Navigation & Audio speaker specifications
#1
#2
#3
Guys:
A good source to find about mounting depths and such has always been Crutchfield. They are a bit expensive but if you decide to go with them, the service advisors there can give you great info. I highly reccomend MB Quarts, Focal or any other high end separates speaker company. (I don't think Crutchfield sells those brands but again, you can pick the brains over there.) I'm not sure if the 07's are yet in their computer base, but you can always give them a shot. Good luck!
A good source to find about mounting depths and such has always been Crutchfield. They are a bit expensive but if you decide to go with them, the service advisors there can give you great info. I highly reccomend MB Quarts, Focal or any other high end separates speaker company. (I don't think Crutchfield sells those brands but again, you can pick the brains over there.) I'm not sure if the 07's are yet in their computer base, but you can always give them a shot. Good luck!
#6
Front lowers (in doors) are 5.25" one ways with a 5.5" opening for the basket. The mounting depth is about 3.125".
Front uppers (in doors) are 3.5" one ways with a 3 -5/8 opening for the basket. Mounting depth is 2.25"
Rears are 6x9's. Seem to be standard mounting
ALL are 4 ohm speakers and are as cheap as can be. NO tweeters anywhere. All drivers appear to be treated paper and sound like they have screw drivers stuck in them....
Front uppers (in doors) are 3.5" one ways with a 3 -5/8 opening for the basket. Mounting depth is 2.25"
Rears are 6x9's. Seem to be standard mounting
ALL are 4 ohm speakers and are as cheap as can be. NO tweeters anywhere. All drivers appear to be treated paper and sound like they have screw drivers stuck in them....
__________________
Aaron@OutMotoring "info@outmotoring.com"
865-223-6335
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#7
If you have the boost/upgrade radio, I have no idea if the specs are the same. There is a tweeter in the A pillar on the upgrade and I assume the wiring is there should you want to buy replacement A pillars and put in your own tweets up there if you have the base system.....but they are most likely not wired up/powered so they would need to run off a crossover/component system with the other drivers in the doors...
HOW TO REMOVE STOCK SPEAKERS IN FRONT:
The door panel pops off in about 2 minutes max...there is a little pin that needs to be removed under the door latch and after than just work around the edge and pop the whole door off by pulling hard....the actual door panel is in two parts. The part that is easily removable is everything from the large oval trim ring that wraps the grab bar outward (like a giant C shape; if its the passenger door . The grab bar and the 3.5" speaker housing stay attached to subchassis in the door. The 3.5" has a secondary removable housing on it that is eay to pop off once you get a grip on it and pull directly outward. From there you can access the screws to remove it..... The lower 5.25" will already be exposed once the main door panel has been removed..
HOW TO REMOVE STOCK SPEAKERS IN FRONT:
The door panel pops off in about 2 minutes max...there is a little pin that needs to be removed under the door latch and after than just work around the edge and pop the whole door off by pulling hard....the actual door panel is in two parts. The part that is easily removable is everything from the large oval trim ring that wraps the grab bar outward (like a giant C shape; if its the passenger door . The grab bar and the 3.5" speaker housing stay attached to subchassis in the door. The 3.5" has a secondary removable housing on it that is eay to pop off once you get a grip on it and pull directly outward. From there you can access the screws to remove it..... The lower 5.25" will already be exposed once the main door panel has been removed..
__________________
Aaron@OutMotoring "info@outmotoring.com"
865-223-6335
OutMotoring.com: Home of the finest MINI and Aston Martin Parts + Accessories.
Shop online at www.OutMotoring.com
Free Shipping on most orders over $195 Click HERE
865-223-6335
OutMotoring.com: Home of the finest MINI and Aston Martin Parts + Accessories.
Shop online at www.OutMotoring.com
Free Shipping on most orders over $195 Click HERE
Last edited by OutMotoring; 03-10-2007 at 12:06 PM.
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#8
Front lowers (in doors) are 5.25" one ways with a 5.5" opening for the basket. The mounting depth is about 3.125".
Front uppers (in doors) are 3.5" one ways with a 3 -5/8 opening for the basket. Mounting depth is 2.25"
Rears are 6x9's. Seem to be standard mounting
ALL are 4 ohm speakers and are as cheap as can be. NO tweeters anywhere. All drivers appear to be treated paper and sound like they have screw drivers stuck in them....
Front uppers (in doors) are 3.5" one ways with a 3 -5/8 opening for the basket. Mounting depth is 2.25"
Rears are 6x9's. Seem to be standard mounting
ALL are 4 ohm speakers and are as cheap as can be. NO tweeters anywhere. All drivers appear to be treated paper and sound like they have screw drivers stuck in them....
#10
Yes, a 6.5" with a basket diameter of 5.5" or less will also fit, which is a good way to go for just a few bucks more...
__________________
Aaron@OutMotoring "info@outmotoring.com"
865-223-6335
OutMotoring.com: Home of the finest MINI and Aston Martin Parts + Accessories.
Shop online at www.OutMotoring.com
Free Shipping on most orders over $195 Click HERE
865-223-6335
OutMotoring.com: Home of the finest MINI and Aston Martin Parts + Accessories.
Shop online at www.OutMotoring.com
Free Shipping on most orders over $195 Click HERE
#12
Front lowers (in doors) are 5.25" one ways with a 5.5" opening for the basket. The mounting depth is about 3.125".
Front uppers (in doors) are 3.5" one ways with a 3 -5/8 opening for the basket. Mounting depth is 2.25"
Rears are 6x9's. Seem to be standard mounting
ALL are 4 ohm speakers and are as cheap as can be. NO tweeters anywhere. All drivers appear to be treated paper and sound like they have screw drivers stuck in them....
Front uppers (in doors) are 3.5" one ways with a 3 -5/8 opening for the basket. Mounting depth is 2.25"
Rears are 6x9's. Seem to be standard mounting
ALL are 4 ohm speakers and are as cheap as can be. NO tweeters anywhere. All drivers appear to be treated paper and sound like they have screw drivers stuck in them....
I ordered an MCS yesterday with standard radio and Nav. It is due in early May. So, I'd like to do my research ahead of time.
Crutchfield seems to have added some info for the 2007 Mini Cooper (they don't have "S" as an option in the "model" choice.) Unless I am mistaken, this seems to have changed since yesterday.
1. Does anyone know what wattage is available for the different speakers from the standard radio?
2. I'm guessing that it is pretty low and I need to go with the most sensitive replacement speakers I can find, right?
3. If I plan to replace factory speakers, but don't want the hassle of rewiring for added amps, would it be better to change my order to the upgrade system?
#13
Anyone have thoughts on these for replacement speakers?
Boston Acoustics S35
3-1/2" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • 2-30 watts RMS power range
Boston Acoustics S55
5-1/4" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • power range 2-35 watts RMS
Boston Acoustics SX95
6" x 9" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • dual Type-S2 Kortec dome tweeters • 2-60 watts RMS power range
Boston Acoustics S35
3-1/2" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • 2-30 watts RMS power range
Boston Acoustics S55
5-1/4" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • power range 2-35 watts RMS
Boston Acoustics SX95
6" x 9" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • dual Type-S2 Kortec dome tweeters • 2-60 watts RMS power range
#14
Anyone have thoughts on these for replacement speakers?
Boston Acoustics S35
3-1/2" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • 2-30 watts RMS power range
Boston Acoustics S55
5-1/4" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • power range 2-35 watts RMS
Boston Acoustics SX95
6" x 9" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • dual Type-S2 Kortec dome tweeters • 2-60 watts RMS power range
Boston Acoustics S35
3-1/2" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • 2-30 watts RMS power range
Boston Acoustics S55
5-1/4" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • Type-S3 soft dome tweeter • power range 2-35 watts RMS
Boston Acoustics SX95
6" x 9" 2-way Speakers
Copolymer woofer • rubber surround • dual Type-S2 Kortec dome tweeters • 2-60 watts RMS power range
any 6.5" with a basket diameter (right below the lip from a side view) will fit in without cutting. Most speakers have a cross section diagram...cooper and cooper S door panels are the same so crutchfields info is fine..
and yes, the speaker with the highest sensitivity would be best for low powered head units..It gets really to have to start adding amps up front...
__________________
Aaron@OutMotoring "info@outmotoring.com"
865-223-6335
OutMotoring.com: Home of the finest MINI and Aston Martin Parts + Accessories.
Shop online at www.OutMotoring.com
Free Shipping on most orders over $195 Click HERE
865-223-6335
OutMotoring.com: Home of the finest MINI and Aston Martin Parts + Accessories.
Shop online at www.OutMotoring.com
Free Shipping on most orders over $195 Click HERE
#16
I really like Boston speakers and have had many of their products in my houses and cars. Would think it would be much better to go aftermarket than upgrade via the factory but that is my opinion...
any 6.5" with a basket diameter (right below the lip from a side view) will fit in without cutting. Most speakers have a cross section diagram...cooper and cooper S door panels are the same so crutchfields info is fine..
and yes, the speaker with the highest sensitivity would be best for low powered head units..It gets really to have to start adding amps up front...
any 6.5" with a basket diameter (right below the lip from a side view) will fit in without cutting. Most speakers have a cross section diagram...cooper and cooper S door panels are the same so crutchfields info is fine..
and yes, the speaker with the highest sensitivity would be best for low powered head units..It gets really to have to start adding amps up front...
#17
If you run an amp with the stock system you can use line level converters and any good amp...
the speakers in the door by the door handles are 3.5" and are just a coated paper cone with NO tweeter...I am not sure if they are capped off or crossed over by the headunit but a good replacement component/separate set (tweeter only in that location) and the 6.5 down below but you will need a custom way to mount the tweeter in the 3.5" location...
the speakers in the door by the door handles are 3.5" and are just a coated paper cone with NO tweeter...I am not sure if they are capped off or crossed over by the headunit but a good replacement component/separate set (tweeter only in that location) and the 6.5 down below but you will need a custom way to mount the tweeter in the 3.5" location...
__________________
Aaron@OutMotoring "info@outmotoring.com"
865-223-6335
OutMotoring.com: Home of the finest MINI and Aston Martin Parts + Accessories.
Shop online at www.OutMotoring.com
Free Shipping on most orders over $195 Click HERE
865-223-6335
OutMotoring.com: Home of the finest MINI and Aston Martin Parts + Accessories.
Shop online at www.OutMotoring.com
Free Shipping on most orders over $195 Click HERE
#18
Hi, I have the Nav system does that complicate anything? I would rather keep the head unit stock.Speaker sensitivity- in the upper 90's? How can I install amps up front? Speaker level ouput adapters? Don't the little tweeter speaker grills next to the door handles ,have speakers in them? Or are they fake on the Non HK? Can they fitted with some ,if fake grills?
So, I think I'll stick with simply replacing speakers. Hopefully, the 92db sensitivity and 2-35 watt RMS will be right for the standard auido. I wonder how easy it is to pull panels and swap speakers? I saw a panel-popping tool somewhere online. Is that a big help?
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