R50/53 MINI USA Delivers!
#26
Tough crowd.
As if the engineering staff who came up with the Aux kit were really diverted from the other issues that need to be worked on....
This Aux thing shouldn't and doesn't really have anything to do any other problems that might be out there.
Also...
My understanding of the Aux support was that the car was Aux "ready". Meaning that at some future time an Aux capability "could" be added.
And now it looks like it can be.
I'm happy and I don't mind paying a few bucks for it. Boy, MINI addresses an issue in a positive way and I guess you can never satisfy everyone.
And if perchance that the 2004s have this $39 part standard...then good. I'm not going to get upset about it. Seriously now...was it ever an option that I would have waited for the 2004 so that I'd get that part included?!
-Jim
_________________
2003 MCS All Black
1992 NSX Red/Blk 5 spd #0330
1974 Vette 454 4 spd Wht/Blk
1976 Honda Accord 5 spd, 3 door Blue/Blue
As if the engineering staff who came up with the Aux kit were really diverted from the other issues that need to be worked on....
This Aux thing shouldn't and doesn't really have anything to do any other problems that might be out there.
Also...
My understanding of the Aux support was that the car was Aux "ready". Meaning that at some future time an Aux capability "could" be added.
And now it looks like it can be.
I'm happy and I don't mind paying a few bucks for it. Boy, MINI addresses an issue in a positive way and I guess you can never satisfy everyone.
And if perchance that the 2004s have this $39 part standard...then good. I'm not going to get upset about it. Seriously now...was it ever an option that I would have waited for the 2004 so that I'd get that part included?!
-Jim
_________________
2003 MCS All Black
1992 NSX Red/Blk 5 spd #0330
1974 Vette 454 4 spd Wht/Blk
1976 Honda Accord 5 spd, 3 door Blue/Blue
#27
#28
I feel that MINIUSA should "retrofit" all 2003's with aux part as they said on their stickers it MP3 "ready" .. I was promisedfor the 2003 model year, Now we have to pay a extra $100 for something that was promised on all 2003 model cars. Same goes with putting items on later built cars..ie the medal gas/brake/clutch pedals on the "S" My dealer quoted over $300 to retro fit these pedals!! Also the NAV unit was suppost to be DVD based on 2003 models..Should upgrade forv FREE!!!..especially since it has taken them 9 months to comeout with it,, PS..thanks for coming out with it FINALLY!!..now do the "right" thing and make it free!!!
#30
I don't mind paying for the part it is the labour that is gettine to me. I would do it myself but I don't want to void my warranty. The HU also came satelite ready and as I stated before I didn't mind paying but for $700 I could have purchased aftermarket stuff and had it installed. I just think that dealerships charge over the top for labour plus having to take it to the dealership that is 40 mins away for something as trivial as an AUX jack. With as much commotion as this Aux jack has caused (i.e. countless threads and letters to MINI USA) I would have thought that they would really come through for us.
I know no one has it but what is the actual labour involved with this thing any way? There is a hole in the GB already, do they have to remove the HU to plug it in?
I know no one has it but what is the actual labour involved with this thing any way? There is a hole in the GB already, do they have to remove the HU to plug it in?
#31
It should take about 1/2 hour to install. So I'm guessing about $50 labor. They do have to remove back of the head unit to install the cable. I am not sure why anyone would want this to terminate into the glove box if you cannot control your aux. device from the head unit. It seems like it would be very awkward and dangerous to try and manually control anything sitting in the glove box while driving.
I am going to install myself and terminate somewhere under the center console area. I also do not understand why such a simple plugging in of a factory part would automatically void the stereo warranty. Do they have to prove that the malfunction was caused by an improper home installation?
I am going to install myself and terminate somewhere under the center console area. I also do not understand why such a simple plugging in of a factory part would automatically void the stereo warranty. Do they have to prove that the malfunction was caused by an improper home installation?
#32
>>It should take about 1/2 hour to install. So I'm guessing about $50 labor. They do have to remove back of the head unit to install the cable. I am not sure why anyone would want this to terminate into the glove box if you cannot control your aux. device from the head unit. It seems like it would be very awkward and dangerous to try and manually control anything sitting in the glove box while driving.
>> I am going to install myself and terminate somewhere under the center console area. I also do not understand why such a simple plugging in of a factory part would automatically void the stereo warranty. Do they have to prove that the malfunction was caused by an improper home installation?
I agree. Having the wiring go into the glove box seems stupid. I want it to come into the space below/between the downtubes so I can put my iPod in the cupholder or under the Ebrake and control it while I'm driving. If it sits in the glovebox, it's as good as useless to me; don't want to drive with the GB open, and can't control it with the GB either open or closed since it's too far away from me.
I looked in my GB for the 'existing' hole that someone mentioned in an earlier post, and all I saw was a hole in the left side for access to a screw head. I also saw a black plastic **** of some sort at the back and to the left, which may or may not cover this supposed 'hole' for the aux wiring. I vaguely recall that this **** controls something else, like maybe the 'refrigeration' aspect of the GB. I'll have to look it up in the manual, I guess.
>> I am going to install myself and terminate somewhere under the center console area. I also do not understand why such a simple plugging in of a factory part would automatically void the stereo warranty. Do they have to prove that the malfunction was caused by an improper home installation?
I agree. Having the wiring go into the glove box seems stupid. I want it to come into the space below/between the downtubes so I can put my iPod in the cupholder or under the Ebrake and control it while I'm driving. If it sits in the glovebox, it's as good as useless to me; don't want to drive with the GB open, and can't control it with the GB either open or closed since it's too far away from me.
I looked in my GB for the 'existing' hole that someone mentioned in an earlier post, and all I saw was a hole in the left side for access to a screw head. I also saw a black plastic **** of some sort at the back and to the left, which may or may not cover this supposed 'hole' for the aux wiring. I vaguely recall that this **** controls something else, like maybe the 'refrigeration' aspect of the GB. I'll have to look it up in the manual, I guess.
#33
>>>>It should take about 1/2 hour to install. So I'm guessing about $50 labor. They do have to remove back of the head unit to install the cable. I am not sure why anyone would want this to terminate into the glove box if you cannot control your aux. device from the head unit. It seems like it would be very awkward and dangerous to try and manually control anything sitting in the glove box while driving.
>>>> I am going to install myself and terminate somewhere under the center console area. I also do not understand why such a simple plugging in of a factory part would automatically void the stereo warranty. Do they have to prove that the malfunction was caused by an improper home installation?
>>
>>
>>I agree. Having the wiring go into the glove box seems stupid. I want it to come into the space below/between the downtubes so I can put my iPod in the cupholder or under the Ebrake and control it while I'm driving. If it sits in the glovebox, it's as good as useless to me; don't want to drive with the GB open, and can't control it with the GB either open or closed since it's too far away from me.
>>
>>I looked in my GB for the 'existing' hole that someone mentioned in an earlier post, and all I saw was a hole in the left side for access to a screw head. I also saw a black plastic **** of some sort at the back and to the left, which may or may not cover this supposed 'hole' for the aux wiring. I vaguely recall that this **** controls something else, like maybe the 'refrigeration' aspect of the GB. I'll have to look it up in the manual, I guess.
>>
Again, you dont have to put your ipod in the glovebox. You supply the wire yourself that connects your MP3 player to the port..so you can get a skinny wire and just close the glovebox on it then atatch it to the ipod in the cupholder. Also the valve in the glovebox is for the climate control to keep this cold in your glovebox.
>>>> I am going to install myself and terminate somewhere under the center console area. I also do not understand why such a simple plugging in of a factory part would automatically void the stereo warranty. Do they have to prove that the malfunction was caused by an improper home installation?
>>
>>
>>I agree. Having the wiring go into the glove box seems stupid. I want it to come into the space below/between the downtubes so I can put my iPod in the cupholder or under the Ebrake and control it while I'm driving. If it sits in the glovebox, it's as good as useless to me; don't want to drive with the GB open, and can't control it with the GB either open or closed since it's too far away from me.
>>
>>I looked in my GB for the 'existing' hole that someone mentioned in an earlier post, and all I saw was a hole in the left side for access to a screw head. I also saw a black plastic **** of some sort at the back and to the left, which may or may not cover this supposed 'hole' for the aux wiring. I vaguely recall that this **** controls something else, like maybe the 'refrigeration' aspect of the GB. I'll have to look it up in the manual, I guess.
>>
Again, you dont have to put your ipod in the glovebox. You supply the wire yourself that connects your MP3 player to the port..so you can get a skinny wire and just close the glovebox on it then atatch it to the ipod in the cupholder. Also the valve in the glovebox is for the climate control to keep this cold in your glovebox.
#34
>>Again, you dont have to put your ipod in the glovebox. You supply the wire yourself that connects your MP3 player to the port..so you can get a skinny wire and just close the glovebox on it then atatch it to the ipod in the cupholder. Also the valve in the glovebox is for the climate control to keep this cold in your glovebox.
I think that the little rectangular plastic piece just the left of the a/c control valve is where the Aux input terminates. I would not want any wires getting crimped by my closed glovebox also I already have a nice 6 inch miniplug-to-miniplug connection that I plan on using. It will not extend all that way. Bringing it to the middle console area just seems "cleaner" to me.
#35
I would think that they would come up with a cleaner way to do this having wires running out of the glovebox to anywhere in the car seems messy. Maybe it should pop out of the empty toggle switch we have or, like most HU with AUX imput, have the jack on the front-saves labour and eases customer relations.
#36
Guys,
In regards to the glovebox, wire routing issue...
The glovebox is EASILY removed. Five screws and you're done. The entire box slips out. Then, you can drill a hole in the back and route the wires anywhere you please under the dash to anywhere you please.
Just one thing, make sure you take a look under the dash/glovebox before you remove the screws. You need to take note of where the little plastic ribbed pipe is connected. That's the cool air supply to the glovebox. It's just a tension fit -- no hose clamps or connectors. It'll fall away when you remove the glovebox, so it helps if you know where it came from. Be careful not to scratch your downtubes when you remove it.
Good luck,
JS
In regards to the glovebox, wire routing issue...
The glovebox is EASILY removed. Five screws and you're done. The entire box slips out. Then, you can drill a hole in the back and route the wires anywhere you please under the dash to anywhere you please.
Just one thing, make sure you take a look under the dash/glovebox before you remove the screws. You need to take note of where the little plastic ribbed pipe is connected. That's the cool air supply to the glovebox. It's just a tension fit -- no hose clamps or connectors. It'll fall away when you remove the glovebox, so it helps if you know where it came from. Be careful not to scratch your downtubes when you remove it.
Good luck,
JS
#37
#38
Maybe you all should drive your cars back to the dealership and tell them you don't want them. Sounds like you ask for something and then you get upset because it doesn't come the way you wanted it to. Engineers have better things to do than to please the few and not think of the many.
Personally, I'm thrilled the output is in the glovebox. Its out of the way, I can plug a jack into it or not and its not some obscene addon that gets stuck somewhere out in the open.
As for it being retrofitted for free, can anyone tell any of us the last time they had something installed into an automobile that was free? Recalls, safety concerns, warranty work, that stuff is all free. But to complain about a $35 part that makes your car more enjoyable? Quit whining, you could afford a $25K car, I think $35 won't kill you.
Personally, I'm thrilled the output is in the glovebox. Its out of the way, I can plug a jack into it or not and its not some obscene addon that gets stuck somewhere out in the open.
As for it being retrofitted for free, can anyone tell any of us the last time they had something installed into an automobile that was free? Recalls, safety concerns, warranty work, that stuff is all free. But to complain about a $35 part that makes your car more enjoyable? Quit whining, you could afford a $25K car, I think $35 won't kill you.
#39
#40
>>I would think that they would come up with a cleaner way to do this having wires running out of the glovebox to anywhere in the car seems messy. Maybe it should pop out of the empty toggle switch we have or, like most HU with AUX imput, have the jack on the front-saves labour and eases customer relations.
I think we need to think "outside the glove box" on this one. I would suggest that a jack installed in a hot pocket would be the way to go.
Andy
I think we need to think "outside the glove box" on this one. I would suggest that a jack installed in a hot pocket would be the way to go.
Andy
#41
#42
>>I'm with MINI USA. Once again, you asked, and we're delivering. The new auxiliary audio input accessory kit is now available at your dealer. Be the first on your block. Questions? Call us at (866) ASK MINI.
>>
That's great. How about the stumble issue on S? Lots of us keep asking MINI for a 'fix.' The stumble issue has presented me with several dangerous traffic situations, as I couldn't properly accelerate into traffic. Please advise.
>>
That's great. How about the stumble issue on S? Lots of us keep asking MINI for a 'fix.' The stumble issue has presented me with several dangerous traffic situations, as I couldn't properly accelerate into traffic. Please advise.
#44
>>>> You could afford a $25K car, I think $35 won't kill you.
>>
>>Who here could afford a $25K car? I know I can't.
As I began to feel nervous about this stumble issue, I browsed around to some other makers websites and the Mini is very affordable in its class. A loaded MCS is $26k. Even with the Works package, you're looking around $30k from the factory. GTI's are the same price. The 350Z which is a very different car is in the low 30s equipped. The WRX-Sti is in the mid - 30s and not easily found. The Mitsu Evo is in the mid 30s and similarly scarce. The RX-8 is going to be in the mid to high 30s according to a Mazda dealer in Arlington, VA. Dodge Neons are cheaper but they're Neons. There's a lot of great cars in the $30-35K which is an altogether different price range for me. The Mini is a car that ranges from $16k-30k. Certainly dealers can ratchet that up into mids 30s but there are dealers who will find $5-7k in crap to put on any car.
>>
>>Who here could afford a $25K car? I know I can't.
As I began to feel nervous about this stumble issue, I browsed around to some other makers websites and the Mini is very affordable in its class. A loaded MCS is $26k. Even with the Works package, you're looking around $30k from the factory. GTI's are the same price. The 350Z which is a very different car is in the low 30s equipped. The WRX-Sti is in the mid - 30s and not easily found. The Mitsu Evo is in the mid 30s and similarly scarce. The RX-8 is going to be in the mid to high 30s according to a Mazda dealer in Arlington, VA. Dodge Neons are cheaper but they're Neons. There's a lot of great cars in the $30-35K which is an altogether different price range for me. The Mini is a car that ranges from $16k-30k. Certainly dealers can ratchet that up into mids 30s but there are dealers who will find $5-7k in crap to put on any car.
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