Thanks for the info. How did you connect the front 4 channels? Some of these systems let you add 2(speakers)-4(normaly a speaker and tweeter) -6 (the hi-fi setup) front channels and "sum up the frecuencies" to create two full spectrum channels? Not sure if this ones does it. The JL clean sweep seems to do it, but it doesn't have the cool set up mic. Can't find evidence the alpine does it...

 

Yes the Alpine allows you to sum up multiple channels but it is not needed because on the Mini standard system, the 6" and the 4" drivers are wired in parallel with no crossovers. They get exactly the same signal.

IMO the Cleansweep is pointless on the mini because the mini's signal is fine.

 

^ sweet.... Thanks again, very helpfull!!! So in this case the hi-fi actually has only 4 channels in the front (FL x 2, FLHP, FR x 2, FRHP) so I only need two "sum up" the tweeters and any door speaker, or is it "crossedover" in Hi-fi? My dealer is ofering me a sweet deal in a 09 JCW clubman and it allready has hi-fi and I'm considering it...

 

Hey guys,

I have an '09 MCS with the HiFi. About two months ago I got some replacement speakers for the front (Infinity Kappa 42.7i (4") and Kappa 60.9cs (6.5" + tweeters)). At first I thought I'd try installing them myself but I just don't feel comfortable doing it. Is there anyone in the San Diego area willing to do or help me do the install sometime? PM me if so... Thanks

Nick

 

PM sent.

 

Installed Infinity 6022si's in the lower fronts today in about an hour. Everything went like clockwork thanks to all the info posted in this thread. Whoever posted the note about marking the clip positions with masking tape -this was genius - made for easy replacement. (I have the non-hifi six speaker config.)

The increase in clarity is unbelievable, even with the the 3.5's in place and connected. I think I will replace these with Infinity Reference 3022cf's. Am I correct in assuming that I will not have to remove the door panels, only the speaker covers? Is there any fleeting advice about the mirror control on the drivers side? Some posts say it is a nightmare, while others say it was not a problem at all. What makes the difference?

Again thanks to all who have posted here.

 

Sorry, but the door panels will need to come off before you can take the smaller 3 1/2" speaker covers off.

Some of us have been able to leave the mirror switch on the drivers side speaker cover and just rotate the cover out of the way once unsnapped. Others said they needed to remove the mirror switch from the cover because their harness was too tight.

I ended up removing my mirror switch, and then dropped it and had the little paddles fall out. It took a little bit of time to figure out how they went back in / on, but I did figure it out and get it all put back together.

My problem was accidentally pulling the door lock out of its clip / holder, but I got that put back together too.

As the Nike commercial says, just do it!

 

Charlie - thanks for the info. At least now - I'm a pro at the door panel removal! Thanks for the heads up on the switch and the door lock - I was repositioning the rod all over the place trying to line it up - glad mine didn't come apart. 90% of any job is knowing what to look out for.



The drive to work was much more enjoyable - but eventually faded everything to the front. I know it's coming but I'm still not confortable enough to take on the 6X9's yet - maybe after tha car is a year old or so....

 

I replaced the fronts first and then after about three weeks I decided to do the rears. The rears actually were not as bad as I thought they would be -- they do take a while to do (maybe an hour per side going slowly and carefully) and you find that you will getting yourself into all kinds of fun positions as you take the various panels off.

The seats and panels remove pretty easily. Key items are to be careful with the air bags in the rear most C panel, and be careful not to stab yourself on exposed screws/bolts when the seats are removed.

I am very happy with my rears, but I do wish the frequency roll-off was not there on the rear speakers.

 

I was concerned about the 6x9s as well, but here's my "I've never done this kinda thing before" information:

There are two types of plastic "pop rivets". Make a note of which go where. Other than that, there are 3 or 4 locations for the christmas tree snaps on the side panels where the 6x9s are. Just know where these are and make sure things are lined up before giving a hearty hit to pop them back in place.

Also, the side panels, at least in my 08, were held at the top by 4 aluminum clips. Solely prying back on the panel WILL BREAK THESE CLIPS. Ask me how I know... Anyhow, I now only have two on each side, but no rattles. I could not get the C-pillars back in place with one of the christmas tree snaps where it was when I removed the pillar (the one that goes through the airbag). So I just popped the snap in place THEN put the pillar back. The one snap that IS on the pillar plus the torx bit worked fine.

It's fairly simple, but I definitely understand the concern. After all, it took me longer to put the back together than it did for Rob and John to finish the front speakers. Now I just have to get the nerve to tackle the tweeters so I stop hearing them give out at the high end.

 

Do you have the Hi-Fi? Are you considering the X9331 re-pin job? Some people have said that if the front speakers are replaced, you may not want to do this if you plan on leaving it this way, since the full signal is going to the front.

I am going back into the front this weekend - I ordered some replacement 3.5" Infinity's (I niavely thought I didn't need to remove the panels) and I decided to put in some XTC baffles (mainly to protect from wet windows). I plan to cut a 1.5 inch hole in the bottom to route the wiring and create a "ported" enclosure. Any insight here?

 

Man - this is a great thread. Still not convinced to tackle the rears yet, but I am making a "How-to" using all of this personal experience. Keep it coming - I still need convincing I can do this to my brand new car!

 

I should've specified that you can pop the panel from the bottom, then lift to remove it from the aluminum clips. But yeah, just take your time, and you'll be fine

 

Don't do the swap on a HIFI system. The amp is in the rear of the car, and that seems to be where the filtering is done. The X9331 connector has full signal for front and rear in the HIFI.

Baffles kill the bass, do don't do it on the 6" speakers. An Infinity tech told me that the Infinity Kappas (probably applies to all their car speakers) were designed to operate in "free air". A few people have posted here about using baffles and having to remove them to restore quality sound.

 

I have the non-HiFi. I was wondering whether the swap made sense without replacing the rear speakers.

I can now unequivocally confirm this. I put the baffle in one side, and the bass all but went away, even with the "port" hole. So I wasted 7 bucks on them. I did like the protection they would provide, but it is not worth the degradation of bass.

Now I am waiting for my Infinity 3022cf's to arrive. Come on Brown...get here soon!

 

My Infinity 3022cf's arrived today, and I got them installed, although I too struggled with the mirror switch. I thought I was golden, as the switch stayed together as I removed the cover. I got the speakers installed, but as I started to replace the cover - the switch came apart - although I didn't know it. As I powered up the car - the mirror completely retracted! It was then that I knew I had problems. After 3 times of un-installing the cover and switch, I finally was successful in getting the switch installed correctly.



While in the door, I tried installing bafflles. This was a bad idea. It eliminated all of the bass. If you ever are considering bass blockers, then this is a good alternative. I removed them and threw them away.

The sound is absolutely unbelievable. The increase in clarity is phenomenal. Bass is tight, not boomy. Plenty of volume for my taste. I think the 6022si's and 3022cf's compliment each other nicely.

I'm still not ready to take on the rears yet - but I know it's coming.

 

I am inching towards replacing my rears. At least I am willing to start accumulating the necessary materials. I think I may also try to dynamat the back while I have everything out. I have a few questions:

1) Should I go with 3 ways or 2 ways in the rear to compliment Infinity Reference 6022si's (3 ways) and 3022cf's (2 ways) in the front with an SSL Soundstorm USS8 sub (same as a BOSS Bass 600)?

2) Has anyone bought from Dealer Cost Audio? Their prices almost seem to good to be true. Case in point - the Infinity 9623i's which sell for $130+ almost everywhere sell for $77 at their site.

 

3-way coaxials are a gimmick and have no benefit. If anything, they are worse, because they are targeted towards people who don't know any better. If anything, I would go 1-way in the back. The more tweeters you have, the more imaging gets lost. More speakers does not equal better sound. At best, it can average out some of the weaknesses.

Get the sub first, it's going to make a lot bigger and more positive difference than replacing the back speakers.

 

Replace the crappy rears ... HOWEVER you can justify it. Anything that's more efficient that what came with the car back there is a marked improvement.

I consider myself a "Scottish audiophile": I know good (and bad) sound when I hear it, but also know that we're talking about the inside of a one-cubic-yard metal box that's filled with eccentrically-shaped foam blocks, which is an audio environment that will resist improvement no matter how much $$ is thrown at the problem. The simple act of swapping my rears for some efficient two-ways massively improved both bass response and overall clarity, and that can be easily done for $100-$200; mine were foundlings and cost $0. I absolutely respect the many folks here who have sworn by the BOSS-box for some additional thumpa-thumpa -- but my fix and the new fronts was "plenty good enough" for me, so I took a pass after that.

Suggestion: get the crappy OEM 6x9s out, put anything better in their place, and maybe snake the wiring for a sub through the back as long as you have everything opened up -- that way you can always go back and add the sub later.

 

Well, I guess I'm in that "people that don't know any better" category- but I working with a lot of advice from people that seem very happy after replacing the stock speakers drivers with multi-driver aftermarket stuff. I believe that good sound is in the ear of the beholder. I'm a Klipcsh-o-phile at home, but I have a friend that has one of those Bose 3-2-1 systems that I think is a piece of crap, both in sound and construction. But he thinks it sounds GREAT, and he's happier than a pig in sh*t. That's what really matters, to each his own.

 

Basil49,

Thanks for your thoughtful response. I did install the SSL Sub this weekend, but we have had some much unexpected snow (7 inches - damn near a blizzard for Central Virginia!) I haven't been able to drive it - I've been back in my VW Touareg. All my testing has been in the driveway. It sounds pretty damn good with the fader +3 to the front. But on certain songs, I still hear that "muddy" bass, and by fading all the way to the front (or cranking up the SSL), it goes away, which leads me to believe I need to replace the rears to be truly happy.

Thanks again for all your helpful tips- they were really great when I did the door panel removals (twice!). When the weather gets warm, I'm in for "tearing up" my MINI. Hopefully, it'll go back together easily!

 

I used Infinity Kappa 693.7i 6"x9" 3-way car speakers and regret it. I've disconnected the leads to the two center tweety things (one is supposed to be a midrange driver, and the other a tweeter). The A pillar tweeters are more than enough for the MINI to my ears.

 

I'm sure that tweeters in the A-pillars is ideal for the highs. I considered buying the aftermarket A-pillars with the tweeter enclosures built it, but decided against it. The Infinity Reference have adjustable tweeters, so I aimed them up in the 6.5"and boosted them +3db. It helped, but the highs were still a little lacking. When I replaced the 3.5's, I turned the 6.5" back to 0 db boost. The tweeters being higher in the 3.5 position helped immensely, so I didn't boost them, but did turn them to face up.

I'm sure from the A-pillar position, it delivers the highs across the car very nicely.

 

Those are 2 ohm spkrs correct? & thought the head unit in the Non-hifi was 4 ohm? or do I have it backwards?

 

yes they do although any SQ stereo buff will tell you to have the tweeters closer to the drivers for the best imaging.

I'm fine with them in the a-pillar.