod or something straight to the sound processor. I wasn't going to use this extra add on, so why pay for it?

The type R's are very loud, very, very loud. Also quite clean. I haven't heard X series myself, but I don't think they make 6x9's type X. As I wanted to rock everything the same (make and) series I went with R's.

I have heard a lot of speakers, and these sounds on par with most things out there (if properly tuned). For around 100-150 bucks you can get a pair of type R's. Really the best bang for the buck out there, the "smart buy" if you will.

As far as the Cleansweep is concerned, there are a lot of negative reviews out there about it. But now after installing everything, I don't really see much use for it in my system (after having it up and playing around for a few weeks) and I'm glad I went with what I did. I think if anything I would spend the money to get an equalizer that you can tune each channel. With the set up I have, you will have one of the cleanest/loudest systems out there for almost 1k bucks.

 

I could be wrong, but I thought the Plus added the ability to connect high level signals from the OEM radio, essentially taking away the need for a line level converter.

Good to know. I'm putting an order in today, probably for the type R's, but I may change my mind at the last minute and match the 6x9 type R to the component type X setup. When I gave them a listen, they seemed to match well enough for my taste.

The only negative things I've read have been that the Cleansweep doesn't have a user-adjustable EQ on the out end of it, and it just outputs a flat signal. If you want, however, you can cofigure it with a 'flat' signal from the radio and then use the limited equalizer on the OEM radio, which I might end up doing instead of spending the money on a separate EQ right now.

Only reason I'm asking is because what I'm trying to setup sounds very similar, just with a few key differences, one being the Epicenter vs. Cleansweep. Also, I'm not adding a sub just yet. Might add one in the future, but I'm going to see if I think I really need it yet with the limited space.

Here's what I'm planning:

-From x9331 connector, I bought the parts to make my own male connector and not have to tap into factory wiring. I'll run those speaker signals back to the Cleansweep

-Cleansweep output to an Alpine F300 4 channel amp.

-Not sure if I want to just to L/R or maintain the front/rear separation yet, but the plan now is to keep it separated, and have Type Rs all the way around. If not, I'll just process 2 channels, and bridge the amp.

Guess that sounds a whole lot simpler than it really is...

 

Very nice. Thanks for taking a pic of the area under the driver seat. I had wondered if there was space there to put an amp or processor. Awesome job

 

Yeah the epicenter plus does let you add two channel speaker level inputs too... but for someone who not only wants to convert 4 channels, but also needs more channels than they originally have to run other speakers (in my case a sub), you still need the lc6 or one of the other oem converter products, eg lc7. So for someone like me, the plus just means AUX input.

 

Yeah it's just as big, maybe even bigger than the space under the passengers seat! Though you have to cut into the carpet. Don't worry with the backbeats being useless for the non-clubman, no one will ever see anything even if you cut too much!

 

beautiful work ya got me droolin

i cant wait to find gainfull employment again

 

nice job...good to see the pic posting worked!, now rip out that useless back seat and put a few more subs in there..lol

 

What's the story on the ****, man.

 

What he said. It looks like there's a cube-shaped sheepdog in your boot.



That aside, nice job and thanks for all the photos and descriptions.

--Dan
Mach V

 

I think this is the second **** carpeted sub box posted here. The other was for a retro statement. Perhaps this is the beginning of a trend.

 

The other box? was probably mine. When I first saw the mini, I told myself... got to put **** in there. It fits so well! And when you drive with flip flops, you can take them off and feel the 1.5" of ****! It's all about personality and being different? Maybe? Well I have the shagy mini.



But does anyone know why a random 8 volts go through the speakers when you unlock, or open the door??? This really messed me up when I did my install because I thought, when I hooked everything up and it turned on without any sound whatsoever coming from the speakers (not even that weird sound you get when you put the key in) that the GTO feature of my audiocontrol lc6i was either messed up, or I tapped into a power line under my dash by mistake ... as a result I ripped very thing out and had to test each line to see what the deal was (the reason I know that it puts out 8 volts). But if you use the GTO to turn on your system (and it does work great!! ), don't be afraid when it comes on and the head unit isn't even on! It will turn off when you lock your car and close the door (like 4mins later or something).


Also about people not thinking about putting in a sub, not even a little sub like mine... think about any top of the line home theater system, and tell me which one doesn't have a sub in the system... the list will be very short.

 

If I were putting a top of the line home theater system in my car, it would be fantastic to have a sub, you're right. But my goal was to upgrade the speakers themselves and get some better sound, not to have a top of the line system in my car.

 

Yup, it was you. Will you be wearing a polyester suit when you drive?

The new sub box looks like a lighter shade. Is it a different ****, or just the photography? What happened to the **** floor in the boot? Do you still have **** under your feet?

**** aside, nice audio job, and interesting write-up.

 

-Polyester suit, no, I'm more of the polo type myself. But halloween is coming up...
-The new box is the old box turned on its side, must be the photo (I took them using my cell).
-The **** in the boot... well because I don't need the false floor anymore cause my processors and amp are under my seat and not in the trunk, I took it out!
-Yes, I still have **** under my feet.
-Thank you, I found out all the information I needed to do my install from NAM and NAM like sites (wouldn't have even of tried to do the install without this website)... so I thought I would share as much as I could about my install to help others and improve the totally knowledge out there.

 

Thanks Mike! Was a great post.

 

hi!, how did you connect the front speaker? did you connect the stock speaker wire to the cross over and left the 4" speaker cable loose?

 

Good point/great question. I was perplexed by this myself.

So in the front doors there are two speakers, a 5.25" in the bottom part of the door and a 3.5" in the top. I'm not sure how they are connected to the head unit (because at the level of the x9331 that whole door is only one channel) but my guess is, the 3.5" is hooked off of the 5.25" wire (vampire tap?). So i just left the wire for the 3.5" in the door, taped it, put it a safe place and left it alone. Then Hooked up the wire for the 5.25" to my crossover. Seems to work just fine.

 

Is it a huge hassle to run new wires through the doors, or has anyone tried it? Great write up, and answered the BIG QUESTION I had about whats under the drivers side seat!! Thanks!!

 

It is a hassle, but doable. I managed it with help from schatzy62:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...34-post17.html

 

hello sorry for my English but I'm writing from Italy.

I want to connect an amplifier to my mini

I saw that you took the cable connectors x9331.

What wires did you use to get the signal from the front and rear speakers?

I've already bought the adapter to be amplified in the pre-amplified and do not know where to connect.

Please help

Gianni

 

Nice work!

As I've got certain relation to the caraudio industry, can give u a little piece of advice: to get better sound u can use some noise insulation materials - doors and trunk panels also. Cause speakers usually play better in wooden box than on metal. It can give you better midbass punch and allows you not to here sound waves from metall panels but only from speakers.

You can use dynamat extreme for example (i'm not a professional in the USA market of the damping and other noise insulating materials market) to cover door panels with it.