Navigation & Audio R56 speaker replacement how-to
#352
12-13-2008, 11:17 PM
#354
12-14-2008, 07:05 AM
#355
12-14-2008, 07:06 AM
Thanks for the info in this thread! I was able to complete my install of JL speakers in the front doors with little issue. Some thoughts that might help others:
Getting the door panels off definitely requies some commitment, a very solid tug is required to get started. I found the only place to get a decent grip was the lower inside corner near the large speaker. As you work around to the top you'll see the panel is very small near the door pull so I needed to be more careful getting the top half off. The cover around the door pull came loose as the panel was being lifted away from the door.
The 4" speaker cover is not coming off by just pulling, I needed to pry at it with a screwdriver as described by superc00per ( https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...7-post345.html ). That pops one of the tabs and then it was easy to wiggle to others loose.
I did not have to take off the mirror control on the driver door, I don't know why anyone would want to mess with this. I had plenty of slack in the wiring to just rotate the cover out of the way and replce the speaker. Even if I did need to remove the controller it looked pretty easy to just disconnect the wires at the harness to avoid taking the **** apart?
So all in all pretty easy, the driver door went very quickly after learning how to on the passenger side. This kind of thing is always easier in a warm climate, I heated up my garage and had a parabolic heater pointed at the door plastic to warm them up and make things a bit more pliable. Speakers are much clearer than stock, I'll give it a few days to compare. Now I just need to wire up the amp for the sub.
Getting the door panels off definitely requies some commitment, a very solid tug is required to get started. I found the only place to get a decent grip was the lower inside corner near the large speaker. As you work around to the top you'll see the panel is very small near the door pull so I needed to be more careful getting the top half off. The cover around the door pull came loose as the panel was being lifted away from the door.
The 4" speaker cover is not coming off by just pulling, I needed to pry at it with a screwdriver as described by superc00per ( https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...7-post345.html ). That pops one of the tabs and then it was easy to wiggle to others loose.
I did not have to take off the mirror control on the driver door, I don't know why anyone would want to mess with this. I had plenty of slack in the wiring to just rotate the cover out of the way and replce the speaker. Even if I did need to remove the controller it looked pretty easy to just disconnect the wires at the harness to avoid taking the **** apart?
So all in all pretty easy, the driver door went very quickly after learning how to on the passenger side. This kind of thing is always easier in a warm climate, I heated up my garage and had a parabolic heater pointed at the door plastic to warm them up and make things a bit more pliable. Speakers are much clearer than stock, I'll give it a few days to compare. Now I just need to wire up the amp for the sub.
Last edited by greystone; 12-14-2008 at 09:45 AM. Reason: Speeling
#356
12-14-2008, 07:19 AM
Glad to hear that it went so well. I'm having a hard time getting my nerve up to switch out the speakers. Did you use the coaxial JL speakers (cxi) or the component ones (csi)?
Also...what is "the pile" that you are lining up over the **** in your post above?
#357
12-14-2008, 08:42 AM
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#358
12-14-2008, 09:13 AM
6th Gear
Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6-1/2"
Top-mount Depth (Inches) 2 1/2"
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 5 1/8"
I believe the OEM are actually a metric size. Not sure where I put them, so can't measure them.
Based on the first post in this thread, I ordered 3.5" speakers for the small speaker position in the doors. They were way too small. Had to order 4".
#359
12-14-2008, 09:51 AM
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#360
12-14-2008, 09:52 AM
Hey greystone,
Glad to hear that it went so well. I'm having a hard time getting my nerve up to switch out the speakers. Did you use the coaxial JL speakers (cxi) or the component ones (csi)?
Also...what is "the pile" that you are lining up over the **** in your post above?
Glad to hear that it went so well. I'm having a hard time getting my nerve up to switch out the speakers. Did you use the coaxial JL speakers (cxi) or the component ones (csi)?
Also...what is "the pile" that you are lining up over the **** in your post above?
Regarding the door lock ****, I just slipped the panel onto that first, then used the inside door handle as a guide to confirm I had it lined up. A second set of hands could be helpful but I found this to be an easier door panel than my M roadster and about the same as my WRX. Once you've done one (start with the passenger side) you'll be much more confident.
I used the cxi speakers based on previous reviews in the thread. Bought off Ebay for under $200 total, a good buy IMO. Absolutely no cutting to fit, just needed to drill a couple holes in the plastic for mounting screws.
#361
12-14-2008, 05:20 PM
See the gory details here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-speakers.html
But bottom line, since I was pulling pretty hard and got to the door lock button area last, I popped the rod out of the clip it goes into. And to make matters worse, I might have popped the clip out of the actuator mechanism.
It started raining right after I finished up the speakers, and I had other commitments today. So right now I have a door lock rod that can't be snapped back into place without either getting a fiber optic snake camera in there (which I will try tomorrow weather cooperating) or taking the door inner panel off which is an ugly involved process that is done by taking the glass out of the door with the inherent need to get the glass back in the same place lest there be noise or water issues.
But, as others have noted, the speaker replacement itself was very easy. I went with Polk component's and made a mounting plate for the tweeter by tracing the upper Mini speaker on a sheet of plastic and then cutting. The lower woofer needed new screw holes drilled, and were screwed in carefully so not to strip in the plastic using the original screws. Finally, the crossovers fit in the arm rest, and wires were routed appropriately.
When I get the door lock button back in place, I'll be happy. But since we have five days of rain forecast, and I have no garage, it likely will need to wait until next weekend.
But bottom line, since I was pulling pretty hard and got to the door lock button area last, I popped the rod out of the clip it goes into. And to make matters worse, I might have popped the clip out of the actuator mechanism.
It started raining right after I finished up the speakers, and I had other commitments today. So right now I have a door lock rod that can't be snapped back into place without either getting a fiber optic snake camera in there (which I will try tomorrow weather cooperating) or taking the door inner panel off which is an ugly involved process that is done by taking the glass out of the door with the inherent need to get the glass back in the same place lest there be noise or water issues.
But, as others have noted, the speaker replacement itself was very easy. I went with Polk component's and made a mounting plate for the tweeter by tracing the upper Mini speaker on a sheet of plastic and then cutting. The lower woofer needed new screw holes drilled, and were screwed in carefully so not to strip in the plastic using the original screws. Finally, the crossovers fit in the arm rest, and wires were routed appropriately.
When I get the door lock button back in place, I'll be happy. But since we have five days of rain forecast, and I have no garage, it likely will need to wait until next weekend.
#362
12-21-2008, 03:32 PM
Passenger door still apart ...
Just an update that I have an R56 service manual headed my way so that I can get the official instructions on taking the inner door panel off. I've decided I'm going to pull the door glass, carefully marking where its position so that it goes back in the exact same place.
I did replace the drivers side door speakers today. At least in my car, there was enough slack to turn the small speaker cover sideways without touching the mirror switch. However, the last tab of the cover was being obnoxious about coming loose, and the mirror switch came out. But there would have been enough wire not to pull it.
Then putting it back on, I dropped the mirror switch cover and all of the four tabs went flying. Getting the tabs back in place was actually easy once one figured out the correct orientation. I found it easier to remove the wire connectors to the mirror switch, and put the switch back in the speaker cover, then attach the wires, then snap it all back in place. Of course it will all depend on how much slack you have in your cables.
The verdict on the new Polk MM6501 components is that I am pleased with the speakers. It turns out to be a very clean install with all the cables provided with the speakers, as the stock cables are left as is. The upper speaker is unplugged and unused, and the Polk provided wire to go to the crossovers has small spades that slide right into the lower speaker stock plug (actually this wire is meant to go into spades on the wire coming off the tweeter, but the tweeter wire with the spade is plenty long enough to be routed to the crossover electronics, and the small spade can just be screwed down into the terminal block as is. Given that I got these speakers (brand new) for $139 shipped to my house, I got a great deal!
I'll take lots of pictures, and make a new post of the door disassembly processes to get my door lock **** reattached, but that will be next weekend's project.
I did replace the drivers side door speakers today. At least in my car, there was enough slack to turn the small speaker cover sideways without touching the mirror switch. However, the last tab of the cover was being obnoxious about coming loose, and the mirror switch came out. But there would have been enough wire not to pull it.
Then putting it back on, I dropped the mirror switch cover and all of the four tabs went flying. Getting the tabs back in place was actually easy once one figured out the correct orientation. I found it easier to remove the wire connectors to the mirror switch, and put the switch back in the speaker cover, then attach the wires, then snap it all back in place. Of course it will all depend on how much slack you have in your cables.
The verdict on the new Polk MM6501 components is that I am pleased with the speakers. It turns out to be a very clean install with all the cables provided with the speakers, as the stock cables are left as is. The upper speaker is unplugged and unused, and the Polk provided wire to go to the crossovers has small spades that slide right into the lower speaker stock plug (actually this wire is meant to go into spades on the wire coming off the tweeter, but the tweeter wire with the spade is plenty long enough to be routed to the crossover electronics, and the small spade can just be screwed down into the terminal block as is. Given that I got these speakers (brand new) for $139 shipped to my house, I got a great deal!
I'll take lots of pictures, and make a new post of the door disassembly processes to get my door lock **** reattached, but that will be next weekend's project.
#363
12-21-2008, 05:28 PM
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#364
12-21-2008, 06:39 PM
I used Polk MM6501. Polk calls them 6 1/2" speakers but they fit with no problem. Just have to drill four 1/8" holes for the factory screws, and screw carefully so you don't strip out the holes.
The upper speakers are tweeter components, and I just cut a piece of black ABS plastic to hold the tweeters. Take the old speaker out, trace it on the plastic, cut with a jig saw. Drill the three holes for the bolts, and use a hole saw for the tweeter mounting adaptor.
Crossovers fit in the armrest, and all the wires route from the speakers through the armrest area.
The upper speakers are tweeter components, and I just cut a piece of black ABS plastic to hold the tweeters. Take the old speaker out, trace it on the plastic, cut with a jig saw. Drill the three holes for the bolts, and use a hole saw for the tweeter mounting adaptor.
Crossovers fit in the armrest, and all the wires route from the speakers through the armrest area.
#365
12-21-2008, 07:14 PM
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#366
12-21-2008, 09:40 PM
#368
12-22-2008, 07:29 AM
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Been meaning to post, I did the full speaker swap about two weekends ago. I started at around 2 in the afternoon and finished up at a bit past midnight. Most of the time was spent dynamating.
The rear was a huge pain but only because you have to constantly shift around inside the back of the car to get at just the right spot to pull panels and then to put them back on.
The only issues I had in the rear were with the fitment of the Focal 6x9's and the c-pillars. The 6x9's I used didn't quite fit, they are currently wedged in pretty tight and I haven't had any issues on the plus side though the mounting holes lined up nicely. Also I had to trim the speaker grill to remove the mounting surface for the tweeter as the speakers I have in there are a a 2-way non-component setup. The c-pillars were an absolute pain to get back on. I snapped the clip that doesn't go through the air bag on both. They both went right on nice and tight afterward though and they haven't loosened up or rattled any since.
The fronts were quite a bit easier to do. I didn't have any problems with the mirror switch at all. The outside piece came off completely intact and went back on with out losing any pieces. It was a bit of a pain to get the lower replacement speaker to stay in the mounting hole while I screwed the new self tapping screws in. It may be helpful to use a bit of adhesive here for anyone else that has to do this. Had to snap an ear off the upper 4" speaker to get things lined up but it was much easier to mount.
All in all I have to say it was worth it. I'm not sure how much the dynamat helped though, I don't notice much of a difference but then I never could turn the volume up as high either. There is definitely a mismatch with the way frequencies are being allocated. I'm thinking an aftermarket amp will be in my future and I'll have to install some crossovers to deal with speaker separation.
The rear was a huge pain but only because you have to constantly shift around inside the back of the car to get at just the right spot to pull panels and then to put them back on.
The only issues I had in the rear were with the fitment of the Focal 6x9's and the c-pillars. The 6x9's I used didn't quite fit, they are currently wedged in pretty tight and I haven't had any issues on the plus side though the mounting holes lined up nicely. Also I had to trim the speaker grill to remove the mounting surface for the tweeter as the speakers I have in there are a a 2-way non-component setup. The c-pillars were an absolute pain to get back on. I snapped the clip that doesn't go through the air bag on both. They both went right on nice and tight afterward though and they haven't loosened up or rattled any since.
The fronts were quite a bit easier to do. I didn't have any problems with the mirror switch at all. The outside piece came off completely intact and went back on with out losing any pieces. It was a bit of a pain to get the lower replacement speaker to stay in the mounting hole while I screwed the new self tapping screws in. It may be helpful to use a bit of adhesive here for anyone else that has to do this. Had to snap an ear off the upper 4" speaker to get things lined up but it was much easier to mount.
All in all I have to say it was worth it. I'm not sure how much the dynamat helped though, I don't notice much of a difference but then I never could turn the volume up as high either. There is definitely a mismatch with the way frequencies are being allocated. I'm thinking an aftermarket amp will be in my future and I'll have to install some crossovers to deal with speaker separation.
#369
12-22-2008, 04:13 PM
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#370
12-23-2008, 07:02 AM
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May have been poor wording on my part. I was pointing out that the frequency cutoffs for the various speakers, done at the factory amp, no longer match what the speakers are capable of. Too much low going to the fronts for example and the mid range not really acting as a mid range from the sound of things.
#371
01-10-2009, 03:16 PM
Rear speakers replaced today with Polk MMC690 speakers (on clearance sale at Crutchfield for $69.99 plus shipping). Had replaced front with Polk MM6501 components last month.
Task was uneventful, but I suspect I will be stiff tomorrow from the contortions one gets in to work back there.
One variation from the previous instructions is that at least for 2009 leather seating the plastic seat anchors stay in place as they are actually clipped to the rear seat bottom and thus they do not get taken out separately.
The whole task took about three hours.
I am very pleased with the resultant sound. At this point I do not see doing the front/rear speaker swap, nor do I see that I need an amplifier as the speakers get plenty loud and sound very clear to me. In another car audio forum, everyone said I would need an amp to get the most out of the speakers, but I can't see what it would or could add other than more volume and I don't need or want to turn them up any louder.
Task was uneventful, but I suspect I will be stiff tomorrow from the contortions one gets in to work back there.
One variation from the previous instructions is that at least for 2009 leather seating the plastic seat anchors stay in place as they are actually clipped to the rear seat bottom and thus they do not get taken out separately.
The whole task took about three hours.
I am very pleased with the resultant sound. At this point I do not see doing the front/rear speaker swap, nor do I see that I need an amplifier as the speakers get plenty loud and sound very clear to me. In another car audio forum, everyone said I would need an amp to get the most out of the speakers, but I can't see what it would or could add other than more volume and I don't need or want to turn them up any louder.
#372
01-10-2009, 03:43 PM
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#373
01-10-2009, 04:39 PM
OK - I completed speaker swap on the doors today. It took about 4-5 Hrs, but I typically work slow and soldered all the connections. Here are my key comments:
- Door panels came off and went back on nicely. No issue with the door lock rod. Just knowing about it being a problem to some made me watch out for it. The pannel plugs pulls straight out, even at the hole where the lock button comes out. The button will easily move out an inch or so, so just don't pull out too far and there shouldn't an issue. Start at the lower speaker.
- Mirror switch came out just fine. Again, as I wasn't really sure how this was supposed to come apart and reading all the horror stories, I just took it slow. I pulled the speaker housing off with the last clip by the switch remaining stuck in. I pushed up on the switch/connectors and the whole thing popped out intact. There is about an inch of play in the wiring and both the speaker housing and mirror switch can be pushed off to the left and out of the way. I used a short bungy cord to pull it to the left and hold it out of the speaker area.
- Lower speaker (Infinity 6022i) needed 4 new holes drilled in the plastic housing. It was pretty easy because I used the template that came with the speakers. This speaker just barely fits when placed inside the door cover, so I wanted it to be perfectly centered. Don't overtighten the screws!
- The wiring to both speakers is really short, so I used about 6" of speaker wire to add some working room. I (optionally) left the speaker connectors in place and soldered into the harness just above them. If I ever want to return the crappy OEM speakers, the connectors are there. This probably added 1-2 hours altogether.
- The upper speaker replacement (Infinity 4022i) needed just a little cutting of the plastic inside the speaker "hole" so the magnet would clear since it was a tight fit, but no real problem. I needed to cut off one of the 4 speaker mounting tabs that interfered with the door handle, so I used 3 total (two with OEM screws and one drilled). No problem though, good and solid. I also took out the foam on the inside of the upper speaker cover since it appeared to press on the new speakers outer rubber rim (outside part of cone).
- The phasing of the old speakers gave me trouble since it wasn't marked on the OEM speakers. I couldn't tell what wire was positive and what was negative! Here is what I found on this forum and it matched up with my 09 MCS (non-hifi) system:
Right upper speaker Blue/Black +
Right upper speaker Blue/Brown -
Right lower speaker Yellow/Brown +
Right lower speaker Yellow/Black -
Left upper speaker Blue/White +
Left upper speaker Blue/Brown -
Left lower speaker Black/Red +
Left lower speaker Black/Violet -
- Everything works great and sounds clear and much less muddy. It is slightly bright (4 tweeter all together), but I turned the Treble down to -2 and it sounds good to me. I turned the bass up to +2 for now, since I haven't installed the new Infinity 9623i 6x9s that I have yet (thats for another day). I did the connector pin swap already too.
- For you speaker gurus, I realize that these Infinitys are 2.7 Ohm each (Infinity 4 Ohm approved!) and I had several contingincy plans ready just incase there was an amp loading issue. But, I wanted to see how well they worked in parallel first. I am pleased to say that I see (or hear) no issues so far and have played them pretty loud to test them out (louder than I would normally listen to music). So, at this time I just plan to use them and enjoy!
- Door panels came off and went back on nicely. No issue with the door lock rod. Just knowing about it being a problem to some made me watch out for it. The pannel plugs pulls straight out, even at the hole where the lock button comes out. The button will easily move out an inch or so, so just don't pull out too far and there shouldn't an issue. Start at the lower speaker.
- Mirror switch came out just fine. Again, as I wasn't really sure how this was supposed to come apart and reading all the horror stories, I just took it slow. I pulled the speaker housing off with the last clip by the switch remaining stuck in. I pushed up on the switch/connectors and the whole thing popped out intact. There is about an inch of play in the wiring and both the speaker housing and mirror switch can be pushed off to the left and out of the way. I used a short bungy cord to pull it to the left and hold it out of the speaker area.
- Lower speaker (Infinity 6022i) needed 4 new holes drilled in the plastic housing. It was pretty easy because I used the template that came with the speakers. This speaker just barely fits when placed inside the door cover, so I wanted it to be perfectly centered. Don't overtighten the screws!
- The wiring to both speakers is really short, so I used about 6" of speaker wire to add some working room. I (optionally) left the speaker connectors in place and soldered into the harness just above them. If I ever want to return the crappy OEM speakers, the connectors are there. This probably added 1-2 hours altogether.
- The upper speaker replacement (Infinity 4022i) needed just a little cutting of the plastic inside the speaker "hole" so the magnet would clear since it was a tight fit, but no real problem. I needed to cut off one of the 4 speaker mounting tabs that interfered with the door handle, so I used 3 total (two with OEM screws and one drilled). No problem though, good and solid. I also took out the foam on the inside of the upper speaker cover since it appeared to press on the new speakers outer rubber rim (outside part of cone).
- The phasing of the old speakers gave me trouble since it wasn't marked on the OEM speakers. I couldn't tell what wire was positive and what was negative! Here is what I found on this forum and it matched up with my 09 MCS (non-hifi) system:
Right upper speaker Blue/Black +
Right upper speaker Blue/Brown -
Right lower speaker Yellow/Brown +
Right lower speaker Yellow/Black -
Left upper speaker Blue/White +
Left upper speaker Blue/Brown -
Left lower speaker Black/Red +
Left lower speaker Black/Violet -
- Everything works great and sounds clear and much less muddy. It is slightly bright (4 tweeter all together), but I turned the Treble down to -2 and it sounds good to me. I turned the bass up to +2 for now, since I haven't installed the new Infinity 9623i 6x9s that I have yet (thats for another day). I did the connector pin swap already too.
- For you speaker gurus, I realize that these Infinitys are 2.7 Ohm each (Infinity 4 Ohm approved!) and I had several contingincy plans ready just incase there was an amp loading issue. But, I wanted to see how well they worked in parallel first. I am pleased to say that I see (or hear) no issues so far and have played them pretty loud to test them out (louder than I would normally listen to music). So, at this time I just plan to use them and enjoy!
#374
01-13-2009, 08:24 PM
Me and a friend spent about 3 hours today installing the 3 way component Focal speakers into the front. I did not use the crossovers that came with the Focals and I did not install an amp. I have (had) the HiFi system.
The stock driver speaker in the HiFi system is LESS than 2 ohms. The 6.5" driver for the Focal was 3.5 ohms. I was afraid the stock amp would not be able to play them loud. I had nothing to fear.
I turned the fader all the way forward so I wouldn't hear the 6x9s in the back. The sound is SO much better than before. Just the front Focals put out much more distortion free bass than the stock system including the 6x9s. Right now I have the fader to about 80% front as the stock 6x9s sound horrible compared to the focals.
The system goes pretty loud before the amp starts runnning out of juice. Not earsplitting loud but loud enough that if you listened to it for 20 minutes just before the distortion (from the amp) threshhold your ears would probably be ringing afterwards. Although you could turn the stock speakers up as loud it sounded like crap way before that level. The level of detail, crispness and CLEANness is a whole different level. I'm sure if I used a good aftermarket amp it would go to yet a whole other level. For me it may not be worth the extra effort.
On to details of the install. First removed the door panel as outmotoring explained. Pull the pin under the door handle and the are MANY pop-clips holding the panel on. The first two on the drivers side had been smashed at the factory when the panel was originally put on. I should have gotten spare clips before I started the job so I could replace them.
The round peice with the mirror controls gave me the most problems. The mirror control came apart and was not exactly easy to put back together and remount into it's hold. Of course on the passenger side the same round piece was very easy. Push the outside portions of the round piece toward the center of the round piece to make removeing them easier. If you reach under the door panel to pop the inner clips be sure not to touch the light on the bottom portion that lights up the ground - it gets very hot. Trust me.
The 6.5" focals did not quite fit into the circular speaker mount. I used a dremel around the inside edge just a little bit and then the speaker fit very snug and secure. I had to drill new holes for the screws. On the midrange speaker I had to cut off one of the four screw tabs so the circular piece would fit around it. I cut the wires that held the proprietary clips that feed the speakers an inch back from the speakers so when I get a new MINI I have enough wire left to be able to put the stock speakers back in. I then soldered the correct speaker connection to a longer peice of speaker wire which I had soldered to the stock speaker wire feed.
The tweeters went into the stock location. On the A pillar near the top is an oval looking piece of plastic that says "airbag". I used a very small flat head screwdriver to pry the portion closest to the rear out. The whole piece came out easily after that. Do not try to pry out the front portion of it. You'll understand why when you see how it is mounted in there. Under the airbad piece is a screw. Remove the screw. Starting at the top pull the A piller cover off. There are two pop clips holding it on. At the botton there are two tabs that slide into slots on the dash. It is very easy to take off.
The focal tweeter fits into the mounting hole of the stock tweeter pretty well. I used hot glue to hold it in place. I also kept the capacitor that the stock speaker used for a "crossover" since I was not using the crossovers that came with the focals.
Putting the A-pillar cover back on is a little trickier. Be sure to pull the rubber door moulding most of the way off before re-installing the A-piller cover. Start at the bottom with putting the tabs into the grooves and forcing the cover down as far as possible. B careful that you get the pop clips lined up with the holes and don't drop one of the clips into the nether regions of the dash as I did on the drivers side (note - it hasn't started rattling around in there yet). Once it is clipped back in (and the screw screwed in) push the rubbermoulding back into place.
I have the Focal 6x9s ready to install but I'm not sure when I'll have the time. I expect it to be a several hour job to do because you basically have to strip everything from the b-pillar back. It WILL be worth it though.
To anyone who want to upgrade the stock speakers - I HIGHLY recommend the brand Focal. Yes, they are quite a bit more expensive than anything you can buy at circuit city or best buy but there is a reason for that. You get what you pay for. Check e-bay for the best deals. For the MINI I'd recommend getting the polyglass line. It is the second tier of 4 tiers that Focal makes. The 3rd tier - Polykevlar will NOT fit. The 6.5" driver that comes with them has a HUGE deep magnet. Forget the Utopia line for the same reason.
If you do not have the HiFi system you will need an aftermarket amp for Focal speakers. The Hifi amp drives them adequately. I know if I went through the pain of installing an aftermarket amp with the speakers I have now I would be in musical Nirvana. The only reason I don't is my MINI is on a 2 year lease and I know I'll be getting a new one when the lease is up. (besides I'm pretty happy with it now).
I'll post details of the 6x9 install when I do it but I don't expect that to be for awhile.
I only took one pic (which I'll post later). I had planned on photo blogging the whole process but I started at 5:30 pm after work and just wanted to get it done. Besides, everything but the A-pillar removal has been posted and that is pretty easy..
edit:
now how did that post twice???
if a mod could kindly delete the post before this one I'd appreciate it.
EDIT 2:
holy crap I'm happy. Just went cruising for an hour. The Focals need time for breakin also. After one hour I am amazed at how good it sounds with rock. REALLY good.
The only thing missing right now is DEEP bass. Hopefully that will come with the 6x9s.
I also made an mp3 cd for the first time. I burnt them as a data disk to cd - several whole albums of various bit rates - all above 128kbps/sec and I love the way the headunit handles it. It show each album which of course you can scroll through.. Push the big button to select an album then scroll through the individual songs. Awesome.
I am tickled pink right now.
Skuzzy, you are going to love these speakers. which ones total did you get?
The stock driver speaker in the HiFi system is LESS than 2 ohms. The 6.5" driver for the Focal was 3.5 ohms. I was afraid the stock amp would not be able to play them loud. I had nothing to fear.
I turned the fader all the way forward so I wouldn't hear the 6x9s in the back. The sound is SO much better than before. Just the front Focals put out much more distortion free bass than the stock system including the 6x9s. Right now I have the fader to about 80% front as the stock 6x9s sound horrible compared to the focals.
The system goes pretty loud before the amp starts runnning out of juice. Not earsplitting loud but loud enough that if you listened to it for 20 minutes just before the distortion (from the amp) threshhold your ears would probably be ringing afterwards. Although you could turn the stock speakers up as loud it sounded like crap way before that level. The level of detail, crispness and CLEANness is a whole different level. I'm sure if I used a good aftermarket amp it would go to yet a whole other level. For me it may not be worth the extra effort.
On to details of the install. First removed the door panel as outmotoring explained. Pull the pin under the door handle and the are MANY pop-clips holding the panel on. The first two on the drivers side had been smashed at the factory when the panel was originally put on. I should have gotten spare clips before I started the job so I could replace them.
The round peice with the mirror controls gave me the most problems. The mirror control came apart and was not exactly easy to put back together and remount into it's hold. Of course on the passenger side the same round piece was very easy. Push the outside portions of the round piece toward the center of the round piece to make removeing them easier. If you reach under the door panel to pop the inner clips be sure not to touch the light on the bottom portion that lights up the ground - it gets very hot. Trust me.
The 6.5" focals did not quite fit into the circular speaker mount. I used a dremel around the inside edge just a little bit and then the speaker fit very snug and secure. I had to drill new holes for the screws. On the midrange speaker I had to cut off one of the four screw tabs so the circular piece would fit around it. I cut the wires that held the proprietary clips that feed the speakers an inch back from the speakers so when I get a new MINI I have enough wire left to be able to put the stock speakers back in. I then soldered the correct speaker connection to a longer peice of speaker wire which I had soldered to the stock speaker wire feed.
The tweeters went into the stock location. On the A pillar near the top is an oval looking piece of plastic that says "airbag". I used a very small flat head screwdriver to pry the portion closest to the rear out. The whole piece came out easily after that. Do not try to pry out the front portion of it. You'll understand why when you see how it is mounted in there. Under the airbad piece is a screw. Remove the screw. Starting at the top pull the A piller cover off. There are two pop clips holding it on. At the botton there are two tabs that slide into slots on the dash. It is very easy to take off.
The focal tweeter fits into the mounting hole of the stock tweeter pretty well. I used hot glue to hold it in place. I also kept the capacitor that the stock speaker used for a "crossover" since I was not using the crossovers that came with the focals.
Putting the A-pillar cover back on is a little trickier. Be sure to pull the rubber door moulding most of the way off before re-installing the A-piller cover. Start at the bottom with putting the tabs into the grooves and forcing the cover down as far as possible. B careful that you get the pop clips lined up with the holes and don't drop one of the clips into the nether regions of the dash as I did on the drivers side (note - it hasn't started rattling around in there yet). Once it is clipped back in (and the screw screwed in) push the rubbermoulding back into place.
I have the Focal 6x9s ready to install but I'm not sure when I'll have the time. I expect it to be a several hour job to do because you basically have to strip everything from the b-pillar back. It WILL be worth it though.
To anyone who want to upgrade the stock speakers - I HIGHLY recommend the brand Focal. Yes, they are quite a bit more expensive than anything you can buy at circuit city or best buy but there is a reason for that. You get what you pay for. Check e-bay for the best deals. For the MINI I'd recommend getting the polyglass line. It is the second tier of 4 tiers that Focal makes. The 3rd tier - Polykevlar will NOT fit. The 6.5" driver that comes with them has a HUGE deep magnet. Forget the Utopia line for the same reason.
If you do not have the HiFi system you will need an aftermarket amp for Focal speakers. The Hifi amp drives them adequately. I know if I went through the pain of installing an aftermarket amp with the speakers I have now I would be in musical Nirvana. The only reason I don't is my MINI is on a 2 year lease and I know I'll be getting a new one when the lease is up. (besides I'm pretty happy with it now).
I'll post details of the 6x9 install when I do it but I don't expect that to be for awhile.
I only took one pic (which I'll post later). I had planned on photo blogging the whole process but I started at 5:30 pm after work and just wanted to get it done. Besides, everything but the A-pillar removal has been posted and that is pretty easy..
edit:
now how did that post twice???
if a mod could kindly delete the post before this one I'd appreciate it.
EDIT 2:
holy crap I'm happy. Just went cruising for an hour. The Focals need time for breakin also. After one hour I am amazed at how good it sounds with rock. REALLY good.
The only thing missing right now is DEEP bass. Hopefully that will come with the 6x9s.
I also made an mp3 cd for the first time. I burnt them as a data disk to cd - several whole albums of various bit rates - all above 128kbps/sec and I love the way the headunit handles it. It show each album which of course you can scroll through.. Push the big button to select an album then scroll through the individual songs. Awesome.
I am tickled pink right now.
Skuzzy, you are going to love these speakers. which ones total did you get?
Thanks in advance!
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01-14-2009, 02:09 PM
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