Navigation & Audio Quick Poll: Who's had Harman Kardon amp failure?
#176
#177
You are welcome.
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#180
I still have my back up used and working H/K amp setting in my parts pile at home, lucky my ap is still working after almost 283K. If mine goes and the back up does not work, ( which is have the full bluetooth factory kit , so i dont want to lose that function), i will bypass it and go with a VDO head unit.
https://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_...d_Units_27731/
https://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_...d_Units_27731/
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#181
We have a 2004 Mini Cooper and the Harman Kardon amplifier stopped working. I've never had any car audio component, head unit or amplifier, fail in any of the 16 cars I've owned, yet this premium amplifier is stone cold dead. Doing a bit of anecdotal research it seems it might be a very common problem, so I was wondering:
How many others out there have had their Harman Kardon audio system fail?
(Please post the year of your car and model in response)
How many others out there have had their Harman Kardon audio system fail?
(Please post the year of your car and model in response)
#182
Our 2005 HK system is dying, slowly. It sometimes works and sometimes doesn't and sometimes is working then stops then sometimes isn't working then does. SHOCKED at the price of a replacement amp! Unsure of used is the way to go.
Ours seems to shut the whole system off. The head unit goes totally dead. Then, after some time, it will turn on again. Then other times it just cuts out and turns off.
Ours seems to shut the whole system off. The head unit goes totally dead. Then, after some time, it will turn on again. Then other times it just cuts out and turns off.
#183
New amp
I put in a JL Audio XD600/6 (M600/6, the marine version, will work well if you have extra dampness) in our 2004 Mini Cooper (R50) this weekend -- took me about 7 hours in total and not too tough if you have some DIY in you. I got a refurbished amp on eBay for under $300 and spent about $15 on connectors. There are lots of these amps out there in the $350 range and, if you choose to go this route, it will let you keep your Harman Kardon (HK) head unit intact and connect up to your existing HK 2ohm speakers. It cost much less than the $1000+ Mini wants to replace with 8 yr old HK technology, and you'll have more watts and cleaner sound, and as I mentioned, you can definitely Do-It-Yourself. No add'l crossovers needed either -- this is a 6 channel amp with adjustable crossovers and level input adjustment at the amp. You'll lose the front/rear fade option since that was controlled digitally between the HK Head Unit and the HK amp, however a JL amp wired remote is also available if you should so feel the need (JL Audio HD-RLC ~$25), but you can also just set-and-forget the input levels at the amp for balance between the 3 sets of channels. Be careful not to overdrive your speakers by over cranking the inputs.
Firstly though...
Disclaimer: I'm not an electrical engineer or car audio installer, so anything posted here is solely my experience. Caveat Emptor.
This site was a lot of help in the seat and panel disassembly. Starting here and the next couple of pages forward: http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/rearseat.htm
NOTE: Before you do anything with the amp, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY. 300/600watts is a lot of juice and could be lethal. Safety first. Make sure there is no way the lead can spring back to your battery while you are working. I put the plastic cover back over my battery to be sure.
Also, I like to wire up all the new speaker connections first, then the amp ground connection, 12v power and remote last.
These maps of the wires I found to be accurate and were essential:
http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/hk-plug-grey.htm
http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/hk-plug-black.htm
After you disconnect the wiring harness from the amp, pry this wiring plug apart with a jewellers screwdriver or a knife and a black half and grey half should pull out of the connector. Release the triangular tangs that lock the wires in the halves with nail or tiny screwdriver. The metal tangs on the wires work pretty well without stripping, you can plug them straight into the XD600/6 wire connection holes -- tighten down on them with the alan key provided.
Its fairly straightforward to wire everything up. Just follow the diagrams that will tell you which coded wires the tweeters, door speakers and woofers connect to. The power, ground and remote, as well as the input leads from the HK head unit need to be wired up as well. That's about it.
You'll need two RCA connectors to wire up the two-channel input from the HK Head Unit to the amp. Positive (+) goes to the center pole. There is a switch at the amp to accept 2 channel input, and that's what you'll need to select.
You'll need to extend the Subwoofer A speaker leads to the amp (I ignored Subwoofer B, those leads seemed redundant and everything seems to work without B just fine) by about 4"/15cm.
The biggest part of the job for me was cutting and drilling a thin metal plate to mount the amp back onto the original HK bracket. Its a tight fit but the JL Audio XD600/6 does work in the same space the Harmon Kardon fit in and another reason to go with JL -- their stuff is very compact. The remounting job will take up the most of your time since you'll be inventing/re-jigging. But all in all it, I found it a fun weekend project.
If you find you have amp hiss, even without the Head Unit switched on, turn your inputs all the way down and mix back up from there. That should fix it. Use the included JL manual to learn about and then adjust the frequency filters (crossovers) and inputs. Adjust to your taste with the head unit controls set flat. Again, don't cook your speakers by over dialling the inputs. Keep the inputs as low as possible to minimize noise.
One note: I have to mail order and run some 4AWG wire that JL recommends for the 12v power since I live In-The-Middle-Of-NoWhere but in the meantime, I'm using the stock Mini power to the HK amp and it seems to be working fine for now. I'll let you know if it starts blowing fuses.
So bottom line...
I did it myself. Saved at least $700. Looks like a factory install. Sounds awesome.
If you have any questions, I'll try and answer.
Firstly though...
Disclaimer: I'm not an electrical engineer or car audio installer, so anything posted here is solely my experience. Caveat Emptor.
This site was a lot of help in the seat and panel disassembly. Starting here and the next couple of pages forward: http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/rearseat.htm
NOTE: Before you do anything with the amp, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY. 300/600watts is a lot of juice and could be lethal. Safety first. Make sure there is no way the lead can spring back to your battery while you are working. I put the plastic cover back over my battery to be sure.
Also, I like to wire up all the new speaker connections first, then the amp ground connection, 12v power and remote last.
These maps of the wires I found to be accurate and were essential:
http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/hk-plug-grey.htm
http://gbmini.net/downloads/PGEN/hk-plug-black.htm
After you disconnect the wiring harness from the amp, pry this wiring plug apart with a jewellers screwdriver or a knife and a black half and grey half should pull out of the connector. Release the triangular tangs that lock the wires in the halves with nail or tiny screwdriver. The metal tangs on the wires work pretty well without stripping, you can plug them straight into the XD600/6 wire connection holes -- tighten down on them with the alan key provided.
Its fairly straightforward to wire everything up. Just follow the diagrams that will tell you which coded wires the tweeters, door speakers and woofers connect to. The power, ground and remote, as well as the input leads from the HK head unit need to be wired up as well. That's about it.
You'll need two RCA connectors to wire up the two-channel input from the HK Head Unit to the amp. Positive (+) goes to the center pole. There is a switch at the amp to accept 2 channel input, and that's what you'll need to select.
You'll need to extend the Subwoofer A speaker leads to the amp (I ignored Subwoofer B, those leads seemed redundant and everything seems to work without B just fine) by about 4"/15cm.
The biggest part of the job for me was cutting and drilling a thin metal plate to mount the amp back onto the original HK bracket. Its a tight fit but the JL Audio XD600/6 does work in the same space the Harmon Kardon fit in and another reason to go with JL -- their stuff is very compact. The remounting job will take up the most of your time since you'll be inventing/re-jigging. But all in all it, I found it a fun weekend project.
If you find you have amp hiss, even without the Head Unit switched on, turn your inputs all the way down and mix back up from there. That should fix it. Use the included JL manual to learn about and then adjust the frequency filters (crossovers) and inputs. Adjust to your taste with the head unit controls set flat. Again, don't cook your speakers by over dialling the inputs. Keep the inputs as low as possible to minimize noise.
One note: I have to mail order and run some 4AWG wire that JL recommends for the 12v power since I live In-The-Middle-Of-NoWhere but in the meantime, I'm using the stock Mini power to the HK amp and it seems to be working fine for now. I'll let you know if it starts blowing fuses.
So bottom line...
I did it myself. Saved at least $700. Looks like a factory install. Sounds awesome.
If you have any questions, I'll try and answer.
#184
I’ve done extensive work to my car stereo and have the wiring color codes for you. Keep in mind that this written diagram is for a Harmon Kardon factory upgraded sound system with 10 speakers, 4 x 1 inch tweeters all wired together, 2 x 3 inch midrange, 2 x 5 inch midrange and 2 x 6 inch oval, lower midrange. Also the tweeters located in the “A” pillars and in front of the rear woofers, (looks exactly like a coaxial but are wired independently), are wired with the three inch midrange located on the doors. Not really sure how Harmon wired them into amp crossovers or if they even did. Another way to say it is that the higher 3 inch midrange and 1 inch tweeter sound signal are on the same line.
In reference to my description when you see two colors Blue Black or Yellow Brown or Yellow Black I’m referring to a Blue wire with a thin Black line running down the side or a Yellow wire with a Black or Brown line running down the side. First color is the wire itself and the second color is the line that runs down it. I added. + or - after each color coded line referring to positive + or negative -
Blue White + Blue Brown - Left side door upper 3 inch midrange.
Blue Black + Blue Brown - Right side door upper 3 inch midrange.
Brown Red + Blue Red - Left side door lower 5 inch midrange
Brown Red + Yellow Black - Right side door lower 5 inch midrange
Black Red + Black Brown - Left woofer directly behind the passenger side seat
Yellow Brown + Yellow Black - Right woofer directly behind the driver’s seat
If you have any questions just send a pm.
#185
Why? Both RickLP and other members would benefit from an open discussion (preferably under a new or existing thread in the 2nd generation forum instead of here).
#186
#187
#188
Note that this Thread is about 1st generation Minis. I don't know whether there are differences between 1st and 2nd gen. Minis in regard to their wiring colors but I wouldn't assume it. Nor would I assume that wire coloring is consistent across all 2nd generation Minis (i.e. pre-LCI, LCI and standard audio equipped vs. HIFI/HK equipped). Also note that in case your MINI came with an amp from factory (i.e. HIFI/HK option), there are several reasons for not simply replacing the factory speakers, as discussed in this excellent thread on possible sound upgrades.
The tweeters and midrange front speakers of 2nd generation HK and HIFI equipped Minis are supplied with the same signal (albeit heavily processed, see below).
Why? Both RickLP and other members would benefit from an open discussion (preferably under a new or existing thread in the 2nd generation forum instead of here).
The tweeters and midrange front speakers of 2nd generation HK and HIFI equipped Minis are supplied with the same signal (albeit heavily processed, see below).
Why? Both RickLP and other members would benefit from an open discussion (preferably under a new or existing thread in the 2nd generation forum instead of here).
Okay, thanks for the clarification. I wasn’t aware it was for first gen mini’s. This will be my last entry here.
As far as the color coded wiring I’ll mention this, I’ve got a 2010 that I ordered with an HK upgraded stereo system. A couple years ago I went through some diy LCI upgrades putting black faced climate control and also the head unit. I bought a HK head unit from a 2012 and plugged it into the stock radio plug. It worked and all the speakers were correct and sounded great. I lost my ability to use my phone via Bluetooth due to the mic not working and my aux input. However, the color coded speaker wires were the same and my system still sounded like it should have. From my experience I would say that for the 10 speaker HK upgrade the color coding for the speakers would be consistent across that generation.
#189
Non HK System
Paul hello. I have 09 minni s hatch. I dont have nav. Think I have plain amp and not HK. Can I change amp with same from another car? Can I use any 6 channel that fits or JL you mounted. I arcedd battery during install and lost welcome ging/chime and radio sound. Im checking fuses and relays. But could I have fried amp
#190
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