The focals look great, but given that I do not have a HiFi system and also that Crutchfield is having a big sale right now where I get ~30% off the speakers as well as two pairs of H/K headphones worth $150 each MSRP, I think I'll go with the infinity refs. I am of the "mp3 generation" so I doubt that I will notice the difference between the focals and the infinities. I can def notice that the current speakers are horrible, but I think you'd have to be deaf not to.

I'll probably go the same route that you did euells, in terms of installing the 6.5s first (and possibly installing the 3.5s while I'm at it). I'll probably wait a couple of weeks until installing the 6x9s.

I haven't really looked into the sub yet, but I eventually will. I might look into an amp when I do. I fully plan to drag out this process so that I don't overwhelm myself in one weekend :-).

Thanks for all of the advice!

 

I very much hope you are talking about a 2 way speaker set and NOT the focal 3 ways. It would be insane to leave out the midrange speaker on the 3 way.

 

Yes stay away from 3 way speakers unless you know some one who can fabricate and tune really well.

 

You should go listen to them both and make up you mind that way

The focal access line is one the best sounding speakers for they money on the market and the tweeter is small.

The Crutchfield deal is not that good of a deal look up the Infinity speakers on ebay you can get em cheap and you are not paying for a set of overpriced crappy headphones.
If you want a set of headphones buy a pair of Shures with the money you save.

If you are dead set on the Infinity speakers listen to the Polks as well they are same price and sound much better.
Infinity is a company that is riding the coat tails of its founder back when they actually made speakers , this is not the case today. They are just another company putting their name on someone elses speakers.

Remember you pay for what you get otherwise we would all be on a Kia forum

 

you haven't heard my system.

 

I don't need to hear it ,
I am sure it sounds nice to you
based on where the 3.5" speaker is it cannot image properly unless you have some serious time correction in your system.

What do you have ?

 

I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for helping me to swap out my speakers and install a Boss Bass1200 in the boot.

I went with Infinity 60.9cs, Infinity 42.7i and Infinity 692.9i - all of them fit perfectly.

Thanks again!

 

I'm running a rockford 360.2 for time correction/delays/equalization. It sounded good even before I put that in there though. It's just better with it.

I can put the image right in front of my face.

 

What speakers?

 

Just take your time. Each step will sound incrementally better. The Sub most people are dropping in is either the SSL Soundstorm or Boss Bass600. Both have a built in amp, and are all self contained. If you want to add an amp to entire system, you probably want to make that decision before you replace the rears, as it is a lot of work to get to them. I have detailed instructions I can send you when you are ready for the rears.

 

focal polyglass 3 way. See first or second page of this thread for details.

 

I agree with your brand choice

My point is this
you would get better sound from a K series 2 way vs your polyglass 3 way and easier to setup.

As i have never owned Polyglass I have put them in a ton of cars and they sound great. The K Series are definatly a step above the Polys in terms of midbass response and overall detail.


I looked at that Fosgate piece and you need to have some car audio experience to have that piece actually help you. Most people with EQ crossovers etc. end up doing more harm than good.
The average person on here is not going to have that piece to help nor know how to use it , so it would be easier and wiser to stick with the 2 ways.

How do you like the Fosgate piece?
I am looking at that or the alpine , or might just slap a Clarion Drz-9255 in the secret spot.

 

I am aware of the shures (I have a set) but I could always turn around and sell the hk headphones myself if I don't want them -- thats why I think that they are a good deal. I also hate dealing with ebay, and would much rather pay a small premium to know that I'm getting what I paid for. Plus, I ordered everything last night and got the package today! How's that for a fast turnaround (probably has to do with less orders in a troubled economy)! Anyhow, still appreciate the advice.

 

I have the kevlar series in my truck. Hands down no contest. The K-series are better. I just didn't think the woofer would fit in the door of the MINI.

The polyglass are probably better than 90% of the general population have ever heard. I'm running 140w rms to each side. (seldom actually push it all the way - it get's a bit loud)

Now if I could just afford some utopias.. I'd find a way to make them fit even if it meant using a sawzall.

I really like the 360.2. You set it up using a palm pilot or smart phone via bluetooth. there is an ungodly number of equalizer bands that you can set for each individual speaker (components counts as 1 speaker per crossover). plus your time delays, and cutoff freqs

 

I replaced my fronts yesterday and the difference is astounding! The only problem now is that I had to set my fader all the way to the front because the rears sound so bad!

I think I will replace my fronts very soon -- euells, do you have those detailed instructions for the back?

 

Here you go.

 

The 165 KF are about the same mounting depth as the Polys
I agree these are great speakers, except the slim mount 6.5" Polys I do not like those.
As far as power goes what kind of amp do you have on them?
I am running my Focal Utopia Be's at 110W at each tweet and 110 W at each woofer off of a STEG amp . Thois amp has some power and is incredibly clean sounds so good I removed my sub. If fact the Utopia Be speakers sound so good they will ruin you from other speakers The tweeters play so low you would swear there is a woofer close by.
I looked back at all the speakes I have purchased for different vehicles added them up and realized how much money I was loosing by changing speakers so often, it was a no brainer for me to spend the cash on the kit no 6 as I will keep these for a very long time. Not to mention I know these are about as good as it gets in the car audio world.

Why would you even put anything in the back , they hurt you more than help you . Keep your fade to the front and enjoy decent sound.

When was the last time you went to a concert and the band stood behind you?

 

Thanks for all of your help Euells (as well as the rest of the posters!) -- I was able to replace everything this weekend. The difference is astounding! The rear was a little bit trickier than the front, but not by much. The only hard part (for me) was to have the confidence to pull the panels out (I was afraid of breaking the little plastic clips, but did not end up damaging any because I was careful and conscious about which way I pulled). Here is some of the advice that I have for future modders...

+ Be careful about which way that you pull the panels off. For the rears, you can pull the lower edges to the side, but you don't want to do that for the upper portion close to the window. Instead, you will want to pull up because there are metal clamps which will break if you pull the entire panel to the side.

+ For 2009 models, ignore the bit about removing the black plastic baby seat restraint clamps. They are not easily removable and you are only making more work for yourself.

+ For 2009 models, the wire color-scheme appears to be different (the fronts were the same as posted, but the rears were entirely different). You can tell which wire is positive by looking at the existing black plastic connector (which you will cut off to get to the wires). On the connector there is a '+' for the positive wire.

 

This, again, is a personal preference. Replacing the rears most definitely do not hurt me more than help me. In fact, to me, they made an enormous difference!

This is exactly why portions of the AVS Forum have to be shut down. Any arguments (in the Socratic sense) about audio are usually wasted. In the end, the most important thing is to listen (to your system) and be satisfied with your setup.

 

Agreed. I should have posted this - there is no need to remove them

Interesting - mine matched exactly with what was posted. Maybe there is some variation here?

I'm glad you are pleased with your new setup. I couldn't be happier with mine.

 

Well said. Maybe this will cut down on the banter and restore this thread to what it was meant to do - help folks replace the OEM speakers in their MINIs.
What they choose to replace them with is their own personal choice.

 

Not sure, I should've written down what I saw because now I can't remember. I was using a printout for my wiring (a scanned, handwritten sheet of paper that someone on the forum posted -- I can't find it right now). The printout might've been a bit old. I ended up testing each speaker as I put it in anyhow. You just have to make sure that the speaker is vibrating outwards rather than inwards.

 

Originally, I want to replace the head unit but it would have been a big job so I only replace the original speakers with 3 sets of Boston Acoustic

Top Door Panel Speakers are 3 1/2" — 4 Ohms
Boston Acoustics S35 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers: $40

Bottom Door Panel Speakers are 5 1/4" — 4 Ohms
Boston Acoustics SX55 5-1/4" 2-way car speaker: $80

Back Speakers are 6" x 9" — 4 Ohms
Boston Acoustics SX95 6"x9" 2-way car speakers: $120
(this one is a little tight but it fits)

Over all, you get a lot more clearer sounds and more bass. MINI is so small that it would sounds ridiculous with Subwoofer installed—I just want a better fuller sounds but not all the thumping . I also opted for no amp because I think the new speakers are good enough over the OEM speakers.

Trust me the new speakers are so worth it and if you are going to do it, change all of them the 6" x 9" is hard to get to but you will be glad when you hear the different.

 

For anyone with the Park Distance Control, it only sends sound to the rear speakers. So, disabling the rear speakers would disable this feature.

 

Sorry for not wading through 20 pages of posts, but does replacing the front speakers require any soldering or is it simply "plug and play"? I definitely want to do this at some point.