Navigation & Audio Audio upgrades, bluetooth, and navigation discussions surrounding the Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.

Navigation & Audio speaker specifications

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  #1  
Old 03-03-2007, 10:44 PM
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speaker specifications

so i am waiting for my 07 mc to be delievered and was wondering what speakers (woofer, mid, tweeter) are mounted where (non hifi). Also could someone tell me the mounting depth for the woofer up front? thanx
 
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Old 03-04-2007, 03:10 PM
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We're in the same boat. I ordered the base cd player stereo, but plan on swapping out to better loudspeakers. The only thing I know so far for sure is the rear speaker is a traditional 6x9", however I'm unsure of any mounting depths.
 
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Old 03-04-2007, 04:04 PM
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Guys:
A good source to find about mounting depths and such has always been Crutchfield. They are a bit expensive but if you decide to go with them, the service advisors there can give you great info. I highly reccomend MB Quarts, Focal or any other high end separates speaker company. (I don't think Crutchfield sells those brands but again, you can pick the brains over there.) I'm not sure if the 07's are yet in their computer base, but you can always give them a shot. Good luck!
 
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Old 03-04-2007, 04:42 PM
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I agree with Crutchfield being a good resource....when the car has been on the market long enough for them to analyze it!
 
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Old 03-04-2007, 07:18 PM
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yeah... crutchfield takes a while..

anyways, can someone take pictures of where the speakers are?

and ryephile, what speakers do the base stereo have?

thanks for all the help
 
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Old 03-10-2007, 11:53 AM
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Front lowers (in doors) are 5.25" one ways with a 5.5" opening for the basket. The mounting depth is about 3.125".

Front uppers (in doors) are 3.5" one ways with a 3 -5/8 opening for the basket. Mounting depth is 2.25"

Rears are 6x9's. Seem to be standard mounting

ALL are 4 ohm speakers and are as cheap as can be. NO tweeters anywhere. All drivers appear to be treated paper and sound like they have screw drivers stuck in them....
 
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Old 03-10-2007, 11:54 AM
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If you have the boost/upgrade radio, I have no idea if the specs are the same. There is a tweeter in the A pillar on the upgrade and I assume the wiring is there should you want to buy replacement A pillars and put in your own tweets up there if you have the base system.....but they are most likely not wired up/powered so they would need to run off a crossover/component system with the other drivers in the doors...


HOW TO REMOVE STOCK SPEAKERS IN FRONT:

The door panel pops off in about 2 minutes max...there is a little pin that needs to be removed under the door latch and after than just work around the edge and pop the whole door off by pulling hard....the actual door panel is in two parts. The part that is easily removable is everything from the large oval trim ring that wraps the grab bar outward (like a giant C shape; if its the passenger door . The grab bar and the 3.5" speaker housing stay attached to subchassis in the door. The 3.5" has a secondary removable housing on it that is eay to pop off once you get a grip on it and pull directly outward. From there you can access the screws to remove it..... The lower 5.25" will already be exposed once the main door panel has been removed..
 
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Last edited by OutMotoring; 03-10-2007 at 12:06 PM.
  #8  
Old 03-10-2007, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by OutMotoring
Front lowers (in doors) are 5.25" one ways with a 5.5" opening for the basket. The mounting depth is about 3.125".

Front uppers (in doors) are 3.5" one ways with a 3 -5/8 opening for the basket. Mounting depth is 2.25"

Rears are 6x9's. Seem to be standard mounting

ALL are 4 ohm speakers and are as cheap as can be. NO tweeters anywhere. All drivers appear to be treated paper and sound like they have screw drivers stuck in them....
thank you so much for the reply. Do you think it'll be possible to fit in some 6.5" woofers in the bottom of the fron door?
 
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Old 03-10-2007, 01:11 PM
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16.5cm fit no problem
 
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Old 03-11-2007, 02:26 PM
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Yes, a 6.5" with a basket diameter of 5.5" or less will also fit, which is a good way to go for just a few bucks more...
 
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  #11  
Old 03-13-2007, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by leonsv
thank you so much for the reply. Do you think it'll be possible to fit in some 6.5" woofers in the bottom of the fron door?
Originally Posted by OutMotoring
Yes, a 6.5" with a basket diameter of 5.5" or less will also fit, which is a good way to go for just a few bucks more...
1. Is this replacing the existing speakers with woofers? Or, cutting a new hole in the door?
 
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by OutMotoring
Front lowers (in doors) are 5.25" one ways with a 5.5" opening for the basket. The mounting depth is about 3.125".

Front uppers (in doors) are 3.5" one ways with a 3 -5/8 opening for the basket. Mounting depth is 2.25"

Rears are 6x9's. Seem to be standard mounting

ALL are 4 ohm speakers and are as cheap as can be. NO tweeters anywhere. All drivers appear to be treated paper and sound like they have screw drivers stuck in them....
I haven't messed with car audio since installing a radio in a 1957 Alfa Romeo Spider when I was 16. So, I have a lot of very basic questions. I hope that is OK here.

I ordered an MCS yesterday with standard radio and Nav. It is due in early May. So, I'd like to do my research ahead of time.

Crutchfield seems to have added some info for the 2007 Mini Cooper (they don't have "S" as an option in the "model" choice.) Unless I am mistaken, this seems to have changed since yesterday.

1. Does anyone know what wattage is available for the different speakers from the standard radio?

2. I'm guessing that it is pretty low and I need to go with the most sensitive replacement speakers I can find, right?

3. If I plan to replace factory speakers, but don't want the hassle of rewiring for added amps, would it be better to change my order to the upgrade system?
 
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Old 03-13-2007, 08:58 PM
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Anyone have thoughts on these for replacement speakers?

Boston Acoustics S35
3-1/2" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • 2-30 watts RMS power range

Boston Acoustics S55
5-1/4" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • power range 2-35 watts RMS

Boston Acoustics SX95
6" x 9" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • dual Type-S2 Kortec dome tweeters • 2-60 watts RMS power range
 
  #14  
Old 03-14-2007, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Robin Casady
Anyone have thoughts on these for replacement speakers?

Boston Acoustics S35
3-1/2" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • 2-30 watts RMS power range

Boston Acoustics S55
5-1/4" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • power range 2-35 watts RMS

Boston Acoustics SX95
6" x 9" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • dual Type-S2 Kortec dome tweeters • 2-60 watts RMS power range
I really like Boston speakers and have had many of their products in my houses and cars. Would think it would be much better to go aftermarket than upgrade via the factory but that is my opinion...

any 6.5" with a basket diameter (right below the lip from a side view) will fit in without cutting. Most speakers have a cross section diagram...cooper and cooper S door panels are the same so crutchfields info is fine..

and yes, the speaker with the highest sensitivity would be best for low powered head units..It gets really to have to start adding amps up front...
 
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:00 AM
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Thanks a ton Aaron for posting your findings; you're the U.S. audio pioneer for R56'ers!
 
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by OutMotoring
I really like Boston speakers and have had many of their products in my houses and cars. Would think it would be much better to go aftermarket than upgrade via the factory but that is my opinion...

any 6.5" with a basket diameter (right below the lip from a side view) will fit in without cutting. Most speakers have a cross section diagram...cooper and cooper S door panels are the same so crutchfields info is fine..

and yes, the speaker with the highest sensitivity would be best for low powered head units..It gets really to have to start adding amps up front...
Hi, I have the Nav system does that complicate anything? I would rather keep the head unit stock.Speaker sensitivity- in the upper 90's? How can I install amps up front? Speaker level ouput adapters? Don't the little tweeter speaker grills next to the door handles ,have speakers in them? Or are they fake on the Non HK? Can they fitted with some ,if fake grills?
 
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:03 AM
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If you run an amp with the stock system you can use line level converters and any good amp...

the speakers in the door by the door handles are 3.5" and are just a coated paper cone with NO tweeter...I am not sure if they are capped off or crossed over by the headunit but a good replacement component/separate set (tweeter only in that location) and the 6.5 down below but you will need a custom way to mount the tweeter in the 3.5" location...
 
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  #18  
Old 03-14-2007, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by JPMM
Hi, I have the Nav system does that complicate anything? I would rather keep the head unit stock.Speaker sensitivity- in the upper 90's? How can I install amps up front? Speaker level ouput adapters? Don't the little tweeter speaker grills next to the door handles ,have speakers in them? Or are they fake on the Non HK? Can they fitted with some ,if fake grills?
I also ordered the Nav so I'm really hesitant to take it to an aftermarket installer for amps, etc. I had a commercial installer put a system in a '80 Rabbit and they messed up some of the electronics. That was in a much simpler day. I'd be very nervous about what they might do to the Nav/audio integration.

So, I think I'll stick with simply replacing speakers. Hopefully, the 92db sensitivity and 2-35 watt RMS will be right for the standard auido. I wonder how easy it is to pull panels and swap speakers? I saw a panel-popping tool somewhere online. Is that a big help?
 
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