R50/53 I need new brake pads
#1
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#9
a very old school group of mechanics I talk to told me that if you need new pads on the mini, there's no point in not changing the rotors as well.
One of them showed me how the rotors wear. Not that pretty folks. Most are into minor changes on this forum but really, you need new rotors too.
One of them showed me how the rotors wear. Not that pretty folks. Most are into minor changes on this forum but really, you need new rotors too.
#12
#13
Just a T50 torx to take out the torx bolt that holds the rotor to the hub. If you car's kept outside these and or the rotor can be a bit stuck in place. Helps to have a breaker bar or torque wrench (long handle) to get loose. I can't recall if I had to take the caliper bolts out to swing it clear or not. Very simple job in any case.
Edit: To clarify, you want a T50 torx that'll go on your ratchet, breaker bar, or torque wrench and in the correct size drive as your ratchet / breaker bar, I.E. 3/8th drive or 1/2 inch drive. If you're unsure check your local MINI club. I've offered to guide a few people in my club and let them use my garage and tools. I'm sure you can find a similar offer locally.
Edit: To clarify, you want a T50 torx that'll go on your ratchet, breaker bar, or torque wrench and in the correct size drive as your ratchet / breaker bar, I.E. 3/8th drive or 1/2 inch drive. If you're unsure check your local MINI club. I've offered to guide a few people in my club and let them use my garage and tools. I'm sure you can find a similar offer locally.
#17
#18
Four hints
1) Pick up some PB Blaster or WD-40 and soak that TORX and around where the rotor meets the hub .... it helps things come apart
2) when you go to work on the rotor TORX bolt, apply firm pressure to keep that TORX socket firmly seated...it is real easy for it to ride out and then round off things. Some have good luck using an impact for this but I found an 18" breaker bar sufficient. To keep the assembly from rotating I put two wheel lugs back in loosely and use a piece of scrap re-bar to wedge the wheel from turning by threading the rebar thru the lugs and letting it hit the floor....
3) You need to loosen the caliber mount on the fronts in my experience, to get the rotor free, but the smaller rotors in the rear can be removed with just the caliber out of the way as needed for the pad change. Since those rear mounting bolts are a bit harder to get to, knowing this saves some time and skinned knuckes.
4) A bit of anti-seize on the back of the rotor where it meets the hub and on that TORX makes this easier yet, next time.
Rotors can be done in as little as an extra 5 minutes per wheel on top of a pad change....IF the rotor doesn't fight you comin off.
2) when you go to work on the rotor TORX bolt, apply firm pressure to keep that TORX socket firmly seated...it is real easy for it to ride out and then round off things. Some have good luck using an impact for this but I found an 18" breaker bar sufficient. To keep the assembly from rotating I put two wheel lugs back in loosely and use a piece of scrap re-bar to wedge the wheel from turning by threading the rebar thru the lugs and letting it hit the floor....
3) You need to loosen the caliber mount on the fronts in my experience, to get the rotor free, but the smaller rotors in the rear can be removed with just the caliber out of the way as needed for the pad change. Since those rear mounting bolts are a bit harder to get to, knowing this saves some time and skinned knuckes.
4) A bit of anti-seize on the back of the rotor where it meets the hub and on that TORX makes this easier yet, next time.
Rotors can be done in as little as an extra 5 minutes per wheel on top of a pad change....IF the rotor doesn't fight you comin off.
#19
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Washington. No, the other one.
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1) Pick up some PB Blaster or WD-40 and soak that TORX and around where the rotor meets the hub .... it helps things come apart
2) when you go to work on the rotor TORX bolt, apply firm pressure to keep that TORX socket firmly seated...it is real easy for it to ride out and then round off things. Some have good luck using an impact for this but I found an 18" breaker bar sufficient. To keep the assembly from rotating I put two wheel lugs back in loosely and use a piece of scrap re-bar to wedge the wheel from turning by threading the rebar thru the lugs and letting it hit the floor....
3) You need to loosen the caliber mount on the fronts in my experience, to get the rotor free, but the smaller rotors in the rear can be removed with just the caliber out of the way as needed for the pad change. Since those rear mounting bolts are a bit harder to get to, knowing this saves some time and skinned knuckes.
4) A bit of anti-seize on the back of the rotor where it meets the hub and on that TORX makes this easier yet, next time.
Rotors can be done in as little as an extra 5 minutes per wheel on top of a pad change....IF the rotor doesn't fight you comin off.
2) when you go to work on the rotor TORX bolt, apply firm pressure to keep that TORX socket firmly seated...it is real easy for it to ride out and then round off things. Some have good luck using an impact for this but I found an 18" breaker bar sufficient. To keep the assembly from rotating I put two wheel lugs back in loosely and use a piece of scrap re-bar to wedge the wheel from turning by threading the rebar thru the lugs and letting it hit the floor....
3) You need to loosen the caliber mount on the fronts in my experience, to get the rotor free, but the smaller rotors in the rear can be removed with just the caliber out of the way as needed for the pad change. Since those rear mounting bolts are a bit harder to get to, knowing this saves some time and skinned knuckes.
4) A bit of anti-seize on the back of the rotor where it meets the hub and on that TORX makes this easier yet, next time.
Rotors can be done in as little as an extra 5 minutes per wheel on top of a pad change....IF the rotor doesn't fight you comin off.
In SoCal, Autozone, Autoworks, Checker, Kragen -the big-box shops.
#22
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