Navigation & Audio R56 speaker replacement how-to
#826
06-04-2011, 01:11 PM
4th Gear
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I understand the limitations of my budget and what I want to do, i'm not looking for perfection i'm just looking for the easiest install (least amount of wiring) and to improve things as best I can within a reasonable budget.
It's just overwhelming going on crutchfield and seeing ALL the options and of course their Mini info is lacking as far as speaker type...I know what sizes fit...but what speakers should I replace with 3 way, what ones with 2 way, and any with component? Can I mix and match speaker brands with good results? They all seem to have built in tweeters...is that a bad thing?!
I'm not an audiophile by any means, I just want something that I will be able to tell is better than stock (shouldn't be hard) without spending a fortune and going above my skill level with wiring...
I don't mind continuing this discussion with someone via PM as to not clutter up this thread any more. I just need help and i'm clueless as far as car stereo stuff goes...
Oh and the budget is partially because i'm doing some major repairs on my car mechanically so i'm dumping money into that...but I have a $500 credit at Crutchfield from a friend of mine for paint work I did for him.
It's just overwhelming going on crutchfield and seeing ALL the options and of course their Mini info is lacking as far as speaker type...I know what sizes fit...but what speakers should I replace with 3 way, what ones with 2 way, and any with component? Can I mix and match speaker brands with good results? They all seem to have built in tweeters...is that a bad thing?!
I'm not an audiophile by any means, I just want something that I will be able to tell is better than stock (shouldn't be hard) without spending a fortune and going above my skill level with wiring...
I don't mind continuing this discussion with someone via PM as to not clutter up this thread any more. I just need help and i'm clueless as far as car stereo stuff goes...
Oh and the budget is partially because i'm doing some major repairs on my car mechanically so i'm dumping money into that...but I have a $500 credit at Crutchfield from a friend of mine for paint work I did for him.
#827
06-04-2011, 04:15 PM
6th Gear
#828
06-05-2011, 05:48 AM
I liked Integral Audio's response. But I do understand your budget conscious position. I wouldn't recommend mixing new speakers with the stock tweeters. I'd replace them all. Now, if you don't notice enough improvement, then you will be primed for a new amp. Like Integral said, the options expand when new amp is in the solution.
#829
06-05-2011, 01:32 PM
It's just overwhelming going on crutchfield and seeing ALL the options and of course their Mini info is lacking as far as speaker type...I know what sizes fit...but what speakers should I replace with 3 way, what ones with 2 way, and any with component? Can I mix and match speaker brands with good results? They all seem to have built in tweeters...is that a bad thing?!
Derepente's suggestion is a good one if budget prevents you from properly dealing with bypassing the HiFi amp right now - but just make sure you understand how and why you must use only the tweeter section of the crossover for now. If you don't, you risk damaging your new tweeter!
#830
08-28-2011, 09:49 PM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I'm finally finished updating the lame cd boost stock system that came with my base 2010 Mini Cooper. The only thing that survived was the stock headunit for obvious reasons ( see other threads) I replaced the door speakers with a pair of Polk 6501 component speakers. That helped capture a good deal of the high frequency response I was missing from the stock system, but it was still not enough, so I replaced the rear speakers with a pair of Polk MM691's. After replacing the rear speakers, I felt I was within 90% of where I wanted to be - heck I don't need 113 db all of the time, but some of those poor audio recordings from the 60's realy need some more power to come alive and being almost 50 yo this was something I just had to have even if I would end up with a system that was a total overkill. So the next order of business was to install the MRP-300 4 Channel amp. Yes, I concede this was an overkill considering the small cabin size of the car, but it sure brought those Polk MM's to life which seem to thrive on just a little bit more power than the stock head unit can provide. Anyway, now I have a Music box on wheels which I feel rivals my home audio equipment- which in itself is a sick benchmark as that system is plain nuts ! BTW, my system was installed by Will G. at BestBuy in North Austin at the Gateway PLaza store - needless to say I highly endorse him - he's been in the biz for 11 years and is a professional. If anyone in Austin would like to hear my system before taking the plunge just e-mail me. Peter
Last edited by pjdaustin; 09-26-2011 at 09:02 PM.
#831
09-20-2011, 08:49 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Meadow Vista, CA
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just finished installing the Polk 6501s in the front doors. Thanks to this thread, not too much trouble. I did find that the wiring to my upper speaker in the driver door was not working. So, I ended up using the woofer feed, and all seems balanced with the other side where I used the upper to feed the crossovers.
I hid the crossovers in the door armrests... that works VERY well. I just wrapped them in a little foam I got in a mail package, leaving the vent holes open, and stuffed them in there.
I had a little trouble getting the mirror control back in... I ended up taking the wires off, reattaching the inner part to the controller, reattaching the wires, and then I ran into trouble trying to get the whole thing back onto the door. For some reason, it didn't want to fit back in there right. After enough messing around, it snapped back in. Whew.
Should keep me happy for the time being. I can see wanting a sub though, I just hate to give up any room in the boot. Anyone got one to work under a seat or somewhere else?
I hid the crossovers in the door armrests... that works VERY well. I just wrapped them in a little foam I got in a mail package, leaving the vent holes open, and stuffed them in there.
I had a little trouble getting the mirror control back in... I ended up taking the wires off, reattaching the inner part to the controller, reattaching the wires, and then I ran into trouble trying to get the whole thing back onto the door. For some reason, it didn't want to fit back in there right. After enough messing around, it snapped back in. Whew.
Should keep me happy for the time being. I can see wanting a sub though, I just hate to give up any room in the boot. Anyone got one to work under a seat or somewhere else?
#832
09-20-2011, 09:26 PM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hope you installed the MM and not the dB series. - there is a huge difference ! BTW, I recommend the Polk MM 691's for the rear too. Add an Alpine Amp (FRP-300 ) in the boot ; stick the jack styro pack under the passenger seat and you will not need a sub woofer. I can feel my body parts move when I turn my system up to a jam level and could dislocate an organ if I chose to blast it. BTW, if you install an amp yourself make sure you know what you are doing, or whoever is installing it knows their BMW specific electronics, or you will create a huge and quite expensive mess. BTW, if you want to illuminate your boot nicely replace that stock 5w 168 bulb with a cool white LED available from SuperbrightLEDs.com
Last edited by pjdaustin; 09-26-2011 at 09:04 PM.
#833
10-17-2011, 04:47 AM
Thanks for all of the advice in this thread. I just completed the passenger side install of Polk db6501s and the improvement is noticeable. Wanted to share a few pics for others attempting this; as a newbie to car stereo installation, a picture is worth a thousand words.
One thing I decided to do is to use the shell of the upper speaker as a template to mount the Polk tweeter. This worked pretty well by combining the surface mount cup with the flush mount clip that Polk provides in the packaging. After using a Dremel to cut out the old speakers, all that was required was to bend the clip to allow the bolt to protrude through the center hole of the cup and use a shallow #8 nut to secure it in place.
I also took the time to rattle can the door panel trim while it was out.
One thing I decided to do is to use the shell of the upper speaker as a template to mount the Polk tweeter. This worked pretty well by combining the surface mount cup with the flush mount clip that Polk provides in the packaging. After using a Dremel to cut out the old speakers, all that was required was to bend the clip to allow the bolt to protrude through the center hole of the cup and use a shallow #8 nut to secure it in place.
I also took the time to rattle can the door panel trim while it was out.
#834
02-16-2012, 12:09 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Central Ky
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
NOTES/DISCLAIMER:
!!! THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS !!!
!!! THIS IS FOR THE HIFI SYSTEM, AND LABELS THE AMP CONNECTOR(S) IN THE REAR OF THE CAR !!!
!!! PLAY WITH THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SCREW UP YOUR CAR !!!
Last Update: 19 Jun 07 (Pin 10 amp connector).
What I ultimately intend to do is replace the stock amp and speakers, but use as much of the factory harness and locations as possible. I figure I can use the speaker level inputs that run to the amp, and either convert them to RCA or get an amp with speaker level inputs. Then, I'll put the crossovers in the rear quarter as well, and run the factory speaker wires from there.
I still need a little help, because the car uses both CAN and MOST (two new busses). There shouldn't be any real impact digging into the system at the amp, unless your car has navigation, bluetooth, etc... I have no idea at that point.
Here's oPossum's link to the connector pinout The pinout is important, because in some cases (like the rear woofers) the same color wire is used more than once.
If you don't want to cut the wires on the connector, you can pick up a tool at many PC shops to remove them from the connector... like THIS or THIS
Power Input
(Pin - Wire Color - Function)
5 - Red/Gray (This is a 20A circuit that should provide power to a modest aftermarket amp without needing to run a seperate lead)
10 - Power Antenna lead (to turn on your aftermarket amp. I'll check the voltage/operation when I can).
26 - Brown (Ground)
18 - Orange/Green (No idea, but it causes me concern as it's labeled "K_CAN_L")
19 - Green (No idea, but also causes me concern as it's labeled "K_CAN_H")
Audio Input (Speaker level input from headunit)
(Pin - WireColor - Polarity)
Front Left
38 - Black/Red (+)
30 - Black/Purple (-)
Front Right
9 - Yellow/Brown (+)
17 - Yellow/Black (-)
Rear Left
37 - Blue/Brown (+)
29 - Blue/Black (-)
Rear Right
8 - Brown/Orange (+)
16 - Yellow/Red (-)
Output (Speakers)
Front Left Woofer (6 1/2")
41 - Black/Red (+)
42 - Black/Purple (-)
Front Right Woofer (6 1/2")
39 - Yellow/Purple (+)
40 - Yellow/Gray (-)
Front Left Mid/Tweet*
33 - Blue/White (+)
34 - Blue/Brown (-)
*Need help here. The schematic is confusing, but I believe this lead goes to the 3 1/2" mid, with the tweeter slaved off this lead with a capacitor. DyeLooper noted the colors to his (HIFI) mid, and MotorMouth noted the tweeter has a cap. The colors for the tweeter wires should be Brown/Orange (+) and Blue/Red (-)
Front Right Mid/Tweet*
11 - Blue/Black (+)
12 - Blue/Brown (-)
*Need help here as well, as noted above. Colors for the tweet should be Brown/Orange (+) and Yellow/Black (-).
Rear Left Woofer (6x9)
4 - Red/White (+)
3 - Brown (-)
Rear Right Woofer (6x9)
23 - Red/White (+)
22 - Brown/White (-)
Rear Left Tweeter*
31 - Yellow/Black (+)
32 - Yellow/Brown (-)
*There are a couple of manufacturers of component 6x9's, but 5x7 or 6x8 components are more common. These leads aren't necessary if you use a coax or triax 6x9.
Rear Right Tweeter*
13 - Yellow (+)
21 - Brown (-)
*Same note as Rear Left Tweeter.
!!! THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS !!!
!!! THIS IS FOR THE HIFI SYSTEM, AND LABELS THE AMP CONNECTOR(S) IN THE REAR OF THE CAR !!!
!!! PLAY WITH THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SCREW UP YOUR CAR !!!
Last Update: 19 Jun 07 (Pin 10 amp connector).
What I ultimately intend to do is replace the stock amp and speakers, but use as much of the factory harness and locations as possible. I figure I can use the speaker level inputs that run to the amp, and either convert them to RCA or get an amp with speaker level inputs. Then, I'll put the crossovers in the rear quarter as well, and run the factory speaker wires from there.
I still need a little help, because the car uses both CAN and MOST (two new busses). There shouldn't be any real impact digging into the system at the amp, unless your car has navigation, bluetooth, etc... I have no idea at that point.
Here's oPossum's link to the connector pinout The pinout is important, because in some cases (like the rear woofers) the same color wire is used more than once.
If you don't want to cut the wires on the connector, you can pick up a tool at many PC shops to remove them from the connector... like THIS or THIS
Power Input
(Pin - Wire Color - Function)
5 - Red/Gray (This is a 20A circuit that should provide power to a modest aftermarket amp without needing to run a seperate lead)
10 - Power Antenna lead (to turn on your aftermarket amp. I'll check the voltage/operation when I can).
26 - Brown (Ground)
18 - Orange/Green (No idea, but it causes me concern as it's labeled "K_CAN_L")
19 - Green (No idea, but also causes me concern as it's labeled "K_CAN_H")
Audio Input (Speaker level input from headunit)
(Pin - WireColor - Polarity)
Front Left
38 - Black/Red (+)
30 - Black/Purple (-)
Front Right
9 - Yellow/Brown (+)
17 - Yellow/Black (-)
Rear Left
37 - Blue/Brown (+)
29 - Blue/Black (-)
Rear Right
8 - Brown/Orange (+)
16 - Yellow/Red (-)
Output (Speakers)
Front Left Woofer (6 1/2")
41 - Black/Red (+)
42 - Black/Purple (-)
Front Right Woofer (6 1/2")
39 - Yellow/Purple (+)
40 - Yellow/Gray (-)
Front Left Mid/Tweet*
33 - Blue/White (+)
34 - Blue/Brown (-)
*Need help here. The schematic is confusing, but I believe this lead goes to the 3 1/2" mid, with the tweeter slaved off this lead with a capacitor. DyeLooper noted the colors to his (HIFI) mid, and MotorMouth noted the tweeter has a cap. The colors for the tweeter wires should be Brown/Orange (+) and Blue/Red (-)
Front Right Mid/Tweet*
11 - Blue/Black (+)
12 - Blue/Brown (-)
*Need help here as well, as noted above. Colors for the tweet should be Brown/Orange (+) and Yellow/Black (-).
Rear Left Woofer (6x9)
4 - Red/White (+)
3 - Brown (-)
Rear Right Woofer (6x9)
23 - Red/White (+)
22 - Brown/White (-)
Rear Left Tweeter*
31 - Yellow/Black (+)
32 - Yellow/Brown (-)
*There are a couple of manufacturers of component 6x9's, but 5x7 or 6x8 components are more common. These leads aren't necessary if you use a coax or triax 6x9.
Rear Right Tweeter*
13 - Yellow (+)
21 - Brown (-)
*Same note as Rear Left Tweeter.
#835
02-27-2012, 10:35 AM
Neutral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello,
First post here. Great site. Just purchased an '09 R56 w/ HiFi system. I've read thru the threads extensively and it seems that the general concensus is that replacing the front speakers gives you the most bang for buck. One question - is there anything patently wrong with just replacing the front 6.5 / tweeters with a high quality set of speakers (Focal 165V30) and running those separately off of a 2-channel amp (Boston GTA802) while running the rest of the system off the OEM hifi amp? Then possibly add a IE sub later if deemed necesary?
First post here. Great site. Just purchased an '09 R56 w/ HiFi system. I've read thru the threads extensively and it seems that the general concensus is that replacing the front speakers gives you the most bang for buck. One question - is there anything patently wrong with just replacing the front 6.5 / tweeters with a high quality set of speakers (Focal 165V30) and running those separately off of a 2-channel amp (Boston GTA802) while running the rest of the system off the OEM hifi amp? Then possibly add a IE sub later if deemed necesary?
#836
04-24-2012, 04:20 AM
#837
04-24-2012, 04:25 AM
oh and other note I used the Kicker KS6.2 component set. The 6" mid fits in the factory opening with the only addition of a couple screws no cutting needed. Also they offer a coax mount for the tweeter so if like mine no factry tweet you get convienence of coax but sound quality of component. I added a single 10" polk db old school not new one with a 4 channel pioneer GM-D9500F. So far sounds good needs to be fine tuned.
#838
05-30-2012, 07:36 PM
More than a little confused
I've read through this thread and there a lot of comments and options. I have a 2010 R57S convertible with a base system and I want to do a simple, cheap upgrade of the speakers. I'm not an audiophile, I just want a little better sound I know that the channel switch will not work with a convertible, and I don't plan on messing with the rear speakers initially.
I can get the Polk DB351 for about $50 and the Polk DB651s for about $60.
1- Do I need the DB651s - slims or can I use the standard DB651 speakers?
2 - Both of these speakers are coaxials- that would give me 4 tweeters. Does that make sense?
3 - Could I fit DB400 in the upper door mounts and should I?
4 - Should I use a component system like Polk 6501 rather than DB651/351? I assume that would be more difficult than the coaxials but not too much.
I know that this information is buried in a number posts, but my head is spinning!!
Larry
I can get the Polk DB351 for about $50 and the Polk DB651s for about $60.
1- Do I need the DB651s - slims or can I use the standard DB651 speakers?
2 - Both of these speakers are coaxials- that would give me 4 tweeters. Does that make sense?
3 - Could I fit DB400 in the upper door mounts and should I?
4 - Should I use a component system like Polk 6501 rather than DB651/351? I assume that would be more difficult than the coaxials but not too much.
I know that this information is buried in a number posts, but my head is spinning!!
Larry
#839
05-30-2012, 09:32 PM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Larri,
I listened to the Polk DB series before purchasing the MM's. There is an enormous difference in sound quality and speaker efficiency too- if I recall. I also agree with you by doing any upgrades piece meal- it is smart as not everyone needs to be heard in the next county and you might be where you want to after installing 1 pair of new speakers and avoid overspending. Anyway, I love the MM 6501's, I replaced the front speakers and noticed a huge difference in sound quality. UNfortunately, the base system is simply inadequate and underpowered even for a 50 y/old like me and you may find the top down makes your unit even less forgiving than mine.
I upgraded in 3 stages and started by replacing the front speakers w/ the POLK MM 6501's, the rears with the MM 691's and finally added a small Alpine amp b/c some of the music I listen to was recorded on mediocre 60's equipment. What I have now is "stupid loud" and offers crisp high quality if I choose to listen to it like that, but I rarely do. However, at a moderate volume (1/5 volume) my car audio is simply awesome w/o a sub and considering I am forced to use the stock pre-amp I am quite content. My take is to spend the $$ on a set of high quality speakers that provide great sound and high efficiency aka sensitivity and find something other than the DB series even if they are not Polk's. At that point you will be able to isolate the meager power of the stock amp and decide whether or not you can tolerate it. BTW, I have the Polk MM 6501's in my S2000 and I also retained the factory head unit, but then again the stock radio in the Honda is 2 cuts above the trash that MINI gave us from the factory.
I listened to the Polk DB series before purchasing the MM's. There is an enormous difference in sound quality and speaker efficiency too- if I recall. I also agree with you by doing any upgrades piece meal- it is smart as not everyone needs to be heard in the next county and you might be where you want to after installing 1 pair of new speakers and avoid overspending. Anyway, I love the MM 6501's, I replaced the front speakers and noticed a huge difference in sound quality. UNfortunately, the base system is simply inadequate and underpowered even for a 50 y/old like me and you may find the top down makes your unit even less forgiving than mine.
I upgraded in 3 stages and started by replacing the front speakers w/ the POLK MM 6501's, the rears with the MM 691's and finally added a small Alpine amp b/c some of the music I listen to was recorded on mediocre 60's equipment. What I have now is "stupid loud" and offers crisp high quality if I choose to listen to it like that, but I rarely do. However, at a moderate volume (1/5 volume) my car audio is simply awesome w/o a sub and considering I am forced to use the stock pre-amp I am quite content. My take is to spend the $$ on a set of high quality speakers that provide great sound and high efficiency aka sensitivity and find something other than the DB series even if they are not Polk's. At that point you will be able to isolate the meager power of the stock amp and decide whether or not you can tolerate it. BTW, I have the Polk MM 6501's in my S2000 and I also retained the factory head unit, but then again the stock radio in the Honda is 2 cuts above the trash that MINI gave us from the factory.
#840
06-02-2012, 05:49 PM
Just installed the passenger's side speakers
I have a 2010 R57S convertible with the base stereo. I wanted a simple, cheap install. I got the Polk Audio DB651 (not S) and DB351. I was tempted by the DB6501 components with crossovers, but Fry's wouldn't price match, I was a little intimidated, and the guy at Fry's said the DB651/351 would sound as good as the DB6501. I was skeptical of the last item, but the first two (price/ease) convinced me. Fry's price-matched Amazon, and I got the DB 651/351 for $113 out the door.
Pulling off the outside door panel was easy, although the reference in the beginning of this thread to the thread detailing how to take all of the inside panels off kind of lead me to believe that I had pull all of the door panels off. After a little scratching of my head I, I realized that after getting the outside panel off, I could pull off the surround on the upper speaker without taking anything else off. There was no reason to pry off the lower speaker cover as I think some have suggested.
Everything else went smoothly. I managed to preserve the lower speaker plug and splice into it. I ran the wire through the rubber grommet as other have suggested, but I didn't cut the grommet. I just pushed it over the wire. The upper speaker plug I had to clip off and put spade terminals directly on the original wires. I was hoping to avoid that so everything would be reversible.
I stopped now because I'm tired and don't want the get frustrated (mirror (switch), mirror (switch) on the wall (door), am I smarter than you?)
I spent a little while playing with the balance between the old speakers (drivers side) and new speakers (passengers side). The new are definitely crisper and have more highs. Do they blow me away with a vast improvement? No. We'll see how it sounds with both sides in, and I gather that speakers break in over some hours.
How many hours does it take for speakers to break in and what changes in the sound quality?
The thread was very helpful and gave me confidence to do this simple upgrade.
Thanks,
Larry
Pulling off the outside door panel was easy, although the reference in the beginning of this thread to the thread detailing how to take all of the inside panels off kind of lead me to believe that I had pull all of the door panels off. After a little scratching of my head I, I realized that after getting the outside panel off, I could pull off the surround on the upper speaker without taking anything else off. There was no reason to pry off the lower speaker cover as I think some have suggested.
Everything else went smoothly. I managed to preserve the lower speaker plug and splice into it. I ran the wire through the rubber grommet as other have suggested, but I didn't cut the grommet. I just pushed it over the wire. The upper speaker plug I had to clip off and put spade terminals directly on the original wires. I was hoping to avoid that so everything would be reversible.
I stopped now because I'm tired and don't want the get frustrated (mirror (switch), mirror (switch) on the wall (door), am I smarter than you?)
I spent a little while playing with the balance between the old speakers (drivers side) and new speakers (passengers side). The new are definitely crisper and have more highs. Do they blow me away with a vast improvement? No. We'll see how it sounds with both sides in, and I gather that speakers break in over some hours.
How many hours does it take for speakers to break in and what changes in the sound quality?
The thread was very helpful and gave me confidence to do this simple upgrade.
Thanks,
Larry
Last edited by LarriB; 06-02-2012 at 05:54 PM. Reason: Clarity
#841
06-03-2012, 09:50 AM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a 2010 R57S convertible with the base stereo. I wanted a simple, cheap install. I got the Polk Audio DB651 (not S) and DB351. I was tempted by the DB6501 components with crossovers, but Fry's wouldn't price match, I was a little intimidated, and the guy at Fry's said the DB651/351 would sound as good as the DB6501. I was skeptical of the last item, but the first two (price/ease) convinced me. Fry's price-matched Amazon, and I got the DB 651/351 for $113 out the door.
Pulling off the outside door panel was easy, although the reference in the beginning of this thread to the thread detailing how to take all of the inside panels off kind of lead me to believe that I had pull all of the door panels off. After a little scratching of my head I, I realized that after getting the outside panel off, I could pull off the surround on the upper speaker without taking anything else off. There was no reason to pry off the lower speaker cover as I think some have suggested.
Everything else went smoothly. I managed to preserve the lower speaker plug and splice into it. I ran the wire through the rubber grommet as other have suggested, but I didn't cut the grommet. I just pushed it over the wire. The upper speaker plug I had to clip off and put spade terminals directly on the original wires. I was hoping to avoid that so everything would be reversible.
I stopped now because I'm tired and don't want the get frustrated (mirror (switch), mirror (switch) on the wall (door), am I smarter than you?)
I spent a little while playing with the balance between the old speakers (drivers side) and new speakers (passengers side). The new are definitely crisper and have more highs. Do they blow me away with a vast improvement? No. We'll see how it sounds with both sides in, and I gather that speakers break in over some hours.
How many hours does it take for speakers to break in and what changes in the sound quality?
The thread was very helpful and gave me confidence to do this simple upgrade.
Thanks,
Larry
Pulling off the outside door panel was easy, although the reference in the beginning of this thread to the thread detailing how to take all of the inside panels off kind of lead me to believe that I had pull all of the door panels off. After a little scratching of my head I, I realized that after getting the outside panel off, I could pull off the surround on the upper speaker without taking anything else off. There was no reason to pry off the lower speaker cover as I think some have suggested.
Everything else went smoothly. I managed to preserve the lower speaker plug and splice into it. I ran the wire through the rubber grommet as other have suggested, but I didn't cut the grommet. I just pushed it over the wire. The upper speaker plug I had to clip off and put spade terminals directly on the original wires. I was hoping to avoid that so everything would be reversible.
I stopped now because I'm tired and don't want the get frustrated (mirror (switch), mirror (switch) on the wall (door), am I smarter than you?)
I spent a little while playing with the balance between the old speakers (drivers side) and new speakers (passengers side). The new are definitely crisper and have more highs. Do they blow me away with a vast improvement? No. We'll see how it sounds with both sides in, and I gather that speakers break in over some hours.
How many hours does it take for speakers to break in and what changes in the sound quality?
The thread was very helpful and gave me confidence to do this simple upgrade.
Thanks,
Larry
The speakers do not have a break-in period per say, but never operate them, or an speakers at a high volume when you first turn them on. I do not know how much of a difference you will notice with the DB 651 speakers. The stock speakers are horrible and I never liked the DB speakers either I am also a bit incredulous of the stats they hang on those speakers. If I recall the amp in stock head unit does not have a full range of reproduction - I believe the top end cuts off around 14 MHZ which leave 6 MHZ of sound out of reproduction. My arm is broken and someone else will have to reconfirm. typing hurts too much. good luck.
#842
06-03-2012, 08:42 PM
I installed the driver's side speakers today. The setup's pretty good, if a little high, so I turned down the treble. All in all, I'm happy with the improvement for the cost. I'm a little sorry I didn't get the 6501 components, but I was intimidated with project, and wanted to make it simple. pjdaustin - Thanks for your input -it's appreciated.
Larry
Larry
#843
06-14-2012, 01:10 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Snohomish WA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After two days of reading these threads, there a few details that remain vague to me. Are the MM6501's that are mentioned single speakers for the 6" hole, or is there another package that also includes a tweeter? If no tweeter, what's being done with the stock speaker in the 4" hole?
Are the issues around installing an amp and BMW electronics centered around ID'ing the wires in the connector plug and getting the right wires to the right places? What idiosyncrasies risk melt down? That sounds scary. I'm fine dealing with physical installation difficulties, but electric problems often baffle me.
Are the issues around installing an amp and BMW electronics centered around ID'ing the wires in the connector plug and getting the right wires to the right places? What idiosyncrasies risk melt down? That sounds scary. I'm fine dealing with physical installation difficulties, but electric problems often baffle me.
#844
06-14-2012, 03:33 PM
#845
06-14-2012, 04:04 PM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I echo Larri B's reply and suggest the boot for the amp location if you choose to install one. As for installing an amp, if you don't know what a canbus wire is or think you may mistake it for another wire, "Do NOT" attempt an amp installation. If you cut the canbus wire you are F*&^%#@ ! and it will cost you a small fortune to get repaired by Mini.
#846
06-14-2012, 04:38 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Snohomish WA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for the replies.
I think I'm seeing part of my confusion. There appears to be several renditions of MM6501's out there. Some are listed as 6.5", some 6.75" (why would there be any variation if the specs are being used?), some with the added AA6514-A that look to be only the woofer/mid without the tweeters (which prompted my original question), and a "UM" version that apparently has no crossovers. Weird. Caveat emptor. I'm still not quite sure what I'm looking at.
I have no clue what a canbus wire is. Sounds like some kind of herb. I'll do a search on that one and see what turns up.
I think I'm seeing part of my confusion. There appears to be several renditions of MM6501's out there. Some are listed as 6.5", some 6.75" (why would there be any variation if the specs are being used?), some with the added AA6514-A that look to be only the woofer/mid without the tweeters (which prompted my original question), and a "UM" version that apparently has no crossovers. Weird. Caveat emptor. I'm still not quite sure what I'm looking at.
I have no clue what a canbus wire is. Sounds like some kind of herb. I'll do a search on that one and see what turns up.
#847
06-14-2012, 08:39 PM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Austin
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for the replies.
I think I'm seeing part of my confusion. There appears to be several renditions of MM6501's out there. Some are listed as 6.5", some 6.75" (why would there be any variation if the specs are being used?), some with the added AA6514-A that look to be only the woofer/mid without the tweeters (which prompted my original question), and a "UM" version that apparently has no crossovers. Weird. Caveat emptor. I'm still not quite sure what I'm looking at.
I have no clue what a canbus wire is. Sounds like some kind of herb. I'll do a search on that one and see what turns up.
I think I'm seeing part of my confusion. There appears to be several renditions of MM6501's out there. Some are listed as 6.5", some 6.75" (why would there be any variation if the specs are being used?), some with the added AA6514-A that look to be only the woofer/mid without the tweeters (which prompted my original question), and a "UM" version that apparently has no crossovers. Weird. Caveat emptor. I'm still not quite sure what I'm looking at.
I have no clue what a canbus wire is. Sounds like some kind of herb. I'll do a search on that one and see what turns up.
Get the MM6501's that are 6 1/2" component speakers. If you cut or break the canbus wire you will never forget it. I have read on a similiar thread it is a x,xxx repair and your car is totally useless unless and until your Canbus is functioning. Not sure if true, but I've had enough people tell me installation was money very well spent when dealing with BMW's and Mini's I have an electronics degree and decided to leave the installation to an expert because of the potential harm I could do by accident. Consider the same before trying to save $200 bucks. JUst saying..
#848
06-18-2012, 06:36 AM
1st Gear
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are on a budget the Polk db6501 is far and away the best choice. I have used them in multiple installations in different vehicles and am always amazed at the improvement. For the money, they go surprisingly low and stay tight. The way to install them is replace the base driver and have a professional recess the tweeters up high in the door. They are pretty subtle and blend in nicely. Disconnect the factory mids and forget about them. Personally, when I get around to installing my own in a coupe, I'm probably going to use an Alpine processor to clean up the thoroughly messed up signal coming from the factory head unit (I speak from experience - the wife has a 2010 convertible). I'll start with a 6 speaker factory system and install the MM6501 speakers up front with the coax version in the back. Nice as the DBs sound for the money, the MM series is just that much better. Be advised that Polks are kind of a contradiction: they are efficient but like power. Get a fifty watt per channel amp and be amazed at how they wake up.
Still haven't decided what I'm doing about a sub. I'll probably mount a Polk 10" in the trunk positioned to fire through the passthrough. Maybe go as small as an 8". I prefer tight, accurate bass and will sacriifice a little depth to get it. Come to think of it, a box with an 8" sub would fit quite nicely in the pass through opening between the rear speakers.
Still haven't decided what I'm doing about a sub. I'll probably mount a Polk 10" in the trunk positioned to fire through the passthrough. Maybe go as small as an 8". I prefer tight, accurate bass and will sacriifice a little depth to get it. Come to think of it, a box with an 8" sub would fit quite nicely in the pass through opening between the rear speakers.
#849
07-03-2012, 09:00 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It looks like I'll be getting a Coupe off the lot. It is most likely going to have the HK system. Does anyone know where they put the factory amp in the Coupe?
I've checked that British site and they don't seem to have harnesses to plug in between the amp and radio at the amp. Has anyone ever seen the connectors needed for this, or better yet a complete harness? I'd hate to have to cut the wiring.
I've checked that British site and they don't seem to have harnesses to plug in between the amp and radio at the amp. Has anyone ever seen the connectors needed for this, or better yet a complete harness? I'd hate to have to cut the wiring.
#850
08-16-2012, 11:33 AM
This is my first post here. I've had my 07 MCS with the boost non Hifi system for 3 weeks now and love it.. minus the stereo. My wrangler sounds better.
I know a bit about stereos but my knowledge dates back to the 2000-01
i've read through this entire thread in the last 2 days.
I'd like to thank everyone that has contributed and kept on topic.
What i'm planning on is a component system up from. I have a diamond 6 inch that I had installed in a truck a few years ago. I'm going to unplug the 4 inch as I see no need for this. This will be powered by a crossfire 50.4 running only the 2 channels so it will be 100w RMS per.
For bass im going to try something different than I have ever done. Kicker sells a 6.5 inch sub that runs 150w RMS. I have a crossfire 600d that will run 300w RMS at 2 ohms. I'm going to mount those in the rear speaker locations. The main reason for this is I use the rear area for camping/ski gear and dont want a sub in the floor. if this turns out to sound awful i'll go the traditional route. fortunately the subs are not expensive so it wont be a huge cost.
The question(s) i am a little foggy on are where to pull the high level line inputs from. obviously the one going to the components will need the full range and the one for the subs wont. from what i'm reading it looks like the front speaker leads would work best for the subs and the rear for the compnents. I found a converted to RCA on Crutchfield that also has a remote for the sub amp.. i'm leaning towards that right now.
Should I pull the signal from the input or output side of the factory amp?
I plan on running new wires in order to preserve the factory setup. I've done this a couple times and it's a pain but returning it to stock was a breeze.
any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
I know a bit about stereos but my knowledge dates back to the 2000-01
i've read through this entire thread in the last 2 days.
I'd like to thank everyone that has contributed and kept on topic.
What i'm planning on is a component system up from. I have a diamond 6 inch that I had installed in a truck a few years ago. I'm going to unplug the 4 inch as I see no need for this. This will be powered by a crossfire 50.4 running only the 2 channels so it will be 100w RMS per.
For bass im going to try something different than I have ever done. Kicker sells a 6.5 inch sub that runs 150w RMS. I have a crossfire 600d that will run 300w RMS at 2 ohms. I'm going to mount those in the rear speaker locations. The main reason for this is I use the rear area for camping/ski gear and dont want a sub in the floor. if this turns out to sound awful i'll go the traditional route. fortunately the subs are not expensive so it wont be a huge cost.
The question(s) i am a little foggy on are where to pull the high level line inputs from. obviously the one going to the components will need the full range and the one for the subs wont. from what i'm reading it looks like the front speaker leads would work best for the subs and the rear for the compnents. I found a converted to RCA on Crutchfield that also has a remote for the sub amp.. i'm leaning towards that right now.
Should I pull the signal from the input or output side of the factory amp?
I plan on running new wires in order to preserve the factory setup. I've done this a couple times and it's a pain but returning it to stock was a breeze.
any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,